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Built this workbench to maximize my work area in the garage. I wanted lots of tool storage with power built in and a table saw outfeed table. It had to be movable

Step 1: Start With Lumber and a Sketch

I started with a trip to the big orange store.15-2x4
2-4x4
4-1x2 pine strips
2 sheets of cabinet grade 3/4
3" wood screws
Epoxy paint and primer
Wood stain.

I then drew a sketch of what I wanted

Step 2: Practice Your Joints.

I took some scrap wood and practiced the joints I wanted to you. I used half laps so I set my sliding compound saw to the depth I needed and made lots of cuts next to each other

Step 3: Start Cutting Wood

Start cutting your frame work. Make sure you test each joint as you go

Lots of cutting here

Step 4: Assemble

Assemble all the framing components. Make sure everything is square

I used wood glue and 3 inch wood screws here

Step 5: Add Casters

I added caster to make it easier to move around

Step 6: Cleaned Up Joints and Add Power

Next I cleaned up the joints using wood filler and added electrical boxes under the table. I worked the 4 electrical boxes together then wire a cut off extension cord to the last box to plug into the wall.

Step 7: Prime Bench and Stain Top

Next I primed the bench with kills primer and stained the top of the bench.

Step 8: Put in the Sun to Dry

Drying.....

Step 9: Paint

I wanted a strong finish so I used a oil based epoxy paint. 3 coats

Step 10: Add Lower Shelfing

For this is used 2x6 lumber. I cut it all to fit them removed and stained it before screwing it down with pocket holes from the bottom

Step 11: Make Edge Trim

I made edge trim to hide the plywood edges. I but to size, mite red the corners and stained them. I used pocket screws to attach them

Step 12: Lower Shelf

Made the lower shelf the same way, cut, stained , edge trim, then pocket hole to attach

