Disclaimer: The author is not responsible for any injuries related to or having to do with this device. The author is also not responsible for any property damage caused by this device. Use at your own risk!

Warning: It is specifically against manufacturer recommendations to use PVC to contain pressurized air. These instructions are to be used at your own risk.

Welcome to my attempt at building an anti-aircraft style coaxial PVC launcher. This launcher will be purposed for use in airsoft/military simulation games. The base cannon design was found on another site and I see that the creator also has an instructable posted here. Please feel free to follow or reference his instructions just be aware of my modifications to the firing and filling mechanisms.

(2) 3 inch slip coupling
(1) 3 inch x 2 inch reducer
(1) 2 inch slip x 1 inch female threaded reducer
(1) 3 inch x 2 inch flush reducer
(1) 3 inch slip to male thread adapter
(1) 3 inch slip to female thread adapter
(1) 3 foot section of 3 inch schedule 40 PVC piping
(1) 3 foot section of 2 inch schedule 40 PVC piping
(1) 3 foot section of 1.5 inch schedule 40 PVC piping
(1) 3 inch tank to bowl washer (for toilet)
(2) 3 inch steel gas vent T caps
(1) Rainbird 1 inch in-line sprinkler valve
(1) 3/8 inch hose barb to 1/4 inch threaded brass fitting
(2) 1/4 90 degree male to female brass fitting
(2) 1/4 hose barb to 1/4 threaded adapter brass fitting
(1) 1/4 inch brass schrader valve
(1) 160 PSI gauge with 1/4 inch bottom fitting
(3) 1 inch steel self-tapping screws
(1) Sheet of rubber
(2) Small screws
(1) 1.5 Feet of 6x2 cedar
(1) Airgun
(1) ~3 Feet of 1/4 air hose pressure rated to at least 200psi
(2) Small hose clamps for the air hose
(4) 5 inch pipe bands
(1) 4 inch pipe band
(*) Plastic bonding spray paint
(*) Teflon thread tape
(*) Epoxy
(*) PVC Primer/Solvent
(*) PVC Cement
(*) Thread Paste w/ TFE

(1) Small hinge
(1) Small clasp
(*) Decals
(*) Acrylic paint: Green, Yellow, Red

Bench Grinder
Hack saw
Masking or painters tape
Cordless drill
Various drill bits
Screw drivers
Strap wrenches
Jig saw
Miter saw
Wood clamps

Step 1: Rear of Launcher Chamber

Lets get started on the rear of the launcher chamber. If you've never worked with solvent welding/PVC cementing please do some research or perhaps start with a simpler project for your first go. As always please use care to ensure proper ventilation when working with PVC solvent and cement.

PVC Solvent Welding quick tips:
a. Coat both pieces with the PVC primer, cover the areas where they will be joined.
b. Before the primer dries, coat the socket with a thin layer of cement.
c. Before the primer dries, coat the pipe or fitting that will be going into the socket
d. Apply another thin layer of cement to the socket.
e. Quicky join the pieces, try to rotate them a quarter turn as you join them to ensure a good seal.
f. Hold them togther snugly for about 30 seconds to prevent them from pushing out/apart
g. You can handle the parts after about an hour, takes about 8 hours to fully cure/dry in 50-80F, longer in colder temperatures

1. Weld the 3 inch to 2 inch reducer into one end of the 3 inch slip coupling.
2. Weld the 2 inch slip to 1 inch female thread reducer into the 2 inch slip opening.
<p>can i just buy this lol from u</p>
<p>How is the piston mounted in the pipe? I can't figure out what the function for it is and exactly where it needs to be. I am attempting to upgrade a set of launchers my group has and this build looks to be what we need. Help is appreciated for that step.</p>
<p>It's &quot;free floating&quot; in the chamber. Best way to put it. The goal is to have it fit close to snug but not too snug. Air needs to pass around the edges of the piston when filling since the tank essentially is around the barrel. The piston gets pressed up against the section of barrel that extends into the chamber and the pressure of the chamber holds it &quot;closed&quot;. Then once the sprinkler valve is opened (exhaust) the air to the rear of the piston escapes faster out the rear of the chamber and the air in front of the piston pushes the piston back and the air in the tank then escapes out the barrel. Basically the volume of air behind the piston needs to escape quickly enough or faster than the air in the tank can seep back around the piston and is therefore forced to push the piston back instead.</p>
Can I get som questions answered regarding this build?
I can try, it was a while ago. Go for it!
<p>I can't wait to build one of these and take it to the paintball field. I'd shoot a shotgun load of paintballs to take out as many people as possible. We won't be losing another game!</p>
<p>now that's an awesome launcher!</p>
<p>This is absolutely brilliant, and I appreciate you posting an instructable on this. I have been wanting to have an RPG available for airsoft games, and I think this is just the one I want. Thanks!</p>
<p>This is not spam, but a warning. PVC will fail suddenly after a while. This was band member that hurt badly by a T-Shirt launcher explosion.</p><p>See the pictures and never use PVC to hold air, Please.</p><p><a href="https://fundrazr.com/campaigns/1Zs3c" rel="nofollow">https://fundrazr.com/campaigns/1Zs3c</a><br>..</p>
There are lots of factors that could cause PVC to fail. Anyone using PVC in such a manner as depicted in this instructable should do research beforehand and assume all risk.
Link for the air gun?
Don't have one. I just picked up the air gun at a local discount tool store.
I love the stark industries label!
How much did you spend on this?
Really really rough estimate: $200ish.
What is the rough cost of building this? I know depending on store, location, and brand, the final price may vary. I think the Anti-Air Launcher would be pretty neat to add to my arsenal of different launchers ^__^
My guesstimate would be so rough I'm not sure its of any value. I'd say in the neighborhood of $200.
ideal backup for running recon... pistol? nah rpg baby
hehehe like the Stark logo
heh same <br>
A very nice build, except to use this in Airsoft would be pretty dangerous. <br>
Well we will obviously keep the PSI within reason enough for it to remain safe. I may add a pressure safety valve so it can't be pressurized over a certain point.

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