Introduction: Add Wireless Charging to Any Phone: Using the LG-V20 As Example

Picture of Add Wireless Charging to Any Phone: Using the LG-V20 As Example

If you are like me and plan on keeping your phone for more than 2 years, then your phone must have

  1. A replaceable battery, because the battery only lasts about 2 years, and
  2. And wireless charging so you don't wear out the charging port.

Now the easy solution is to add a charging reciever to the back of the phone that just plugs into the USB port. However, that option gets in the way of using the USB port. There may be times when a wireless charging pad is not available or you want to connect the phone to your computer. So I prefer to wire the receiver into the inside of the phone to keep the USB port open.

I added wireless charging to my previous phone, a Galaxy S3, but it is now 5 years old and needs replacing. So I went looking for a new phone. One with good features but still sporting a replaceable battery. My choice was the LG V20. What follows will be a discussion of how I added wireless charging to the V20, but also with general notes for those that may which to try it on their own phone. The concepts are the same, but implementation may vary.

do not do this if you are uncomfortable with any step.


Step 1: Gather the Materials You Will Need

You will need a clean, safe place to work that has good light and no one to disturb your work. You will be handling tiny screws, chemicals and a hot soldering iron. Make sure you have a safe place to stow the soldering iron so you or others will not get burned.

Items needed:

  1. Tools needed to disassemble your phone. I.e.:Jewelers screwdriver set, etc.
  2. USB cable that fits your phone. One you don't mind destroying.
  3. Knife or blade to strip and cut wires
  4. Possibly a small cutting/grinding tool for shaping plastic and making holes, etc.
    Mine would have looked better if I had used one.
  5. Soldering tools:
    • Soldering Iron with VERY FINE TIP.
    • Water soluble rosin to help tin the Iron and the wire.
    • Rosin core solder, NOT acid core!
    • A wet sponge to clean the tip with.
  6. 90% Isopropel alcohol if you can find it. 70% is probably OK, but use it conservatively.
  7. Magnification: Head mounted, free standing or an eye-loop. Phones have very tiny parts.
  8. Flashlight
  9. Lots of guts to do this on a new phone. I was risking quite a bit of money.

Seems like a lot, but each item has a part to play.

Step 2: Get a Charging Transmitter and Receiver

Picture of Get a Charging Transmitter and Receiver

Charging Types

  • Qi ("chi") charging is currently the charging standard. There is the regular (5 watts & 1 amp) and now there is a "Fast" option (15 watts & 3 amps). For Fast charging you need both a Fast receiver and transmitter. I opted for the standard since I find that it is adequate for overnight charging and the battery on most phones will last the day under normal use.

Operation and Considerations:

  • Wireless charging is nothing but a split transformer, where one half transmits power via a high frequency magnetic field to the receiver side that then rectifies and smooths it to 5 volts DC.
  • Many phenomenon (like light) fall off in strength via a squared distance function (Strength / DxD). However, magnetic field strength is a cubed function (Strength / DxDxD). What this means is that the power transfer capability drops off very fast. Therefore, separation between the Transmitter and Receiver must be kept to a minimum, less than about 4 mm. Therefore, large fat and thick cases can make charging next to impossible unless you consider how to get the receiver closer to the transmitter. Receivers built into a phone prevent the use of thick protective cases. Also metal cases prevent the use of a receiver inside the case due to excessive currents in the case that use up the power and overheat the circuits. In my Galaxy S3, I used a thick case but got around it by taping the receiver to the outside of the phone back and removed the inner layer of the two piece case so that the separation was less than 4 mm.
  • Note that charging receivers have a special magnetic shield on the back side. This shield helps to keep the material behind the coils from interfering with the magnetic field and thus improving performance. if you decide to expose the receiver coil, do not remove this shield. You also want to make sure the receiver is mounted face out. The outside face will be marked in some way, perhaps as illustrated.
  • On the charging receiver if the positive and negative terminals are not obvious or marked then you may have to place it on a charging pad and use your voltmeter to identify the positive and negative points to wire to.
  • You can use most any transmitter since the new QI standard is backward compatible. That is it will detect if your receiver is capable of fast charging and if not will not overload it.