Step 13: Finish With Polyurethane to Protect Finish

Used 3 coats of polyurethane to protect the top surface

Step 14: Load It Up With Tools

Got all my stuff put on it
<p>Good design and it is very easy for new woodworkers, and I used different type of plans for my customer, and one of the woodworking forum I download few different plans and I used for my customer and they like it, If anyone looking for different woodworking plans contact at ( lutherking1912@gmail.com )<br>I can share my plans</p>
<p>So strong with usefull</p>
<p>Well-bethought project, and beautifully executed. Thank you for posting!</p>
<p>Looks good. Not a big fan of the table saw part cantilevering like that. im sure it is more than fine just little personal preference on my part. how long you think the finish on the top will last?</p>
<p>Look at the mass of the rest of the table. Then consider that the center<br> of the mass over that cantilevered section is only about 12&quot; <br>from the closest support point, and you'll realize that your concerns <br>are unnecessary.</p>
You could always place wheels under the table saw but I haven't had a issue yet. The poly should last a few years. You can always sand it with 220 and add another coat to make it look new again
im sure you wont ever have a problem it looks very stout. I was just wondering about the top. me and a buddy are looking into building close to the same thing but have been looking at using Melamine for the top
<p>I have a tendency to lean on my workbench and i'm afraid that, even with locking casters, the bench will still move when I don't want it to. Do you see any movement when the casters are locked? I was thinking i'd use something like these. (Inspired by the movable stairs at Home Depot)</p><p></p>
<p>Beautiful bench, great build. How easily does it roll? Do you find yourself moving it around or is it too heavy fully loaded? </p><p>Separately, how solid is it once it is in place and the wheels are locked? I see you have other benches but for my space I need to mount a vice and I do a lot of hammering and such. I'm considering a detachable pod I can roll up and clamp tight and flush with the top yet sits on the ground. Other than messing up your great surface, do you see any need for such a thing with your build? </p><p>P.S. I do not believe there is any surface within 100 yards of my garage where 6 wheels could touch the ground at one time..</p>
<p>Three wheels is your answer! </p>
<p>I wonder if you could attempt a 3 wheel bench to ensure all 3 contact and a more stable surface. Just use the two wheels at the cutting end. (BTW his is 4 wheels)</p>
<p>Interesting idea on the 3 wheels. I use a 100 year old barn for my garage and I prefer to work outside whenever I can, so I'm thinking I'll need adjustable legs anyway. Still not sure how large I can go and still have it be practical due to weight. Maybe my 3rd wheel should be a motorized dolly ; ).</p><p>Yes, I was referring to someone else's comment that it might need 6 wheels (he said it doesn't, thankfully).</p>
<p>maybe three wheels with simple mounts and a fourth one with some up and down adjustability. That way you have support under all the corners.</p>
<p>Very nice. I've been trying to find an efficient way to take up less space on the jobsite. I am using your design as inspiration to build a portable version. This is an ideal exhibit builders saw station.</p>
<p>&quot;but if you use lots of tolls at once,&quot;</p><p>You will be more likely to injure yourself than blow a fuse! Think about it, the TS has a switch, the MS has a switch, the Jig Saw a sitch, the sander has one as well - how can you have all of them on at once? Or, why?</p>
<p>You could fix spacers to the bottom of each tool so that the out-feed table height would be correct for all of your machines.</p>
<p>Good point! Tools (may) wear out and the replacement may not be identical in every respect to the one it replaces. Of course, the new one might be taller' that the old!</p>
<p>I think that in order for this to be a how o make, you must include the drawing with measurements written on it of every piece of the table from all relevant angles, this includes where you put the screws if the placement is relevant.</p>
<p>Nah, when one is so 'into' woodworking that they have determined a bench of this sort is a necessary addition to their shop, they can be expected to be able to adopt the design and determine requisite measurements from all the excellent images and other details provided. As well, there are a plethora of workbench designs and plans ''out there' that are replete with detailed measurements and plans - just Google 'Free Workbench Plans' - About 5,510,000 results (0.82 seconds)</p><p> <br></p>
<p>I'm just trying to be helpfull by the way</p>
<p>I agree! This turned out amazing but I wish it would be taught/explained more in the Instructable...great job though!</p>
<p>I'm concerned that the notched out joints in steps #2-3 make the 4x4 weak. Have you put much weight on this, or don't any significant pounding? Are my concerns valid?</p>
<p>Actually, these joints increase the over-all strength and stability of the bench. Cut nicely, the fit simply replaces the vertical grain of the leg with the horizontal grain of the stretchers. As the legs are in compression the weight is actually distributed along the stretchers as well as to the wheels below. </p><p>Indeed, the wheels are a weaker point than the jointed areas. There, you have removed sixteen square inches of bearing surface replacing it with the tiny contact area of the wheel supported by the (sq in) bearing assembly of the respective swivel mechanism of the wheel.</p>
Have put over 500lb on it with out issue. I don't foresee it being a issue. The half laps are supported by the 2x4 that runs through them. I believe it will be fine
<p>No measurements?</p>
<p>Measurements!? Well, the bench was made of standard 2x4's and designed to fit the little table saw height and the opening below the top designed to accommodate the tools shown store there. I wouldn't think the exact measurements would serve any particular purpose save for those with the same tools. Table height will depend upon the other 'flat surfaces' in your shop and any other floor-mounted tools you might have. Depth should take into consideration the working depth of the Mitre Saw as well as the slider depth should you have one of those Mitre Saws - not to mention the length of your arms! A 'Standard&quot; size bench dimensions will depend upon the primary work being done. I think the Sojberg (Spelling?) benches are lower and narrower because much of hand-work (planing, and such) depends upon muscle-power and is done 'from above' to take advantage of upper-body strengths.</p>
<p>I agree...just to have a starting point to modify or help understand...</p>
I can add some of my final measurement but it will be subjective to the tools you use and your height. The table is 36in total height. The top piece is 6ft by 40&quot;
