Introduction: Arduino Wireless Power POV Display

When I first met this little device, I liked it immediately. I decided to make my own POV. I watched lot of videos, and recognised some main problems. The power supplying of the micro-controller was the biggest. Spinning battery or sliding commutators were both refused. Only option was the air core coil for me. That solution seemed too difficult. I could manage to solve this problem successfully. I created an easy but relatively efficient circuit with a few electronic parts.

Step 1: Schematic Diagram

Picture of Schematic Diagram

The schematic diagram

Step 2: Components You Need:

Picture of Components You Need:

Component list: with links

1. Arduino pro mini ATMEGA328 5V 16 Mhz

2. DS 3231 RTC module

3. 7 pcs 1206 smd LEDs

4. 7 pcs 220 ohm resistors 0805 or 1206

5. TCRT5000 Reflective optical sensor

6. 2 pcs 4.7 nF capacitor 4.7 nF 1206

7. 1 pc SS34 schottky diode

8. 1 pc 1...4.7 uF capacitor 1 uF 1206

9. 2 meters 24 AWG ( 0.51 mm) magnet wire

10. 1 pc 1.5 nF capacitor 1.5 nF 1206

11. 1 pc BCX 56 transistor ( I tried BC 639, BC 368, worked well) BCX56

12. 1 pc 4.7k resistor 4.7k 1206

13. The motor and some other parts are from and old CD player. Or new motor with disc holder

14. 5V power supply,( USB charger or power bank).

Step 3: The Heart of This Project : Coils.

Picture of The Heart of This Project : Coils.

There is a simple coil in the receiver side and a bifilar coil in the transmitter side. The secret is that they have to have same size and same number of turns. In my coils this number is 8. The little trick in the bifilar coil is that coil consists two coils with 4 turns. It is not difficult to make. The preparation process same as in the single coil.

I used 24 AWG ( 0.51 mm) magnet wire for winding coil. 8 turns , 35 mm diameter.

As you can see in the picture we have 4 wires in the bifilar coil and we need a common point. Two of them will be connected to each other that point will be the common point. There are two options. 1. connect red start to blue end. Or : 2. connect blue start to red end.That's all. I am not too good at explaining things, but hope, you understood.

Step 4: Arduino Software

The software:

Step 5: Making Coils Step by Step

Picture of Making Coils Step by Step

Step 6: Building Transmitter

Picture of Building Transmitter

It requires some soldering skills. I will make a version with bigger through hole parts.

Comments

Chrome98 (author)2017-11-15

I would love to make this but there are far too many blanks in the instructions. Please elaborate on this "instructable."

holybaf (author)Chrome982017-11-16

Thank you for your feedback, I really appreciate it. I will share much more information soon. Topics: how to gather parts, how to make coil, how to tune the coil pairs, how to solder SMD parts, how to programm arduino mini via Arduino UNO, how to set up the motor speed, how to balance the disc. Please tell me if I missed something.

BS16 (author)holybaf2017-12-24

I agree. Well done but too many blanks. Parts gathering it important. I would be interested to know where you got that piece that fits on the Arduino side and connects to the motor. I would also like to see explanation on the purpose of the coils. I assume it powers the board? Does it also transmit / receive data? When can we expect an update? :)

holybaf (author)BS162017-12-25

Thank you for reminding me. I linked the parts, actually everything's reachable on Aliexpress. I mined the motor from an old DVD player and the part you asked is the upper plate of the disc holder. Yes,the coil powers the board and no data transmission. The coil provides about 6V 100 mA. I attache pictures how it works. About updating... I will upload more and more details but I don't know which parts are more important. First step was updating the part list as many of you asked. Every post and question helps, I appreciate them.

sumandey131 (author)2017-12-06

Great instructable! Inspired by this instructable, I am working on a similar thing with 32 leds driven by four 74HC595 shift registers and I want to use wireless power transfer for it. The max current for each 74HC595 is 70mA, so for four of them it becomes 280mA. My question is can this wireless power transfer design will able to deliver 300 to 350 mA of current at regulated 5 volts? Sorry if I sound stupid as I am very new to electronics and have limited knowledge about all this.

