First things first:

DISCLAIMER: I am not responsible for any injuries or property damage that may befall you from following this instructable. High voltage electricity can be DANGEROUS and should only be worked with at your own risk. Proper safety precautions should always be followed. 

That out of the way, welcome to my first instructable. Seeing as this is my first, any suggestions for improvements are greatly appreciated. Just go easy on me.
This is intended to be a how-to guide for a newbie to high voltage (like myself) looking for a quick, cheap, and relatively safe project. Although this is not a true tesla coil, as it does not utilize a resonant air-core transformer or operate at high frequencies, in effect it is similar. It still throws out plasma discharges from the top load and about 3.5 centimeter arcs to ground. Estimated output is about 100kv.

Step 1: Parts and Pieces

There aren't many parts to this build, and most can easily by scrounged from old TVs and other electronics or be bought for cheap. The following is needed:

Bug zapper racquet: This can be purchased from Ocean State Job Lot for about 5 bucks, and is nifty for fending of mosquitos or high voltage experiments. There are probably other types of devices very similar, but I would recommend finding the racquet pictured to insure the internal circuitry is the same.
Flyback transformer: Any flyback transformer will do, though the bigger the better. Don't kill yourself looking for an old non-rectified design, since there are no benefits of it for this circuit.
Random assorted hardware: This circuit requires a spark gap to be constructed. The design of the spark gap can vary, as long as the two ends where the arc jumps is rounded, and the gap adjustable. For mine, two Erector set brackets were used. One had a ball bearing soldered to it, the other a nut over top the hole, so a bolt with an acorn nut on the end can be threaded through. See the attached picture for the details. 
2xAA battery holder: Can be purchased from Radioshack or the bug zapper handle can be used to hold the batteries.

Additional Capacitors: Should be rated for at least 1.6 KV. The Bug zapper already contains one, but for bigger sparks more can be used.
Toggle Switch: The switch on the board of the bug zapper can be difficult to use, and because of the design of the bug zapper circuit, floats at high voltage, leading to a shock hazard when it is exposed. Because of this, a new switch is recommended.
Pen body or other plastic tube: To elevate the top load
Top load: I used a ball bearing, but anything smooth and without sharp edges or points can be substituted. 

Of course, solder and a soldering iron as well as other general tools are needed, and wire for connecting everything together


Step 2: Dismantle the Zapper

The bug zapper is easy enough to open. First, pry off the battery cover, and then remove the screws. There are two up near the head of the racquet, two near the bottom of the battery compartment, and another at the top of the battery compartment. Once removed, the back half of the handle can be lifted off, exposing the back of the circuit board. Remove the screw in the middle of the circuit board, and snip the wires running to the head of the racquet as close to the head of the racquet as possible, and snip the wires where they attach to the battery contacts. Now that the board is removed, the rest of the racquet is not needed.

Step 3: Prepare the Zapper Circuit

Now that the circuit is removed, it has to be slightly modified for our needs. First, remove the original momentary push switch, and in its place solder a jumper. Next, remove the negative battery wire from the board, and solder in its place the lead from the AA battery holder. Solder the positive battery wire on the board to the normally open lead on the toggle switch, and the positive lead from the battery holder to the common lead on the toggle switch. If you have extra capacitors, these can be used to make a capacitor bank. if you go this route, desolder the capacitor from the board, and set aside with the other capacitors. If you choose to not do this, leave the capacitor in its place. One of the black wires from the board's output can also be removed, since it is not needed. If you choose to make a capacitor bank, see below. Otherwise, the board is all set. The final product with capacitor bank is showed below, mounted on a piece of painted mdf.

Capacitor Bank:
This is relatively simple to make. Find as many high voltage capacitors as you want to use and wire them in parallel. In my case, I chose to use six, for no apparent reason. They can be mounted on a perf board as shown for a neater appearance. 

Step 4: Spark Gap

One of the wires from the zapper capcitor/capacitor bank feeds directly to the flyback transformer, which will be addressed in the next step, the other through the spark gap. The spark gap works to allow the capacitors to charge to the point when the electricity jumps the gap, and continues into the flyback. This creates short, powerful pulses to feed the flyback. The design of the spark gap can vary, but there are some general requirements:
It has to be adjustable for the width of the gap.
The ends of each electrode should be rounded.
The rounded shape is to prevent corona leakage between the electrodes. For my spark gap, one electrode is a ball bearing, the other a bolt with an acorn nut on the end. The electrodes are then mounted on Erector set pieces, and each nailed to the mdf that my whole setup is mounted on. the bolt can be screwed in or out to adjust the width of the gap. The wider the gap, the slower but more powerful the pulses, the narrower the gap, the faster but weaker the pulses. The gap then feeds into the flyback transformer. 