I chose a charging receiver that seemed reputable and I had seen evidence that when opened it had pretty copper wires. I wanted to see the insides, but additionally, removing the cover also gets the receiver coil closer to the transmitter coil. I intended to add a clear insulating case to protect it.

Step 3: Disassemble the Phone

Picture of Disassemble the Phone

You need to get into the phone to identify a place to connect your charging receiver. I will not go into detail here, since nearly all phones have disassembly instructions somewhere on the web. Suffice it to say I reviewed several of these videos for the V20 before I chose to buy the phone. The V20 is very easy to take apart. You may not need to remove the motherboard as I did and as it turned out I didn't need to. Be thinking ahead about how to route the wires out of the phone. At this point you may decide that this is not something you want to do based on the difficulty of disassembly or soldering.

Step 4: Be Familiar With the USB Pinout

Picture of Be Familiar With the USB Pinout

You should learn what you can about the USB socket's pin-out. This is readily available on line for any type of USB socket. Shown is the USB Type C used on my LG V20.

In my research I guessed that the 24 pins of the USB Type C socket were arranged as shown in the upper left of the second figure. Using the pin-out diagram on the right I deduced the topside pin assignments as shown in the lower part of the second figure. However, there was no obvious +Vbus location to solder to. The pins on the socket are way to small to solder to, therefore, we must find another place to solder that we will verify with a volt-ohm meter. You have to make your own decisions about where to solder the wires and your capabilities.

Step 5: Verification: Make a Test Cable

Picture of Verification: Make a Test Cable

You will need a cable to plug into the phones charging socket. You will use this to find the +Vbus inside the phone as well as verify the ground. Ground should be the socket casing itself. DO NOT PLUG A LIVE POWER CORD INTO THE CHARGING PORT. Placing power on the mother board when disassembled and probing around could destroy the phone.

Find a cable that fits your phones charging port. For me this was a micro usb with a Type-C adapter.

Strip the wires and identify the wires that are for the ground and the +5vdc (+Vbus). For a Micro-USB this should be Black for ground and Red for +5vdc.

Step 6: Find a Place to Solder the +5 Vdc and Ground.

Picture of Find a Place to Solder the +5 Vdc and Ground.

Ground site: Set your ohm meter to "Resistance", "Ohms" or "Continuity". Plug your test cable into the phone. Attach one lead of your ohm-meter to the black wire of your test cable. Now touch the other lead to the socket casing and other places you may have identified as ground. You should get a zero ohms reading or a continuity signal. Now decide where you want to solder your ground wire. As part of deciding, look at any other phone parts that might obstruct that location. Also consider how you are going to route the wire out of the phone. Keep in mind also that you need a "large" spot to solder to. (As you will see later, soldering is difficult in these tiny spaces)

+Vbus site: Now connect your ohm meter to the red wire of your test cable. Now look for a "Large" spot with continuity to the red wire. You may find more than one. As you probe around, consider how you will route your wire each site you find.

V20 Results: In the figure you can see a plus and minus sign. These are the negative and positive sites I chose. As we continue you will see how fantastically great a location these turned out to be for routing the wire in my LG V20.

Step 7: Solder Your Wires On

Picture of Solder Your Wires On

Now, very carfully solder the two wires, red to Positive Vbus and Black to Negative. After soldering the wires, double check your continuity to the Black and Red wires of your test cable. Make sure they are not shorted to nearby components. Clean the resin off with the Isopropel alcohol and allow time for it to dry.

CAUTION: I had an almost needle point soldering iron with temperature control and had a hard time. As you can see in the first figure that it looked like I had bridged to the capacitor on the left. In the second I had used a razor blade to slice off a bit of the solder. Then in last figure I had cleaned it with 90% Isopropel alcohol and it doesn't look to bad. Notice the melted insulation. Notice how "big" this tiny wire looks.

NOTE: You should use the smallest insulated wire you can find. I used the wire out of the USB cable that I had used for my test cable. However, I found out, and you can see in the figures that the insulation melted. Wire with a high temp insulation would be better. Some heat shrink might work, but would likely make the wire too large.

