Introduction: ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer

Picture of ATtiny 84 & 85 Programmer

Hi! Here’s my contribution to the long line of making programming shields to the Atmega –family.

I’m using to allmost ewery project of my own them ATtiny 84 (the 14 pin’s) & ATtiny85 (the 8 pin’s).

I got my ”kicks” from a Instructable made by: Eric Brouwer

https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-UNO-as-At...

(many thanks to Eric for a superb instruction).

I’m NOT going in for that how to do the programming/flashing itself in this ible.

I highly recommend You to first read the Eric’s Ible.

Step 1: Version 1

Picture of Version 1

My build version 1 .Take this version as a reference only.
It is for the Atiny 84 & 861. It works fine.

There’s only some things to observe.

I program the shield from the ICSP on Arduino Uno, thus I could not get it to run by taking the ”reset” via the ICSP,

I don’t know why?? Instead i connected the reset to the pin 10 on UNO, (SS).

I have a parallel connector ”BILGE” here, don’t mind that, it’s for my own purposes only.

Notice the place’ing of them Power switch and the Leveller arm of the ZIF socket, they ”owerlap” each other.

This ensures that You don’t insert or remove the chip with the Power ON.

The PCB’s are single sided and therefore I have to use some jumpers, (look at the CS). In the picture these jumpers look like ”resistors” and they actually are, but with a resistance of ”0” ohm. (they come wery handy many times).

I use in my ATtiny 84 internal clock, (in my case 8Mhz), but during the ”flash” the chip requiers an external 16Mhz crystal to be able to communicate with the UNO. Like in Eric’s ible, first You need to load the ”bootloader”.

Step 2:

Picture of

Step 3: Version 2

Picture of Version 2

My version 2 for Attiny 84 and Attiny 85
As said, for now I only have them PCB Layouts. Here I use 2 power switches to prevent them both chips to be powered at the same time and thats allso the reason to the need of separate crystals,(no big deal $ 1,20). I couldnt find a 8-pin ZIF socket for the Attiny85 anywhere, so I had to use a 14-pin’s. Beware of that when inserting the –85 chip!!

I have made the PCB with a program ”TARGET 3001” which I named: tinypgm.T3001

It maybe opens with some other program allso?

I allso attach them ”Gerber” files both in a ZIP file and all separately.

Step 4: Version 2 PCB Layout

Picture of Version 2 PCB Layout

Notice! The ZIF socket for the ATTiny85 is allso a 14-pin and the chip is only 8-pin.

Place the chip in the uppermost position.

Step 5:

Picture of

Comments

DIY Hacks and How Tos (author)2017-09-29

Cool project. Could you share some more details about how you connected it to the Arduino?

OK.
As You can see in Step 2, (the picture), I’m using a ”ribbon cable”
with IDC-conectors, 6-poles, head to head: UNO ICSP <--> Programmer J1.
The problem for me was, as I discribe in Step 1, the ”reset” on UNO ICSP pin 6.
This is the ”HARD” reset on UNO. There’s a way to go around that but I’m not doing it. That’s why I rather connect the ”reset” to pin 10 (SS) on UNO.
Doing this I got another problem:

To separate the ”reset/ SS” lead from the ribbon cable.
Well, I did it this way:
1. Measure the ribbon cable to a length reaching from Prog. <- > to UNO pin 10.
2. Separate the ”reset” lead from the cable
3. Cut them rest 5 leads to reach to the ICSP
4. Attach the IDC-housing to the cable, thus using a ”DUMMY lead”
to replace the ”reset” lead
5. You need to use this ”DUMMY lead” because it’s nearby impossible to get them leads to line up in the housing without it.

6. Them indicators on Prog. J2 are connected to UNO pins 7,8,9

(see the schema in Step 3)

I hope this give You the info You asked for?

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Bio: Gee.. Me 65+ years. My first contact with them logic's was about in them mid-70's. There was allso something called 'DTL-logic', and ewen ... More »
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