<p>I built something similar to house a Radial Arm Saw, 12&quot; Mitre Saw and Router. I set the top for the RAS and Router, then &quot;dropped&quot; a portion of the table (roughly in the center) to house the Mitre Saw so the surface of the mitre saw was in the same plane as the rest of the bench-top. </p><p>Built of 'salvaged' materials - including a Ping Pong Table Top (.75&quot; Plywood) over MDF and covered with .25&quot; Masonite (this layer screwed in place so a to be 'replaceable' should the need arise.</p><p>This approach provided an 8-foot level surface area most convenient for cutting/routing longer materials.</p><p>Lessons learned included the need for a deeper bench to accommodate the RAS (which was built to rest upon a platform that included four LEVELING bolts used to assure the blade was perpendicular to the bench surface and the arm was in the same plane front to back (maintaining depth of cut along the travel of the saw (important when cutting dados and rabbits and such).</p><p>I forgot to design in VISE(s)! Adding them after the first build proved a problem as the should be at opposite ends of the bench (One in front, the other at the end) and right at the respective corners). The design needs to provide for the Vise(s) so the respective legs can be designed with the appropriate offset needed to accommodate the Vise Screws and hardware.</p><p>Although 'pointing' the electrical outlets 'down' makes for a neat appearance, I chose to build them into the face of the apron to make it easier to plug in various tools. ( had other outlets dedicated to the RAS, MItre Saw and Router (which has its own 'foot switch). I also added switches to the outlets along the apron which were part of hard-wired outlet strips so I could cut power w/o un-plugging a tool while changing a blade, bit, etc.</p><p>I also build my shop benches and table to the same height as my Large Table saw so that they might serve as a support for a long board without interfering (because they were too high).</p><p>I also learned to use the space under the table top for Tool Drawers (found some (Free) large drawers after the build that serve much better than a shelf - wish I'd had them on hand when I built the thing! There I built them in with the drawer fronts flush with the table front surface. After a year or so, I decided that was a mistake. So I re-installed them so they wer insert several inches (now backs are flush with the rear of the bench) and no longer collect as much saw dust!</p><p>Your effort is much nicer in appearance! Wheels are a nice (and, in your case apparently necessary addition). I would have suggested a 2x6 for the lower apron so as to provide maximum load-bearing for the cantilevered saw table extension.</p><p>Thank you for sharing your work.</p>
<p>I'm working on building a variation of your instructable and I was wandering what brand of oil based epoxy paint you used? I've checked at the big orange, Lowe's and Ace hardware locally but all they have is cement paint.</p>
I bought the paint from homedepot. It is baer brand paint.
What size casters did you use?
3&quot; 350lb full lock c
I really like your idea of putting a series of outlets inside the work bench. I have been dreading installing multiple outlets on my garage wall. This is easier and would only require one outlet available in the garage.
That was my issue as well. Plus sometimes I roll this outside and work in the driveway so it is nice to not have to run mutilple cords outside. I rarely use more then one tool at a time so I'm not sure I'll experience what the other person was commenting on. This has worked well for me.
<p>but if you use lots of tolls at once, you will most likely trip the circuit a lot, and there will be less power for each tool, reducing the effectiveness of the tool. i thin that if you bite the bullet and do it, you will be able to get something useful out of the deal and also be able to install some 220V outlets for that future quality table saw or other thing that requires A LOT of power to be effective, like an ark welder</p>
<p>Beautiful bench! great build</p>
The table rolls great on the casters I got. The top is 6ft by 40 inch wide. The finished highly is 36&quot; including the casters
<p>Well thought out design. I am now thinking of straightening up the garage!</p><p>Thanks.</p>
<p>Hello Craig;</p><p>I have to echo the comments of others, great job, excellent craftsmanship and stunning finished product. I believe this will serve you well for future DIY projects. I'm curious what the size of the primary work top without the table saw extension? I'll be looking forward to future post from you</p><p>djsmac</p>
<p>nice looking bench. I have made personally a bunch of dollies to stack way too many boxes and crates of hardware and tool boxes around in my way to crowed shop.I did it so I could actually do some work in there I have had to upgrade all the casters to what I would have thought as way over sized but turned out better they work much easier when they are way over sized and I found some used heavy duty ones at a swap meet for very cheap prices (dirt cheap) . I was told once by an engineer I knew along time ago that he would figure all the numbers (tolerances and needed strength) and double them that gave his design a comfortable margin to work with.</p><p>I envy the space you have I am on an alley and can not role it out so I am confined.</p><p>It like what looks like a hard board top too. great work.</p><p>uncle frogy</p>
<p>Very nice build, i could do with one like that myself. Well Done.</p>
<p>Really nice! I'll be building one in about eight months, after the house is finished!</p>
<p>Nice! Have you considered adding a place for the clamps? On my welding table, I attached a piece of channel iron to the side for hanging grinders on. You could, easily, do something similar with your table.</p>
<p>You did a really nice job! Are you experiencing any sag on the table saw platform? I'm thinking maybe 6 casters if I build this. </p><p>Thank you!</p>
<p>I agree on 6 casters for 2 reasons. One is that it will give the table saw platrofm a bit more stability. The other reason is that casters of this size are seldom rated for more than 100 lbs each. I can see how with little effort bench tools and work could easily come to way more than 400 pounds....better to put them on now than wait and have to unload the bench and put them on later.</p>
<p>the casters used are rated to 300 lb each</p>
I have not had any sagging issues with the table saw. So far it is staying square and level. As far as the top it is just double 3/4 that is screwed together. That way it is replaceable with out having to Shane the piece under it
<p>Great job! Thank you for the construction ideas for the frame. I am planning a table similar for my garage/ shop in the near future. </p><p>One question. You did not say much about the construction of the top. Looks like double 3/4 plywood. If so did you just glue together the panels or screw from below or glue and screw? ANd if glue what type?</p>
<p>I love this work bench. Very practical and it teaches how joints make for a strong table. </p>

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