NOTE: Isopropel alcohol is non-conductive. Therefore, it will not harm the electronics and it will also dry quickly. Excellent tool to have handy if you drop your phone into water. Rice can dry a phone but it can not clean it. Water often has dissolved salts that will leave conductive films on components when dry. A bath in Isopropel alcohol can clean and help dry the phone and has a better chance of restoring full operation.

Step 8: Routing the Wires

Picture of Routing the Wires

You should have already considered how to route your wires. Once I found the location of the wire attach points, I was able to make a better assessment of routing possibilities. Now that the wires were in place I could get even more specific. My V20 has a plastic cover over the mother board that I knew I would have to "sculpted" but it turned out to be easier than expected. I was able to run the wires alongside the USB port and then up at a right angle through the plastic cover. I know I did not want to drill holes in the back of the phone case, though I was prepared to if required. As it turned out the passage through the plastic cover just missed the metal back. Also the solder on the ground wire interfered with the cover, so I had to trim some material off of the inside of the cover at that location. The end piece of the V20 is plastic (contains the antennae?) and all I had to do was add a couple of small notches for the wires. I also added some clear packing tape to the metal back for insulation.

NOTE: I was planning on laying the wires on top of the inner plastic and having some very thin copper bend over the metal back into the inside to contact with the wires. However, I decided it would be easier to just attach the wires outside the phone. But I had removed the insulation from the ends of the wires before changing my mind. It would have been better to have left it on, decreasing any chance of shorting to the back cover. Some day I may move it inside anyway, but that will require additional sculpting of the internal plastic shield.

Step 9: Finish

Picture of Finish

Make sure you don't cross positive to negative and complete your installation. My V20 came with a clear plastic protective cover on the back so I did not need to add additional protection except for the bottom edge where the wires might short. So I put two layers of clear packing tape over the edge.

Placement of the receiver coil is up to you. Most phones center the coil however, depending on your transmitter size and shape you may have other ideas. Centering the coils on each other is almost as important as minimizing separation

You can refer back to the first figure for the final appearance. The receiver causes the back to bulge a little, but less since I removed the little round piece of metal in the center of the coil. I had put that there to assist with centering on my transmitter, which contains a magnet. However, it was not very effective and caused excessive bulge and separation, so I took it out.

Step 10: Results

Picture of Results

Wireless charging is much slower that wired charging. I read that some expectations could range from 4 hours on up. A quick test on my V20 despite the note that it is "Charging Slowly" is that it might take up 6 hours to charge. This is quite acceptable since I will charge at night and so far battery life has been excellent.

The V20 could probably use a "Fast" charger since it is designed for fast WIRED charging. I just did not choose that. Partly because I already have regular "slow" chargers and the "Fast" ones cost more.

I hope this helps others, especially those LG V20 owners that miss the wireless charging.


TTHg (author)2017-11-26

I don't know I tried with a wireless charging things but is not really working on a Huawei P 9 Lite, its it because it don´t support USB GO, and will this solve it?

Peanut Boy (author)TTHg2017-12-04

AlanS14, you are right. USB GO (or USB OTG) is a communications standard extension of the USB standard. It does not impact the 5 VDC USB standard power or anything to do with charging the phone. The phone must have a wireless charging Receiver built in or you must do something like I did in this instructable. DO NOT ATTEMPT it if you are not comfortable with all the details.

AlanS14 (author)TTHg2017-12-03

What has USB Go got to with this project? They are different things.

AlanS14 made it! (author)2017-11-29


I've been toying with the idea of doing the same kind of thing, my phone is one of the many generic Chinese ones but is generally pretty good. Your guide concretes some of the thoughts I've had so many thanks. One of the things I didn't like was the idea of an externally mounted aerial.

I have been hoping to find a charger coil assembly that can connect directly to the battery terminals so would need the battery management circuitry built in to the circuitry supplied with the coil. (obviously I wouldn't connect directly to the battery but to convenient points on the phone circuitry). does the circuitry with your coil only regulate to USB voltage (5V) rather than battery charge voltage?
(I can also foresee that this connection may cause some other issues with the phone battery monitoring software).

