Step 5: The Frame part B

We now need to see how far down to mount the drive axle to make the frame level. So raise the rear of the frame up until the top of the frame is level with the ground (use your level). Now measure the distance from the top-rear of the frame to the ground, this is the frame height.

Now we need to take into account the height that the wheels will raise the axle off the ground.  So measure the distance from the center of the rear drive wheel to the ground (the wheel's radius). Subtract the wheel radius from the frame height and we will have the correct distance from the top of the frame to the drive axle, which we will call the frame-riser height (we need to cut these pieces next). They are going to connect the rear of the frame down to the axle which the wheels will be mounted on.

6. We are going to add 2" to the frame-riser measurement (so we have a little to work with) and cut the 2 frame risers (mine were about 10-12" long).
7. Now drill (2) 5/8" holes, 1 at the bottom of each frame riser (about 1" from the bottom), this is where the drive axle will go through.
8. Drill 2 holes at the top and bolt the frame risers to the rear of the main-rectangular frame with the frame-risers pointed down.
9. Now feed the threaded-rod through the bottom holes of the frame risers and use 4 nuts to secure the frame risers to the drive axle (1 nut on each side of each frame riser, tightened down).
10. put the rear wheels on the axle and use 1 more nut on each wheel to secure them to the axle (these wheels have built in bearings). The sprockets should face inward toward the frame.

Now we should have a frame that stands on it's own with 4 wheels. However, the rear axle is not completely secure yet. We will need to add 2 braces from the bottom of the frame risers (near the axle) to the main part of the frame in order to keep the frame risers positioned properly. These braces can be flat steel and do not need to be very thick, they are just keeping the frame risers from moving.

Measure about 2" above each axle and drill a hole, then measure how far down that hole is from the top-rear of the frame and measure the same distance from the rear of the frame toward the front. Drill another hole on each side at this measurement. The support braces will need to be measured to be bolted in through these holes on each side (see pictures). The placement of the support braces is less important, meaning you can bolt them in wherever is convenient, as long as they are present.

