Step 6: Adding Everything into a Project Box


1. Once you have tested and everything works ok, add all of the bits into a project box.

2. Drill a hole in the project box and stick the wires out that will join up to the launcher.

3. Connect the project box to your device – in my case it was the launcher.

4. Test.
What is the range? I need something which will transmit reliably at least 600ft/182.88m.
They go about 100 metres (300 feet) but you could probablly find one on ebay that might go 600 ft.)
<p>My experience with the ones off ebay is that the range kinda sucks if the circuit it's connected to generates any RF of it's own, or creates noise on the power bus and you are powering the receiver from the same power source. If they are isolated and there's no interference around the receiver, they are OK.</p>
Ok, thanks.
If you have an old cellphone you can add a small circuit that will activate when someone calls it. Just block all numbers exept the one you call it with.
<p>I am 17 years old. I came across (Inherited) a significant amount of money a couple of weeks ago, and I am trying to connect a remote to the speakers in my house. they are battery powered and should work but I'm not very good with this sort of stuff. You mentioned that you had an Ebay account? If you could build a couple of these and sell them on Ebay you could make a small amount of cash and get your product out there. :) if this is not possible, is there any way to do this without a soldering iron or solder? (Heat == Bad)</p>
<p>You would need to provide more details about exactly what you are trying to do, but I create custom PC Boards and circuits. Let me know what you are trying to do and what your price range is for project from start to finish.</p><p>I recently added wireless remote function to my 8X8X8 LED Cube Controller boards.</p><p>See example here:</p><p>http://www.instructables.com/id/CHRs-8X8X8-LED-Cube-Revisited-with-improvements/step19/ANNOUNCING/</p>
hey there, <br>Yep you won't have an issue. All you need to make sure is to rig up the 12V (18V if you use 2 9V batteries), separately to the 6V that the wings take. Have a look at step 3 and you will see a drawing on how to do this. <br> <br>Good luck
I'm a complete novice about electronics and wiring, but these instructions are fantastic! I want to try it on this project that I want to do. I have toy wings that retract when you press a button and it takes 4AA batteries (6V). Will this work if the receiver takes 12V?
Great Instructable. As to the accent, I'm not offended one bit. Like they say, &quot;Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.&quot; I'm a Yank, and even I am guilty of imitating the US southern accent on occasion. It's unavoidable, actually. :-) <br> <br>Anyway, to my point: I made an air-powered potato launcher that also uses an 18V sprinker valve, and it seems to trigger just fine with one 9V battery. I wonder if the remote might also run on 9V? <br> <br>Thanks again for posting this Instructable.
Thanks man - I love the US southern accent; it's one of the easiest and at the same time one of the hardest accents to do! Mine was terrible ; ) <br> <br>In regards to using a 9v, I also used one on my air compressed rocket but I found that once the power started to go on the battery it wouldn't trigger the switch in the sprinkler valve once it was pressurized - do you also have that probllem? I would think that the relay in the receiver would probablly work ok with 9v.
In the diagram in step 3 you show the batteries as connected in parallel but later it's shown in series. This may confuse someone not very familiar with electronics. I'd suggest adding a note or changing the diagram.
I'll get the schematic sorted - nice spotting!
The link for the remote and receiver seems to have been a one-time eBay offer which has ended. Is this hardware still available?
sorted - the link should be fine now. Thanks.
The fake American accent is kind of insulting but not that big of a deal. I know it's already been said but a radio remote to set off a rocket is extremely dangerous.
It was suppost to be a parody of dodgy 1970's adverts. Didn't mean to insult anyone but southern American accents are bloody hard to do if your Australian. <br> <br>In regards to safety - I added a switch to the transmitter which means it can't be triggered by mistake and no-one is even close to the rocket before the air chamber is pressurized.
Although it is a cool project for other applications.
In step 3, the wiring diagram for the batteries shows them in parallel. This is probably an error. In step 4, the photo shows the batteries wired in series to make 18V. <br>
Cheers - I'll get this sorted
Your schematic shows the batteries in parallel, for 9V, but the photos and text talk about them in series for 18V. Might confuse someone trying to copy your results.
Cool - thanks for the heads-up. I'll sort out the schematic.
Thanks a million my friend, I bought one of these a while ago and had no idea on how to make it work.
My pleasure. Hope it helps
Thanks for posting! What if someone else within 100 meters has a remote on the same channel? I think it could be dangerous to use unsecured wireless for something like a rocket launch, even an air rocket. <br> <br>I wonder if you couldn't also adapt one of the cheap wireless doorbells?
Theres always the chance - but I'd hazzard a guess and say that there isn't around the area that I live! I have also put a safety switch on the transmitter so it doesn't just suddenly go off.
By the way, although the auction for the remote mentioned has expired, if someone wants to find a similar switch, then search eBay for &quot;12V Remote Control Switch&quot;, you'll find many options including one similar to the one posted. You'll want the ones that say, &quot;Non Lock&quot;, which equals &quot;momentary&quot; (the switch only makes contact while the remote button is pressed).
I found these remote controlled switches are quite useful. You can get ones that run off 12V and others that can be powered from the mains. I have one connected to a 20W LED floodlight that will switch 10A at 250VAC (mains here) and has a range of about 200 metres (some have a range of 1 km - most are 20-50m). It is so I can switch the light on in my carport as I approach the house. My sensor light switches off sometimes too quickly on the occasions where I need more time. I can also switch the light on if I hear something in the carport.
This gives me some Interesting ideas. Im disappointed (not lonesoulsurfer's fault) that there it wasn't actually a leather case covering the remote. Don't know why such a thing interests me.
Do you use the ires leading out of it as the switch to control your invention
I believe the switch is in the box. When the transmitter is pressed it turns on the switch (relay) which provides the voltage to launch the rocket.
The wires coming out of the box are from the receiver. These are joined-up to whatever you want to turn on with the remote (transmitter)
hah i made one of those but mine was 6 ch and we made a rc car with a flamethrower
Haha slightly off on the American accent, but a very good attempt. Nice instructable, I may use this soon!
My fog machine use a Remote very similar to this one.

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Bio: I've always liked pulling things apart - it's the putting back together again that I have some issues with.
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