[at this point can I ask a question? What are the sizes of the aerial and circuitry? particularly the thickness].

Anyhow I'm going to use one of those protective cases that you can get for the phones, fit the aerial inside the phone then fit the new cover but not the phones original back cover. This allows extra space for the charge coil assembly. There are hard cases and more flexibletype. I got a flexible silicone gel type and I think that will do the job.

I've attached a couple of pics of these covers for your phone in case the idea is of interest to you - they are available for around a UK pound or two.

Peanut Boy (author)AlanS142017-11-30

The receiver coil (aerial) had to be external on my phone since it has a metal back. Most (maybe all) phones have no room for the receiver coil inside. My Galaxy S3 would bulge with it inside and not lay flat.

Your idea of leaving off the phone's back is interesting, but keep in mind that dirt can be bad for the phone. I carry my phone in my pocket and already have had to remove my cover to clean dirt off of the coil (aerial) near the on/off button. Dirt will contain conductive salts that could be fatal to the sensitive low voltage circuits.

The receiver coil and electronics board is about 2 mm thick. I chose to use a single piece clear cover because 1) I can show off the shiny coils & 2) It does not add a lot of size (the V20 is big) and 3) it is flexible enough that the phone will lay flat because the receiver is essentially flat even though it bulges. On my Galaxy S3 it would spin on the bulge because the plastic back was not flexible enough to flatten out. Also, having read many phone reviews I decided that the two piece case I used before was probably no longer needed. However, if you are really concerned about your phones drop protection then I would suggest a case that has a rubber inner and hard outer shell. You can put the receiver coil on the back of the phone, (with the back on) and make room for it by cutting out a hole in the rubber inner case. The outer shell then will cover up the hole and hide the receiver. This means that the case only ads separation equal to the thickness of the outer shell.

The receiver coil does not have charging circuits in it. It only generates the expected 5 volts needed for charging. Most batteries to day have 4 connections. A positive and a negative connection plus 2 others to sense temperature, etc. for charging control and safety. DO NOT connect the QI standardized receiver directly to the battery. BAD THINGS WILL HAPPEN. You must find a way to connect to the same circuit at the charging port uses and let the phones built-in charging circuit manage the charging process.

As you consider all of the possibilities, remember that the charging coils (aerials) must be as close as possible and no more than maybe 5 mm apart and centered on each other.

I hope this helps. There are many design criteria to keep in mind for any specific phone.

AlanS14 (author)Peanut Boy2017-12-03


So what exactly does the coil circuitry do? If it does supply a 5V output then why can't the phones own regulation do that job, why would 2 regulators be needed?

Leaving off the cover with those flexible gel type backs is fine, it fits snugly to the phones case so gives at least as good protection as the original cover. Transmission through it should be fine, it's about 0.8mm thick.

I still think inside the phone is better, more resilient and (to me) looks better.

Peanut Boy (author)AlanS142017-12-04

In a wireless charging system you have a transmitter, a receiver and control circuitry for both. (See more below) Since each phone has a different battery then each phone contains their own battery charging and safety controls. Few are the same. However, for a source of power, for charging the phone, "all" phones use the USB port's standardized 5 VDC. Therefore, the QI ("Chee") standard wireless charging system can be designed to provide a single voltage of 5 VDC, since all phones use the same voltage. Any voltage higher or lower could cause the circuit to fail, or worse, set the phone on fire.

If each phone required a different charging voltage then you would not have a standard and each phone would have their own chargers and connectors. This is the way laptops are. There is not one standard voltage for all laptops to work off of, therefore, there are hundreds of different laptops power supplies with different voltages, power outputs and different plugs. By having all phones use the same USB plugs and their standard 5 VDC then you avoid all of the confusion and extra cost.

The receiver coil in the picture is one half of a transformer. The other half is in the Transmitter or "Charging Plate". The QI control circuitry controls the transformers frequency and current to insure proper control of the 5 VDC.

Hope this helps.

RaymondR6 (author)2017-11-26

I like the project but many newer smartphones have sealed backs and will not "qualify". Use older models with removable backs and cells (what is commonly described as a "battery" is just one Li-Ion cell).

