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Build an Arduino-powered version of the "Four Letter Word Generator" (FLW). This version generates "words" on the fly - it does not use a list. The "original" version from the 1970's used B7971 nixie alphanumeric tubes. These tubes are getting hard to find and they're certainly expensive. They also require interfacing with high voltage and an understanding of multiplexing.
This version uses a slightly more modern and easier to use display while maintaining the overall glowy, multi-segment look of the original. The Siemens DL2146T is a 4-character, 16-segment (plus dot) intelligent display. It has built-in drive and an ASCII font table. You basically send it seven bits of ASCII along with a couple more bits that select the position and control reset, blanking and chip select. It uses "a lot" of pins but we're not doing anything else so the available outputs on a ATMEGA168 are plenty.
An Arduino beginner with good soldering skills should be able to complete this.
This version uses a slightly more modern and easier to use display while maintaining the overall glowy, multi-segment look of the original. The Siemens DL2146T is a 4-character, 16-segment (plus dot) intelligent display. It has built-in drive and an ASCII font table. You basically send it seven bits of ASCII along with a couple more bits that select the position and control reset, blanking and chip select. It uses "a lot" of pins but we're not doing anything else so the available outputs on a ATMEGA168 are plenty.
An Arduino beginner with good soldering skills should be able to complete this.
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Signing UpStep 1Parts List
1x Siemens DL2416T display
This is an obsolete part, but it is generally available. You should pay less than $20 USD for it.
Here are some websites that had it in stock at the time of publishing this instructable:
http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=DL2416T
http://www.intertexelectronics.com/DL2416T-160-Red-4-Character-16Seg-Alphanumeric-Intelligent-Display-P8698.aspx
http://www.electronicsurplus.com/item/39202/
1x Atmel ATMEGA168
Buy this wherever you get the best price. You can get it with the bootloader already installed if you want.
An ATMEGA328 will work but is overkill. An ATMEGA8 might also work but I have not personally tried it.
1x 28-pin narrow DIP socket or 2x 14 pin DIP sockets
1x 40-pin DIP socket
1x PB400 protoboard from Wright Hobbies http://www.wrighthobbies.net/
Feel free to use whatever you want, but this is a great quality protoboard and it is cheap, esp. if you buy a five-pack.
This board is double-sided, real fiberglass, tinned and all the holes are through-hole-plated.
You'll appreciate how nicely it solders and how well you can unsolder without ripping up pads.
1x 1 ft 16-conductor rainbow ribbon cable
Try jameco.com for this one; it's not mandatory but the colors help keep you from messing up the bus wiring.
2x 0.1 uf mono caps
2x 22uf 16v radial electrolytic caps (anything 10uf - 47uf is fine)
1x 16mhz ceramic resonator
1x 10k Ohm 1/4 watt resistor
1x 2.1mm power jack 1 mm lead size
Try moderndevice.com - use the one they sell for the RBBB
1x 5v switchmode wall power supply
Try bgmicro.com - they have a 5v 2a for $3.99
I used to make my own linear regulator setups on-board for wall-powered stuff, but a regulated switchmode supply
is so much more efficien and they are cheap, so I no longer bother.
Make sure to observe the polarity of your adaptor. Most use center positive. Adapt your wiring for the jack if necessary.
1x 8" x 10" sheet of 1/8 clear red acrylic
Ebay is the best option here.
General parts:
- hook-up wire - solid core is easiest but consider looking into teflon-insulated wire - costs more, harder to strip but it does not shrink or melt when soldering.
- get a "grab bag" of standoffs and mounting hardware - try alltronics.com, bgmicro.com or goldmine-elec.com
This is an obsolete part, but it is generally available. You should pay less than $20 USD for it.
Here are some websites that had it in stock at the time of publishing this instructable:
http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?item=DL2416T
http://www.intertexelectronics.com/DL2416T-160-Red-4-Character-16Seg-Alphanumeric-Intelligent-Display-P8698.aspx
http://www.electronicsurplus.com/item/39202/
1x Atmel ATMEGA168
Buy this wherever you get the best price. You can get it with the bootloader already installed if you want.
An ATMEGA328 will work but is overkill. An ATMEGA8 might also work but I have not personally tried it.
1x 28-pin narrow DIP socket or 2x 14 pin DIP sockets
1x 40-pin DIP socket
1x PB400 protoboard from Wright Hobbies http://www.wrighthobbies.net/
Feel free to use whatever you want, but this is a great quality protoboard and it is cheap, esp. if you buy a five-pack.
This board is double-sided, real fiberglass, tinned and all the holes are through-hole-plated.
You'll appreciate how nicely it solders and how well you can unsolder without ripping up pads.
1x 1 ft 16-conductor rainbow ribbon cable
Try jameco.com for this one; it's not mandatory but the colors help keep you from messing up the bus wiring.
2x 0.1 uf mono caps
2x 22uf 16v radial electrolytic caps (anything 10uf - 47uf is fine)
1x 16mhz ceramic resonator
1x 10k Ohm 1/4 watt resistor
1x 2.1mm power jack 1 mm lead size
Try moderndevice.com - use the one they sell for the RBBB
1x 5v switchmode wall power supply
Try bgmicro.com - they have a 5v 2a for $3.99
I used to make my own linear regulator setups on-board for wall-powered stuff, but a regulated switchmode supply
is so much more efficien and they are cheap, so I no longer bother.
Make sure to observe the polarity of your adaptor. Most use center positive. Adapt your wiring for the jack if necessary.
1x 8" x 10" sheet of 1/8 clear red acrylic
Ebay is the best option here.
General parts:
- hook-up wire - solid core is easiest but consider looking into teflon-insulated wire - costs more, harder to strip but it does not shrink or melt when soldering.
- get a "grab bag" of standoffs and mounting hardware - try alltronics.com, bgmicro.com or goldmine-elec.com
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Nice idea. I can see the potential for embarrassment if the wrong word comes up while demonstrating it to Granny #;¬)
I take it the DL2416Tis now obsolete - Looks like a useful little device in its time. I've got a box full of TIL311 latched hex displays which are now being offered for silly money on eBay. One day I'll get around to using or selling them.
As for the display, they used to be rare but no longer. Maybe people got tired of hoarding them? They are such nice displays, they deserve to be put to use.
BTW alltronics.com has the dumb version of this display in an 8-character module. They also have the mil-spec versions of the dumb HDSP bitmapped LED matrix displays. You have to multiplex those yourself, but they come in beautiful ceramic packages with gold-plated leads. $69/each!