This project serves as a guide for those who wish to build their own bed frame from pipe and modular fittings. The beginning sections are informational, regarding different approaches, preparation, and the resources required. The following sections are a reference for the do-it-yourselfer (DIY), and provides step-by-step directions.

My main motivation for doing this project was to build a modern queen-size canopy bed frame that was made from aluminum pipe and galvanized metal fittings and would accomodate a standard matress and box springs. Many years ago, I had seen a similar bed frame in magazine ads by a well-known fashion designer. Unfortunately, their version cost nearly $6,000!

We have been using this bed for about 7 years now. The pipe is comfortable to hold onto and very sturdy. :) We also think it's pretty stylish.
 
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Step 1: Foreward and Preparation

While this project is pretty easy to assemble, the components are industrial in nature. Make sure your bedroom has enough ceiling clearance for the assembled canopy frame. You will also need a truck or large van to transport the longer lengths of pipe.

The only tool you really need is a standard 5/16" (7.94mm) A.F. hex key. This assumes that you let your pipe supplier cut the pipe to length for you and that you outsource the small amount of welding. Most people don't have welding kits that work with aluminum.

Note: This project isn't what most people would call cheap. Parts alone will cost around $800. Still a far cry from the nearly $6,000 designer version.
TattooedPirate1969 says: Apr 1, 2013. 3:17 PM
This bed is currently available pre-cut, Queen sized in the SF bay area. Look in the community forums,
http://www.instructables.com/community/Aluminum-Pipe-Bed-size-Queen/
.
stoneground1 says: Dec 29, 2012. 3:29 PM
I really like the industrial look to this!! Thanks for posting!!
oogiemama says: Jul 31, 2011. 10:34 AM
This looks great, we recently had to get rid of all of our beds (matress and box springs due to black mold) We have been hunting for just the right diy to build a new frame when we get replacement matresses and I believe this one will be it. We are going to try and build though with out welding needs. And suggestions would be greatly appriciated!
JStrider says: Jan 11, 2008. 8:20 AM
very cool bed! I'd love to make it, and I like the idea of putting extra bars across the top for more places to grab on to. The only downer is the price... thats definitely more then I'd want to spend... Time to head to craigslist and see if I can find some used scaffolding pipe for cheaper.
gossumx in reply to JStriderJun 1, 2011. 1:52 PM
Haha, that's exactly what I tried to do. Can't seem to find anything in the searches I've done.
ElvenChild says: Sep 1, 2010. 10:55 AM
calvin this is santa no presents unless you cream susie with a snowman
DenVogel (author) in reply to ElvenChildSep 1, 2010. 11:07 AM
Hobbes is on it...
ElvenChild in reply to DenVogelSep 1, 2010. 12:07 PM
Isn't hobbes going to give you some lecture ask for a sandwich and walk away
Murphys Laws says: Jul 22, 2010. 9:18 PM
XL twin bunk & loft beds are expensive. This would be great & sturdy. Plus you can make it with as much head room as you need on the bottom bunk.
task41line says: Jul 20, 2010. 2:02 AM
Lol I tried putting up something exactelly like this 2 months ago and it didn't went well but I think this time it will be much easier.
jamesvertigo2 in reply to task41lineJul 20, 2010. 3:16 AM
yea this guide looks great I agree
Computothought says: Jul 19, 2010. 12:37 PM
Awesome idea for a bed.
Aluminum-Pipe-Bed.jpg
mutantpoptart says: Jul 7, 2010. 1:35 PM
First off, this is awesome! Defineatly thinking outside the box! I love this and plan on making one this fall, as I am in need of a new and larger bed!
DenVogel (author) in reply to mutantpoptartJul 7, 2010. 5:40 PM
Cool. Send an update and let us know how it comes out.
stpierre2 says: May 31, 2010. 5:25 PM
I love this project, and will be attempting something similar. Anybody have any idea where I can get Kee Klamps in Canada????
startree says: Apr 28, 2010. 3:42 PM