In my case, all of my phones are Samsung Galaxy models, which had "Qi" wireless charging since the S4 model (the latest is the S8), and was one of the very first to use that "Qi" standard. So if your smartphone doesn't have the wireless charging feature, and has a sealed back, swap it for one that does have it (such as a Samsung), or use an older model that allows such modifications.

If you want to protect the micro USB charge port from damage (and not do such modifications), buy a set of micro USB connector and cable with a magnetic attachment. The connector stays inside the micro USB slot, and the cable attaches easily with a magnet. All of my tablets have this. I recommend Volta which sells cables and connectors for micro USB, USB type "C", and Lightning II.

AlanS14 (author)RaymondR62017-12-03

I tried the magnetic type but used it for only a few days- didn't like it.

JohnC430 (author)2017-12-01

more than one way to skin a cat... this is the easy way.. magnetic charging:

check this out:

it has a permanently plugged in connector in the phone and a .... well look at it... $1. how can u beat that?

thardy2 (author)2017-11-26

This is really cool. I'm not trying to poop on your idea by any means, but if you can open the phone easily, why not just buy another charging port/daughter board so you can replace your existing one when it wears out? The USB C is designed for 10,000 plug/unplug cycles so it's fair to say you'll probably never wear the port out. Barring some unexpected damage to the port, That's 27 years of plugging the phone in every day.

AlanS14 (author)thardy22017-11-29

Not all components last for the design life. (the statistics used to determine that artificial life can be debated too).

My usb socket has 'come loose' after just a few months use so no longer charges or sends data so this is ideal for charging until repairs can be made. Data can be sent by wifi.

Korishan (author)thardy22017-11-26

It's not about the plug/unplug cycles. It's more about the freedom wireless brings you. You don't have to fumble with the phone and wire to get it connected (yes, I know C type is easier than predecessors, but you still have to align it squarely with the port). With wireless you just drop the phone on the charger. When you need to go, just pick it up and go. You don't have to worry about snagging the wire.

Or, like in my case, my dogs' wagging tail can sometimes grab the cable and pull it off the desk/nightstand. This would protect the phone from damage. Just replace the qi charger or port if it gets damaged. Far cheaper and easier than a phone.

thardy2 (author)Korishan2017-11-26

The phone will fall just the same if the charger cord gets pulled off a table. Aligning a phone to the charger coil to get it to start charging is irritating.
freedom? Can you use your phone while it's charging wirelessly? I can use my phone while it's connected to my 6 foot cord.

Korishan (author)thardy22017-11-27

This is easily accomplished by having a fixed cradle to hold the phone in the right location. If someone is doing this kind of DIY to their phone, then I hope they have the ability to make the charging pad have borders on it so the phone sits exactly where it needs to be.

Falling off the nightstand/table and getting damaged is the micro-usb connector. If the phone gets yanked by the cord enough times, it will cause the port to fail. Wireless changing gets around this by not using the port.

Yes, you can charge your phone and talk while on the wired cable. No problem. That's not the point here. If you have cradle that you set your phone on when at the desk, in the car, next to the bed, and that's where it stays when not in use, why do you need to be tethered to a cord while talking? It's always charged up.

Just because 'you' have problems getting a phone to align to the charging pad doesn't mean someone else will. I didn't have any issues with mine at all. Nor does my uncle. Nor does several other people I know have issues with placing the device properly on the charger.

Peanut Boy (author)thardy22017-11-27

If you have had trouble with alignment it is probably due to too much separation. Anything over 3-4 mm will cause problems. I spend less time aligning my phone than I would messing with wires.

And yes you can use it while charging. Of coarse a slanted charging platform would make it easier. The wireless charging is connected to the same wires in the phone as a corded charger.

RaymondR6 (author)thardy22017-11-26

It is very difficult to replace a micro USB charge port because I have done this to several tablets (which are bigger and easier to work with). Now I am using a micro USB connector and removable magnetic cable (Volta) on them because they are too big for wireless charging. No more soldering needed!

thardy2 (author)RaymondR62017-11-26

I've opened several phones. I've never needed to change a charging board but they aren't hard to change by any means.

