This Instructable, my entry in the pocket-sized contest, will teach you how to build your own pocket-sized watercolor box.
Remember when you were a kid and had a watercolor box? Well, this is the grownup version of it, with high-quality pigments. The best thing about it is that you can carry it in your pocket since its made with the ubiquitous Altoids tin.
Oh yeah, this is my first Instructable.
Remember when you were a kid and had a watercolor box? Well, this is the grownup version of it, with high-quality pigments. The best thing about it is that you can carry it in your pocket since its made with the ubiquitous Altoids tin.
Oh yeah, this is my first Instructable.
Step 1: Materials
To make this project, you'll need:
Materials
- Altoids Tin (shown in picture)
- White Fimo Clay (shown in picture)
- Cheap white plastic color-mixing palette (shown in picture) - OR - white enamel paint (Krylon spray can or such)
- Your selection of watercolor paints (more on this later)
Tools
- Dremel with cutting wheel attachment (shown in picture)
- Sandpaper (anything along the lines of 80 grit is good)
- Oven or Toaster Oven
- Toothpicks
Materials
- Altoids Tin (shown in picture)
- White Fimo Clay (shown in picture)
- Cheap white plastic color-mixing palette (shown in picture) - OR - white enamel paint (Krylon spray can or such)
- Your selection of watercolor paints (more on this later)
Tools
- Dremel with cutting wheel attachment (shown in picture)
- Sandpaper (anything along the lines of 80 grit is good)
- Oven or Toaster Oven
- Toothpicks
Step 2: Color-Mixing Plate
The mixing plate is the surface where you'll mix your colors while painting. I decided to get mine from a plastic palette I got for a few dollars at my local art supplies store. If you're having a hard time finding something similar, you have a few options: spray the interior of the top lid with white enamel paint or use any thin, white plastic part which has ridges and can fit into the Altoids tin.
Option A) using the plastic palette
- Make sure the section you chose fits in the Altoids tin (the bottom part)
- Using the Dremel, cut slightly larger than the area of interest (see picture).
- Once you've cut it down to shape, clean up the edges with the 80 grit sandpaper. The plastic should be fairly easy to sand away in a few minutes.
The palette I used was made of (I think) polystyrene. This material, when heated, melts but solidifies immediately and the burrs area easy to scratch away. If you use a palette made of other plastics, you might run into problems. Try cutting with a utility knife if you run into that situation
Option B) painting the interior lid with white paint
- Read the instructions on the paint can
- Cover up the other parts of the tin
- Spray
Option C) make your own tray
- Stick to options A or B if you need further instructions ;)
Option A) using the plastic palette
- Make sure the section you chose fits in the Altoids tin (the bottom part)
- Using the Dremel, cut slightly larger than the area of interest (see picture).
- Once you've cut it down to shape, clean up the edges with the 80 grit sandpaper. The plastic should be fairly easy to sand away in a few minutes.
The palette I used was made of (I think) polystyrene. This material, when heated, melts but solidifies immediately and the burrs area easy to scratch away. If you use a palette made of other plastics, you might run into problems. Try cutting with a utility knife if you run into that situation
Option B) painting the interior lid with white paint
- Read the instructions on the paint can
- Cover up the other parts of the tin
- Spray
Option C) make your own tray
- Stick to options A or B if you need further instructions ;)
Step 3: Build up the interior of the paintbox with the Fimo clay
Here, I'm assuming that your color palette is made of 10 colors. Adjust if necessary.
Cover the interior of the box with a thin (about 3mm or 1/4") layer of Fimo. Once you've covered the interior of the box with Fimo, split it in 10 equal parts using strips of fimo. I started by laying a strip lengthwise in the middle of the tin, separating the interior in 2 long compartments. Then, I put four equally-spaced strips of clay to split each half-tray in 5. Do the same for the second half-tray.
Once you're done, you should have 10 compartments of roughly equal size. Don't hesitate to play around with the clay to make sure that the compartments have the same size. It's also important to make sure that the surface is as smooth as possible. It doesn't need to be perfect, but the nicer it is, the better it will perform. Make sure that there aren't any cracks in your construction. The walls you build need to be wider at the bottom and narrower. This will make nice cup-like compartments to hold the paint.
Make sure that you leave enough room on top of the compartments to fit the plastic mixing plate when you close the tin.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures of the building of the interior of the compartment. It's simple enough, this shouldn't cause a problem and you can look at the final result pictures to get the idea.
