Step 5: Wiring the Power Strip

Open up the power strip. (See picture) The one I used has three standard dual AC outlets. From the right on top, basically the black wire from the AC cord connects to a switch, then the circuit breaker, then to first outlet. The first outlet is connected to the second and the second to the third. The two connections on top of each dual outlet are actually shorted together so all the black wires are electrically connected.
The white wires on the bottom follow the same pattern.

Important: Standard U.S. AC wiring specifies that the black wire is the hot side and the one that you want to switch. If you look at the switch on the right, you can see that the black wires go to the switch but that the white wire goes right to the circuit breaker.
If you look at the left outlet, you will notice a little black item with some electrical tape on it. That is the relay.

Wiring: I can’t get a picture of the wiring so will describe it instead. I cut the black wire between the second and third outlets. One side goes to the common pin, 3 on the relay. (See drawing of relay pinout) The other side of the black wire goes to the NC pin, 2 of the relay. {What this means is that when the relay is not energized, the two wires are connected and AC is on the last two sockets. When the relay is energized, the connection is opened and no power goes to the sockets}. Pins 1 and 8 are the coil pins and are connected to speaker wires coming from the Anarduino. For this relay it doesn’t matter which wire is connected to which side of the coil.
Make sure the two black wires are not touching any other pins of the relay or anything else in the power strip. I isolated them with hot glue.
Make sure the two (speaker) wires coming from the Anarduino are only connected to pins 1 and 8 of the relay and not touching the black wires or anything else in the power strip.
  If you have an DMM, measure the two AC leads of the power strip plug. They should be open, (infinite resistance) with nothing plugged in.
Otherwise plug it in very carefully.
A nice and safe alternative is to use a Wattstopper power unit which is UL approved, has zero voltage switching and as a bonus has DC output at about 150 mA to power your controller. One such unit (B-120 EP) is available from Amazon for about $15. - Enjoy.
If any one would like some cheap handmade arduino bricks<br>pleas go to my etsy shop 111swords.<br>I would greatly appreciate it.
Nice, I've spent alot of time reading and learning from your posted instructables<br>Great work!<br> <br> Q: What happens when you shine the laser then remove the laser (to reset the Anarduino) then repeat the process while its running?<br> Does it just re-trigger the reset or ignore it until its finished with it's sketch?
Sorry, I had to revisit this Instructable as I forgot how it worked and I've dismantled it for other projects.<br><br>Every time the phototransistor sees the laser, it will re-trigger the reset. The reset pin on the AtMega takes precedence over any software that is running. <br><br>Technically, the low reset needs to last 2.5microseconds to guarantee a reset.<br><br>LOG<br><br>p.s. I was just looking at the AtMega documentation. There is a way to disable the reset pin but I don't know how you would do it.

About This Instructable




Bio: Lazy Old Geek
More by msuzuki777:Senior Moments Weather Station 5 IP Time Clock Part 2 
Add instructable to: