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Step 10Top tube and chainstays
Next you would install the top tube. This is done without the jig and is described in the Paterek manual. I usually use hose clamps as stops to keep the top tube from sliding down.
After that, it's time for the chainstays.
Clamp the bottom bracket to the jig upright so that it rests on the longer face. Pivot it so that it's at the right seat angle, setting it using an angle finder or with protractor measuring to either the face on the upright or the main table.
Since most bottom brackets are 40mm, your centerline of your bottom bracket will be 20 mm above the face. Add that 20mm to your bottom bracket drop and mark that distance on the bar of the dummy axle using a piece of tape. Loosely clamp it at the right height using the mark and measure the chainstay length with your machinist's rule. Adjust fore and aft until you get the right length and firmly clamp it in place.
Now you're ready to add your chainstays. After they're tacked and cooled, double-check the alignment using a true and correctly-dished wheel.
After that, it's time for the chainstays.
Clamp the bottom bracket to the jig upright so that it rests on the longer face. Pivot it so that it's at the right seat angle, setting it using an angle finder or with protractor measuring to either the face on the upright or the main table.
Since most bottom brackets are 40mm, your centerline of your bottom bracket will be 20 mm above the face. Add that 20mm to your bottom bracket drop and mark that distance on the bar of the dummy axle using a piece of tape. Loosely clamp it at the right height using the mark and measure the chainstay length with your machinist's rule. Adjust fore and aft until you get the right length and firmly clamp it in place.
Now you're ready to add your chainstays. After they're tacked and cooled, double-check the alignment using a true and correctly-dished wheel.
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