<p>Hey can you sent me the code, because it won't download on my iMac</p>
That's cool :) nice build! Was thinking as another possible safety feature, perhaps you could buy a &quot;invisible fence&quot; that people use for dogs. You put the wire a few inches under the ground to create a boundary and hack what is normally on the dog. This works in 2 stages, a sound to warn the dog (use this output to change mower direction) if the dog/mower is ignored the second stage gives a shock. (Use this output for closing your &quot;lost signal&quot; relay.
<p>Here is a unit I built from scratch with a track drive and complete stainless construction. It is fully functional but I have yet to add the lawnmower accessory to the front of it. If you have questions...feel free to ask. It has tons of torque. Two wheelchair batteries and two wheelchair motors and a sabretooth controller. I am thinking I may want to sell it if anyone is interested.</p>
That is awesome! Where did you get the tracks?
<p>Can you provide a more detailed schematic of how everything is connected to the arduino?</p>
<p>I built your H-bridge for a project im working on. Not sure if i made a mistake or if its working as designed. I connect motors to the triple8 and when i apply power to the board the motors both start. was not sure if it should default to stopped or running. I am also curious how to connect this to a standard arduino. Most of the refrences I can find show 3 wires per motor and this obviously only has two. Any help would be greatly apprieciated.. thanks!</p>
<p>This is genius! A beautifully executed idea with so much potential for other applications. Very good instructable.</p>
<p>Hi! First of all congrats to this great instructable! Very well documented, and very genius ideas.<br>However, I would be concerned with the parallel connected mosfets. Not one electronic part is equal (exactly the same characteristics). So if you take two LED's for example they will not be perfectly identical. This is the case for mosfets as well. So if one of them opens faster then it will have to handle amperage which it can't handle...<br>This is just a thought....:)</p><p>THank you and best regards,</p><p>Lorant</p>
Anyone have a copy of the .brd files the link is dead. I was looking forward to making this, but I dont want to buy the parts if there's no instructions to go with them
i am seeing your schematic, and, sorry to say, it's wrong. All the P-channel mosfets are reversed, you have a pair of p-channel mosfets on each H-bridge disconnected from the power. But apparently you fixed those two things on your PCB, it's a trap for beginners, you should fix it.<br /> <br /> You have no back EM protection, not even a diode, and the mosfets are too small in voltage, i used 100v mosfets with a 24vdc motor, 12A and&nbsp; they just exploded, all the protection died, and the microcontroller died. We measured the inductive peaks in approximately 200v, and you have 2 times the current here. You have no hardware protection to prevent both sides of the H-bridge from turning on at the same time.<br /> We even used toric transformers and 100uf capacitors next to the motor and, even then, it exploded, with fire and everything. <br /> <br /> The only solution that worked, after a year of trying (we didn't find something like a BTS7960 in my city, we looked for it) was to use a double inverter relay in series with 2 500v 8A mosfets in parallel, plus all the usual diode based protections, thermistor based protections, capacitor based protections, and, of course, optoisolated from the control logic.<br /> <br /> that was for an electric wheelchair.<br /> <br /> so, if your circuit worked, the motors are almost magic, you are extremely lucky, or you are omitting something.<br /> <br /> i wish you the best<br />
<p>Hey</p><p>you seem to be a expert on this field. I need some help. I made a remote lawn mover with wheel chair motors and 2x25A. It caught on fire after over heating. Now I am looking for a powerful MOSFET H bridge. Could you please send me a schematic with high power H bridge if you have got one. I am doctor in profession therefore minimal knowledge in electronics, need good good explanatory schematic. my email is Isuru7777wg@yahoo.com. Thank you for your help.</p>
sorry about any schematic and board differences... I am a beginner in Eagle, so I made the .brd file before the .sch file. <br /> <br /> The mosfets&nbsp; I used are 50 amp and 60v.... I am also fairly new to mosfet theory, so I can't argue with you on much, but I do know that they have built in ESD protection diodes that are rated far above the 24 volts that I am using. I thought about adding additional diodes, but as it turns out, that is not necessary. My bot weighs over 100lbs and I can do very fast direction reversing and it does nothing to the mosfets or the microcontroller (It has had the same Atmega168 since I&nbsp;built it a few months ago). I was worried about the gate-source voltage spikes above 24 volts affecting the P-channel mosfets, but the mosfets I used have a Vgs max of 25v and they have performed very well so far at 24vdc.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br /> <br /> I have used this controller with several different motors and it worked with each. Also it will carry me on top of my mower across the yard... so that is over 300lbs and it doesn't heat up at all. I may be very lucky, but it can handle anything I throw at it and it is very responsive, which is far more than I was expecting to get when I started.<br /> <br /> I&nbsp;think 2 people have already made this board and said it worked... but I am designing a new board based on the OSMC schematic, so I will post it as a replacement when&nbsp;I am done.<br />
