If you ever get your car stuck in soft sand, snow, or mud, there's an easy way to get out. Just let air out of your tires til they're at about 10 or 15 psi. They'll have a nice big flat spot on the bottom, won't sink in nearly as much, and you'll drive right out. The military think this is such a useful trick that many military vehicles are equipped with gadgets that can drain and fill the tires from inside the cab. On Cape Cod there are still some beaches you're allowed to drive on. At the entrance to one such beach is a shed with an air compressor and a sign telling you why to flatten your tires a bit.
Without such a convenience but with a couple 100psi tanks of air in your trunk, you can refill your tires quickly after you're done driving on the beach.
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They will have pumped out all but a few molecules of nasty gas using trade school magic.
Make sure it's a really empty one by using your own brain.
Otherwise teenage nerds will heavily criticize these instructions.
Get your fittings and put them all together. You'll probably have your own scheme in mind which will be different from mine.
Wrap the threaded parts with teflon tape before assembling to seal the threads. If you don't have teflon tape use a strip from a plastic shopping bag.
Attach your hose to the tank with a hose clamp.






































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I have a small (1/5 HP) compressor that I use for airbrushing. Being that it has no tank, fine lines drawn with the brush tend to be dashed, if you will, due to the pulsing of the pump. The pump is a diaphragm type, so it's not as bad as a piston type would be, but I would like to add a tank to eliminate all skipping entirely.
My question is this: has anyone ever (or just know how to) converted a propane tank for use as a compressor tank, as opposed to a portable air tank? If so, how would one go about such a thing?
I realize that a small compressor with a tank can be bought cheaply, and if this project takes much more of my time, I will pony up the cash, but my slightly twisted mind thinks that it may be fun to make my own. Plus, I've already bought a conversion kit for a freon tank, (which, of course, are much harder to come by than propane...duh)
Thanks for any help you may be able to give!
1 - this is a high pressure container, way above 175psi. (over 10x 175psi)
2 - a normal compressor stores air
3 - repaint and mark as 'air only'
4 - there is exactly the same thing as sold commercially in the USA and other countries.
5 - Make sure ALL other connections to the bottle are able to handle the pressure up to 175psi.
6 - if it was illegal to transport a filled container "How do you get your LP Gas bottle home for the BBQ?" - IT'S not illegal to transport air either.
Scuba tanks are much higher pressure than this and you can leave them in the sun (not recommended for any pressurized container) as they are designed with safety factors for stupid people.
Because it is illegal in any way or some way, is not going to stop them, better to get them to think about it and know it is relatively safe to do.
The original product would be filled to a much higher pressure than if it was water or air. So if the container was labeled correctly and contained the item labeled is likely to be okay.
NOT advocating filling it with LP Gas!!
Maybe you do not realize that the PET plastic Coke bottles are rated to 150+PSI
and that the average home compressor will not fill above 110 psi - so the kids could use a plastic Coke bottle as an air reserve.
But that would be wrong also under DOT wouldn't it?
Have a nice day please :-)
As for checking if there is refrigerant in the tank (including propane - which happens to be a refrigerant :P)... pour some hot water on the side of the tank. The area that remains warm is "empty" space. Areas that cool off fast have refrigerant -- a google search will give you a lot more information as to why this can be done.
As for flammable remnants.... there's only remnants if you leave them... its up to you to clean out the tank and get rid of the mercaptan (a stinky gas added for detection), which will stay behind even after LPG has been removed. This is why I say, if you let it be scary - it's gonna be scary (as with most things). http://www.instructables.com/ex/i/E1833EF3E58A1027A8C7BE5FA20C578F - uses an emptied propane (LPG) for their air powered bike :P
DOT-39 NRC 260/325 M9701
DOT-39 - Non re-usable cylinder
NRC
260 - Service pressure
325 - Test pressure (The minimum test pressure is the maximum pressure of contents at 130 °F or 180 p.s.i.g. whichever is greater.)
M9701 - Manufacturer's registration number.
This data is for the tank that I have now which is an R-12 (yikes bad for the environment)
got these info from this page:
http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/49CFR/Docs/wcd0000a/wcd00aee.asp
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?q=freon+air+tank+-airsoft&hl=en&btnG=Search
these seem to include a Schrader valve fill port, Schrader air chuck, pressure gauge, air hose, and <b> relief valve </b>. MPJA.com seems to have 'em for $8 plus shipping. Lots of ebayers out there too.