Ard-e: The robot with an Arduino as a brain by imadami
Contest Winner
Wheel sensors.BMP
Copy of final.JPG
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How to create an open source Arduino controlled robot for under $100.

Hopefully after reading this instructable you will be able to take your first step into robotics. Ard-e cost about $90 to $130 depending on how much spare electronics you have lying around. The main costs are:
Arduino Diecimella- $35 https://www.makershed.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=MKSP1
Bulldozer kit- $31 http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=70104
Servo- $10 I got mine at a local hobby store
Worm gear Motor- $12 http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=72004
Various other Electronics- around $10 radioshack or digikey.com
Sensors- anywhere from 0 dollars to $28 depending on how many you want and how extensive your pile of junk electronics is

So with spending around $100 you get a remote control robot with a pan and tilt system that could be used to aim a camera, a hacked airsoft gun ( http://inventgeek.com/Projects/Airsoft_Turret_v2/Overview.aspx ) or you could attach a laser to it because thats what you have lying around. If you wanted to be really cruel you could attach a dvd laser to it and burn whatever you wanted ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgJ0EpxjZBU )

In addition to making the pan and tilt system that is remote controlled you can also buy about three dollars worth of chips, attach sensors to Ard-e and make him fully autonomous. For around a hundred dollars you can build your own robotics system that has most of the functionality of a roomba or a lego-mindstorms robot: It can sense when it bumps into something be programmed to avoid what it bumps into, it can follow the brightest light, smell pollutants, hear sounds, know precisely how far it has gone, and be controlled by an old recycled remote control. All of this for about half of the price of commercial units.



This is my entry into the RobotGames robot contest so if you like it make sure to vote for it!

Note- Originally I was going to enter the remote controlled version only as my entry to the contest but since the deadline was pushed back Im gonna show you how to make Ard-e run himself.

So on to how to build Ard-e
 
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Step 1: Build your Bulldozer

dozerbox.jpg
So once you get your new bulldozer kit either in the mail or at your local hobby shop you have to put it together. These kits from Tamiya tend be a little on the expensive side but they are worth it. I found the worm gear box that I use to pan the laser in a box of old projects covered in dust, it hadnt been touched for maybe three years. After blowing off the dust and hooking it up it ran fine.

A pocket knife or leatherman should be all the tools you'll need to set up the bulldozer. The instructions are step by step and easy to follow even if the English is a little shaky. Since I wasn't planning on using Ard-e as a really weak bulldozer I didn't attach the plow.

The dc motors that drive the bulldozer are controlled by the double pole double throw (DPDT) switches that make up the controller. I added a diagram about how to hook up your own DPDT switch to control a motor because I later end up controlling the panning motor with another DPDT switch. Hopefully the diagram makes it clear that the switch when thrown one way makes the motor turn one way and when thrown the other it turns the other way.
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lean04 says: Dec 27, 2012. 1:43 PM
does it even lift?? ;-P
awesome robot and instructable, i´m trying to build a roomba bot while learning robotics (my knowledge go as far as H-bridge..), also i was thinking about buying an arduino board, now i´m ordering one stat!
congrats..
IansterAwesom3 says: Jul 6, 2012. 3:22 PM
Hey could a adruino uno work?
alien200049655 says: Jan 26, 2012. 8:07 PM
I tried to use your servo code, but I can't even get the Arduino IDE to compile it.


#include

int potPin = 2; // selects the input pin for the potentiometer
Servo servo1;
int val = 0; // variable to store the value coming from the potentiometer

void setup() {
servo1.attach(8); //selects the pin for the servo
}

void loop() {
val = analogRead(potPin); // read the value from the potentiometer
val = val / 5.68; //convert the value to degrees
servo1.write(val); //make the servo go to that degree
Servo::refresh(); //command needed to run the servo
}

=====================================================
The IDE seems to have a problem with the following line in your code:

Servo::refresh(); //command needed to run the servo

do you have a solution for this error?
I'm running the latest version of Arduino IDEs version 0023.
siidheesh says: Jan 27, 2012. 11:47 PM
The latest version of the Arduino IDE is 0100

and try using Servo.refresh();
fmbfla says: Nov 26, 2011. 5:01 AM
"One of the motors spins faster than the other so he veers towards the camera near the end of it. I don't really know why this happens".
Would this be caused by the first motor (#1) in line with the + would cause a voltage drop to motor (# 2)?. Would placing a resistor in line with M#1 control the voltage better?
Another possible work around for this is to use the chip to control the ground circuit from the motor.


Just a thought, as most DC motors in automotive interiors use "Hot" motors and use the PCM directly or the PCM controls micro relays to control the ground to operate.