Step 5: Flyback Transformer

This is easily the most time consuming and tedious part of the build. While many other people might rewind their own primary coils on the flyback, I prefer to use the ones already available, since they are already nicely potted in the flyback. Unlike most flyback driver circuits, which use a primary and feedback coil, this just uses one primary coil. To find the primary coil, its down to trial and error. Using a multimeter, measure the resistance across each pair of pins. I find that in a majority of flybacks, the primary coils (as there are usually more than one) are situated so that their inputs are next to each other. That being said, this is not always the case. As you measure across each set of pins, take note of their resistances, as the one with the lowest resistance has the fewer number of coils. This is the one we are after. However, make sure that this is an independent coil, and that there isn't a third pin connected to it. Once this coil is located, the secondary coil needs to be located. Part of this is already done, since one "pin" is the fat (usually red) wire that comes out of the top of the transformer and has a suction cup on the end. The method for locating the second pin is relatively crude. Connect a 9 volt battery to one of the primary coil pins with an alligator clip, and to the other primary coil pin, connect an alligator clip. Don't connect this alligator clip to the battery yet. Take fat the red wire, and with the suction cup removed and the end stripped, place it close to one of the unused pins. Tap the disconnected terminal of the battery with the loose alligator clip, and look for a spark between the wire and pin. If there is none, move it closer and try again. If there is still no spark, move onto the next pin. If the wire doesn't spark to any of the pins, reverse the polarity of the battery and try the whole process again. Eventually, you will come across the pin you are looking for. Before disconnecting the battery from the flyback, take note of the polarity of the primary coil pins. If you are using one of the new flybacks, the polarity is important, since they contain a rectifier and voltage multiplier circuit. Once the primary coil is located, solder two long wires to it, and to the pin that the fat red wire sparks to, solder another wire. Then, just to be safe, pot the pins in hot glue. Make sure to use plenty of glue, and fill all gaps and spaces. This prevents unwanted arcing. Once this is done, the coil is all set. 

Step 6: Putting it All Together

The flyback is now ready to be wired into the rest of the circuit that we prepared. In my circuit, the positive output from the capacitor bank goes thought the spark gap, then to the flyback. The negative output from the capacitor bank goes directly to the flyback. In this way, the spark gap is wired in series with the flyback. Once this is all set, the circuit is ready to be tested. flip the circuit on, and the red LED that was already on the zapper board should light up. This means the circuit is running and the capacitors are being charged. If you don't get a spark across the spark gap, check the width of the gap. If the electrodes are touching, back the bolt out (or however your spark gap is set up) until a spark is achieved, or if they are too far apart, make the gap smaller. DON'T MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO THE SPARK GAP WHILE THE CIRCUIT IS ON!!!!! If you do so, you will be shocked. Once you have a spark, put the fat red wire close to the wire soldered to the other pin of the secondary. You should have an arc jump the gap. If not move the wires closer. If you get an arc from the secondary coil of the flyback, give yourself a pat on the back, your circuit is done! if not, time for troubleshooting. Check all connections, make sure the capacitor bank is charging by using a high voltage multimeter to check the voltage across the capacitors, check the spark gap width, check the polarity of the primary coil connections to the flyback, and check to make sure you are using the proper pins. Once the circuit is working, it's time to package it all up. Below, the picture is after its been mounted to a piece of mdf and a top load added, which is addressed in the next step.

Step 7: Top Load and Mounting the Circuit

To make the circuit function more like a classic Tesla Coil, one end of the secondary coil needs to be grounded. This is done by simply attaching it to a grounding post or cold water pipe. The pin of the secondary that should be grounded is the one on the bottom of the flyback. The fat red wire is connected to the top load. The top load is simply something metal and smooth, without any edges or points. A large ball bearing works well for this. I then glued the top load to a plastic pen body, with the wire running up the inside. to make the whole set up neater, it was mounted on painted mdf (medium density fiberboard). The wire running to the top load enter the side of the board, then takes a right turn up inside the pen body. The other wire from the secondary coil enters the board from the side, but then connects to a binding post, so that a grounded wire can be attached to it. You can choose to do it as I have done, or mounted everything in a box, or however. 