Love it. Thanks for sharing! was just thinking how well this would work as a loft bed when i saw the other links...
Fretka says: Mar 4, 2010. 2:16 PM
 I am not real handy when it comes to things like this, but wouldn't it make sense to make 2 cross bars, or even 3 from long side to long side to support the box spring? then you wouldn't have to weld at the foot and head bars at all. instead of using such long lengths of pipes, use 2 more T's and add the supports?
I love this bed, and would love to try it myself, but I guess I would appreciate some feedback if my idea would be feasible or not. GREAT IBLE !
mjk1138 says: Feb 17, 2010. 7:21 PM
 Huh?
TattooedPirate1969 says: Apr 16, 2009. 9:27 AM
(removed by author or community request)
mjk1138 in reply to TattooedPirate1969Feb 17, 2010. 7:12 PM
 I, too, would like to see this, and am curious how you did it without welding! Thanks!
DenVogel (author) in reply to TattooedPirate1969Apr 16, 2009. 11:18 AM
Cool. Post some photos when you're done.
RaptorOwl1 says: Sep 19, 2009. 7:42 AM
I think that I will modify this for a loft bed. Welding corner braces for a box spring will not be necessary if there are enough cross pipes. Additionally, a piece of plywood laid across the crosspipes with a memory foam mattress will do nicely. Consider using pipe insulation on the pipe where it is most likely to make contact with tender parts. There is a heavy rubberized type I found at Home Depot.
porcupinemamma says: May 31, 2009. 9:31 PM
It never fails to amaze me how many talented people there are in this community, and you certainly belong to that gang. Well done!!
keverill99 says: May 12, 2009. 12:00 PM
Hoping to make this bed within the next 3 weeks :) Not doing the canopy, it interferes with the ceiling fan, which I can't do without in Phoenix. Thinking of doing 2 supports on the bottom, then a piece of plywood to support the mattress? I'm only doing a mattress, no box spring, so I will space the side supports closer together.
DenVogel (author) in reply to keverill99May 12, 2009. 12:21 PM
Might consider slats instead of a solid piece of plywood. The mattress cannot breathe if solid underneath. If I understand what you're trying to do, you will not be able to bring the side supports in. Even without a canopy, you will still have four vertical posts that are the headboard/footboard. They sit at the outside corners. If you bring it in, the mattress won't fit between the posts. If you read through the instructable thread, I've already posted some additional directions for building a non-canopy version. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
keverill99 in reply to DenVogelMay 12, 2009. 1:20 PM
That makes sense...Thanks!
jobradfield says: Mar 28, 2009. 6:11 PM
oooh! this is so cool! It could easily be steam-punked-up. I'm also looking for cheaper alternatives. Other than steel, is there anything cheaper?
DenVogel (author) says: Aug 6, 2007. 5:00 PM
There have been some requests for a non-canopy design. Here are the modifications necessary for that model. Still queen size. Not only will this allow it to fit in bedrooms with lower ceilings, but fewer fittings and shorter lengths of pipe may help cut down on costs. 1. The four Elbow, Side Outlet (Kee 20-7) fittings that are currently the top four corners of the canopy are removed. 2. The four pieces of pipe that make up the canopy (two 62" and two 79") are removed. 3. The four longest sections (87") of pipe, formerly reaching to the canopy, get shortened to two 26" sections for the foot, and two 50" sections for the headboard. 4. The four Tee, Single Socket (Kee 10-7) that would now be the top fittings at the bed posts, get replaced with four 90-degree elbow (Kee 15-7) to connect the headboard and footboard. If this is too confusing, or there is enough interest, I can do a separate instructable for the non-canopy version of the bed.
notahandyman in reply to DenVogelMar 13, 2009. 12:01 PM
Hello Thank you so much for your trouble I have sourced the fittings and pipe, I am intending to build a Queen, no canopy version without welding, but with a headboard. Is there any tips you think I would need to know Thanks again for the help And congrats on such a great design
DenVogel (author) in reply to notahandymanMar 13, 2009. 12:30 PM