holybaf (author)sumandey1312017-12-06

Hi, thank you.It is a reasonable question. My circuit provides approximately 100 mA because my goal was to build it as small as it possible. 300-350 mA is reachable, I would try: raise the input voltage to 12V, decrease the base resistor to 3.3K , replace the transistor to a stronger one with heatsink and dont forget to use a 5V regulator in the receiver side.

sumandey131 (author)holybaf2017-12-06

Thank you for replying and helping, I would definitely try out the modifications you said.

holybaf (author)2017-12-03

The next project: POV with IR data transmission. Coming soon.

starphire (author)2017-11-27

Nice project. I am thinking about how this could be scaled up a bit. :)

holybaf (author)starphire2017-11-28

Thank you. I am thinking about how this could be even simpler. :)

it15 (author)2017-11-17

Hi, friend.

Your project very much was pleasant.

It was necessary to tell you in more detail: you use TCRT5000 Reflective Optical Sensor concerning D9-D10 on Arduino. It isn't absolutely clear to me as the second part of this sensor (LED from TCRT5000) - directly is connected to an entrance 5v via the current-limiting resistor? Or somehow still?

holybaf (author)it152017-11-17

Thank you. I separated the two parts of TCRT5000. I put the IR LED to a bottom panel, only the phototransistor is on the Arduino. It is also shown in the drawing and a picture now.

it15 (author)holybaf2017-11-19

Excuse me, but on the scheme I haven't seen connected 2 parts of the divided TCRT5000. Therefore I ask for his connection, that is I am interested in connection of the IR LED TCRT5000 sensor. Thanks.

holybaf (author)it152017-11-20

The TCRT5000 consists a phototransistor and an IR LED. I've disassembled it and put the LED on to the transmitter board, and soldered the phototransistor to the arduino. During the operation they are opposite each other. The IR LED lights continuosly.

it15 (author)holybaf2017-11-23

Thank you.

it15 (author)it152017-11-27

Very qualitatively described project and with the detailed description. Very sociable creator of the project! I will surely repeat for myself the POV!

GuidoG4 (author)2017-11-16

Maybe there is a way to make it even simpler. At which frequency does the oscillator work? How many RPMs the display spins? If, instead of the oscillator and fixed coil, you place a lot of permanent magnets on the perimeter of the base and a single coil on the rotating part, you should be able to harvest the motor's energy. If you use a full bridge rectifier your voltage drop will double, but also the current and you can reduce the storage capacitor (that is probably going to be much bigger). With a 100 k resistor placed between the coil and an Arduino pin you can also get the position (internal protection diodes will take care of extra or inverted voltages), doing away with the reflective sensor. If one magnet is missing, there you have your absolute position.

holybaf (author)GuidoG42017-11-17

Thank you. Great idea. Currently the oscillator frequency is about 1 MHz and the speed is 1500 RPM. Some counting is necessary. . Due to a small place, I should increase the velocity.

GuidoG4 (author)holybaf2017-11-18

Well, I thought it was more in the 100 kHz range. With 60 of those https://m.banggood.com/Wholesale-Warehouse-100pcs-N52-6mm-x-3mm-Strong-Cylinder-Magnet-Rare-Earth-Neodymium-Magnet-wp-Eu-977186.html?rmmds=category , if the motor does not slow down too much you will get 80 kHz power pulses, with a full bridge rectifier. You should probably place an inductor between the bridge and the storage capacitor and record the voltages obtained at full load with a battery powered Arduino. It won't be easy, it all depends wether you want to learn a lot of electrotechnical stuff. In any case please specify the working voltage of the capacitors, it's a very important parameter. Also the type (ceramic, alluminum) is rather important. In short, specify their part numbers :-)

holybaf (author)GuidoG42017-11-19

There is a problem. The direction of movement of the magnets is parallel to the coil. Therefore the induced voltage would be zero. New coil design would be necessary.

GuidoG4 (author)holybaf2017-11-19

Definitely. As suggested in my following post the receiving coil should be much smaller, wound around an iron core of the same diameter of the magnets. It would also be a good counterbalance for the bigger storage capacitor. But, again, your project is great as it is and probably simpler to build, so ignore my suggestions unless you are interested in learning more about electrical engineering. Or if you want to build a bigger one.

holybaf (author)GuidoG42017-11-20

Dear Guido, how do you imagine the shape and placement of the coil? Something like in the picture?