Using the "Tesla Coil": Turn the switch on, and with a grounded wire attached, plasma discharges will leave the top load. Because the discharges are low amperage, they are difficult to see in the light. In a dark room, once your eyes adjust, they are visible as white, mini lightning bolts. A wire can be attached to the grounding post, and placed near the top load, so it arcs to it. The longest arc I have recorded was about 3.6 cm long. The spark gap can be adjusted to achieve different results as well. Making the gap bigger leads to fewer pulses, as low as 1 a second, but leads to the most powerful discharges out of the top load. This is best when trying to achieve the largest arc to ground. Making the gap smaller leads to faster, but less powerful pulses. This is best for making plasma discharges into the air. Making the gap too small, however, will severely weaken the discharges. Finally, don't run the circuit for too long, no more than about 30 to 35 seconds at a time, as this can lead to the zapper circuit overheating and failing. 

Congratulations on your new AA battery powered "Tesla Coil"!. Have fun with it, show it off to family members and friends, and experiment with high voltage! Remember, just remember to use common sense and be safe.
<p>what did you use for the ground connection.</p>
<p>Could I use a microwave capacitor in the capacitor bank? What about an electrolytic one?</p>
You certainly wouldn't want to use electrolytic capacitors because they would explode/experience other malfunctions due to the issue of polarity and the voltages involved. I'm not sure about the microwave oven capacitor. All I know is that I have seen people use them in other high voltage projects.
<p>Awesome! I made this late lat night and it works great! The arcs are infrequent but when the spark gap fires the arcs are huge! I have been thinking about increasing the output with an array of saltwater capacitors.</p>
<p>Great job also salt water capacitor is a great idea i added it to my flyback and got thick blue arcs and do you connect the zapper to the primary of the flyback?</p>
Yes, you connect the outputs of the zapper circuit to the primary coil. You actually have two options: find the actual pins for the primary or wrap some wire around the core. I would recommend the first option, but both will work.
<p>Hey i also have a toshiba flyback with the datasheet (bsc25-t1010a) and im not sure which is the primary in the schematic it says h h1 h2 h3 h4 etc. no primary</p>
<p>I need a voltage pulse of 3.5 kv. Can i get it with this circuit or does it produce only very high voltages. </p>
<p>The bug zapper circuit alone produces about 1.75 kv. By using a 1:2 step up transformer you could reach about 3.5kv.</p>
<p>and by 1:2 stepup transformer I mean in place of the flyback transformer. </p>
<p>The zapper should be connected to the primary of the flyback right?</p>
Does it work???
<p>Would it be possible to connect some sort of &quot;microcontroller&quot; to be able to play musical tunes? </p><p>(like in this project http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Musical-Te...</p>
<p>I don't have a flyback transformer on me. Could I just use another transformer from a different bug zapper? Isn't that big black component with the yellow strip on the zapper circuit already a flyback transformer? </p>
Hi i have made the almost setup and i am facing the problem in grouding the terminal of secondary coil can you please help me or suggest me what to do for grouding the terminal
<p>sorry im not sure why it got posted more than once.</p>
<p>I'm extremely new to all of this, and im building a tesla coil (or something similar) for a science project. I was wondering if there was a certain type of wire i needed to use, or if it didn't matter. And if there is anything i need to know or any videos or something that would be good for this can someone please let me know? thanks</p>
<p>I'm extremely new to all of this, and im building a tesla coil (or something similar) for a science project. I was wondering if there was a certain type of wire i needed to use, or if it didn't matter. And if there is anything i need to know or any videos or something that would be good for this can someone please let me know? thanks</p>
<p>I'm extremely new to all of this, and im building a tesla coil (or something similar) for a science project. I was wondering if there was a certain type of wire i needed to use, or if it didn't matter. And if there is anything i need to know or any videos or something that would be good for this can someone please let me know? thanks</p>
<p>I made it... but plasma discharges are not much longer. what should i Do ? Shall i add a step up transformer to the circuit ? i mean Can i connect the transformer to one of the wire outgoing from the zapper circuit to the primary coil ? or else suggest me a method plz.</p>
<p>not a tesla coil</p>
That can be considered as tesla coil as soon as can light up a lamp or can create a wireless energy
