Gadget freaks, model railroaders, roboticists or cat-hosts will love the versatility of the Sharp IS471 infrared proximity detector. It is the size of a transistor, operates over the 4-16 volt range, and can detect objects about 4-9 inches away by reflected IR pulses.
The basic implementation requires only the IS471, an IR LED and a 9 volt battery and can be built by most any tinkerer in less than 10 minutes.
The basic implementation requires only the IS471, an IR LED and a 9 volt battery and can be built by most any tinkerer in less than 10 minutes.
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Gather the parts
The parts you'll need are:
1) the Sharp IS471 (available for $2 at: http://www.junun.org/MarkIII/Info.jsp?item=46 or $3 from www.digikey.com, and others)
2) a 940nm IR emitter (such as the Fairchild QED-234, available from www.mouser.com for about 50 cents, and other sources)
3) Something to mount the above two items on. You've got a lot of options here. There are several excellent Instructables on making your own PCBs. If you want to try it out before doing the etching thing you can use a pluggable breadboard (not shown) or go with a small piece of perf-board (pads on .100" centers, shown at bottom left).
4) 9 volt batter and battery clip
5) Soldering iron & solder, diagonal cutters (if not going the breadboard route).
If you'd rather not etch, but still want something snazzy you might drop me a line about the very small custom perf-boards I had made at www.pad2pad.com (shown at bottom right), priced at $2 each for the bare boards, postage included).
1) the Sharp IS471 (available for $2 at: http://www.junun.org/MarkIII/Info.jsp?item=46 or $3 from www.digikey.com, and others)
2) a 940nm IR emitter (such as the Fairchild QED-234, available from www.mouser.com for about 50 cents, and other sources)
3) Something to mount the above two items on. You've got a lot of options here. There are several excellent Instructables on making your own PCBs. If you want to try it out before doing the etching thing you can use a pluggable breadboard (not shown) or go with a small piece of perf-board (pads on .100" centers, shown at bottom left).
4) 9 volt batter and battery clip
5) Soldering iron & solder, diagonal cutters (if not going the breadboard route).
If you'd rather not etch, but still want something snazzy you might drop me a line about the very small custom perf-boards I had made at www.pad2pad.com (shown at bottom right), priced at $2 each for the bare boards, postage included).
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
Thanks for the help.
http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/ronj/tg1s.html
The venerable 4013 or a pair of NAND gates can do this nicely.
Raw output is good for sinking 50mA.
Otherwise add a transistor buffer or a driver chip to up the current capacity.
It's expensive, but great if you don't just want a simple OC output!
coz it's not clear from the instructions that i does...
and also is IS741 available in india???
Not sure about availability in India, check local Sharp distributors or order via Junon over the interwebs.
The Sharp part is made to handle this matter. It works just fine, trust me (as Bernie Madoff used to say).
I think 4.5VDC will be at the lower limit, though, so no 3.3VDC.
Far too many years from making PCBs and little widget circuitry.
At 80 yrs. old, am again starting a new company and the IR LED and Sharp IS471 may solve a problem--- better, create an opportunity.
I'm in Folsom, CA Home 916 989-3005
Office in Fair Oaks, CA
Would like to find some people who are into making PCBs and Proximity sensors. I need some help because my electronic savvy is too far lost in deep core.
And, possible opportunity for anyone looking to join an emerging company.
Carl Rea Jordan reajrdn@yahoo.com www.optx-ltd.com (emerging)
I have several other start-up and need some entrepreneur-type minds.
I want to setup an IR LED on one side of the cat food container and the detector on the other side, and have it light up a separate light when the food is low enough for the IR LED's path to not be blocked by cat food... so the path would be normally blocked...
Thanks!
Just reverse the logic, so that your device operates on a logical 1 instead of a 0. For the step 8 example, you'd use an NPN transistor instead of the PNP shown.
Or an inverter chip, if you like.
Sorry, I've been off for a while.
It drives the IRLED just fine, really!
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-fast-blinking-LED-bike-light/
My electronics skills are rusty at best, I'm willing to get my hands dirty (with soldering flux I guess) but do you think this may be to complicated for a novice?