maybe those mosfets are extremely good and more resistant to transient voltages than normal ones (IRFxxx), normally mosfets are very sensitive to overvoltages, and they are good with high currents.
<p>This is the best Instructable on Instructables. Pure genious. I think I first found this on RC Groups and then Googled around until I ended up here. I searched on eBay and Craigslist for wheelchair motors. They were all way to expensive. ($300 for a set). But I just found an old guy that rebuilds wheelchairs in his garage. I got a set of motors and wheels, some castor wheels, battery boxes, and several other things for $50! I'll be FPV-RC lawn mowing by spring!</p>
<p>Hi! Great job. I have a question. I'm in a similar project. what are the engine specifications?</p>
<p>Wow, Great job! Do you have a steering mechanism for the front wheels (IE a servo etc) or is all the turning done by the rear motors and the front wheels just pivot?</p><p>Thanks :-)</p>
<p>I want to make one with a bit more features :D</p><p>one with a good webcam or 2 and computer control ;P (me being a programmer)</p><p>it would be the pinnacle of lazy lawn mowing especially if i could turn it on from my computer. :D</p>
<p>Does anyone have the schematic or .brd file? None of the links seem to work.</p>
<p>One more thing. What kind of arduino did you use? Will an Uno work? Thanks!</p>
<p>Hi! I'm lazy and don't feel like doing the math on how much it is going to cost to make. Do you have a good minimum to maximum price range on building this thing? Thanks!</p>
<p>How do you pull and hold the throttle cable?</p>
<p>I took the spring off of the switch on the motor that the throttle cable pulls... then used a zip-tie to hold the switch open so it would allow me to crank the mower and it stay running. Then connected 2 wires to the contacts on the cutoff switch, connected to a relay to turn it off.</p>
<p>amaizing... maybe you can tech me how to make it..beocuse i'm newbe</p>
You have inspired me to create one! On the search for wheel chair! Thanks for laying the ground work and doing all the hard work.
<p>Sorry to bug you all again, another question. I am having an issue finding a 6ch Transmitter Reciever for a car. Does it need to be 6 channel, can it be more or less. Or is that for expansion of future stuff?</p>
<p>Hello, i have recently had this project rekindled in things to build. I have wanted to do something like this for a long time. And with the recent snows this year i have had a thought to put a snow scoop on the front of it to shovel. I have one maybe two questions for you. All the RC transmitter reciever pairs i am finding on ebay are in the GHZ range. I am new to arduino and not sure if this will work. And i guess the second question is, I see alot about the scooter motors, wheel chair motors are pretty expensive versus the scoter motors. Do you think the scooter motors handle mowing the lawn, hauling dirt and or a person around, and shoveling snow? Thank you in advanced for any comments</p>
You can view a video and pictures of my remote controlled lawnmower at: <br> <br>http://www.instructables.com/id/Remote-Controlled-Lawnmower/ <br> <br>Currently, the mower is controlled by a Futaba 4YF transmitter. The 2 receivers mounted on the mower receive signals from the Futaba transmitter and send commands via 2 Astro-flight 208d Reversing Controllers to 2 12volt wheel chair motors, which drive the mower. <br> <br>I want to interface my Windows 7 PC to allow the following 2 steps: <br> <br>Step #1-Learn Mode <br>Control the 2 Astro-flight 208d Reversing Controllers on the mower via the PC keyboard or PC joystick and record the sequence of commands to the PC. <br> <br>Step #2-Playback Mode <br>Place the mower in the same start position and send commands recorded on the PC in Step #1 to the mower. <br> <br>Is there a way to plug the 2 Astro-flight 208d Reversing Controllers into an Arduino board that can be controlled by my Windows 7 PC? <br> <br>specs on the Astro-flight controllers can be viewed at: <br>http://www.astroflight.com/208d.html <br> <br>Is there is an easier way to accomplish Steps#1 &amp; #2, please suggest. <br> <br>Thank you, <br>Bob Bowie
John, <br> <br>I would like to have one already built if you could please email private. I dont have any background in elec to confidence in building this bot. Please contact me. Thanks.
I been reading the arduino r/c lawnmower and am looking into building it. Just have a question, do u have a schematic for the pcb, or layout, with the receiver on it. The pcb under the moter driver board. Not sure how to connect the components on the board to the receiver and the to the power board and to the h-bridge board
I have ordered your book 'Arduino Robotics' and am looking forward to creating some of your robots.
