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The Arduino Project Board is basically a board to transer your ATMEGA168/328 to when you have completed your project and no longer need to use the Ard...
The complete Arduino Project Board Kit includes: (x1) Arduino Project Board PCB (or you can make your own with ProjectBoard.pcb) (x1) Bootloaded ATME...
Solder the 1K resistor to R1 on the board. Don't forget to clip away the excess leads from the back side of the board.
Solder the 0.1uF capacitor to C4.
Solder the 22pF capacitors to C1 and C2 on the board.
Line up the switch with SW1. Then press it down until it "pops" in and becomes flush with the board. Solder it in place.
Place the crystal atop XTL and solder it in place.
Put the socket atop the spot for the Arduino. Make certain that the notch cut into the end of the socket is located next to the 1K resistor. Solder a...
Solder the electrolytic capacitor in the spot labeled C3. Don't forget to make sure the "-" stripe on the capacitor is opposite from the + label on t...
Add the LM7805 voltage regulator to the board in the spot labeled 7805. The metal plate on the back of the regulator should be on the side opposite o...
Solder the red wire from the 9V connector to the terminal on the board labeled 9V. Solder the black wire to the terminals labeled GND.
I added a test LED to the board of this example to demonstrate it is working. I suggest that you don't do this if you don't have to and only add the ...
Program your chip and transfer it to the board. Here is the blink code for the LED example shown in Step 11: /* Standard Blink example set to Digi...
Plug in a 9V battery and it should be good to go.
Once it is built, programmed and powered up, the rest is kind of up to you. This one blinks. However, you can make it do whatever you want.
Take note of the graphic of the labeled board pin diagram. This shows exactly where each of the Arduino pins are. Note: pin 7 - pin 10 have no breako...
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