I'd like one of the magnetic charger cords. They're neat and will keep dust out of the charger port.

RaymondR6 (author)thardy22017-11-27

For all those who need a better way to charge without having to open their smartphones at all, or risk damaging their charge ports, I recommend the "Volta" magnetic charge cables and connectors:

I have all my tablets, two Chromebooks, and my Samsung phone with them. The magnets are super-strong! I can pick up my phones or smaller tablets by the cord and it will not drop. The magnets also guide themselves to the connectors so I can attach the cables in the dark. The cable head also have a tiny LED to help you see them in low lighting and prove that the cable has power.

There are many magnetic cable makers (I bought other brands), but the Voltas are the best.

Peanut Boy (author)thardy22017-11-26

Personal preference, keep the port open for other uses and not wanting to mess with cords. And yes the Type-C is supposed to be more durable, but I question how durable any mechanical connection can be. I did not know of the Magnetic charging connectors that others have mentioned, however, I still like the idea of keeping the port open, though I have to admit it may not be of great value.

As to a daughter board, there is not one. The port is soldered directly to the mother board and has over 24 solder points. There was another phone I considered (G5) for the very reason it had a daughter board, but disassembly was not as straight forward. IMO a phone that can be taken apart can be repaired even if dropped in water.

Thank you for your comments. There is always a lot of choices to be made. The V20 was my choice. I noted when trying to find out how to add wireless charging that no one had published V20 specifics, so I decided I would.

thardy2 (author)Peanut Boy2017-11-26

That makes sense in that case. All the phones I've ever worked on had a daughter board.

GermánB15 (author)2017-11-28

Please, I would want to see the squematic of the wireless charger if you could share it with us.


Peanut Boy (author)GermánB152017-11-28

I don't have a schematic of the charger or the phone. Sorry. I just made sure I had the right polarity. The reciever board was marked with a "+" & "-".

GermánB15 (author)Peanut Boy2017-11-28

Ahh okeyy!! Thank you

PandaLion98 (author)2017-11-26

If the phone is plugged into USB (e.g. on a laptop), what happens when you charge wirelessly at the same time?

RaymondR6 (author)PandaLion982017-11-26

The wired USB charger will operate better. But don't do both anyway. It is a waste of energy. You can add a transmitter base to your car, mounted on a space of the center console so you can just lay your phone down for wireless charging. I added this to my 2009 Chevy Equinox for my Samsung Galaxy S4, well before any can manufacturer decided to add this as a sales option or standard feature.

PandaLion98 (author)RaymondR62017-11-26

I see. I was more concerned about it causing damage. People will inevitably forget that charging wirelessly and plugging in via USB (e.g. to transfer files) isn't a good mix.

Basically, the two power sources will "fight". Over time, one will "win" and break stuff.

Korishan (author)PandaLion982017-11-26

Not really, as this is DC, not AC. Secondly, the only thing that would fail would be diodes, possibly, but I'm sure they have a high enough reverse voltage protection to protect the circuitry. After all, it's gotta protect from a fully charged battery from backfeeding.

It'd be the same principle as connecting a 9V battery in parallel to two 18650 (4.2V fully charged each) that are connected in series (giving 8.4V). Just because they have a slight voltage difference, they don't have enough to "fight" each other.

Again, I think the forward voltage of the diodes would be far strong enough to protect the circuitry.

PandaLion98 (author)Korishan2017-11-26

I beg to differ. PSUs and batteries are way too different to make comparisons. Some PSUs can be connected in parallel, and some will fail catastrophically in the long term.

Korishan (author)PandaLion982017-11-27

From the stackexchange link you provide: "Even connecting two power supplies of the SAME voltage together is not typically recommended because here in the Real World, they are never EXACTLY the same voltage. Ways around this include using diodes to isolate the power supplies from each other. Or using low-value resistors to provide a "buffer" between each supply and the load."