Hi. Great instructable! Especially the 3x8 HBridge! I am going to use that one for my arduino powered dalek. <br> <br>I ordered the parts list first from this instructable. Then i checked out your github for the files. (STUPID me! First check all the files and then order your stuff). It turned out that the parts list here and the .sch and .brd files don't fit together. The V3 version only has 1 elco in the middle, instead of the 4 on the rest of the pictures. Do you perhaps have the originals also somehwere that match the partlist here :-). <br>Thanks <br>ramses
Does it mow grass?
I challenge you. Show me when it's done!
Wow, I had no idea that you could do a remote control lawn mower! We've been searching for someone that does <a href="http://mcnamaralawncare.com" rel="nofollow">lawn mowing in Bridgewater</a>. We never have time to do it ourselves. But I think I could find the time if it was remote controlled!
One day....
Hey John, sorry to ask again, am trying to get ahold of a schematic of the trasmitter board, and it seems that none of the links in the comments are working anymore. I need some idea on how to put it together and whats on it. Would love to see them, am disabled and am facsinated with this idea. Have all the time in the world to play with and build stuff. Ty in advanced.
or anyone that might allready have them.
wow, I am amazed at how awesome this is! have you ever used this lawn mower commercially? I am wondering how it would work for <a href="http://mcnamaralawncare.com" rel="nofollow">a lawn mowing company in bridgewater</a>?
Please Help Fund This Project!!! <br> <br>http://www.indiegogo.com/MicroMissile?show_todos=true&amp;a=1626754
I'm going to build something similar to this, but I'm going to make it so not only can I suspend the mower, but mount it on top for longer cut on rocky terrain. <br> <br>I don't like the sprocket and chain system though, but I haven't done enough research or know for sure I can do it any other way. I'm worried the chain is too complex and something weeds and twigs will get caught in. <br> <br>The main problem I'm having is I can't find these wheelchair motors for a reasonable price. I live in Australia and there don't seem to be any local cheap ebay auctions for these, and shipping on these suckers from the USA is $100-$200. I can't even find a cheap old wheelchair. <br> <br>Is there a more... retail... kind of product I can use? Something like a servo/actuator I can order? I have no idea what I'd need to look for in terms of torque though. What sort of specs would I need to ensure in such a product to make it work with this project? <br> <br>I need it to go up steep hills (30 degrees?) in long grass on rough ground. I'm already getting hardier wheels, larger drive wheels, and I found a company in Australia called Fallshaw that makes puncture-proof semi-pneumatic castors (though I can't find a price!), I will check out one of their stockists soon. <br> <br>Because I need to mow my rocky terrain sooner rather than later, I might build the frame and use it like a push mower until I can get the motors and retrofit the electronics. <br> <br>Any suggestions on alternatives to wheelchair motors would be appreciated.
i used e300 razor scooter motors they are 280w each (there are larger sizes of motors up to 500w that i have seen so far) and the ones i got were off ebay and i only paid about $65 for the pair they are working well so far i have not had any trouble with them and the sprocket size on them is #25. if you are comfortable with drilling your own holes there is #25 sprockets on amazon for pretty cheap they also have #25 size chain (10ft for $12). Hope this helped
with those razor motors would i still be able to move dirt in an wheelbarrow like attachment?
i have a 72 tooth sprocket on my 10 inch wheels (still goes fast with about an aproxamatly 5:1 ratio, but that is besides the point ) i put a wagon behind it and it was able to pull me (160 lbs. ) with ease and it struggled a little (like it might not do hills) with me and my 2 cousins in it ( about 350 lbs.), but if you change the gear ratio to a higher ratio then mine then it should be able to pull alot more then what i did, mine is too fast even with that gear ratio so i'm thinking about changing mine, but if you are using a 72 tooth sprocket on the wheels it should be able to pull about 200-300 pounds without it having much trouble but once you go over about 350 pounds then it will struggle. Make sure you are using 24v (for the torque) , and dont hit rocks with it (i did and i was sorry for about 2 hours of work [with the blade not the mower itsself] ) :) <br><br>If you have any more questions feel free to ask me, i would upload a video but i finished it then pulled out all the electronics in the back pannel to install an alternator.
Do you have any pictures/videos of the design using E300 motors?
( sorry i was working on the mower at my grandparents and i did not see the message) yes i do have a video of the but it is not the clearest :) but i will send it to you
You must have gotten lucky, the cheapest on eBay right now is $157 for the pair.
look at motor99motor his ebay page has the E300 motors for 26.90 a piece, that is who i ordered them from and they got to my house in a buisness week, Good luck

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