Arduino Lilypad Interactive Passion Sensing Scarf

Step 6 Arduino Sketch

I have added Ethan Dicks original sheep sculpture sketch to this step. I will add an updated sketch file at a later date when I have finalized the design. This will at least get you started with two working scarves.

 

/*++
  Sheep -  Use a combination of RGB and IR LEDs and a photosensor to imitate
           crowd-reactive (emergent) behavior
         
  This code goes with the Fuse Factory Workshop "Make an Emergent Behavior Sculpture
  With The Arduino"
  
  http://thefusefactory.org/2009/09/03/make-an-emergent-behavior-sculpture-with-the-arduino/
  
  The scultpture, or "sheep", is an artistic assemblage of a Lilypad Pro kit (Lilypad
  base attached to a Lilipad 5V power unit) with a tri-color LED mounted over the 328V
  MCU on the Lilypad board.  A Large Lilypad Protoboard sits between the PSU and the
  Lilypad itself to route power and to hold resistors and the IR components.  The illusion
  of a quadraped is completed by 1W and 2W LEDs soldered to the PSU "body" and bent as legs.
  
  The code depends on a persistent variable called "mood" - when it is zero or near zero,
  the sheep is "happy".  Below zero and the sheep is "lonely"; above zero and the sheep
  feels crowded or agitated.  Loneliness is represented by blue, happiness by green, and
  agitation by red.  In between expressing "mood" (using PWM to shade the RGB LED), the
  main part of the code checks for IR pulses from other sheep and may emit its own pulses
  to "call out" to other sheep.  By tweaking internal variables, the sheep can be more or
  less sensitive to the calls of other sheep.  The emergent behavior comes out when
  multiple sheep are assembled and placed on a table, calling out to each other.  The
  flurry of IR pulses can induce the sheep to be happy or perhaps agitated.  Few pulses
  and the sheep exhibits loneliness. 

  Sheep.pde - turn an Arduino into an emergent behavior sculpture
  
    Copyright (C) 2009, Ethan Dicks

    This program is free software: you can redistribute it and/or modify
    it under the terms of the GNU General Public License as published by
    the Free Software Foundation, either version 3 of the License, or
    (at your option) any later version.

    This program is distributed in the hope that it will be useful,
    but WITHOUT ANY WARRANTY; without even the implied warranty of
    MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE.  See the
    GNU General Public License for more details.

    You should have received a copy of the GNU General Public License
    along with this program.  If not, see .


--*/

/*++

  Variable initialization - before the code start, put all of the user-adjustable
                            parameters at the top so they are easy to tweak.
                            
--*/
// Definitions of "mood" values
#define MOODMAX 80
#define MOODMIN (-1 * MOODMAX)

#define LONELY (MOODMIN)
#define HAPPY (0)
#define CROWDED (MOODMAX)
#define MSTEPS 5

#define BLEAT_VOLUME 1

// Global definitions of pin assigments (to simplify individual function calls) 
int statusPin = 13; 	// onboard status LED is connected to digital pin 13
int redPin    = 11; 	// R petal on RGB LED module connected to digital pin 11
int greenPin  =  9; 	// G petal on RGB LED module connected to digital pin 9
int bluePin   = 10; 	// B petal on RGB LED module connected to digital pin 10
int sensorPin =  5;     // IR phototransistor connected to digital pin 5
int irPin     =  6;     // IR LED connected to digital pin 6

// Start off expecting to be happy	 
int mood = HAPPY;

// Keep track of the sense of the input pin
int eye = 0;

// And remember how "loud" we are "bleating" (flashing our IR LED)
int bleat = BLEAT_VOLUME;

/*++

  setup() - The Arduino environment will call the code in setup() one time
            only, right after the board is reset.
            
  Put code in this function to initialize I/O pins and such - things that
  only need to be done once during a run.
  
--*/
void setup() 	 
{ 	
 
  // for debugging
  Serial.begin(9600);
  Serial.println("Sheep v0.02");

  // Mostly, our I/O pins are outputs to LEDs  
  pinMode(statusPin, OUTPUT); 	// sets the statusPin to be an output

  pinMode(redPin, OUTPUT); 	// sets the redPin to be an output
  pinMode(greenPin, OUTPUT); 	// sets the greenPin to be an output
  pinMode(bluePin, OUTPUT); 	// sets the bluePin to be an output
         
  pinMode(irPin, OUTPUT); 	// sets the irPin to be an output

  // One exception is the IR phototransistor
  pinMode(sensorPin, INPUT); 	// sets the sensorPin to be an input

  Serial.print("Setting IR 'bleat' to ");
  Serial.println(bleat);
  
  analogWrite(irPin, bleat);
  
} 	 

/*++

  loop() - the Arduino environment will call the code in this loop forever.
  
