Introduction: Arduino-Controlled Robotic Drum

Picture of Arduino-Controlled Robotic Drum

For years I have been telling anyone who listens that I was going to build a robotic drum. Most people kind of shrugged indifferently. Even as I built it, most people kind of glanced over at it and conveyed doubtfulness. It seemed like no one but myself was convinced of just how awesome it was going to be.

I received a lot of snarky comments about how I was making a strange annoying noise maker. When I finally go it set up for the trial run, I quickly silenced the naysayers. This robotic drum blew everyone away. I was finally able to convey my vision and explain why someone would ever want to build a robotic drum.

The reason to build a robotic drum is because it is plain super-awesome. It keeps a beat like clockwork. You can slow down and speed up any drum beat with precision and ease. It can even play things a real human drummer could never do.

I intend to use mine for rocking out. The current plan is to program it with different drum beats and play guitar along with it.

I decided to use linear actuators (car door lock motors to be exact), and Arduinos with motor controller shields simply for ease of use and duplication. I am sure there are other more elegant ways to interface with the motors, but this is by far the easiest.

Step 1: Go Get Stuff

Picture of Go Get Stuff

You will need:

(x1) Drum set (Amazon)
(x12) Drum sticks (Amazon)
(x12) Car door lock actuator motor (Amazon)
(x6) Arduino Uno (Radioshack #276-128)
(x6) Arduino Motor Shield (Radioshack #276-131)
(x1) 7" x 5" x 3" project enclosure (Radioshack #270-1807)
(x1) European-style terminal strip (Radioshack #274-680)
(x2) 24' spool 18 AWG speaker wire (Radioshack #42-2456)
(x3) Panel mount M-type power socket (Radioshack #274-1563)
(x1) 1/4" mono jack (Radioshack #274-252)
(x1) 1/4" mono plug (Radioshack #274-1536)
(x1) 4" zip tie (Radioshack #278-1632)
(x1) Stranded 22 AWG red and black wire spools (Radioshack #278-1224)
(x1) Assorted shrink tube (Radioshack #278-1611)
(x3) 9V 1.5A power adapters (M-type plugs) (Radioshack #273-356)
(x1) Power strip (Radioshack #61-056)
(x1) 7 socket USB hub (Radioshack #55053562)
(x6) 6' USB A to B cable (Radioshack #55010623)
(x1) 4' x 8' x 1/4" plywood sheet
(x4) 1/2" pipe mounting flange
(x1) 24" x 1/2" threaded pipe
(x1) 18" x 1/2" threaded pipe
(x8) 1/2" pipe L-bracket
(x2) 1/2" pipe T-bracket
(x2) 1" threaded pipe
(x4) 2" threaded pipe
(x4) 2-1/2" threaded pipe
(x2) 3" threaded pipe
(x2) Cymbal stands
(x3) 3/4" x 10' 22 gauge steel hanger strap
(x16) 8 - 1/2" wood screws
(x20) 1/4 x 5" bolts
(x4) 1/4 x 2" bolts
(x1) Box of 1/4 nuts
(x22) 6-32 x 2" nuts and bolts
(x4) 6-32 x 1" nuts and bolts
(x11) 1-1/2" binding posts
(x20) 1-1/2" (1/4" i.d.) spacers
(x18) 4-40 x 1-1.2" nuts and bolts
(x18) 1/4" (1/8" i.d.) spacers

You will also need to download the attached files and laser cut (or cut the old fashioned way) the following:

(x16) Drum brackets
(x6) Cymbal brackets
(x4) Cymbal bracket circle spacers
(x2) Kick drum brackets

Step 2: Attach the Motor

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Take two of the pieces of the standard drum bracket (without Arduino mounting holes) and sandwich a motor in-between. Fasten it through the center mounting holes using 6-32 nuts and bolts.

Step 3: Make Another

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Pass 4-40 bolts through the Arduino mounting holes on one of the drum brackets and loosely hold them in place with bolts.