Cover the interior of the box with a thin (about 3mm or 1/4") layer of Fimo. Once you've covered the interior of the box with Fimo, split it in 10 equal parts using strips of fimo. I started by laying a strip lengthwise in the middle of the tin, separating the interior in 2 long compartments. Then, I put four equally-spaced strips of clay to split each half-tray in 5. Do the same for the second half-tray.
Once you're done, you should have 10 compartments of roughly equal size. Don't hesitate to play around with the clay to make sure that the compartments have the same size. It's also important to make sure that the surface is as smooth as possible. It doesn't need to be perfect, but the nicer it is, the better it will perform. Make sure that there aren't any cracks in your construction. The walls you build need to be wider at the bottom and narrower. This will make nice cup-like compartments to hold the paint.
Make sure that you leave enough room on top of the compartments to fit the plastic mixing plate when you close the tin.
Sorry, I don't have any pictures of the building of the interior of the compartment. It's simple enough, this shouldn't cause a problem and you can look at the final result pictures to get the idea.
Step 4: Bake the Fimo clay
Following the instructions on the package, bake the clay.
In my case, this was half an hour at 265ºF. Yours might be different.
I let it in a few minutes longer, just to be on the safe side. Don't exceed the recommended temperature.
What this does is cure the clay and turn it into a solid piece of polymer plastic. I am not a chemist, but that's my understanding of it.
I used my toaster oven and took it in the basement and opened the windows. I wanted to avoid stinking up the house with potentially toxic fumes. It turned out to be OK.
If your tray dividers crack, they are too thin. You can fix that with epoxy glue after the curing process is done and the thing has cooled down.
An optional step is to apply glossy lacker to protect the clay. It will also make the surface shinier and smoother. I didn't do it and so far, all is good.
In my case, this was half an hour at 265ºF. Yours might be different.
I let it in a few minutes longer, just to be on the safe side. Don't exceed the recommended temperature.
What this does is cure the clay and turn it into a solid piece of polymer plastic. I am not a chemist, but that's my understanding of it.
I used my toaster oven and took it in the basement and opened the windows. I wanted to avoid stinking up the house with potentially toxic fumes. It turned out to be OK.
If your tray dividers crack, they are too thin. You can fix that with epoxy glue after the curing process is done and the thing has cooled down.
An optional step is to apply glossy lacker to protect the clay. It will also make the surface shinier and smoother. I didn't do it and so far, all is good.
Step 5: Transfer the paint into the tray compartments
There are many kinds of watercolor paints. Some are baked into little cakes, some are in the shape of crayons. The ones that interest us here are the watercolors that come in liquid form, in little (expensive) tubes.
The tubes I got were "Holbein Artists' watercolor". These go for about 5$ (or more fore rarer pigments) for a 5ml tube. Expensive. They are decent quality paints though, and I was told they were the "sweet spot" in terms of bang for the buck. If you want to go for cheaper paints, by all means, do so. You can get similar tubes for about 2$ each. You can also get similar tubes for 10$ each, or even 20$ each. Ultimately, it's your call.
Disclaimer: these paints contain various toxic products, which when handled with care, don't pose any danger. These paints are not formulated to be used by children, and should be handled with care.
I decided that 10 colors were enough and I could basically do anything I wanted with them. I chose these. Feel free to use this selection, but bear in mind that my choice is extremely subjective.
I chose 6 primaries (two reds, two yellows and two blues), a secondary (green - because our eyes are very sensible in those wavelengths) and three neutrals:
- Cadnium Yellow (a warm sun-like yellow)
- Gamboge Nova (a.k.a. indian yellow, a yellowish orange)
- Cadnium Red Deep (a firetruck-like red)
- Cadnium Red Purple (somewhat colder than the previous one)
- Raw Umber (a brownish earth tone)
- Hooker's Green (to my eyes, very close to phtalo green - one wonders how that color got it's name)
- Cerulean Blue (sky blue)
- Ultramarine Deep (a darker, colder blue - think bottom of the ocean)
- Payne's grey (a cold bluish gray - If I had to choose a single color, this would be it)
- Burnt umber (a dark earth tone)
How to transfer the paint to the tray:
- To each tray section, one color.
- Squeeze a small bead (about 10% of the tube) into the section. That should be more than enough.
- Add a few drops of water (5-10 drops) to the paint bead.
