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Moveable composting toilets that allow fruit or wood-bearing tree saplings to be planted have been used for many years in Africa and now Haiti (see: S.O.I.L.) to encourage planting of orchards by families. This design was for a villiage in Haiti's Central Plateau and is based on those ideas. Four units were constructed using materials available in nearby Hinche at a cost of about $135 U.S. which includes the estimate for labor for 1 day (2 men), construction, transport and installation. An example can be seen at the Kobonal school Notre Dame Ste. Trinite.
The enclosure is constructed of panels of corrugated tin over PVC pipe frames. The tin is attached with loops of baling wire and the panels are joined with baling wire. The roof of the enclosure is sloped toward a drip-edge in the rear where rainwater is directed to a covered bucket with faucet for hand washing. The entrance is a curtain made from a piece of tarp. This results in a light-yet-strong enclosure easily lifted by one person. The enclosure is anchored to a portable concrete slab with 4 bolts and brackets.
The reinforced concrete slab has carrying handles and is thin enough to be carried by 4 men. It supports a pedestal with toilet seat, the enclosure, and a vent pipe.
A 3' x 4' x 3' deep hole is dug and the edge leveled. The slab is placed over the hole and the enclosure and vent pipe attached. The bucket is attached and filled with water. Corn cobs are provided for wiping and a soil+ash+leaf mix provided to aid composting. Flies and odors are reduced by a screened vent pipe and by keeping the lid on the toilet seat closed between uses.
The enclosure is constructed of panels of corrugated tin over PVC pipe frames. The tin is attached with loops of baling wire and the panels are joined with baling wire. The roof of the enclosure is sloped toward a drip-edge in the rear where rainwater is directed to a covered bucket with faucet for hand washing. The entrance is a curtain made from a piece of tarp. This results in a light-yet-strong enclosure easily lifted by one person. The enclosure is anchored to a portable concrete slab with 4 bolts and brackets.
The reinforced concrete slab has carrying handles and is thin enough to be carried by 4 men. It supports a pedestal with toilet seat, the enclosure, and a vent pipe.
A 3' x 4' x 3' deep hole is dug and the edge leveled. The slab is placed over the hole and the enclosure and vent pipe attached. The bucket is attached and filled with water. Corn cobs are provided for wiping and a soil+ash+leaf mix provided to aid composting. Flies and odors are reduced by a screened vent pipe and by keeping the lid on the toilet seat closed between uses.
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Signing UpStep 1Enclosure: Making the PVC Frames
The enclosure, along with the toilet lid, slab and snorkel-like vent pipe help to prevent water from entering the pit which would reduce the effectiveness of the composting process. The enclosure also provides the occupant privacy and some protection from the elements.
The enclosure consists of 5 PVC frames, 4 of which are covered with corrugated tin fastened with baling wire to form rigid panels. These are the left and right sides, the rear, and the roof. The front frame is not covered but will have a tarp curtain attached later. The panels and front frame are also attached to each other with baling wire to form a light, solid structure when anchored to the slab.
Left and Right sides (this will make the frames for both sides):
You will need:
saw to cut the pvc pipe
PVC cement
4 - 3/4" PVC pipes 46" long
4 - 3/4" PVC pipes 69-1/2" long
8 - 3/4" elbows
Cut the PVC pipes to length according to the dimensions given below.
On a clean, flat solid surface, lay out two long and two short pipes with the elbows for the left side.
Test fit the the parts to make a rectangle. If everything looks OK, apply cement to the inside surface for the first joint in the first elbow and outside end of it's mated pipe. Make sure that the pipe slides in all the way. Repeat for the other pipes -- each time laying the partially completed frame on the flat surface to insure that the frame will lay flat and not be twisted. When completed, set aside the frame and repeat for the right side.
Rear Wall:
saw to cut pipe
PVC cement
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe 35-1/2" long
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe 69-1/2" long
4 - 3/4" elbows
Make the rear frame just as you made the sides above.
Roof:
saw to cut pipe
PVC cement
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe 35-1/2" long
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe 47-1/2" long
4 - 3/4" elbows
Make the roof frame in the same way as the previous frames.
Front:
saw to cut pipe to length
PVC cement
3 - 3/4" PVC pipe cross pieces 35-1/2" long
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe short sides 3-1/2" long
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe long sides 69-1/2" long
4 - 3/4" elbows
2 - 3/4" tees
Cut the pipe to length.
