The following Instructable shows how to create an adaptable mount for this eyepiece (or any 1.25" eyepiece for that matter) on ANY digital camera. My total financial investment, including the eyepiece, is $25. I could have bought a ready-made adapter for a mere $200. That's more than I bought the camera for on eBay.
And if that is not enough for you, this Instructable requires no special tools, like laser cutters, oscilloscopes, SLA rapid prototype machines, nor nuclear centrifuges!!!
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Gather your tools
2. A rotary tool, like the Dremel, with a cut-off tool, small drill bit, and grinder. (handy, but not mandatory)
3. An X-Acto knife or other utility knife.
4. Needle-nose pliers.
5. A very small screwdriver.
6. A can of flat black spray paint, if desired.
Next Image:
7. 1/8 inch black crepe tape (optional)
8. Black marker
9. Fine sand paper
10. Small rubber bands
11. Needle file (optional)
This is what used. However, being the ever-resourceful people that you are, feel free to substitute as desired.


















































Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »




So, if you can, get a very black velvet piece to line the interior of the lens barrel; but beware, test it to see if it sheds any fiber, because the sensor on digital cameras attract all dust or fibers by electrostatic charge, and not all cameras have sensor cleaning mechanisms!
Good luck.
A small test with etching/frosting spray and black flat paint did prove pretty useful with no worry for the fibers going loose.
I have heard of literally "velvet" sprays but could not find one nor test it.
Thanks so much for the heads-up!
Wonderful instructable as well. Not that it is the first ever DIY macro crash course out there. But the result is rather neat.
If I ever concider giving it a go I think I would try to also purchase a few white letter-a-sets that were out before laser printers were as common.
Thank you for going through the trouble of sharing this with us.
Depth of field, as you undoubtedly know, is a function of magnification, f/stop, and aperture. This becomes tricky as telescope lenses have different systems of labeling lenses than camera lenses.
When we get to this range between micro and macro, DoF is very shallow no matter what you use. I have 4 or 5 lenses I use for my micro/macro images. Through experimentation, I have a pretty good idea which lens I want to use, with which camera, to get a desired result.
My simplistic rule of thumb is that less power = more depth of field.
With microscopes, you pretty much get a 2D DoF, that is "none".
One trick I use is to place the camera on a tripod or sit it on a nice level surface. I hook the camera up to the mac with a cable. Then I use some simple software that allows me to release the shutter through a push of the space bar. Without touching the camera, I scoot the object closer and closer until it is in focus on the monitor. Ideally, the object would be sitting on a microscope slide tray that you could move tiny increments with the adjustment screws.
Since that is more than my eBay purchased camera, I'll continue with the DIY version.
Click Here
I recently built one for my point and shoot, and it's amazing.
My camera has a 10x optical zoom, so I have a lot of depth of field to work with. (comparatively, that is)
If anyone else is having lighting problems, what with the lens being so close to the subject, I would recommend adjusting the levels in an image editor. The <a href = http://www.gimp.org/>GIMP</a>, a free, cross-platform image editor, does an excellent job of automagically adjusting levels to bring out more realistic color (in most cases). I'm working on a batch file for conversion as I write this.
One thing I need is a way to adjust the focus precisely in small increments. A 3-axis system would be ideal, but I'm thinking of making one from an old microscope. Thoughts? Advice?
The first image is a plastic container. The second, a Pentium 1. The third is a "before" shot without my attachment, and the last is with the lens. I still need to work on focusing and better lighting (the first 2 images are after editing), but it's a start.
I'm working on converting a microscope to digital imaging, and I might use that set-screw technique for my mounting. Thanks for the inspiration!