Arduino RFID Door Lock

***Updated 8/9/2010***

I wanted to make an easy and secure way to enter my garage. RFID was the best way to unlock my door, even with my hands full I can unlock the door and push it open! I built a simple circuit with a basic ATMega 168 arduino chip and a ID-20 RFID reader to control an electronic door lock.

The circuit consists of 3 separate parts, a Reader to read RFID tags, a Controller to accept data from the reader and control the output of the RGB LED and the Electric door lock. The door lock is first installed in a door and tested with a 9v battery to ensure correct installation. In most cases you want a Normally Open circuit on the door lock, or Fail Secure. This means the door stays locked when no current passes through it. When 12vDC is passed through the electromagnet in the door lock, a plate in the lock gives way and allows the door to be pushed open freely.

The reader is placed on the outside of the door and is separate from the controller on the inside so that no one can circumvent the security by breaking open the Reader and trying to short circuit the reader. The controller receives serial data from the Reader and controls the RGB led and the Door lock. In this case I have put both on separate bread boards for testing. Here is a video overview of the system in action Read on to see how to build one for your self!



**Update** 
All of the code, schematics, and PCB designs have been tested and refined. They are all posted here as of 8/9/2010

Updated video of the final system installed and working.

Step 1 Parts Needed

Here are a list of parts and links to SparkFun.com where I bought them. This is the basic set of parts you need to build and arduino and a circuit to read RFID tags into the arduino. I am assuming you have a breadboard, power supply and hookup wires already.

Arduino Stuff

ATmega168 with Arduino Bootloader $4.95

Crystal 16MHz $1.50

Capacitor Ceramic 22pF $0.25 (x2)

Resistor 10k Ohm 1/6th Watt PTH $0.25

Mini Push Button Switch $0.35

Triple Output LED RGB - Diffused $1.95

RFID stuff

Either one of these, 20 has better range, 12 is smaller
RFID Reader ID-12 $29.95
RFID Reader ID-20 $34.95

RFID Reader Breakout $0.95

Break Away Headers - Straight $2.50

RFID Tag - 125kHz $1.95

Other

TIP31A transistor (radio shack/local electronics store $1.50)

Door Lock is from ebay.
Door Fail Secure access control Electric Strike v5 NO $17.50 (kawamall, bay)

Comments

[pingywon]

I own a pizzeria and the delivery drivers come in and out of the back door all the time. I have taken your schematic and the modified version of your code (including the eraser card) and modded it myself a little further. I am currently installing this as a system on my back door. I have currently finished all the wiring and am just waiting for a few more parts from spark fun. I have made some changes to fit my actual wants and needs of the location, but overall it is the same lay-out. The whole project has proven REALLY fun so far and I hope to have it all wrapped up with in a week or so.

[pcmofo]

 Thats awesome! Glad to see you are getting some practical use out of my project. I am etching some prototype boards this week and hope to permanently install it on my garage brewery this week.

[pingywon]

So like I said it should be a week later and my project is all done. I have some pics and am uploading a "demo" video to you tube right now. I used RJ45 to run everything and with the 8pins there was one short coming of my version of the project. I will let all of you be the judge to see if you can figure it out. The whole system performs flawlessly....so far anyway.

If there is anyone who decides to do anything else with this code I would really love to see it or even help you test it.


The vid link doesnt show up as a reply. I'll make another post with it.

[pcmofo]

 Wow, I am impressed. You did a really nice job of  throwing that together without using a PCB. I like the eraser card code as well. I cant wait to get mine up and running as well. I hope you had fun building this. It looks like it turned out really nice. 

[pingywon]

Thanks man. I really appreciate that. I havent soldered anything this "complicated" in about 2 years, so my soldering started out terrible and by the time I was done it was looking great. I wanted to go back and resolder the whole thing, but I decided to leave good enough alone.

The "outside board" with the rfid reader... I enclosed it in a water proof box, but I also took the time to "paint" all the connection with "Liquid Electrical tape" to help water/moisture proof the whole thing.

Like I had said before if anyone had an additions to the code or design, I would love to see it. Maybe even impliment some of it.

[pcmofo]

 Nice! someone here made a PCB design to get the boards printed... I am going to print and etch my own reader board to fit a small electronic enclosure and mount it outside like you have done. It's under a patto so it should not be too exposed. For now I am going to leave the breadboard inside so I can play with the code more.

I designed the circuit diagram so you can still connect a programmer and reprogram it. I really like the idea of a master erase card. One idea I thought of is to have a "programming" master card... then a function card, like... "Add" "Erase" "Erase All" etc. which would allow more customized programming. I'm thinking stuff like one-time-access, access at a specific time of day or span of days.... say someone is coming to do electrical work.. they can go in and out all day but the card wont work the next day etc....

