Having said all that, and even though this project is crafted from high-resolution components and seems final, I would still categorize it as a prototype. There's a lot I learned throughout the creation that I would alter or replace in the next iteration. I don't know when or if that next iteration will take place, but I wanted to share this stepping stone because it's still a neat way to store silverware for rafting trips.
The final product holds plenty of forks, knives, and spoons in a spring-loaded tray for easy access and also hides a cavity underneath to store can openers, corkscrews, and the like. All contained in a 50 cal ammo can, the standard for miscellaneous rafting storage.
For this Instructable, I'm going to share the steps to make each individual part, and then have a final assembly at the end with good photos, at which point you can tighten all the nuts and bolts and lock washers down to their full tightness.
Step 1: Supplies & Tools
- 50 cal ammo can
- zinc plated punched steel angle
- punched flat steel bar
- 12 x 24 x .03" steel sheet
- lock washers
- rubber U-channel (McMaster)
- silver spray paint
- machine screws
- springs (Serv-a-lite #11 conical)
- adhesive rubber feet/stoppers (to keep the springs from bending incorrectly)
- punch or drill/drill press
- sheet metal shear/angle shear
Step 2: Decide on Dimensions
Keep in mind there is some depth taken up by miscellaneous parts inherent in the design - hinge, nuts, bolts, the tray itself, and so on. Also remember that the depth you choose for the tray will influence the angle the dividers need to have so that the tray can open and be lifted to reach the bottom cavity. Lots of random dimensioning to consider, and definitely not trivial - think about it and prototype with cardboard before you begin. I did, and I still had to change a lot throughout the project, and I still have more to change!
My final dimensions were about 3" deep for the tray and 3.25" for the cavity, with the miscellaneous parts taking up about 1/2" of depth.
Step 3: Make Internal Frame
Connect two legs to each cross bar. Check the photo below of the end to see how I left some of the cross bars overhanging, mostly to give room to the bolt heads on the cross strut.
Then, drop the two assemblies into the ammo can and measure for the cross strut, which will be cut from the flat punched bar. Keep in mind that you don't only have to measure how wide a piece you want to cut overall, but also where you want to cut so the holes line up! Once you do this and attach it (see photos), you have the base frame almost complete.
All you need now is to add the cross strut across the top in the front and the hinge assembly. For the former, cut a piece of the flat punched bar (keeping the hole lineup in mind) or make your own with the steel sheet you have. With the dimensions I used, I needed to do the latter because the holes didn't line up. So I cut a piece 1" wide and long enough to reach across, punched a couple holes, and bolted them to the top bars.
For the hinge assembly, see the photos to get an idea of the geometry I used. I used a piece of the sheet steel, cut two holes for the hinge and four for the large bolts - two to hold it on to the frame, and two as dummy bolts to eventually attach the springs to.
Now that you have the frame and hinge assembly all done, let's move on to the tray.
Step 4: Make Tray Bottom
Decide dimensions, and cut a piece of the steel sheet to what you need. To clean it up, make it look nice, and function best, I did the following:
- Cut the corners off, maybe 1/4" in on each corner (the inside corners of the ammo can are rounded, so you need to do this
- Use the punch to make a semi-circular indentation about 1" in diameter at the center of one end to make it easy to lift the tray
- Cut the corners off the semicircle just a bit so no one gets poked or cut while reaching around it
Step 5: Make Tray Dividers
Whatever you choose, here's what I did.
- Cut a piece of the sheet steel to the length of the tray bottom and to the remaining height in the ammo can.
- Cut angles into the two pieces using a bandsaw or angle shear
Let's finish the tray!
Step 6: Finish the Tray
I found the following order to make sense:
- place one divider on bottom with brackets and mark where you need to punch the holes
- punch holes in one divider
- lay punched divider on top of second one, align edges, and mark where holes should be punched
- punch holes in second divider
- attach all the brackets to both dividers
- after deciding how wide you want each compartment to be, place the divider-bracket assemblies on the tray and mark where holes need to be punched
- punch holes in tray bottom
- line up tray bottom with hinge assembly attached to frame and mark where you need to punch hole(s) for hinge to connect to tray
- punch hole(s) for hinge
- attach dividers to tray bottom
Step 7: Spray Paint
Grab the can, tray, and dividers, and head to a good place for spray painting, and get to it!
Step 8: Final Assembly
Step 9: For Next Time
- Make it lighter. Focus more on total weight, eliminate unnecessary parts. This design is fairly bulky, and I'd like to streamline it.
- Simpler. Too many fasteners and different pieces to break, corrode, become misaligned, or get lost.
- Better spring system. The springs worked out OK, but a better way of making the tray angle upward would be good.
- Linkage tray. Instead of springs, perhaps I could make a fishing tackle-style linkage that lifts the tray out of the box and rests it on the outer rim of the ammo can.
- Lots of other things! I'm sure as I get it out on the river this summer, I (and all my coworkers) will find improvements. Maybe the 2nd edition will be a mid-summer release!