Introduction: Amigurumi Floppy Sheep
Fact: Small fluffy crocheted animals are the cutest.
These instructions will show you how to crochet an adorable sheep with floppy legs and ears. Whether you are a beginner or have been making amigurumi for a while now, you have come to the right place. We will walk through the steps to crocheting all of the parts to this sheep, stuffing them, and then sewing them together. You can use this pattern with either worsted or fluffy yarn. Sheep made with both types of yarn are pictured above.
- Tan worsted yarn for the legs
- White yarn for the body (can be worsted or fluffy)
- Two plastic eyes with backs, or black yarn
- A size 5.0 mm crochet hook
- Polyfil or other stuffing
- A tapestry needle or other wide-eyed needle
- A stitch marker or paperclip
Note about working with fluffy yarn: Working with fluffy yarn makes it very hard to see what you have already crocheted. I recommend only using this yarn if you are experienced enough that you can feel where the loops are. In order for you to see what I am doing, I will provide pictures for these instructions of a sheep I made using worsted yarn. The pattern works for either yarn type.
Note about the yarn and hook sizes: I have followed dozens of patterns for amigurumi, and I next to never follow the yarn and hook size recommendations. My projects always turn out fine, so use whatever yarn and hook size you want within reason. I do have to say that the tan and the white yarn should be similar sizes so that the sheep proportions turn out okay.
Step 1: Starting Off With a Magic Circle
If you already know how to make a magic ring, skip to step 3. For those who don't, you will use this almost any time you crochet in the round. Check out this video.
In step two, we will be crocheting the body, which some of you will be making with fluffy yarn. If that is the case, use the fluffy yarn for this magic circle. If you are using worsted yarn, use whatever color you chose for the body.
Step 2: Crocheting the Body
The instructions from here on out will be in rounds. Crocheting in rounds means that after you finish all of the stitches in a “round”, you will start the next round simply by crocheting into the first stitch of the previous round (see picture 1). No chaining or slip stitches needed! After you complete round two, you will not even be able to tell the difference between rounds. This brings me to my next point. You will want to mark the beginning stitch of each round with your stitch marker or paper clip (see picture 2). This will allow you to backtrack in your work if you mess up without losing your place.
On to the pattern!
- Round 1: In the magic circle you made in the previous step, chain 1, then single crochet 8 stitches inside the ring (see picture 3). Pull the ring closed (see picture 4).
- Round 2: Into the first single crochet from the previous round, start this round. Make two single crochet stitches into each of the previous round’s stitches (2 SC in each stitch). This should leave you with 16 SC stitches total.
- Round 3: Make 2 SC into the first stitch but only 1 SC into the second stitch of the previous round. Repeat this until you finish the round. You will have 24 SC stitches total.
- Round 4-8: SC into each stitch (24 SC total per each round)
- Round 9: Single crochet decrease the first two stitches from the previous round together. This will start to round off the body. Make one SC into the next stitch. Alternate one SC decreases and one normal SC around. This will leave you with 16 stitches total. If a SC decrease is new to you, check out this video.
- Round 10: SC in each stitch around.
- STUFF WITH POLYFIL
- Round 11 - end: Make SC decreases until you have around 6 stitches in a round left, then cut the yarn, giving yourself at least 6 inches of yarn, then tie off like in pictures 5 and 6 to knot it closed. Using a needle and this extra yarn, sew the opening shut
Step 3: Crocheting the Head
We will crochet the head in rounds also. Here is the pattern:
- Round 1: Make the magic ring out of the tan colored yarn. Chain 1, then make 8 SC.
- Round 2: 2 SC in each stitch in the round. (16 SC total)
- Round 3: 2 SC first stitch, 1 SC in the second. Repeat around. (24 SC total)
- Round 4-8: SC in each stitch.
- Round 9: SC decrease the first two together, one SC in the next stitch. Repeat around. (16 SC total)
- CHANGE TO FURRY YARN OR OTHER BODY-COLORED YARN. If you do not know how to change colors mid-row, check out this video. After you switch colors and cut the ends, you can tie them together to prevent them from coming undone (see pictures 1 and 2 which show untied and then tied).
- Round 10-11: SC in each stitch with the new color yarn.
- ADD EYES. Position them according to picture 4 if using black yarn. If using plastic eyes, inset them 6 stitches apart between the 2nd or 3rd row down from the border between the white yarn and the tan yarn.
Note: Make sure that the stitch where you transitioned between yarn types (see picture 5) is on the opposite side of the head as the eyes so that you do not notice the transition.
- STUFF THE HEAD WITH POLYFIL.
- Round 12: make SC decreases until you have around 6 stitches left in the row. Cut the yarn, pull the loop through, and sew the hole closed.
Step 4: Crocheting the Legs
Pattern for the legs:
- Round 1: Make a magic ring with the leg-colored yarn. Chain 1, then make 10 SC in the ring and pulled closed.
- Round 2: In the back loops only (see picture 1), SC in each stitch around. The reason for crocheting in the back loops for this round is so that the legs have a distinguishable bottom (see picture 2).
- Round 3-4: Now crocheting normally again into both loops, SC in each stitch. (10 SC total)
- Round 4: SC decrease, then SC in each of the next 3 stitches. Repeat (8 SC total).
- Round 5: SC decrease, SC in next 2. Repeat (6 SC total). Cut the yarn and tie off.
Make four of these legs total.
Step 5: Crocheting the Ears
Pattern for the ears:
- Round 1: Make a magic ring with the leg colored yarn, chain one, then SC 6 into the circle.
- Round 2-5: SC around
- End: Make 2 SC decreases. Cut the yarn with 6 inches to work with and tie off.
Make two of these ears.
Step 6: Assembly
Now it’s time to sew all of the pieces together!
Attaching the ears to the head: Use the needle and the yarn end from the ears to sew the ears to the body, right at the division line between the two types of yarn on either side of the head (see picture 2). Tie a knot to keep the ears secure (with the needle still attached to the yarn), then stab the head of the sheep all the way through (see picture 3). Pull the needle out from the other end of the head, and CAREFULLY cut the yarn close to the head (see picture 4). Squish the head until the yarn end disappears into the head
Attaching the head to the body: Use the needle and the yarn end from the body. Sew into the back of the head two rows below the division line between the two types of yarn (see picture 5). You will need to make this connection secure because the head is pretty big. Tie and hide the yarn tail like before.
Attaching the legs to the body: Since the legs are not structurally able to hold the sheep up when it stands, we will go for the floppy sheep look. Choose a place for the legs to attach to the body that is not directly under the sheep but more on the side. When you are actually sewing the legs onto the body, try to sew through at least three different stitches from the top round of the leg to make the attachment secure.
Making a tail: Crochet a chain of 3 stitches with the white yarn and tie off. Sew one end through the part of the body that you want the tail to be at. Tie the other loose end to this end so that the tail becomes a puff. Sew the ends into the body to hide them.
Step 7: Finished!
And there you have it! Your own sheep!
This sheep pattern is modified from the baby mobile craft by Sarah on Repeat Crafter Me.
We have a be nice policy.
Please be positive and constructive.