Also planning on using a networked RFID system to track and identify customers/beers we are brewing in the brewery.... so planning on using the same readers and tags for everything.... such that anyone carrying a empty keg into the brewery gets access via the keg because clearly they are helping carry heavy things and dont have time to mess with keys.... or the same tag for a friend may allow them to pour as much beer as they want and pay later but not access into the brewery unless I authorize it etc....

So basically I have lots of plans for RFID and this door reader is only the beginning. 

Working on an arduino remote car starter next... may or may not have RFID... but I expect to be playing around with both sets of code regardless soon. 

[pingywon]

I like the idea of one time use cards or "day pass" cards. In order for this system to meet my needs perfectly it would need to have an hours of operation type feature. So that my workers would not be able to enter the door in the middle of the night (11pm-7am) but at the same time I would like my card to work.
That is a feature I would like.
I also think im going to put a simple switch push button on the Arduino RX line so that I can push the button and break the connection between the ardunio and the ID-12 so that I can just jack in to the black box inside housing the ardunio to change the code. instead of having to curently open the box and disconnect the wire.
I was going to use software serial, but I just wanted to get the project done.

Please let me know as you make any new code. I would love you review it and possibly even help test it.

[pcmofo]

After a couple prototypes and attempts I have worked out all of the bugs and published the updated PCB designs and schematics. I also embeded a video on the main page showing the new boards and the system working in action. Im looking into getting boards made somewhere incase others would like to order them.

[dtechusa]

if it will not compile and you get an EEPROM error:
change #include to this

#include

its the first line of the code

[dtechusa]

LOL, well it doesnt show up when I use the actual characters

#include alligator eats EEPROM.h alligator leaves

alligator eats is <
alligator leaves is >

[redfox05]

Whats R3, as its not mentioned in the "parts needed" section. Are there any other things that are needed in addition to the initial parts list? Not a complaint, I know you cant specify 'every' single thing, but I want to make sure I can order everything in one go, as the electronics store is not particularly close to me.

Many thanks!
Russ

[redfox05]

Hi, great instructable, its my first arduino project! One question though:

For the FTDI Programmer, do I need a 3.3v o 5v? I have bought the ATmega328 as this is newer than the 168 which appears to be outdated now. Is this correct/still compatible?

Ftdi choices (i hope its one of these :)
3.3v - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/communication/0429307/
5v - http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/communication/6877770/

The are many other choices on the site, what are the differences???
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/?searchTerm=Usb+to+ttl&sort-by=P_breakPrice1&sort-order=asc&view-type=List&sort-option=Price

P.s. im UK based in case of tips for other shops.

Thanks,
Russell

[pcmofo]

FTDI programmers have both 5v and 3v lines on them. Most arduino stuff is 5v. Almost any FTDI cable will work with any FTDI port on an arduino.

[redfox05]

Thanks for the quick reply pcmofo. I'll go with 5v then. One more question, is there any difference/preference between a cable ftdi and a breadboard one?

[redfox05]

Im buying the parts right now from RS Components, and they dont have any 0.167w resistors. The lowest ones they do are 0.25w would tht work? How does the wattge affect it, as even the arduino.cc site just says a 10k ohm resistor, without stating wattage.

Sorry for all the questions, but i want o go out and buy these today so I can start on the project tonight.

Thanks in advance!
Russell

[yadoo86]

I just want to inform you that your lovely tutorial has been published on our facebook page ( http://www.facebook.com/faceuino ). Please feel free to join us and add your future tutorials.

Thnx for your effort
Faceuino team

[weekendtech]

How do i fix the "eeprom was not declared in this scope" error
I am doing this for a college project and have never used arduino before we are building it to interface it with computer help would really be appreciated is there part of the code i am missing?

[loizosgroutas]

I had the same problem. To fixed is easy. paste at the firt line
#include // Needed to write to EEPROM storage
this .
Now look like this.
#include // Needed to write to EEPROM storage.

Sorry for my english.

[electfire]

On the second video @ 3:24 when you are showing the power supply socket.... Is that a modified wall plate for connecting built-in speakers in a home theater? It looks like it... so instead of connecting it for left and right audio channels you used it for positive and negative power connections... This is a neat idea... though it would really only be worth it if you intend on using many things that run on 12 volts...
Also I hope you have this hooked up to back up power!

[Jsmxbox]

Hey im getting a problem i have 4 RFID keyrings they all work and i can read them all fine but the problem is 2 of them start with 00 00 and will not work as master, delete or wipe but the other 2 start with 00 01 and work without problems any reason why this would happen?

many thanks

Jamie!