Once the bolts are passed through, make another motor bracket "sandwich" like you did in the last step.

Step 4: Motor Pair

Picture of Motor Pair

Pass a 5" x 1/4 bolt through on of the corner mounting holes in the motor bracket "sandwich" that is prepped for the Arduino.

Repeat for all of the other holes.

Thread a nut all the way down one of the bolts to hold it in place, and then repeat for all of the other bolts

Slide a spacer over each of the bolts and then thread more nuts on to hold them all in place.

Slide the other motor bracket "sandwich" onto the bolt.

Fasten everything securely in place with another nut.

Step 5: Drill a Hole

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Tape two drumsticks together and then fasten them securely into a vise in preparation for drilling.

Make a mark at 5-1/8" and 7-1/4".

Drill down through all of these marks with a 3/16" drill bit, to leave an identical pair of holes in each stick

Repeat this process 5 more times, to make 6 sets of drilled drum sticks.

Step 6: Attach Drum Sticks

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Grab the complete drum stick assembly.

Pass a binding post from the outside of the assembly through the corner pivot hole,  through the hole in the drumstick closer to the tip, and then through the inner pivot hole.

Fasten the binding post shut.

Zip tie the drum sticks to the motor assembly using the other drilled hole.

Repeat this process for the other motor.

Step 7: Build More

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After you build your first complete drum stick assembly, build three more.

Step 8: Glue and Clamp

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The motor bracket "sandwich" assembly for the hi hat cymbals requires and extra piece of wood attached on each side of the outside of the assembly.

To attach this wood piece, simply lay down a little bit of wood glue, align the pre-drilled 1/8" pilot holes, and then once aligned, clamp them in place.

Don't forget to make certain that one of the pieces you are gluing the wood piece to has holes for mounting the Arduino.

Step 9: Motor Brackets

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Take your brackets and make two more motor "sandwiches," such that when they are ultimately assembled, the pieces with the extra wood piece glued on will be facing outwards.

Step 10: Assemble

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Put together the motor assembly like previous motor assemblies, will paying special attention that the pieces with the extra wood piece glued on are facing outwards.

Step 11: Build the Mount

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Start with a T-bracket and thread a 3" section of threaded pipe on each end.

Connect L-brackets to each end of the respective threaded pipes.

Thread a 2" section of threaded pipe onto the end of each L-bracket.

Again, put L-brackets on the end of each respective threaded pipe.

Thread a 1" section of threaded pipe onto the end of each L-bracket.

Finally, attach flanges to the end of each threaded pipe.

Step 12: Attach

Picture of Attach

Slide the flange over the extra bit of wood on the drumstick assembly until they are aligned.

Rotate the flanges as necessary so that the pilot holes are aligned with the flange's mounting holes.

Fasten the drumstick assembly to the mounting bracket place with wood screws.

Step 13: 18" Pipe

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Attach the 18" threaded pipe to the base of the T-bracket.

Step 14: Connect Drum Sticks

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Using the binding posts, mount the drum sticks like you did for the previous drum stick assemblies.

Again, zip tie the drum sticks to the linear motor assembly.

Step 15: Clamp and Glue Again

Picture of Clamp and Glue Again

Again you will need to attach an extra wood piece to the wooden bracket sfor the cymbal assembly mount. However, because the cymbal only uses one stick, you only have two brackets and will need to glue the wood to each.

Make sure that when you do this, the extra piece of wood will be on the outside when you make your motor "sandwich."

Simply lay down a little bit of wood glue, align the pre-drilled 1/8" pilot holes, and then once aligned, clamp them in place.

Step 16: Assemble

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The cymbal drumstick assembly only has one motor "sandwich."

Assemble it accordingly, with the extra bits of wood facing out.

Don't forget to install the Arduino mounting screws as well.

Step 17: Build Another Mount

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Start with a T-bracket and thread a 2-1/2" section of threaded pipe on each end.

