However, it turned out I ended up having quite a bit of fun with this. I will admit, I had quite a lot of timely mistakes; well, more like precautions, and this instructable has a few goals for me to convey. First, I'll try to eliminate some mistakes and/or precautions you may do to hopefully save some of your valuable time. Secondly, I'll provide you with a wonderful option to add an antiquing/crackle effect to your piece and paint.
Step 1: Before
Anyways, this is how the project looked like before the "antiquing" process was started.
Step 2: Materials
-Wood conditioner (only if your working with something just built or any porous woods, and/or, if there is any unpainted wood showing)
-Stain (I used dark walnut for this project)
-Titebond liquid Hide Glue ( what gives you the crackle effect)
-100% acrylic paint (color of your choosing)
-A dark colored gloss
-Danish oil, lacquer or shellac to finish/seal all bare wood
-Cheap paint brushes
-Cotten rags (lots!)
Step 3: Beat Your Project Up!
The goal here is to mimic what would have taken places after years of use, maybe a move or two and really, the wear on the piece over time.
Step 4: Pre Condition and Stain
So if you decide to stain, pre-treat with a wood conditioner and then continue to apply your stain of choice.
Step 5: Liquid Hide Glue
Decide which areas of your piece where you want to have a crackle finished paint look. Once decided, grab your glue and a throw away paint brush and apply to entire area. It's important not to have an even application here. You want some areas thick and some thin with the glue. The reason being, your crackle effect will be uneven in the long run indicating years of wear and tare.
Step 6: Paint
For a further aging look, such as in picture #1 and #2 (areas I thought would be more aged), you can take a dry paint brush and or a cloth and dab or scrape across an area where you want to have more bare wood than crackle paint showing. Ideally, these are outside corners or any area of the piece where more wear and tear would have occurred over the years.
As I mentioned in the introduction, I took a lot of precautions in this project. You can see that in picture #1. Initially, I applied minimul glue, then paint and ultimately decided to repeat time and time again. I strongly suggest you don't do that. It takes forever! However, it might be beneficial for you to leave areas of greater distress unglued and not painted until ready to work to take your time further distressing those areas. You will realize the paint dries very quickly and it is easier to work on smaller areas while doing such.
Step 7: Glazing
Now that my rant is over, here are a few things to keep in mind about glaze.
-You can buy clear and colored glazes, however, if you have a clear glaze, you can add paint to it to achieve the desired effect.
-Glaze dries very quickly. Work over small areas until you get the hang of it.
- As for the application itself, paint on and wipe off almost immediately. I could leave it on almost twice as long on the orange than I could the white. So experiment on a test piece or an area that won't be as easily seen once showcased.
Step 8: Sealing the Unpainted Wood
Picture #1 is without finish whereas #2 is with the Danish oil.
Step 9: Congratulations!
I hope this instructable helped you and added another tool to your arsenal for recreating an antique look.