I believe you will need at least two, maybe three, supports across the bottom underneath the mattress. With the welded supports removed from the ends using only two may cause the box spring to bend. This is addressed in the final design that is offered through simplified building.
trebuchet03 says: Jul 26, 2006. 2:38 PM
looks good :D Did you happen to forget that T in the bottom pipes? Just wondering because you mentioned it a few times :P
DenVogel (author) in reply to trebuchet03Jul 26, 2006. 2:42 PM
:) Good question! I actually didn't forget it when I built this, but I've done similar things on other projects. Doh! I know how frustrating things like that can be, so I thought I'd point it out and save folks some trouble.
edless74 in reply to DenVogelFeb 15, 2008. 9:16 AM
Found a cheaper brand to make the bed outta Interclamp about 30% cheaper than Keeklamps that Simplified sell. www.interclamp.com
foobaz utne in reply to edless74Nov 30, 2008. 7:25 PM
Unfortunately they are in England and there are no US retailers, at least, that carry that line. Not online anyway. 30% is not that great a discount in any case. Kee Klamp is expensive but it's the shipping that really kills you. If you can find it locally and go get it you will save a bundle. Grainger seems like the most available local source but you need to be affiliated with a business, even if it is your spouse's employer. If the company is a large corporation, they usually offer you a significant discount. Easyfit (http://tinyurl.com/6gxwtk) is about 40% cheaper but there was no info on shipping. I suspect it is similarly high. Harbor Freight (http://tinyurl.com/6hs3xh) has a very limited selection of fittings that would be adequate for this project but the sizes are really strange. The price is dirt cheap but they look rough. Does anyone know a cheap source of these connectors from a company that is either local or has good shipping prices?
amatuerconstructicon says: Sep 9, 2008. 5:26 PM
just wondering how much it cost to build this bed for you aside from the box spring and mattress, just the frame. Wondering what im to expect trying this myself, as i am in love with this design.
DenVogel (author) in reply to amatuerconstructiconSep 9, 2008. 8:09 PM
I provide a part listing in step 3. There is also a link to Simplified Building in the resources section, where you can purchase a kit. It is about $1400, including the pipe and fittings.
mfbuchanan says: Aug 10, 2008. 11:43 PM
Wonderful! I'm thinking of adding a couple more bars across the headboard to make it a bit more "designish"; then covering pieces of foam or wood that are cut to fit the spaces betweeen the pipes with vinyl or leather and fitting them into the spaces. Would create a solid headboard. I also was thinking of adding a seating area or place to throw your clothes at the base of the bed extending past the foodboard. Using T's instead of L's at the base would allow this. Then just add two more legs. It can be left open for draping stuf on or you can add a top made of wood, glass, etc....
Cisneros.Evan says: May 2, 2008. 9:55 AM
it goes really well with the wooden rafters in your room. i like it a lot.
drewdoog says: Mar 15, 2008. 9:30 PM
excellent idea! I love the industrial look to it. This would be a great bedroom group. matching lamps, night table, tv stand, speaker stands, computer desk... its endless. ill be making something similar in upcoming days.
alistair says: Jul 27, 2006. 2:53 PM
I use Kee Klamps, both the galv iron and aluminium types for a variety of structures. They do work well but the untreated aluminium pipe leave black smudges. It doesn't look liek to anodised the pipe (quite expensive), did you try a coat of polyurethane?
DenVogel (author) in reply to alistairJul 27, 2006. 5:57 PM
Per Step 5, I decided to clear coat them to avoid potential oxidization and/or interaction between the dissimilar metals. I just used Krylon clear coat from a spray can. Has worked fine.
mrbob1000 in reply to DenVogelJul 27, 2006. 6:46 PM
aluminum doesnt oxidize :I
markf in reply to mrbob1000Jan 18, 2008. 7:51 PM
Aluminum oxidizes just fine. But it wont corrode. Apparently the effect is called "passivation".