Connect L-brackets to each end of the respective threaded pipes.

Thread a 2-1/2" section of threaded pipe onto the end of each L-bracket.

Again, put L-brackets on the end of each respective threaded pipe.

Thread a 2" section of threaded pipe onto the end of each L-bracket.

Finally, attach flanges to the end of each threaded pipe.

Step 18: Fasten

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Connect the drum stick assembly to the pipe mount exactly like you did for the hi hat assembly.

Step 19: 24" Pipe

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Attach the 24" threaded pipe to the base of the T-bracket.

Step 20: Connect the Drum Stick

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Once more, mount the drum sticks like you did for the previous drum stick assemblies, and then zip tie the drum sticks to the linear motor assembly.

Step 21: Prepare the Kick Drum Pedal

Picture of Prepare the Kick Drum Pedal

Detach the foot pedal and chain from the kick drum pedal.

Remove the spring that is keeping tension on the pedal's rotational assembly.

Using the mounting holes in the wooden bracket as a guide, drill 1/4" holes on both sides of the pedal. This should result in 2 holes on each side of the pedal.

Step 22: Attach

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Attach the wooden brackets with 1/4 nuts and bolts to the kick drum pedal assembly using the holes that you have just drilled.

Step 23: Spacers

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Dissemble two pens so you are left only with the pen tube.

Insert 5" x 1/4 bolts through the bracket's structural mounting holes, using the pens as spacers in-between the two.

Fasten each bolt firmly in place with a nut.

Step 24: Attach Motor

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Line up the shaft of the linear motor assembly with the rotational pivot of the kick drum pedal assembly that the spring used to be attached to.

Attach the motor to the wooden bracket using 6-32 nuts and bolts.

Zip tie the motor shaft to the rotational pivot of the kick drum pedal.

Step 25: Socket

Picture of Socket

Wire the 1/4" socket to the motor on the kick drum assembly such that the ground wire from the motor is connected to the tip, and the other wire is connected to the barrel of the jack.

If the motor does not have red or black wires, designate one of the colors to be ground and the other to be power. In this case, the green wire will be ground.

Step 26: Jack

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Take apart the 1/4" plug, and go grab about 5' of speaker wire.

Solder the marked edge of the speaker wire to the ground terminal.

Solder the unmarked edge to the tip terminal.

Reassemble the plug when you are done.

Step 27: Snare

Picture of Snare

Attach one of the drumstick brackets to the snare drum by passing the steel hanger strap through the thin vertical mounting slots in the brackets and wrapping it around the drum. Fasten it tightly in place with 6-32 nuts, and bolts.

Step 28: Toms

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Attach a drum stick assembly to the toms like you did the snare drum.

Step 29: Floor Tom

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Attach a drum stick assembly to the floor tom like you did the other toms and the snare drum.

Step 30: Cymbal Strikers

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Insert the rods from the cymbal striker assemblies into the extra cymbal stands.

Step 31: Kick Drum

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Attach the motor-controlled kick drum pedal to the drum.

Step 32: Plug in the Shields

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The motor shields need to be plugged into each of the respective Arduinos.

However, before you go and do this, bend the shields Vin pin so that it will not plug in to the Arduino. This is done to prevent the Arduino from getting directly connected to the voltage input on the motor controller, which is rather high and runs the risk of spiking.

Alternately, if you don't want to preserve this functionality on the shield, cut the pin away entirely.

Step 33: Program the Arduinos

Picture of Program the Arduinos
Upload each respective Arduino with the code below.

Hi Hat Arduino:

Snare Arduino:

Cymbal, and Kick Drum Arduino:

Small Tom Arduino:

Large Tom Arduino:

Floor Tom Arduino:

Step 34: Attach

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Once all of the Arduinos are programmed, you will want to affix them to the drum stick assemblies.

Remove the nuts from the Arduino mounting bolts that were inserted earlier.

Next, slide 1/4" spacers onto the bolts.