- using a clean toothpick, mix the water and paint until it forms a thick, uniform liquid of even density, if after mixing it up for a minute it doesn't male a puddle that "flattens", add a few drops of water and keep mixing. When you're done, the toothpick's tip should be barely covered with paint when you remove it from the color mix. If youstill have lumps of paint on it, you're not done or your mix doesn't contain enough water.
- Repeat for each of color.
The tubes I got were "Holbein Artists' watercolor". These go for about 5$ (or more fore rarer pigments) for a 5ml tube. Expensive. They are decent quality paints though, and I was told they were the "sweet spot" in terms of bang for the buck. If you want to go for cheaper paints, by all means, do so. You can get similar tubes for about 2$ each. You can also get similar tubes for 10$ each, or even 20$ each. Ultimately, it's your call.
Disclaimer: these paints contain various toxic products, which when handled with care, don't pose any danger. These paints are not formulated to be used by children, and should be handled with care.
I decided that 10 colors were enough and I could basically do anything I wanted with them. I chose these. Feel free to use this selection, but bear in mind that my choice is extremely subjective.
I chose 6 primaries (two reds, two yellows and two blues), a secondary (green - because our eyes are very sensible in those wavelengths) and three neutrals:
- Cadnium Yellow (a warm sun-like yellow)
- Gamboge Nova (a.k.a. indian yellow, a yellowish orange)
- Cadnium Red Deep (a firetruck-like red)
- Cadnium Red Purple (somewhat colder than the previous one)
- Raw Umber (a brownish earth tone)
- Hooker's Green (to my eyes, very close to phtalo green - one wonders how that color got it's name)
- Cerulean Blue (sky blue)
- Ultramarine Deep (a darker, colder blue - think bottom of the ocean)
- Payne's grey (a cold bluish gray - If I had to choose a single color, this would be it)
- Burnt umber (a dark earth tone)
How to transfer the paint to the tray:
- To each tray section, one color.
- Squeeze a small bead (about 10% of the tube) into the section. That should be more than enough.
- Add a few drops of water (5-10 drops) to the paint bead.
- using a clean toothpick, mix the water and paint until it forms a thick, uniform liquid of even density, if after mixing it up for a minute it doesn't male a puddle that "flattens", add a few drops of water and keep mixing. When you're done, the toothpick's tip should be barely covered with paint when you remove it from the color mix. If youstill have lumps of paint on it, you're not done or your mix doesn't contain enough water.
- Repeat for each of color.
Step 6: Wait
The paint need to dry.
Don't worry, unlike acrylic paint, watercolor paint is revived with water.
Once you're done, you'll have something that looks like the picture.
Don't worry, unlike acrylic paint, watercolor paint is revived with water.
Once you're done, you'll have something that looks like the picture.
Step 7: Done!
We're done.
That wasn't so complicated, wasn't it?
The nice thing is that we saved money and have better quality paints (and/or more of it) than if we would have bought ready-made boxes. This kit is also smaller than the ones available on th market.
How to use
- Take out a sheet of watercolor paper
- Use a waterbrush (I have a Bienfang watercolor brush (the one with no ink in it, just water)
- Paint!
This is my complete portable watercolor kit:
- My pocket-size Altoids color box
- My pocket-size Moleskine watercolor notebook (the small one)
- Waterbrush (you can also use a pocket-sized brush or a cut-down regular brush with a separate supply of water - I prefer the all-in one option)
- 4H pencil (the older the smaller!)
- Micron pens (or any other waterproof, archival quality ink pen) (this is optional, depending on your painting style)
- A few facial tissues will be useful to clean up when you're done (or pick up excess water on the your paintings).
Enjoy!
That wasn't so complicated, wasn't it?
The nice thing is that we saved money and have better quality paints (and/or more of it) than if we would have bought ready-made boxes. This kit is also smaller than the ones available on th market.
How to use
- Take out a sheet of watercolor paper
- Use a waterbrush (I have a Bienfang watercolor brush (the one with no ink in it, just water)
- Paint!
This is my complete portable watercolor kit:
- My pocket-size Altoids color box
- My pocket-size Moleskine watercolor notebook (the small one)
- Waterbrush (you can also use a pocket-sized brush or a cut-down regular brush with a separate supply of water - I prefer the all-in one option)
- 4H pencil (the older the smaller!)