Interesting side note -- even the tinest little drop of mercury can corrode and destroy an unlimited amount of aluminum. Apparently it's illegal to take mercury thermometers on airplanes for exactly that reason.

So if you build one of these, try not to break any mercury thermometers in bed. :p
trebuchet03 in reply to mrbob1000Jul 28, 2006. 11:34 PM
Ever heard of Anodizing? Aluminum does not make rust(FeO,Fe2O3, etc.) when it oxidizes (unlike many ferrous materials). When Al oxidizes, if forms Al2O3... commonly known as Aluminum Oxide or corundum (corundum in to Al as Rust is to Fe). And Coleman! is absolutly right... Corundum is very common in abrasives for cutting tools and sandpaper (which is why some sandpaper has thar gray like color due to impurities). Its also a good insulator (unlike aluminum which is a good conductor). Amazing what adding an oxygen molecule will do to chemical properties and crystal structure :D The reason that aluminum does not break down like its ferrous counterpart is because Al Oxide protects the Al below from oxygen. So a few mm of Al oxide, and the specimin in 'safe' -- this is the principle behind anodization.
trebuchet03 in reply to trebuchet03Jul 28, 2006. 11:37 PM
oh, I had meant to add in that first paragraph that you may be confusing the terms rust and oxidize with each other (which is not too uncommon). we've all done similar things in the past ;) -- for example, I was asked to define irony today... I was able to recognize 100% from this test... but I failed miserably at defining exactly what it is (I defined some other term by mistake) :P
Coleman! in reply to mrbob1000Jul 28, 2006. 1:02 AM
Au Contraire, Mister Bob. ever use sandpaper?
spoonrelateddeath says: Jan 5, 2008. 12:38 PM
What you should do is add a chain link bed skirt. Give it an industrial look.
Truegod says: Dec 24, 2007. 9:30 AM
Great instructable. I'm ditching my futon and I think building this might be perfect. Although I'm probably doing the weld-free, non-canopy version (although I'm not sure yet). Thanks for the simplified design link too, I've been exploring their site and have a bunch of cool ideas for projects. I think I might use SketchupSketchup to flesh them out.
DenVogel (author) in reply to TruegodDec 27, 2007. 9:01 AM
Thanks for the kind words. Please share your mods, and let us know how it turns out.
spencerkaitlin says: Nov 15, 2007. 3:46 PM
This is fantastic. Totally going to do this. It would be nice to see a weld-free version, however.
DenVogel (author) in reply to spencerkaitlinNov 16, 2007. 7:34 AM
Thanks for the kind words. This is the original that I built. The current version actually is weld-free. It uses extra supports under the mattress at each end (near head and foot for three total), instead of just across the middle. The kit at tSimplified Building is weld free. Let us know how it turns out.
sandyblue says: Nov 13, 2007. 11:07 PM
wow, awesome!! I always wanted a canopy bed, this version is what I have been looking for a long time, Thanks.
dbaldwind284 says: Oct 22, 2007. 4:19 PM
Is it possible to get sizes for super king bed
DenVogel (author) in reply to dbaldwind284Oct 23, 2007. 1:31 PM
You might contact the folks at Simplified Building, to see if they are working on anything. I'm not aware of any current projects for Super King. You could adapt this Instructable by measuring around your current mattress.
edless74 says: Jun 13, 2007. 4:51 AM
Suppose its stirdy enough to for an active bedroom? lol. I made something similar for my youngest using a brand called Interclamp from my local engineering supplies they had the clamps and tube powder coated for me so it fitted in with the room decor and it wasnt so cold in the winter, cost me less than £290, thank god for Interclamp, selling things at better prices
edless74 says: Jun 13, 2007. 4:46 AM
omg $40 for 4 feet they made of gold?
g0dl355 says: Jun 9, 2007. 3:19 PM
You could always rhino-line the pipes if you were worried about scratches or anything similar. Nice design, I may build one...but I think I think a pipe or 3 across the top would give you more of a "monkey bars" type of feel...if thats what you uh...yea :-)
jdsixtwenty says: Jun 3, 2007. 8:33 PM
Does it squeek at all during more vigorus use?
DenVogel (author) in reply to jdsixtwentyJun 4, 2007. 11:57 AM
No squeaking. Once in a while we will hear a "pop" from the hex bolt tension adjusting against the pipe, but we just tighten it up. Think of it more like a jungle gym than a bed frame. :)
benya says: Nov 9, 2006. 8:06 PM
This is awesome. Do you have a picture of what the aluminum angle brackets welded to the lower head and foot pipes looks like? Wouldn't the pipes just rotate so that brakets end up not supporting the box spring?
DenVogel (author) in reply to benyaNov 10, 2006. 10:02 AM
It's already assembled, so no picture specifically of that. Not much to see frankly. We just lay the angle bracket and pipe on the ground so they are on the same plane, and weld. The Kee Klamp provide a strong enough joint that the pipe will not rotate once locked in. I understand what you're asking, but we've been using this for years and haven't had an issue with it.
benya says: Nov 9, 2006. 8:05 PM
This is awesome. Do you have a picture of what the aluminum angle brackets welded to the lower head and foot pipes looks like? Wouldn't the pipes just rotate so that brakets end up not supporting the box spring?
Junkernaut says: Oct 19, 2006. 2:01 AM
somone should draw plans for a bunk bed
simplifiedbuilding in reply to JunkernautOct 19, 2006. 8:10 AM
We've had some people design bunk beds and loft beds. Here's one example:
http://simplifiedbuilding.com/blog/?p=59