Finally, mount the Arduino using these bolts and fasten them firmly in place with nuts.

Step 35: Extend

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If necessary, extend all of the motor wires so that they are long enough to plug into the motor shield.

Cover any exposed wires with heat shrink tubing.

Step 36: Plug

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Plug the wires from each motor into either Channel A or Channel B on the motor shield.

For the most part, it is not really important which is which, so long as it is a single motor to a single channel.

The one exception to this rule is the Arduino that controls the kick drum and the cymbal, but we will touch more on this in a moment.

Step 37: Drill

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Make 3 side-by-side marks, about an inch apart, centered on each 7" x 3" side of the case.

Drill each of this marks with a 5/16" drill bit.

Step 38: Jacks

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Wire each of the jacks such that the positive red wire is connected to the center terminal and the black wire is connected to the outer terminal.

Mount the jacks  into three of the holes side-by-side on one side of the case.

Step 39: Wire It Up

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Connect the wires from each of the jacks into the European terminal strip.

Wire them up such that it is alternating power and ground, and each jack is supplying power to two pairs on the strip. In other words, each jack should be supplying power and ground twice.

Connect the speaker wire to the first pair so that the marked edge of the wire is going to ground and the unmarked edge is going to power. Repeat this for all subsequent pairs.

Step 40: Case Closed

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Pass the wires in pairs of two through each of the three respective holes in the case.

Make sure the terminals strip is nicely situated inside the box.

Put the lid onto the power box and fasten it shut.

Step 41: Set Up

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Install the toms above the kick drum as you normally would for any other drum kit.

The snare and floor tom (not pictured) can just stand on the floor in their typical places.

Step 42: Cymbals

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Adjust the height of the drumstick assemblies such that they strike the cymbal and hi-hat reliably. This may take some fussing about.

These cymbals and strikers can then be positioned in their normal drum kit location.

Step 43: Plug Some Stuff In

Picture of Plug Some Stuff In

Take a speaker wire from the power supply box, and plug the marked edge of the speaker wire into the ground input socket on one of the motor shields. Next, plug the unmarked edge into the power socket on the shield. Repeat this process five times, for all of the motor shields.

Plug the marked edge of the 1/4" plug cable into the "Motor A" minus terminal on the cymbal assembly's motor shield. Plug the unmarked edge into the plus terminal of the cymbal assembly's motor shield. Insert the 1/4" plug into the 1/4" jack on the kick drum.

Plug the three 9V power adapters into the power strip, and insert their barrel plugs into the M-type jacks on the power supply box.

Plug a USB wire into each of the Arduinos and then plug them all into the USB hub.

Step 44: Sequence

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To use the drum kit, first connect the USB hub to your computer and make sure the power strip is powered on.

Next, visit the Max MSP site and download Max5 Runtime (Mac / Windows).

Download the attached zip file with the "robo drums sequencer57600" Max patch.

Run "robo drums sequencer57600.maxpat" using Max5 Runtime.

This Max patch was created by the amazing Amanda Ghassaei - Max MSP Ninja and loosely certified Instructables Genius. This project would have taken much longer, and probably have not been quite as awesome, without her world class Max MSP skills.


U04601 (author)2017-10-19

I made one set of drum sticks to see if it might work to build a "little drummer boy" prop for my Christmas light display. Instead of using the custom program, I used a different sketch so that the drum sticks could read data from Vixen. Vixen is a sequencing program used to synchronize Christmas lights to music. It works well, I just have not finished making it into the final form yet.

Thanks for the inspiration, templates and instructions.

stang75 (author)2017-08-16

Dear Randofo,

Why did you have 2 sticks/motors and 1 arduino per drum?

Why not have 1 drum stick per drum, and therefore 1 arduino servicing 2 drums, thus halving the number of arduinos, motors and motor shields?

Thank you though - its a nice project and you've helped me a lot with my similar project.