See the photo above to understand how the front frame is put together. It calls for 3 cross pieces of pipe to form the top, curtain hanger and bottom of the frame. The sides contain two short pieces on the top glued to the elbows of the top cross piece, and the other end inserted in a side of a tee fitting. The center of the tee is glued to the curtain hanger pipe. the bottom of the tee is glued to the long side pipe. and the bottom of each side pipe is joined to the elbows of the bottom cross piece.
On a clean, flat solid surface, lay out the 3 cross pieces, the 4 elbows, the two tees and the short and long side pipes.
Test fit the the parts to make two joined rectangles - a small and a large. If everything looks OK, apply cement to the inside surface for the first joint in the first fitting and outside end of it's mated pipe. Make sure that the pipe slides in all the way. Repeat for the other pipes and fittings -- each time laying the partially completed frame on the flat surface to insure that the frame will lay flat and not be twisted.
This completes the Frame assembly. Next step, Enclosure: Covering the Frames
The enclosure consists of 5 PVC frames, 4 of which are covered with corrugated tin fastened with baling wire to form rigid panels. These are the left and right sides, the rear, and the roof. The front frame is not covered but will have a tarp curtain attached later. The panels and front frame are also attached to each other with baling wire to form a light, solid structure when anchored to the slab.
Left and Right sides (this will make the frames for both sides):
You will need:
saw to cut the pvc pipe
PVC cement
4 - 3/4" PVC pipes 46" long
4 - 3/4" PVC pipes 69-1/2" long
8 - 3/4" elbows
Cut the PVC pipes to length according to the dimensions given below.
On a clean, flat solid surface, lay out two long and two short pipes with the elbows for the left side.
Test fit the the parts to make a rectangle. If everything looks OK, apply cement to the inside surface for the first joint in the first elbow and outside end of it's mated pipe. Make sure that the pipe slides in all the way. Repeat for the other pipes -- each time laying the partially completed frame on the flat surface to insure that the frame will lay flat and not be twisted. When completed, set aside the frame and repeat for the right side.
Rear Wall:
saw to cut pipe
PVC cement
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe 35-1/2" long
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe 69-1/2" long
4 - 3/4" elbows
Make the rear frame just as you made the sides above.
Roof:
saw to cut pipe
PVC cement
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe 35-1/2" long
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe 47-1/2" long
4 - 3/4" elbows
Make the roof frame in the same way as the previous frames.
Front:
saw to cut pipe to length
PVC cement
3 - 3/4" PVC pipe cross pieces 35-1/2" long
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe short sides 3-1/2" long
2 - 3/4" PVC pipe long sides 69-1/2" long
4 - 3/4" elbows
2 - 3/4" tees
Cut the pipe to length.
See the photo above to understand how the front frame is put together. It calls for 3 cross pieces of pipe to form the top, curtain hanger and bottom of the frame. The sides contain two short pieces on the top glued to the elbows of the top cross piece, and the other end inserted in a side of a tee fitting. The center of the tee is glued to the curtain hanger pipe. the bottom of the tee is glued to the long side pipe. and the bottom of each side pipe is joined to the elbows of the bottom cross piece.
On a clean, flat solid surface, lay out the 3 cross pieces, the 4 elbows, the two tees and the short and long side pipes.
Test fit the the parts to make two joined rectangles - a small and a large. If everything looks OK, apply cement to the inside surface for the first joint in the first fitting and outside end of it's mated pipe. Make sure that the pipe slides in all the way. Repeat for the other pipes and fittings -- each time laying the partially completed frame on the flat surface to insure that the frame will lay flat and not be twisted.
This completes the Frame assembly. Next step, Enclosure: Covering the Frames
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I can point out a few facts that would support the supposition that this is a composting toilet.
It is common for a latrine to contain other materials than compost material making them also a garbage collection facility, this toilet's pit contains only organic materials.
While I personally would not readily grow vegetables in the compost of this toilet, it has been proven over many years in Africa to provide better nourishment for various fruit, nut bearing, banana and wood producing trees than unfertilized soil.
A pit latrine on the other hand by virtue of it's typical 6 foot depth would certainly have less effect on the growth of a tree planted above it, nor would I wish to grow a tree over garbage containing unknown contaminants.
Also, you miss the point completely regarding the purpose of this latrine - to provide nourishment for a tree which is part of an orchard or grove within a fairly short period of time (shallow pit) for a family without requiring purchasing chemical fertilizers.
The design also centers around the portability of the toilet to allow the family to move it some yards at a time every 6 months to a year to plant a tree.
A pit latrine shares no such common goal.
I could go on, but that would be pointless. I have made my case.