Also, we just released many of the fittings used in this bed in our SketchUp library:
http://www.simplifiedbuilding.com/sketchup.php

You can now use Sketchup to design a bed project.
Aimless says: Aug 9, 2006. 9:49 AM
Well, I couldn't stop thinking about this, so i finally decided to build it. Soonish. But with modifications :)

The process so far:

http://www.notebookinhand.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2708

http://www.malazanempire.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5639

http://www.ataricommunity.com/forums/showthread.php?t=532702

Any and all ideas welcome, and thanks to all y'all for making for such a great site =)

-- P
DenVogel (author) in reply to AimlessAug 10, 2006. 7:55 AM
If you want the pipe to be a color, I'd highly recommend you use annodized aluminum or have it powder coated. It will provide the most consistent and durable finish. Look forward to seeing what you come up with. Have fun!
lurker99 says: Aug 1, 2006. 4:17 PM
I built a similar bed using chain-link fence tubing from my local home center, which I cut with a hacksaw. For my twin mattress, I used 5 6' tubes: 3 full-length tubes for two side rails and a center rail; two 6' tubes, cut in half for 4 bed-posts; one 6' tube, cut in half for the side-to-side pieces at the head and foot of the bed. I used 6 Kee Klamps from Grainger: 4 @ "21-8" at the corners and 2 @ "10-8" tee-fittings. To support the mattress, I used 3 pieces of 1/4" plywood 42" by 24".
simplifiedbuilding in reply to lurker99Aug 2, 2006. 6:58 AM
I'd love to see some pictures of this if you've got them.. you can send them to me at: chris [at] simplifiedbuilding [dot] com
Wohksworth says: Jul 27, 2006. 3:07 PM
The end result looks great, but the price is still a little shocking. Can you recommend any alternative parts that could help get the cost down to 'hungry college student project' range?
DenVogel (author) in reply to WohksworthJul 28, 2006. 10:00 AM
Just occurred to me that you could also remove the 4 "feet" (aka Flange, Base). That would only save you $40 or so though.
DenVogel (author) in reply to WohksworthJul 27, 2006. 5:59 PM
Thanks for the kind words. I guess you could check into steel pipe. It might be less expensive than aluminum, but it would be really heavy.
alistair says: Jul 27, 2006. 7:57 PM
DenVogel, doh, slapping my head for missing step five :) and mrbob1000...you should do same to your head, aluminum sure does oxidize, very reactive metal, its just that the first layer of oxide prevents further oxidation.
mikesty says: Jul 26, 2006. 9:05 PM
Wow it looks fantastic, but that's so expensive! Ever thought about curtains? :P
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