Arduino R/C Lawnmower (painted)

Step 11 More Videos

here are a few more videos in case anyone wanted to see...

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Comments

[rcflyeriam]

I have noticed that the your electronics are the highest part of the mower.  Maybe adding some sort of cage or box around it to keep bushes and shrubs from catching it and breaking things? 

Got to love the RC stuff, without them, where would we be.  Keep up the good work and happy flying .... ooooops, mowing.

[johndavid400]

I took it out today to my friends' 2acre lot and made some trails. I only wish I had a full video as it was doing wheelies and completely cleared out a relatively wooded area in about 3 minutes. It even took out some 1" trees without complaining.  It kind of climbs trees when you run it into them... which is awesome. I had to re-start the mower a few times when I ran it over some heavy brush, and the cooling fan actually got a stick stuck in the fan which almost overheated the mosfets!! anyways, it apparently works as a bush hog of sorts also. I will be sure and video the whole mess tomorrow.

[adamvan2000]

Just had an interesting idea....

What about hooking the remote up to a pc and programming some sort of app that calculates mowing pattern so that it does it all automatically.  You could even set it to vary the patterns so that they're never the same, and you'll always have a nice looking lawn.

~adamvan2000

[aol1044]

This is a nice idea. You may want to do another instructable or add on to this instructable and develop a downloadable program for that. Other than that, cool idea, may be a project for summer for me.

[mrdakota]

Mine is coming along nicely, waiting for the digikey stuff.
I wanted study the video operation and noticed that it would be nice to see how you are operating the transmitter.
Have you modified the left stick(mode2)to be spring loaded to center?
I plan on using my old JR 9503 computer radio and playing with some of the mixing functions to ease the operational functions.
Keith
In far northeastern IL

[johndavid400]

That sounds awesome, and yes, I did modify the left (throttle) control stick to be spring-loaded. You can either remove the spring from one of the unused channels (like the rudder or ailerons) and use the spring for the throttle, or you can salvage one from an old/broken transmitter. I found 2 transmitters at a hobby shop closeout sale for $5 each with no crystals and have been using them for parts on my newer 2.4ghz transmitters. The procedure is quite simple, but you will need a small set of needle-nose pliers. Your JR 9503 should work fine.

As you may have gathered, I use the left (up/down) stick for the left motor and the right (up/down) stick for the right motor, which allows for easy tank-steering with no signal mixing in the code. This (for me) is the easiest method to control the lawnbot as it provides extremely precise control of each motor.

I later came up with some code to mix the X and Y axis signals from a single joystick, which makes it easier to drive in a straight line, but is not nearly as intuitive or controllable while turning... especially during zero-turns.

regards,
JD

[mrdakota]

I ended up using the twin engine feature in the radio for the two channels. Then steer the two with differential mixed from the right aileron stick, that way I'm able to set a forward speed on the throttle and steer with just the right stick.
I've got reverse disabled until a activate a toggle switch too. This is working on the breadboard, until I get the motor driver circuit done I won't know for sure.
I'm having difficulty etching the 2oz. copper and I had to stretch out the pcb layout for heatsinks, as they were too close.

[tycobb48]

I know this post is older, but I wanted to chime in. Now that everyone is having so much fun hacking the new Kinect system, it seems that it would be the next logical progression for this project. (although I wouldn't test with the kids in the yard!) Any thoughts?

PS - great instruct - I've got a dead mower in the back and I think I've found my winter project - thank you!

[johndavid400]

hadn't thought of using kinect.... though I had thought of trying to interface a neural impulse sensor to the Arduino and driving the lawnbot around using "mind control", which I still might do when I get more money.

check it out here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16826100006&nm_mc=OTC-Froogle&cm_mmc=OTC-Froogle-_-PC+Gaming+Accessories+%28Joystick+-+Game+Pad+-+etc.%29-_-OCZ+Technology-_-26100006

[alien200049655]

It would be nice to see your sketch / code for the arduino. I wnat to do something similar to build a sercurtiy drone, with skid steering, your steering method would be perfect to use tracks or traction belts, lie a tank or a BobCat

[johndavid400]

The code is listed on the previous page in a .zip file for you to download. If you would like to use my current code, you can find it here:

ftp://ftp.rediculouslygoodlooking.com/arduino/LawnBot400/Lawnbot400_main_code/Lawnbot400_main_code.pde

[KD7CAO]

You've designed a neat, practical project.
Suggestions:

1. Either make the mower a Zero Turn Radius with true turf tires or give it steering capability on a front axle. This way it is easier to mow a straight line.

2. Install a remote kill switch, since you still have extra ports on your control, install a high-voltage relay for shutting down the mower.

3. Add cameras for remote viewing this way you can see it from the comfort of your lawn chair.

4. How about inexpensive laser guidance? Setup a cross pattern and optical sensors, this way it could be self controlled (or find a Roomba type code).

[johndavid400]

I am pretty careful in the videos, but I have let it loose a few times and it will do Zero-turns (around the axle), but the front end swings around a bit due to it's length. I will post some more videos soon.

The remote kill switch is already completed, I am using a 60amp automotive relay to disconnect the power to the motor controller and controlling the relay with a separate Atmega for added safety. The extra Atmega will also control the lights that will be added. Both will be controlled by the same R/C receiver, just routing the signals to a different microcontroller to be sure I can always turn off the power, even if the main processor jams up.

Also, I added a bit of code that shuts down the H-bridge completely, if any out-of-range signals are received (ie, if you turn off the Transmitter or get too far out).

I will post pics, videos, and the new code for both microcontrollers when I test it all out on the bot.