ANVIL STAND, HOW TO MAKE

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Introduction: ANVIL STAND, HOW TO MAKE

Hi everyone. In this Project I make
an anvil stand with a small rubber shock- absorbing and reduce the noise. I hope you like it.

If you like the video please Subscribe to my Youtube Channel.

Step 1: My Tools:

Miter Saw

Radial, Angle Grinder

Router

Drill

Sandpaper

Hammer

A lot of wood glue

Ring Spanner

The wood that I use is pine wood 10cm x 10cm.

Step 2: Ok, Let´s Do It.

First of all, I cut off the Woods to 40 cm, I get 16 pieces , and then

16 pieces more of 20 cm.

Step 3:

Once everything has been cut off, then I review the edges with a

sandpaper of 120, to remove possible sprinters.

Step 4: Ok, This Part Is a Little Brain Tease. Let´s Call Large to the 40 Cm Pieces and Short for the Pieces of 20cm

The first ones that I glue are 4 long in line forming a piece of 40 x 40

x 10cm and I repeat it with other 4 large pieces more. Then I glue 2 long forming a piece of 20 x 40 x 10 cm and other 2 more. On the other hand I glue 4 small forming a block of 20 x 20 x 20cm. At the end of this part we have to have two pieces of 40 x 40 x 10 cm, two pieces of 40 x 20 x 10 cm and a small piece of 20 x 20 x 20 cm.

Step 5:

We continue with the pieces that remain and we do exactly the same thing

but with the small pieces, forming the following pieces: two pieces of 40 x 20 x 10cm, two of 20 x 20 x 10cm and one of 40 x 20 x 20cm and we continue with puzzle.

Step 6:

Now we glued all the pieces forming a 40 x 40 x 40 cube, leaving in the

center the 20 cm block and thus leaving a gap in which we will fit the next piece.

Step 7:

With the pieces of 20 tall we form a block of 40 x 40 x 20cm high, in

the center we place the block of 40 x 20 x 20, creating the opposite side to the piece that we already have.

Step 8: In This Part We Are Going to Form Hoops With Three Cm Wide Plate.

Step 9:

I made the first frame 60cm from one end and from there I was marking at

40cm. Then I held it in the bench press, I folded it with our main tool, which are the hands and as it did not fit, I helped myself with a Hammer, forming a ring of 40 x 40.

Step 10:

Next, I placed them in the wooden blocks, I held them with a press and I

drilled them with a 6mm bit. Then, I passed another 10mm, then put the screws. I put a screw on each side of the cue.

Step 11: Restoration to the Anvil

In this part I make a small restoration to the anvil.

Step 12:

Simply, I remove the rust with a

wire brush for the radial and rough the flat part of the anvil, because it has too many cutting marks. I helped me with a roughing glass and I finish it with a disk of a thousand leaves of 120. I do not remove all the marks because I do not want to spend more on the anvil. I'm hesitant, because I do not know whether to fill the marks with solder and then sand it. If you have another idea, please comment on it.

Step 13: In the End I Give Him Some Linseed Oil.

Step 14:

Now I present the anvil on top of the wooden block to make a recess with

the help of the router so that it does not move at the time of hitting.

Step 15: In the End I Give Him Some Linseed Oil.

Step 16: I Keep Cutting the Rubber, Making a Hole 20 X 20 in the Center.

Step 17: And It's Time to Ride It. We Place the First Wooden Block, We Continue With the Rubber and the Other Wooden Block. Then We Just Put the Anvil on It and We Have It Ready.

Thanks for seeing it. I´ll wait for your comments.

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    22 Comments

    Hey so about your comment on filling in the cuts with solder, DONT DO IT. it can (over time) effect the face under the surface. If it bothers you, send or take it to a machine shop and have them plane the face. You do not want to heat up the face as most anvils have a hardened plate that was cast with the anvil. What you did with a wire wheel and the linseed oil is perfect for he rest of the body. If you have any other questions, I can probably help you out.

    1 reply

    Sorry for taking a long time to answer. Thank you very much for your comment and your advice. I will not solder in the face of the anvil and I liked the idea of taking it to restify. best regards

    thank you very much

    Just a suggestion for future builds. Lay a ring of the four by fours on the floor. The lay a complete layer across that. Crisscross them to the correct height. Use long lag bolts to hold everything together. No need for the steel bands that way. Even with the bands that end grain on your build will eventually split.

    1 reply

    Sorry for taking a long time to answer. Thank you very much for your comment. For a future, I will take your advice.best regards

    Awesome build. I appreciate the thorough documentation with photos and lastly the perfectly edited video with cool background music.

    1 reply

    Sorry for taking a long time to answer. Thank you very much for your comment. best regards

    Wow, I'm filing this one for the happy day when I get an anvil like yours! Super build and very well documented instructable!

    1 reply

    Sorry for taking a long time to answer. Thanks for your comment. I hope you get a good anvil.best regards

    Great project, thanks I need something similar.

    Some Europeans call welding soldering.

    Ralph

    1 reply

    Sorry for taking a long time to answer. Thanks for your comment.

    best regards

    Very, very nice work on this stand. The stand options are always either expensive, complicated or way out of reach for the average bloke. If you don’t mind I might share a couple of thoughts from my experience with hammerin’ hot iron for awhile now. I would eliminate the padding from between the top and bottom pieces. Anything that absorbs the power of your impact makes it harder to move hot steel. And you probably don’t want to fill any imperfections in the anvil with solder. Hot iron is WAY hotter than any solder and will melt on contact. It might also transfer to your iron making it even harder to get where you want to go. Welding a hard coat (or any weld for that matter) would probably be a bit better option.

    Thanks again for taking the time to make this post. Anything to get new folks into this archaic and mystifying game is to be applauded!

    1 reply

    Sorry for taking a long time to answer. The filling between the pieces is to remove vibrations in the ground. as I have the workshop on a 3rd floor and I do not want to bother much. Thank you very much for your comment and your advice. a greeting

    That is a brilliant design. Very nice, i'd love to build me one of those!

    1 reply

    sorry for taking a long time to answer, thank you very much for your comment