The Weather station I made is based on the software of Daniel Eichhorn from Switserland . This firmware includes measurement of the inside temperature + humidity, outside temperature + air pressure (fetching data from a 2nd weatherstation connected to thingspeak) and local forecast data from Wunderground (Weather underground) See his blog at http://blog.squix.ch/
I want to make sure for my project that this time I added really everything required to complete my Instructable. If anything is missing let me know!
I thought it would be cool to design my own Weather Station with a larger OLED display (not the original 0.96", I found 2.4") and pay a lot of attention to the looks of the station. So as "enclosure" I used Acrylic sheet which I laser-cutted in the shape of a sun/cloud. My goal was to let the acrylic "glow" depending on the forecast or other criterium: red means its getting warmer, blue means its getting colder, white flashing: thunderstorm expected. Etc. Or perhaps just a pretty color you like?
To do this I used approx. 20cm Adafruit RGB LED Neopixel strip around the OLED display (a total of 12 Neopixels are on the strip). They are very easy to use with their 1-wire connection and built-in LED controller PER LED! Cheaper Chinese clones might work but I wanted to be sure and wanted to use the Adafruit lib.
So I expanded the firmware with Neopixel control (RGB led's on a strip, from Adafruit) and a smooth fading pattern. Depending on forecast data and current readings the Neopixels now fade in a certain color.
I used almost any technique I had at my disposal. Laser cutting, 3d printing thanks to my local FabLab, CAD schematic design + PCB, Arduino programming.
This has been added AFTER I published the instructable and the text following in this step.
I noticed that the USB cable was clearly visible in the images I uploaded. I did not pay attention to it at the time of posting but now it started to annoy me. So I have a solution. Instead of using the USB connector mentioned below in my Electronics Bill Of Materials use this one. Now the USB cable will be pointed backward when plugging it in. This connector however does not fit on the PCB design that I made. To overcome this a slight mechanical finetune was needed. The 2 large metal pins that are on this connector I bent to the sides and solder them to the PCB large ground pads. The 5 USB data pins I had to slightly push towards the PCB so that they touched the PCB and could be soldered. I also added a picture showing how to do that with this Step. It's up to you which connector to use, in the BOM is the one fitting directly on the PCB but the one mentioned in this update makes the station look better!
Files to download
Download the ZIP file I attached to this project, it contains everything: the CAD files for the lasercutter (body + stand) and 3d printer (display bezel), the schematic and Gerber files for the PCB, a Bill of Materials for the electronics and the Firmware
For the mechanical part I used Acrylic sheet. Here in the Netherlands I found a very cheap supplier of real Plexiglas where you can order the smallest sizes you like (just the size you need) in all thicknesses. For Dutch readers click here. For the others you will have to find this locally.
You could use for the base and body any acrylic you like, I show here what I did. But for example the cloud/sun body could also be out of 1 clear sheet instead of the cloud being clear and the sun yellow-clear.
Here is a complete overview of what I used for my project. In the Electronics step further on I'll explain what the parts are used for. You could decide to not use them all depending on what you want the station to show. At minimum you need an ESP8266 and the OLED display!