NooB.
Cobalt59 says: Feb 27, 2011. 2:31 PM
Is that a toilet cleaning brush I see? (on the first picture) :) Nice 'ible!
lcona89 says: Dec 7, 2010. 8:46 PM
In the code are those declarations in the begging pin numbers?
lcona89 says: Dec 4, 2010. 1:33 PM
Anybody know how this was interfaced as a voltage divide?
cdousley says: Jul 7, 2010. 4:30 PM
NICE! I just need to add some sensors and wire it all up. im not going to do the thing to see how far he moves
Chowmix12 says: Jul 1, 2010. 7:03 AM
I love this instructable! 4/5* (becuase of the lack of code) Other than that Awesome! I really love how you made the robot with a lot of different functions..
photo.JPG
Chowmix12 says: Jun 27, 2010. 6:09 AM
where's the actual code for the light seeking behavior?
imadami (author) says: Jun 29, 2010. 2:13 PM
I forgot to post the code for it and it was written on my old laptop... I did it two different ways. The first way was with two light sensors mounted on the left and right sides and pointing forward. I then programmed it to spin the side that had a higher reading faster. The other way that I did it was to mount a single light sensor in the middle of A-rde on a servo and have the servo turn to the left right and middle and measure the light at these three points. Whichever was the brightest it would drive towards, stop and then make another measurement. I never really got good light seeking behavior...
Chowmix12 says: Jun 30, 2010. 7:50 PM
Also, try making adjustable eyes. Use solid core wires soldered onto the two LDR pins and then twist the wires together. there bendy yet they hold their shape. i found that the best way to get them to work is pointing them upwards, bent slightly away from each other...
Chowmix12 says: Jun 29, 2010. 3:24 PM
i tried the first method with the cds cells connected to analog pins 1 and 2. the analog pins had 10k ohm resitors going to ground and the other end of the cds cell went to +5v. I'll PM the code for what i used, I got excellent behavior, very accurate. BTW, i used a l298hn chip instead of the l239d, because i was able to sample it. You should change the code for the l239d, and I dont mind if you post it on the I'ble for others to use.
DELETED_craz meanman says: Nov 25, 2008. 10:13 AM
(removed by author or community request)
imadami (author) says: Nov 26, 2008. 8:06 PM
The tamiya motors are really good. Most have variable gear ratios so you can make it high speed or high torque. They hold up extremely well. I highly recommend them.
Chowmix12 says: Jun 29, 2010. 12:40 PM
how do i fix axle slippage on the drive sprocket?
imadami (author) says: Jun 29, 2010. 2:05 PM
Is the track or the actual metal axle slipping? If its the track make sure you have the right number of pieces of track and if its the axle make sure that its the hexagonal one that is driving the motors and that the gear is pushed all the way down on it.
Chowmix12 says: Jun 29, 2010. 3:11 PM
its the actual metal axle and the driv esprocket wheel thats slipping. The wheels insert has widened... i use tape to widen the axle but i have to replace it often.
cdousley says: Jun 28, 2010. 5:28 PM
I just ordered all the parts....
cdousley says: Jun 27, 2010. 4:16 PM
im going to build this ive got most of the stuff so its only gonna cost 42 dollars but i have a question could you give be the code you used in the video so when ard e runs into things he moves. thanks for your help.
cdousley says: Jun 26, 2010. 2:56 PM
Could i just use relays to make it drive the motors? I'm new with arduino and robots
Chowmix12 says: Jun 25, 2010. 10:53 AM
instead of the l293, i sampled the l298HN IC which is similar to the l293. but i got it for free...
D5quar3 says: May 19, 2010. 1:10 PM
 why are there pins coming out of the bottom of the schematic sorry im pretty new to this.
Chowmix12 says: Jun 17, 2010. 9:40 AM
the pins come out the bottom to make a simple design on the schematic. When actually building this, you should use the data sheet or any other reference to match the pin numbers on the schematic.
MACKattacksnipe says: Apr 11, 2010. 6:24 PM
use the joy with an X-bee and make a Ard-e wireless and a camera so you can remotely control it from your computer and maybe a weapon system!
evilgenius 398 says: Oct 20, 2008. 4:13 PM
love it here is a robot im making
bubba's robot 001.JPG
DELETED_craz meanman says: Nov 23, 2008. 3:33 PM
(removed by author or community request)
LordSnipe says: Nov 21, 2009. 8:26 AM
 it looks like it's a modified gasoline RC car with mounted bulldozer and a spud gun. looks awesome, but no visible robot bits. battle car might be a better description.

~snipe
fuzvulf says: Feb 14, 2009. 5:36 PM
Awesome instructable. Thanks for all the input. wanting to get a freeduino to start playing around with. Also thank your brother for the VOC, I know my cousin is going to freak when I finally get this worked out and the robot rolls up to his shoes and then waves it's little claw in front of it's sensor array/face does a 180 and speeds away.
me says: Nov 24, 2008. 12:18 PM
I really like it, I was thinking of buying an arduino, but now that I have seen this project I'm deffinately going to buy one. I'm thinking of making a mobile platform out of knex (instead of the bulldozer) I have a question though, I assume the motors from the bulldozer use 3v each and you hook up a 6v power supply because the L293 needs it, so how do you run the motors?
imadami (author) says: Nov 24, 2008. 1:27 PM
Originally i had the L293 hooked up with only 3V supplied to it and then attached another batter pack because it wasn't working. The motors held up fine probably because i usually don't run them at a full duty cycle for very long.
Xellers says: Sep 11, 2008. 1:44 PM
I noticed that in your first video you are apparently controlling the robot by means of some switches that are physically wired from your controller to the robot. May I suggest using a wireless transmitter and receiver to make it remote controlled? I'm sure it will be worth the extra $10 - $15 and several new lines of code.
learningmasters says: Aug 30, 2008. 8:09 PM
you should make a programmable paint ball gun like this then make an instructable awsome http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-JvxnrzB1Jk&feature=user
liseman says: Jul 13, 2008. 5:29 PM
groovy little brother! glad to see all my stolen electronics components going to a good use:)
robotkid249 says: Jul 17, 2008. 8:27 AM
Instead of using L293 to drive the motors, you could have also used a TIP120 transistor instead of spending senven dollars, or 20 for a driver.
zjharva says: Jul 9, 2008. 12:00 PM
I have arduino and the tank kit. I should make this!
imadami (author) says: Jul 10, 2008. 10:51 PM
Make sure you post a link to it if you do!
zjharva says: Jul 11, 2008. 10:17 AM
ok, i just have to get a servo and some other stuff
GWJax says: Jul 10, 2008. 4:20 PM
Nice Job!! I was using the same bulldozer platform for the wall-e testing until I got a u-command wall-e now the electronics are in that so I can finnish the progrmming. Plus I like your instructible nice layout too. congrats. a++
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