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This mod to my airarms S200 was acomplished with little more than a drill, a router and a few hand tools.

Design criteria:-

1) As few mods to the gun as possible (I got it down to 3 wood screws)
2) Easy to adjust (1screw with a spring to return)
3) It must stay in alignment (After fitting I have never needed to readjust it)
4) It must look like part of the gun

Pic 1 before
Pic 2 after

Step 1: Off the Shelf

Like a lot of air gun shooters, as soon as I saw laser sights for sale I had to have one. What I purchased was a small black module with a choice of mounts, dovetail and scope rings, it contained a <5mw red laser a couple of button batteries and piece of wire with a pressure switch on the end.

.I first mounted it on top of the scope lined it up with the 3 fiddly little screwdriver slot screws put it in the soft case and went shooting. As soon as it was out of the cover I could see that the laser had moved…….I will not bore you with all the ways I tried to make this useable.

Step 2: I Can Do Better!

I realised the only way to get something workable was to make it myself. I had a good rifle to start on as the fore end of the S200 is flat, the perfect place to fit a laser.

I only used the red laser once and was not impressed, I could hardly see it in daylight so this mod needed a green laser.
so I purchased one like this.

Step 3: The Rest of the Parts

Block of Ash wood (nearest to correct colour I could find)
Black anodised 2mm aluminium (back panel from something I took apart)
Spring from a battery holder
Various 4mm screws and bolts
Cover from a pushbutton
½” fuel pipe clip
Other odds and ends

Step 4: Mount for Laser and Woodwork

I attached the fuel pipe clamp to the front of the laser with a pile of small washers each side for the pivot.

The button knob was stuck to a small square of aluminium.


I then cut the wooden block to the width of the fore end , length of the laser plus an inch and depth of laser plus ¾”.
I then marked out the centreline of the block and routed out a slot to be a tight fit on the laser, re-routed the middle section so that the laser was only tight at the front and back.
The pivot cross slot was cut to exactly the height and width of the pivot washers.

Other cuts were done for the trapped nuts each side at the front and for the adjuster at the bottom of the slot at the back.

A fixing plate was recessed into the top face at the back to slip over the wood screw in the fore end..

A hole was drilled in the side, opposite the push button on the laser and the diameter of the push button knob.

The piece of spring sits on the top of the laser and holds it down onto the adjustor.

Step 5: Adaptor to Fit Gun

I then cut a plate from the aluminium that screwed on the front of the block slipped over the air tank and was a good fit to the barrel.
pic 3 shows front plate trial fitted and rear fixing screw on the fore end.

Step 6: Final Assembly

The new fore end is keyhole slotted on at the back with 2 screws at the front that hold it secure.
second photo shows it working :)

Step 7: Adjustment and Use

Once the mod was finished setting up was a breeze, as I had mounted it perfectly straight first time no sideways adjustment was required. I set the elevation to centre the dot in the scope at 30m…I discovered that as the laser was mounted so far from the scope I could use it for rangefinding, a bonus!
The graph above shows the distances for each dot on the mildot scope.

I have shot targets from the hip with this! The laser point is so easy to see even in bright sunlight.
I have never had to adjust it or replace the battery in 3 years use.
so where did u get that graph. I've been looking for one like it. This was exactly what I was looking for. Job well done!<br>
I set the rifle up in a clamp then fired at a target, noted the laser position and pellet hole, then moving the target 5m further away between shots recorded my two series of data. <br>It is neat isn't it! :) It makes rangefinding a doddle. <br> <br>Regards rog8811
This is very cool, for the daytime. Now let me share a little project I did when I needed to eradicate some raccoons during near total darkness, as it was very similar to what you did here:<br><br>Instead of using a 'daylight' scope, I used a &quot;Thousand Trails TM&quot; night vision hand held 'starlight' scope that had no reticle and retailed for about $125. I then attached (using screws and epoxy) a rail mount to the scope so that I could attach it to the rifle (a CAR15). I then installed a weak red laser (so don't throw away your original) which became the reticle for the night scope (as you could see it quite clearly through the scope) and to help enhance the image in total darkness, I also added a &quot;Surefire&quot; high intensity flashlight with an IR filter made of 2X blue, 2Xgreen and 2X red filters from the old &quot;bent neck&quot; US military flashlights.<br><br>Let's just say that the 'varmints' are now history.<br><br>I hope you can use this little bit of info for your next firearm project.

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Bio: Woodsman and field tutor on a week day. Life long inventor, designer, engineer for the rest of the time. From items that make life easier ... More »
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