<p>It already is lighting up just in a spectrum can not fully see, it is also emitting &quot;wireless&quot; energy in the for a EMF. <br>If you are too stupid to think of a way to collect that energy then that is your own failure of an education not someone elses....</p>
<p>why do you think it is not a tesla coil?</p>
<p>Thanks, I successfully made a Tesla Coil! BUT. The arcs from my electrode are roughly 1 inch, which is fine, but my flyback transformer is exerting arcs of electricity out the back (Near the high voltage output wire), and this isnt from an open pipe for wires, I mean literally straight out the back of it. The largest was 3 inches, why is my flyback doing this and why are they larger than the arcs from the electrode?? Thanks in advance!</p>
So are you using the flyback as your primary and secondary coils instead of just upping the voltage? Cause I don't see a coil on your torrid
<p>plzzzz help me i cannot make capacitor bank so tell me capacitor rating used in the project</p>
<p>unfortunately, I do not know the capacitor bank values, and I cannot really check since I am at college. But since this capacitor bank is not part of a resonant circuit like on a real Tesla Coil, the value does not have to be exact. Aim for somewhere in the .05 to .1 uF range for the whole bank </p>
<p>what is capacitor rating used for capacitor bank?????????????</p>
<p>I could only find rechargeable zappers. There are lithium batteries and the plug is connected to the circuit board. Do you know how I could rearrange this? I'm a complete beginner in these things.</p>
<p>This should work, though I don't understand why there appears to be five wires coming off the board- the two white at the bottom and white, yellow, and brown coming out of the top. It would really be a matter of identifying which wires go where. Whichever go to the mesh are the ones we want. </p>
<p>The bug zapper raquets are often on sale at Harbor Freight for about $3 US.</p><p>I buy them 6 or 8 at a time and give them as gifts...</p>
Nice simple design! I love it ! Going to try this! <br>
I have a 200v capacitor laying around, would that be uh... safe LOL of course the whole thing is dangerous, but I'm meaning more will the whole set up be able to withstand that kinda juice discharge? I know its only a tiny battery but still..
oh dear I just noticed my capacitor is rattling. Is this normal? Kinda a newbie to this and dont have any voltage meters to test it.
They should not rattle. And the capacitor should be rated for atleast 2000 volts. Thats the output from the fly swatter
I made a same 'Tesla coil' as you made but the problem i'm having is with the capacitors,using the one in the zapper itself are too weak,i made 6 bottle capacitors by myself but i was getting small arcs,and the capacitors made arcing sounds. I was thinking if i could use a large cap,about 1 micro farad?? <br>I cant get small ones and the one i make are too weak...
bottle caps can have issues. Make sure any fluid in the cap (if its a classic salt water cap) is below the top of the tinfoil that wraps the bottle. This prevents coronal loss. <br>also, the caps can be too small or two large. All i can say for sure is to try it. By tuning the combination of the capacitor and spark gap you can tune the coil
hmm. this cant be a tesla coil, the output is automatically rectified from the flyback,. nice one though
i know its not a tesla coil.... Its more of a descriptive use of the term. the differences between a true Tesla Coil and this project is highlighted in the intro
could you upload a schematic of your racket's board? i have all those parts already if i could see how they went together.
Here are some pics. Unfortunately I wont be able to upload an actual schematic for a while so this is in case you want to get a head start on it.
I'll post some better pictures of the board shortly. I am really busy as of late and will put up a schematic eventually, but in the mean time it might be quicker if you were to do it yourself. I can't trust myself to do it in a timely manner...
thanks joe for solving my problem and concerns , but ive got anothe prob here ive bought a bigger flyback from my local electronic repair shop the guy tlod me that it was removed from old TV but it is giving smaller sparks can you tell me why is it so? <br>
Is it a rectified type or unrectified? The old flybacks have just a pancake coil on them, with no rectifier circuit. The rectifier circuit of modern flybacks also have a voltage multiplier in them, which can give you longer sparks. That being said, if you build a ZVS type flyback driver you want the unrectified type because then you can run it at higher power without destroying the rectifier circuit. <br>I would check to make sure you are running it at the proper polarity, if it is rectified, as well as making sure you are using one of the lowest resistance coils.
i dont know but looks like the same one as the one you shown in the picture<br>

About This Instructable




Bio: Why fix it if it ain't broken? Because it's fun.
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