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I have a small tractor and I wanted to use it to level my wife's riding ring and level the community golf course sand greens. Both these required first roughing and loosening the surface then dragging the surface level. I developed this harrow and smoothing and leveling attachment to fit on the three point hitch. I wanted to make the implement adjustable so that I could both harrow and level without changing the gear.

Materials

  • 8 feet of 4"x6"x3/4"angle iron
    8 feet of 4"x3"x3/4"angle iron
  • 6 feet of 2"x2"x1/4" angle iron
  • 20 rail bolts salvaged from track bed
  • heavy duty adjustable three point hitch attachment

Tools

  • Welder
  • Metal Bandsaw
  • cutting torch

Step 1: Building the Frame

I wanted to have one piece of equipment that I could easily change from a scarifying harrow action to a leveling action. I also wanted the scarifying process to loosen the surface to a depth of about three inches.

I found two pieces of large angle iron at the local salvage yard; a 13' long piece of 4" x 6" by 3/8 and a 7' piece of 8" by 4" by 1/2.

I cut the 13' piece into two at 14", two at 24" leaving a 6"3 piece. I welded the two 24" pieces across the two longer pieces, 18" apart centered on the longer pieces. These angle iron sections secured both the harrow and level sections of the implement.

Step 2: Building the Leveler

The leveling bar needed to contain material and distribute it in a uniform level. I used the 4" by 8" by 1/2" angle iron cut a foot off each end cut out a section so that it would bend forward then re welded the sections back on the the main bar. This contains material as the implement is dragged forward, reducing the material that spills out the edges of the leveler.

Step 3: The Adjustable Frame Design

The frame for the attachment needed to tip so that the harrowing function would be in play when tipped forward and the leveling function when tipped back. The tipping action would occur when the three point hitch attachment is lengthened or shortened. To do this, a tripod structure lifts the connector above the frame so that the change in connector length tips the frame.

I used the two 14" sections, welding them onto the 24" sections that held the two longer pieces in place. I cut bevels on the ends of these two pieces so they fit together and were tied into a shout section of 3"x3" x 3/8" tubular steel. I cut one face from the 6" section of this piece and drilled a 3/4" to tie the adjustable three point hitch connector.

I then drilled 1" holes for the three point hitch lower bars and drilled these so a pin could keep the bars in place while the implement was in use. I used two of the railway bolts, cut the head off welded a nut inside the frame and threaded the bolt onto the nut which was then welded in place.

Step 4: Construction of the Harrow

To make the harrow, I used railway bolts found along the rail track. These bolts are 6" long and 1" thick. I welded these bolts on the 4" side of the angle iron sat 4" spacing so that 2" of the bolts extends below the edge of the angle iron. When tipped forward, the harrow are presses into the material by the weight of the implement.

The harrow section is nearest the tractor so leveling can distribute the disturbed material.

Step 5: Using the Implement

The implement can easily be adjusted by simply shortening or lengthening the threaded top connecting bar.

<p>this is just what I was looking for. we had some dozer work done and since it has rained it has washed trenches thru out and someone said you need a harrow. well now I know what it is and can easily make it. thanks a million</p>
<p>cool</p>

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