- Micron pens (or any other waterproof, archival quality ink pen) (this is optional, depending on your painting style)
- A few facial tissues will be useful to clean up when you're done (or pick up excess water on the your paintings).
Enjoy!
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
I also have one of those snooty Windsor and Newton travel things, got it with a 40% off coupon and birthday money a couple years ago. I use it sometimes at IHOP, hanging out with friends, making those little "artist trading card" size paintings. But this is way cooler.
I'm going to make a couple of these "kits", so when my buddies snicker at me, I'll pull out a tin for them and tell 'em to get cracking on their own ATC. I could even keep them in the glove box of the car for those spontaneous moments where you just have to paint something.
For those asking about rejuvenating dried out tube colors - I have two different types, Sakura Koi and Pentech, some of which dried out in the tube.
I got some empty plastic "jars" - the type that come attached to each other on a strip, the sort that come with paint-by-numbers kits. I cut up the metal tubes and mashed up the dried paint until it fell apart into smallish chunks. Then I put it into the jar and taped the label to it.
One of my professionally arty friends said if I add just a drop or two of linseed oil it will soften it back up.
I like the idea of glycerine better (as someone suggested)... but in both brands' case, just using water was enough to bring it back to life. In a couple of instances -depended on the color- I had to work it a bit or to let it sit for a few minutes to soften up, but these were long-dried-out hard little lumps. Sakura Koi, a higher quality brand than Pentech, worked up a lot faster. The Pentech type took rather a while to soften but then it had also been dried up a lot longer. (Yeah I should have just tossed them all, but hey, it's watercolor, it should work even when dry, right? And the Sakura Koi was expensive.)
With the Altoid case method, where it's just enough paint to get you through a few paintings, just swiping it with water in the usual way would work just fine.
As to carrying the water... I often need water on the road (makeup jobs, etc). I use either contact lens saline solution (comes in a big bottle, cheap), or refill said bottle with distilled water and enough vodka to preserve it.
If you wanted a palette you could conceivably make one with fimo as well, sealing it with nail varnish or polyurethane, or put in a bit of plastic that fits in the lid if you have it to hand and don't want to spray paint. I use styrofoam plates when I do acrylic, but when I do watercolors I like separate wells. But you can just use a piece of silicone parchment paper (or two or three, they'll easily fit in the lid).
Such a cool idea - thanks!!
Also, I used something called milliput, it is like fimo but does not need baking, and is quite a bit cheaper.
Good instructable!
Also, regarding the brushes tip, I have been using water-brushes for several years (and paying dearly for them) - So I will add your tip to the related Instructable on how to make your own inexpensive waterbrush
http://www.instructables.com/id/The_1_Waterbrush/
I will make one of your watercolor tins for my next international trip (we do not check luggage, so small is better) and include a waterbrush and watercolor board cut into postcard shapes (another very cool instructable at
http://www.instructables.com/id/Better-Travel-Souvenirs-Watercolor-Postcards/
I will include some painters tape wrapped on a tiny fine-tipped marker (got one for $1 next to the cash register at my local grocery store- it is only 2 inches long) and I can tape the card down, use the marker to make fineline and details or write home, and it should all fit in a quart ziplock with room to spare.
Travel Art in a Baggie! I love it!!
Makes me want to go make plane reservations right now!
Thank you for such a fine fine FINE idea!
Favorited and plussed (wish that I could Plus Plus Plus it!)
(hmm, now what else needs small compartments in an Altoids tin?........)
Commercial "travel paint kits" are expensive and tend to contain poor-quality art supplies. You get what you pay for in artist's materials, so using your idea I can now take my good paint in my choice of colors with me. (I plan to rubberband a paintbrush to the outside of the tin. Clumsy girl that I am, I've snapped many EXPENSIVE brushes over the years - by mistake of course! I never threw them out since the brush end is what matters; still good quality, just with short, splintered handles! Now I can call them portable!)
Acrylic painters could use this too. Most know to keep their paint moist by misting it with water even as they are painting. A misting of clean water on the paints, then some cling-wrap over the compartments prior to closing the lid will last at least a few days. Putting the container in the fridge will keep acrylic paints wet longer. And the idea would be to use up the paint they've put in their tin, not store it forever. Acrylic painters know that if they leave their palette of paint unused too long, even when sealed, that the paint becomes little colorful plastic blob-sculptures :)
This was a brilliant idea and you did a great job creating this Instructable to share with the world!
sorry, couldn't help it.