[Jsmxbox]

Also found a floor in it too being that if you scan a key that ain't stored in the EEprom more than 3 times it still unlocks the "door"

[Stomp]

Can someone pls. tell me all the components I need to the PCB Techno Dancer have maked for this excelent project? Referering to his Eagle files...

Regards

Mikkel

[agsking]

could you use this project to lock/unlock a deadbolt lock instead? if so, what deadbolt would work with this?

thanks

[pcmofo]

Home depot has a electronic deadbolt made by quick set i believe. That could work.

[LegoGuy23]

I would Imagine so. If you connect the Arduino to a servo attached to the deadbolt, I think it could work. Just a theory though.

[AlfaZulu]

hey, i'm just a little confused with how you programmed the eeprom. I was planning on using an arduino uno with an ATMega 328p, mainly because i don't believe they make the 168 anymore..

would this code work just fine straight in the arduino software?

[pcmofo]

Yes, it will work.

[Silent99]

Willing to pay someone with experience to build me one of these or provide all instructions I would need to build one myself. Msg me

[kgee]

i also had a question about the RFID cards that you programmed to work for the door... that wasn't for the door. like you made a copy. but can you erase it?

[nmstar56]

I'm getting "error: 'EEPROM' was not declared in this scope" for "EEPROM.write(i, 0);"

Please help.

[TrueHybridX]

did you include the eeprom header files?

[jlim10]

would it be possible to program your fingerprint with a biometric reader as the mastercard?
if so can you guys teach me how, im really bad at programming

[natsud1]

Hi i have an Arduino328 and a parallax rfid reader but i dont really know how to write code although im trying to learn my first problem is that when i load the code and run it the blue led is not on but the other 2 are so i looked at your "normalModeOn" part and it looks to me that it is exactly backward of what i thought it should be since you have the "powerpin" high and the rest low and the tricolor led has one + and three - electrodes this seemed backward .all i have hooked up is the reader and the tricolor led if i reverse the normalModeOn from high to low and the lows to high i get the blue led so i then swiped a card and nothing happensi cant seem to figure out what to do or what to change is it because of the different arduino and reader or am i just supposed to figure out where the code needs to be changed for theses Pleas Help i dont know much about code

[natsud1]

OK so its been another 3 hrs but i made some progress i had a different rfid code that would read the card and diaplay it in the serial monitor and i found this "if((val = Serial.read()) ==10)" was different than your code yours was: "if((val = Serial.read()) ==2)" so i changed all instances to the number 10 and i got it to make the led blink odd color purpleish .. like i asked before about the led out highs and lows being reversed in the void sections well i reversed all of them and now when i swipe my non master/non saved card it turns red and when i swipe my master it goes to the program blinky sequence and it grants access to the former card when i reswipe it so i think i got some of it working but im not sure about the door lock part i have an led stood in place of the lock but it doesnt light up yet ill let you know if i get anywhere else on it sorry about the long comments this is a great 'ible im sure all my problems stem from lack of knowledge of code and other stuff hope what i said made since and maybe helps somone else

[kidmosey]

That enclosure seems to have enough space to add a keypad as an alternative means of entrance, in case you lose your rfid tag. Might also be good to disable the tumbler lock, since any Joe Smith can pick a lock, nowadays.

Also, if you put your rfid tag in a retractable thumbdrive (lined with aluminum), would that prevent people from passively thieving your rfid?

[tinker234]

wow use the star trex door with this

[joshnosh]

iv got quite far on this project now
iv got it working on a bread board and iv made a PCB i just need to drill and assemble. I cant get the newer code to work but oh well ill live

anyway iv been in discussion with someone and realised it would be a good idea to include a high voltage diode across the door lock pins.
when the door lock is closed the magnetic feald collapses in the door strike and this can cause quite high voltages to be produced as it collapses. these voltages will try and discharge through your tip31a transistor and can damage it over time
putting a diode there will allow the the door strike to loop back through itself and discharge. its not needed but it might help improve the reliability of the system

[insignia96]

What's Hilarious is that I, at this point in time, have an arduino, i am custom etching a shield, I have an outlet box, 2 RGB status leds, and to shorten this list up almost an identical project/Instructable I am working on and This is the first time I have read through this. Pretty funny, I guess great minds think alike!

[boudreau-inventor2]

I have couple questions. Where did you find the breadboard power supply for 12 volts? And, what size is the breadboard you are using?

[PrivatHost]

Which Values has the Resistors R1, R2, R3, R4, R5?