RichGirlsDallas (author)2017-07-20

Any tips on programming songs into the sequencer?

i.saralynn (author)2017-06-07

Is there a risk of the motor (door lock actuators) burning out? Aren't they not designed to be triggered so often? Mine get warm fast. Also does anyone have a noise problem with their motors or know of a way to dampen them? Mine are practically as loud as the drum. Thank you!

randofo (author)i.saralynn2017-06-08

Like all mechanical assemblies, they will eventually begin to fail. You could potentially buy an actuator with a longer shelf-life, but it's going to be considerably more money. You could probably burn through quite a few of these before you would match the cost of a fast-action linear actuator.

Alternately, you could mess around with solenoids. Personally, I preferred working with the motors to working with spring-return solenoids.

I always found them to be loud-ish, but nowhere near as loud as the drum.

i.saralynn (author)randofo2017-06-11

So I replaced the motor with a new one and it is quieter than the one I was using... maybe that one was starting to fail and I just didn't notice how it got louder over time. Do you have a specific recommendation for using an actuator with a longer shelf life? I think I'd rather pay the higher cost than having to trek to a gallery and baby sit it during an exhibition. I haven't been able to find a solenoid that seems comparable to what these motors do.

randofo (author)i.saralynn2017-06-14

A friend was using actuators of this brand to make a robotic corporate lobby display with a short travel / fast action, but they were about $200 a piece:

Or you could try shopping for actuators from Ali Express and buy them direct from China. My ballpark guess is it would be $50 -$100 from there.

i.saralynn (author)i.saralynn2017-06-07

I should add I am using just the kick drum portion of this project that is part of an art piece that will be on 7 hours a day for two months, and beating every 1-40 seconds during those 7 hours. (hence concern about durability)

randofo (author)i.saralynn2017-06-08

To be honest, I no longer have the drum kit, but in the entire time I had it and used it, I never had to replace any of the motors.

Nevertheless, let's say it is going twice a second (120 per minute), which would give us about 840 strikes a day. For arguments sake, let us make it an even 900.

Then, if it is running for 60 days it needs to make about 54,000 strikes.

I would guess to be conservative you would need about 3 - 4 of the motors to swap out over the course of the exhibit.

You also probably want to have an extra of all of the electronics as well.

i.saralynn (author)randofo2017-06-09

Gotchya, thank you for the advice!

cdfludres (author)2016-04-17

Hello to all,

I am making this robot but I do not manage to program arduino. I bought compatible, the same for the motor shield ( dkelectronics ). Somebody would have programs it? Need particular libraries to be installed? Thank you in advance in all for your help?

Bonjour à tous,

Je suis en train de faire ce robot mais je n'arrive pas à programmer les arduino. J'ai acheté des compatibles, idem pour le motor shield (dkelectronics). Quelqu'un aurait il le programme ? Y at-il des bibliothèques particulières à installer ? Merci d'avance à tous pour votre aide.

Alieno77 (author)cdfludres2016-11-09

my 2 cents: this is a good project, but that motor make too noise. Use instead solenoid with a midi board (higly liquid or similar).

i.saralynn (author)Alieno772017-06-07

Hi! I agree with the noise issue. Do you have a specific recommendation on what to swap it out with? I don't need it to connect with midi, just looking for a motor/solenoid that is quieter and can be mounted in a similar way like it is for the kick drum portion of this project.

Alieno77 (author)i.saralynn2017-06-07

Try with solenoid 12v made by Uxcell...but you will need at least 1A

randofo (author)cdfludres2016-06-17

Did you ever get the Arduino programmed?

theGNARTeam (author)randofo2016-07-30

hi randofo,
the arduino is programmed fine it seems. the little orange light blinks according to the sequencer... It just doesnt fire the motors. The motor shield im using is the new adafruit one, different from the one you use. Something must need to be changed in the void setup... any clues would be much appreciated...

randofo (author)theGNARTeam2016-08-01

Hello. They are by two different manufacturers and likely work differently. There is not a universal motor shield protocol.

