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After the success of my Arduino Uno I2C Master board, I started thinking that I could improve the board. Well ... make it more extensible for one thing, and allow me to use the board for other stuff as well. I figured if I could break out the pinouts of the ATMEGA328P-PU, that I could have a board that I could use for more than just the I2C Master, but that I could use for that purpose too. Also, I could add and ICSP header to the board so that I would have less juggling of chips and boards.

That became my goal for another breakout board/Arduino Uno self-build.

Step 1: Bill of Materials

The BOM for this instructable are as follows:

  • 1 x ATMEGA328P-PU
  • 2 x 100nF Electrolytic Capacitors
  • 2 x 22pF Ceramic Capacitors
  • 1 x 0.1 uF Ceramic Capacitor
  • 1 x female 6 pin header (90 degree)
  • 1 x female 6 pin header
  • 1 x female 5 pin header
  • 2 x female 4 pin header
  • 1 x female 3 pin header
  • 1 x female 2 pin header
  • 2 x male 3 pin header
  • 1 x power plug
  • 1 x 10k ohm Resistor
  • 1 x 5V Voltage Regulator
  • 1 x 16 Mhz crystal
  • 1 x 80x50mm single sided PCB
  • 4 x 15mm M3 bolts
  • 4 x 12mm threaded nylon spacers
  • 1 x 80x50mm 2mm acrylic sheet
  • 4 x rubber feet

Like the bulk of my breakout circuits, I'll be mounting the board on an acrylic prototype board.

Pretty much all of the parts for this instructable were bought from eBay with the following exceptions:

  • Acrylic sheet - bought from the hardware store
  • M3 bolts and nylon spacers - bought from Jaycar
  • Rubber feet - bought from the supermarket

Gonna try and make this today.
<p>Excellent, bigone5500, if you need any help or advice, feel free to ask ... also, don't forget to post an &quot;I Made It!&quot; with your results.</p>
Did you use plain paper b or glossy photo?
<p>Actually, bigone5500, have a look at my </p><p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/3-Axis-EasyDriver-PCB-Part-1/" rel="nofollow">https://www.instructables.com/id/3-Axis-EasyDriver-PCB-Part-1/</a></p><p>instructable, step 3 and 4 have a bit more detail and might be easier to follow than my brief description ...</p>
<p>Hey bigone5500, ya know there are a lot of people out there that say that you need to use glossy paper, or photo stock, or old magazines. I just use plain 80gsm paper, usually the cheapest that I can get from the stationers or the supermarket. When I've used glossy paper, the finish on the paper transfers to the board and makes it nigh on impossible to remove, so I gave it up after only 2 attempts.</p><p>The trick that I've found works very well and has resulted in a huge improvement in my toner heat transfer is simply to scour/key the copper before I transfer.</p><p>My process is to:</p><p>1. clean the board with isopropyl alcohol</p><p>2. rub the board with a nylon scourer OR a very fine grade sandpaper</p><p>3. transfer with a hot iron</p><p>4. immerse the board (with paper) into a vessel with near boiling water</p><p>5. leave the board until the water has cooled</p><p>6. rinse the board and rub the paper off with my fingers</p><p>7. get any remaining paper off with a toothbrush</p><p>if some paper fibres remain ... soak and repeat 6 and 7</p><p>When I've cleaned the board as much as possible, I then go over the traces under a magnifying glass and touch up any dodgy bits with a Staedler Lumocolor marker (water proof).</p><p>A good repeatable process is worth it to avoid rework and crap transfers.</p><p>Good luck!</p>
<p>Cool project. Thanks for sharing.</p>
<p>Thanks Jason, it's always nice to get feedback!</p>

About This Instructable

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Bio: I have been working in IT since the mid 1980's. Most of that has been database and application development. I've been working on ... More »
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