Step 6: Widen base

Picture of Widen base
1. Widen the opening of the shorter 1" bottle bottom. This is the BASE This opening should be widened to allow the jet deck to tightly telescope inside to the bottom.

I used a 1.5" diameter PVC pipe fitting to widen the aluminum "cup". Place the PVC pipe in the cup and by angeling the cup while pulling, the cup is "rolled" off the pipe. This is done repeatedly rotating the cup a few degrees each time to gradually increase the diameter of the cup.

Be careful not to "flare" the edge of the cup. You do not want to create a "lip" on the edge. The goal is to increase the whole diameter of the cup to slide tightly over the outside of the Jet Deck.
fczinkhan3 years ago
There is no way that your PVC pipe is 1.5" in the pictured bottle. Maybe the actual pipe is 1.5", but whatever is on the end, you failed to specify. The bottles are around 2.25" in diameter at the base. You cannot get a 1.5" pipe to even swivel in the 1" tall base piece to stretch it out. You just need to edit this section to include the larger fitting at the end of your pipe. Thanks for this 'ible, great job.
He did specify. He used a 1.5" PVC pipe FITTING to widen the aluminum cup. A PVC end cap or a straight coupler is what you need to add to the pipe. A 1.5" inch straight coupler is 2.215" in diameter and easily fits in the cup with room to rock it and press against the metal. The straight coupler works best since it has a somewhat sharp edge, the end cap has a radius on the edge and doesn't work very well.
acoleman34 years ago
it would help to heat the base with a propane plumbers torch to eliminate the work hardening created by teh manufacturing process. this would return the aluminium to a relaxed state and soften it up a bit.
I'm not too sure on the numbers for aluminum heat treat (I work mostly with tool steels) or the average temperatures produced by the various fuels used in this, but it's at least hot enough to boil water, and if allowed to air cool, should result in an annealing process every time it is used. I've made thinner gauge aluminum camp stoves, but have never had a problem with cracking due to work hardening, but like OP mentioned, it's best to avoid/remove any crease points or sharp edges to void tearing the metal, and a good overall sanding is a good idea to prevent any paint/plastic from coming into contact with high heat, especially when cooking.