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Got a couple of those awful Apple puck-mice in your closet? It's time to make a coat rack. Construction time is ~2 hours, plus glue drying time.
You'll need:
two puck mice
two pieces of dowel (1 to 1.5 inches, your choice)
four wood screws
two mounting screws (preferably black)
adhesive that works on plastic
2 washers with holes smaller than the head of the wood screws
some masking tape
A drill
A dremel or other rotary tool is helpfull
A razor blade or sharp knife
You'll need:
two puck mice
two pieces of dowel (1 to 1.5 inches, your choice)
four wood screws
two mounting screws (preferably black)
adhesive that works on plastic
2 washers with holes smaller than the head of the wood screws
some masking tape
A drill
A dremel or other rotary tool is helpfull
A razor blade or sharp knife
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Signing UpStep 1Prepare parts
The image shows what you're trying to make. To get there, we first need to prepare all the parts.
Dowel:
1) Cut the dowel pieces to the size you'd like. The pieces I used was about 3/4 inch thick, and were 1.25 inches long. We need to be able to wrap the cord all the way around the dowel and have about 2 inches extra (one on either end).
2) Drill starter holes for the wood screws so the dowels don't split. One hole in the center of the dowel on each end. Cut a groove the diameter of the mouse cords on the bottom of the dowel. It should start at one edge of the circumference and travel at an angle about 1/2 to the center.
Cords:
Cut the cords from the mice and keyboards. Cut them as close to each end as you can. You won't need the USB ends, and you don't want any wire sticking out of the hardware ends. Save the cords.
Mouse ball:
We'll need a little space inside the mouse, but we still want the ball in there since it's visible from the other side. Take the ball out of the mouse, and use a razor or sharp knife to cut an end off. Cut off less than 1/2. You should be able to slide the metal ball out of the mouse ball, and have a hollow rubber shell.
Bottom of mouse:
The bottom screw in circle from the mouse should be removed. Glue a washer centered over the hole of the bottom. (see image) Let the glue dry.
Keyboard:
1) Decide where you want to position the mice. Drill a hole all the way through the keyboard at this point. The hole should allow the wood screw to get through without cracking the keyboard.
2) Drill a second set of holes on the back next to the mouse mounting holes. The second set of holes is to hide the end of the mouse cord in, so it should have the same diameter as the mouse cord, and should be close enough to the mouse mounting holes, that the dowel will cover it.
3) Remove the black screws on the back of the keyboard from next to the USB ports. Enlarge the holes such that a) the wall mounting screws can fit through, and b) the heads of the wall mounting screws will be sunken into the back. (see image)
Dowel:
1) Cut the dowel pieces to the size you'd like. The pieces I used was about 3/4 inch thick, and were 1.25 inches long. We need to be able to wrap the cord all the way around the dowel and have about 2 inches extra (one on either end).
2) Drill starter holes for the wood screws so the dowels don't split. One hole in the center of the dowel on each end. Cut a groove the diameter of the mouse cords on the bottom of the dowel. It should start at one edge of the circumference and travel at an angle about 1/2 to the center.
Cords:
Cut the cords from the mice and keyboards. Cut them as close to each end as you can. You won't need the USB ends, and you don't want any wire sticking out of the hardware ends. Save the cords.
Mouse ball:
We'll need a little space inside the mouse, but we still want the ball in there since it's visible from the other side. Take the ball out of the mouse, and use a razor or sharp knife to cut an end off. Cut off less than 1/2. You should be able to slide the metal ball out of the mouse ball, and have a hollow rubber shell.
Bottom of mouse:
The bottom screw in circle from the mouse should be removed. Glue a washer centered over the hole of the bottom. (see image) Let the glue dry.
Keyboard:
1) Decide where you want to position the mice. Drill a hole all the way through the keyboard at this point. The hole should allow the wood screw to get through without cracking the keyboard.
2) Drill a second set of holes on the back next to the mouse mounting holes. The second set of holes is to hide the end of the mouse cord in, so it should have the same diameter as the mouse cord, and should be close enough to the mouse mounting holes, that the dowel will cover it.
3) Remove the black screws on the back of the keyboard from next to the USB ports. Enlarge the holes such that a) the wall mounting screws can fit through, and b) the heads of the wall mounting screws will be sunken into the back. (see image)
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http://stuporglue.org/gallery/Moores/Projects/CoatRack/ -- Pictures will be there for the foreseeable future. Past the foreseeable, no guarantees. :-)
The steps here are what I would have done had I known exactly what to do when I started. As it was, I just had this idea and kept doing things till it all worked out.