At the very least, the input and ouput pins are presumably different and need to be reassigned. Most likely, the manner in which you trigger the pins could also be different. You should try to control the motors by using/modifying the example code for the Adafruit motor library.

Alieno77 made it! (author)2017-04-01

It work! :)

CharlieG49 (author)2017-02-23

Awesome project, and great tutorial. I'd love to make an adaptation of this for my son with cerebral palsy. He uses a switch to activate things like toys and I was wondering if there would be any way to use this simple switch as a way to activate a single bass drum? I'm handy, but not experienced with electrical. Any way to do this using the door lock actuator with a single switch? I'd love the mallet to hit the drum when he hits the switch, and come back when he releases. Any ideas?

randofo (author)CharlieG492017-02-23

Well... This should be a simple problem to solve, but might take some experimenting...

I believe that the force of striking the drum forced the pedal to spring back on its own (if I remember correctly). However, I sold this off a while back when I moved cross country, so I can't say this for definite.

If that works, it should be as simple as wiring the motor, the switch, and a 9V - 12V power source in series together.

In this scenario, (theoretically) tap the button, it strikes it and bounces back. Not sure what would happen if you keep the button held down...

However, if it does not bounce back, you will need to build a circuit to reverse the motor when the button is released. You could get a momentary DPDT pushbutton switch, and wire it in such a way that when it is pressed it goes forward, and when it is released, the power gets reversed and goes backwards. The tricky bit here is that you would then need another switch that the pedal physically hits to turn off the circuit when it is fully retracted (as not to burn out the motor since it will be constantly powered in reverse when the button is not pressed).

Basically... you essentially want a useless machine circuit with a pushbutton switch instead of a lever switch... You can learn more about useless machines here:

Higher tech... you could use an Arduino with a motor shield to sense a button press, then control the motor using the motor shield to engage the motor in one direction and then reverse. Basically, a very simplified version of what I built here.

T0BY (author)2016-12-03

This is incredible!

CarraN (author)2016-06-13

wow! such a project!

one question master: does it interact with dynamics ?


randofo (author)CarraN2016-06-17

Not currently, but I don't see why it couldn't be altered to do so.

saltp8 (author)randofo2016-11-12

How could i implement the dynamics? I'm new to this world....any GENERALS recommendations will be important.

CarraN (author)randofo2016-06-20

maybe because the door locks aren't so good for that purpose ?..

saltp8 (author)2016-11-12

Is it possible to control the velocity of each drumstick?

JonathanF75 (author)2016-06-16

This project is sick. I love it.

I actually saw this Instructable in like 2013 and tried to build it then but couldn't make it work. But now I have 1 built for the snare drum and it works (so excited). i want to make a battery powered version using a rechargeable lithium ion, 11.1V, 2300 mA battery. my question is if the the code comes with some sort of brownout detection.



theGNARTeam (author)JonathanF752016-07-30

are you using the new adafruit motorshield?

randofo (author)JonathanF752016-06-17

Hi. No brownout detection. The code is kind of crude. I don't imagine it would be hard to write some. I actually begrudgingly sold off this project when I moved across the country to a smaller apartment. I'm therefor not currently doing any more development on it.

You should post a picture of what you make! :)

JonathanF75 (author)randofo2016-07-05

thank you, I have another question: would cutting off 4 inches from the back end of the 5B drumstick affect the performance? (this would leave only about an inch of length behind from where the zip tie is attached)

I guess i'm wondering if the code incorporates the weight of the back of the drumstick (like physics calculations or something)

I just want to cut the drumstick to where the bracket is and not extend further like it's currently designed

sorry for all the questions, I havne't really looked at the code and I don't know how much thought had to be put into it.

thank you,


AkashP29 (author)2016-01-15

the Max command shows specified serial port not available , what to do?