And from quora link: "by using diode gating several otherwise unsuitable power supplies can be paralleled, for redundancy if not load sharing. The one with the fractionally highest voltage will back-bias the other diodes, and take the lion’s share of the load"

Sooooo, as I said, "DIODES" would protect both the charging coil and the USB power supply.

thardy2 (author)PandaLion982017-11-26

I don't think you can. It'd charge off the wireless and use data over the USB.

unitedkingdomliam (author)2017-11-27

Very interesting will try it when I get back to England. I am in Poland at the moment.

DumbodoreL made it! (author)2017-11-27

hey I made it

Peanut Boy (author)DumbodoreL2017-11-27

How did the solder job work out. A picture of solder job and finished product would be nice. Glad you were able to do it!

DumbodoreL (author)DumbodoreL2017-11-27

wait the picture ain’t working

VincentJ2 (author)2017-11-27

I like this instructable. I think your next one should be how to beef up your charging base so it charges faster. I haven't looked at how the current ones are done but I've had good luck with using PWM to drive a push-pull which in turn controls the duty cycle on a high power MOSFET. I've gotten 5 watts on the remote side. Obviously I'm using larger windings but with something like a copper clad ribbon cable it might work.

flyonthesky66 (author)2017-11-26

Hi Peanut Boy. Compliments on a well written project. At some future date I will try your suggestions. Not wishing to tell you how to solder to a printed cct; BUT there is a simple answer to your problem?........(1) use wire with a heat resistant cover.......or.......(2) cover the existing PVC wire with a suitable length of shrink sleeve, before you solder.

graydog111 (author)2017-11-26

Great project & instructable Peanut Boy. Doing that proves you have more guts than I do. Also better eyesight, LOL

Seriously, I would like to try that, but I would ruin my iPhone. The only thing I don't like about the iPhone is not having a battery that's easy to replace.

MillennialDIYer (author)2017-11-22

One thing to also keep in mind is that with wireless charging, efficiency is typically 80% at best, so besides slow charging your also wasting quite a bit of electricity as heat. Hopefully the technology gets better quick.

Due to the massive airgap between the 2 induction coils, efficiency will always be poor.

Korishan (author)2017-11-26

Really neat project. I plan on doing something very similar to this with my tablet. I have a Dell Venue Pro 11. The back comes off very easily as it's basically a laptop in tablet form.

But the major problem I need to over come is that it can charge in either 5V @ 1-2A, or it can charge at 19V @ 2A (when using it's specific USB charger). So, what I plan on doing is taking 4 of the Qi chargers and connect them into series to give me ~20V @ 1A. That should allow me to charge about 1/2 the speed of what the charger can do (I hope).

I'm going to make a custom holder that has the chargers in it (so it's oriented correctly) and have it in my truck console. I'll do an Instructable (as I'll be doing a Youtube as well) on it.

I was thinking of connecting the receivers up like you demonstrated above. I was wondering if it would work; especially with being able to connect a micro-USB device into the port with the receivers connected. I now know it's a lot more safer than I originally thought :)

Thanks for the write up, greatly appreciated it.

offtherails2010 (author)2017-11-23

Fantastic Instructable - Well Done !!

i'm a huge fan of wireless charging but as MillennialDIYer stated, efficiency isnt great, yet, so in a world now consumed with trying to use less electricity (for lower bills & lower harm to the planet !) maybe to use a solar panel to charge a powerbank then use the powerbank to charge your devices wirelessly


This'll then be free electricity with lower bills and harm to our world :)


Also would you be able to link where you got the Wireless Parts please please, be very grateful if you could :)


Once again, FANTASTIC instructable - very well written, great info, in depth details, AWESOME Close-Up photo's and beautiful soldering to the points, SMD Soldering ain't hard - just goes to show, ANYONE can do it, within reason haha :)

This is the receiver I used:

Awesome ! thanks loads for that, again well done with your instructable, keep up the excellent work :)

offtherails2010 (author)2017-11-23

EDIT: Also using Enamel-Coated MAGNET-Wire, you could get more intricate wiring done as these are super thin, just make sure they can handle the current :)

Swansong (author)2017-11-22

That's a neat setup :)

About This Instructable




Bio: Retired aerospace engineer with degree in Physics. Enjoy all things technical and like to hike in the Rockies.
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