  Put interesting things in here that are meant to run endlessly after setup()
  is called once.
  
  The only way out of this loop is to reset the board.
  
--*/
void loop() 	// run over and over again
{ 
  // Set our RGB LED to reflect our "mood", which will hopefully change from time to time
  set_mood(mood);
  
  // Slow down how fast we react to other 'sheep'
  delay(100); 	// delay for .1 second

  // sensorPin has a 10K pullup resistor, so *no* light reports a 1.  We need to
  // invert the logical sense of the pin if we want to think of the light logically
  // as 1-is-on/0-is-off
  eye = 1 - digitalRead(sensorPin);    // set eye to 1 if we "see" any IR light

  // Report our present status everytime through the loop  
  Serial.print("Mood is ");
  Serial.print(mood);
  Serial.print(".  Sensor is ");
  Serial.println(eye);
  
  // If we see pulses from another 'sheep', increment the mood, but not past MOODMAX
  if (eye) {
    // since humans cannot "see" infrared light, use the status LED as a visible indicator
    digitalWrite(statusPin, HIGH);  // echo IR input detection on the status LED
    mood += MSTEPS * 2;
    if (mood >MOODMAX) {
      mood = MOODMAX;
    }
  }
  // If we don't see any IR pulses, decrement the mood, but not below MOODMIN
  else {
    // since humans cannot "see" infrared light, use the status LED as a visible indicator
    digitalWrite(statusPin, LOW);  // echo IR input detection on the status LED
    mood -= 1;
    if (mood < MOODMIN) {
      mood = MOODMIN;
    }
  }
} 

/*++
  set_mood - convert "mood" to a color scheme
  
  Mood varies from some negative number to that same value as a positive number
  (so far, -80/+80 and -100/+100 produce reasonable results).

  Proportionally, the continuum of mood to color mapping resembles the following:
  
                    Mood
  -100                0                +100

  Lonely     ->     Happy      ->     Crowded

R   0        0        0        30       100
G   0        30      100       70        0
B  100       70       0         0        0

--*/
void set_mood (int mood)
{
  // Start out with each color being off - adjust upwards based on "mood"
  unsigned char redness   = 0;
  unsigned char greenness = 0;
  unsigned char blueness  = 0;

#ifdef DEBUG
  Serial.print("Mood is ");
  Serial.println(mood);
#endif

  // blueness is all about mood being less then happy 
  if (mood < HAPPY) {
      blueness  = abs(mood);
      greenness = MOODMAX + mood;
  }
  // redness is all about mood being more than happy
  else if (mood > HAPPY) {
      redness   = mood;
      greenness = MOODMAX - mood;
  }
  // greenness is about mood being around happy
  else {
      greenness = MOODMAX;
  }
  
  // Set the LED to reflect our present mood
  color(redness, greenness, blueness);
  
}

/*++

  color(r, g, b) - set the tri-color LED to the requested color value
  
  Uses analogWrite(pin, value) to set PWM value for each individual LED color

  The Tri-color LED is a common-anode device, so to make light, we ground the
  desired pin.  To invert the PWM waveform, we subtract our desired intensity
  from 255, so that, for example, if we want red off, logically, we pass around
  a value of zero, but set the PWM value to 255 so that the pin is driven high
  100% of the time.  To get red to the maximum brightness, we pass around a
  logical value of 255, but set the PWM value to 0, pulling that pin low 100%
  of the time.

--*/ 
void color (unsigned char red, unsigned char green, unsigned char blue)     // the color generating function
{ 
#ifdef DEBUG
  Serial.print("color(");
  Serial.print(red,HEX);
  Serial.print(blue,HEX);
  Serial.print(green,HEX);
  Serial.println(")");
#endif

  // invert the sense of the PWM value when calling analogWrite() for each color
  analogWrite(redPin, 255-red); 	 
  analogWrite(bluePin, 255-blue);
  analogWrite(greenPin, 255-green);
  
} 	 

Comments

[Grumpy Mike]

This circuit will damage your arduino.
It has an arduino output pin effectively shunting current across the LED. With a resistor of 56R and a voltage of 5V this will cause a current of 90mA to flow through the arduino pin. The limit for such current, that is the value where it will start causing damage is 40mA, so it is almost twice overloaded. Even if you run the lilypad at 3v3 you are still going to pull 59mA and exceed the damage threshold. To keep it safe the 56R resistor has to be at least 125R but better would be 133R.
You might not notice the damage straight away but exceeding the manufacturer's ratings is a sure way to shorten the like of any electronic component.