Quswar (author)2015-12-12

If you have done this, can you tell me how to get started with Sequencer?

theGNARTeam (author)Quswar2015-12-27

once you upload the arduino code to the arduino, you open the robodrumssequencer57600.maxpat file. you just double click the file. while the sequencer is running, the arduino is responding in real time.

i know this because the lights on the arduino are flashing to the beat.

where i'm stuck is where to plug the motor wires into the arduino.

i have the newer version of the Motor Sheild (2.3) and instead of channels A,B.. they are labeled M1, M2, M3... i wonder if this means i have to change the code in the arduino sketch?

Quswar (author)2015-12-12

Can I know how to start Sequencer? It's not working on my Microsoft Windows 8.1

Alieno77 (author)Quswar2015-12-12

I use Windows 7 and MaxRuntime 5.0.

Insert sketch in arduino -> connect PC to Arduino (with external power) -> run Max -> open robotdrumsequencer.

jryan5 (author)2014-11-19

Hi there!

thanks for taking the time to post your work!

I have built what you have shown us, but mine has bugs like crazy.

I'll do a little write up but issues include steps being dropped/triggers not responding properly to the information that has been sequenced in the runtime screen.

At the moment, Max runtime won't even connect with my triggers! The interface looks all janky and stripped down when it's not communicating at you know what I mean by that? I'll post a screen shot when post my conclusions.

Amanda, unfortunately, hasn't responded to some inquiries I had made via PM about the script and such, whether you guys know about potential bugginess and the like.\

I'm sure she's quite busy.

Thanks so much again for sharing!

Please hit me up!


Igor Angst (author)jryan52015-02-26


I made one of these awesome robot drummers, at least the one for the snare drum for the beginning. I also found the Arduino code to be buggy. I figured out that the motor direction was in fact reversed (needed to replace HIGH and LOW), and that the serial communication was broken: Here, the term "(Serial.available() > 8)" is the problem, since it wait for 8 bytes (!) pending in the serial line before doing anything.

I managed to fix these issues and now the robot drums like a charm. However, I changed a lot of stuff in the code, since I am running Linux and I'm using my own software MIDI interface based on ALSA. If you are interested in the code, drop me a line.



Alieno77 (author)Igor Angst2015-07-17

Hi Igor, I have the same problem of jryan5. Can you send me your new sketch? I send you also a PM. Please, help me!

theGNARTeam (author)Alieno772015-12-06

hey, did you get a response?

Alieno77 (author)theGNARTeam2015-12-06

no, but finally I do it! :)
Max Runtime work well, you have only to plug-in the pc to arduino BEFORE run the program.

(sorry for my bad english)

Quswar (author)Alieno772015-12-12

If you have done this, can you tell me how to get started with Sequencer?

Gabrielfiringmusic (author)2015-07-29

How much does this project cost all together?

mark.diaz.58118 (author)2015-04-22

totally cool. Must digital drum machines have a circuit that adds milllisecond variation so it sounds more human than mechanical. There may be similar variation to this project due to the nature of the materials. regardless, WHAT A COOL BUILD!!!

jamesbrosuk (author)2015-02-09

I tried this, but mine failed, i'm going to learn a bit more about programming before starting again, thanks for the info though

jryan5 (author)jamesbrosuk2015-02-11

What were your issues?

martin.tinmar.142 (author)2014-10-22


henryd106 (author)2014-07-25

You, my friend, have way too much time on your hands. I respect that. Anyways, this is awesome.

Reese_Rules (author)2014-04-06

Great job on this instructable. I have only 1 question… How much does it cost?

thank you,


JayProximity (author)2014-03-19

I ran the code on code bender and it would not work, can you please explain how it works.

mr. steinke (author)2012-09-20

About This Instructable




Bio: My name is Randy and I founded the Instructables Design Studio. I'm also the author of the books 'Simple Bots,' and '62 Projects to ... More »
More by randofo:Large Motor ProjectsRemove a Wheelchair Motor BrakeBuild a Robot
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