GuidoG4 (author)holybaf2017-11-21

Exactly. But in the meanwhile I did some more research. If you place a second solenoid (coil with iron core) with its own bridge rectifier at a distance of n+1/2 magnet diameters you will get a two phase power, so the storage capacitor will be smaller. With a third solenoid placed at n+3 diameters from the first you will get a three phases output that, practically, does not need any capacitor. But... I also found out that the first electric motors had horrible efficiency because the distance between the magnet and the solenoid was not taken in the proper consideration i.e. it is fundamental that it is as small as possible. This means that you should use two ball bearings for the shaft, align everything to the tenth of millimeter and, well definitely an overcomplicated thing.

GuidoG4 (author)GuidoG42017-11-21

The only experiment I would advise you to do is to place an insulator around the motor shaft and a ball bearing around the insulation, so that the inner ring of the bearing turns together with the motor shaft. The outer ring will be connected to the body of the motor with an insulator (plastc brackets or blob of epoxy). I agree with you that sliding contacts are not a good thing, but these would be rolling contacts :D

holybaf (author)GuidoG42017-11-19

Of course, I take into consideration your suggestions. Absolutely agree with you, your idea can be better in case of higher current consumption because my little circuit has its boundaries in that field.

GuidoG4 (author)GuidoG42017-11-17

Clearly the coil will have to be placed on the perimeter of the display and be much smaller, with an iron core as big as the magnets. If you take the motor's RPMs, multiply it by the number of magnets and by the storage capacitor and finally divide it by the oscillator frequency you should get the new storage capacitor's value, that, with a bridge rectifier, should be more than halved.

WannaDuino (author)2017-11-18

i think almost no body seen your last picture with the WIRELESS LED LIGHT.

That is called WIRELESS POWER.

holybaf (author)WannaDuino2017-11-19

Yes, maybe I should make a new "Instructable" about this topic :)

Tony--K (author)2017-11-17

Excellent project! I'm going to build it.

I also need more detailed instructions before I can start building.

holybaf (author)Tony--K2017-11-17

Thank you, I am working on it and uploading more and more information.

airton65 (author)2017-11-17

Brilliant, well done

holybaf (author)airton652017-11-17

Thank you.

eyjang1998 (author)2017-11-16

Wow~ very nice.

holybaf (author)eyjang19982017-11-17

Thank you.

WannaDuino (author)2017-11-16

AMAZING, and in your HONOR i will build this also for you, and link you on my website and channel

i am a clock junky, and POV fanatic, in the best way, coming soon to see on my channel, as you can see i made my own PV stick want, and have a fan that display REAL pictures and LIVE clock and temperature, via an APP.

and yours wil be add to my collection, believe me, this is a FRACTION of what i have and is coming............ THANXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

www.wannaduino.com

Time is a fabricated LIE just to undermine us.

holybaf (author)WannaDuino2017-11-17

Thank you. You are a real POV expert.

splodgie (author)2017-11-16

Got to build this. Dived in my Arduino/ESP/Tat box got every thing but NOT the correct RTC, Two now on the way from China,just got to wait 5 weeks for them to turn up. (If the counter balance weight hole was drilled of center the coin could be rotated to tune the balance)

IsaacM92 (author)2017-11-16

This is awesome well done, and great results

holybaf (author)IsaacM922017-11-16

Thank you.

mayankbhatia (author)2017-11-16

Very nice! cant wait to see the full instructions :)

cobourgdave (author)2017-11-15

This is a nice instructable and a wake up call to look at Tesla and simple coils for power transfer. Could you describe how you arrived at the coil sizes and number of windings.? It certainly looks like a better solution than slip rings. Thanks

holybaf made it! (author)cobourgdave2017-11-15

Thank you for mentioning Tesla's name, actually I use Tesla pancake coil in this project. I have tried many types of coils. My experience is that size and the number of windings are not really important. Less turns - higher frequency, but same current and voltage. The point is the tuned L-C pair. So in my case the size was determined according to this project physical dimensions.

cobourgdave (author)holybaf2017-11-15

Thanks for your reply and again, thanks for an eye opening instructable

Surajit Majumdar (author)2017-11-15

Awesome project

holybaf (author)Surajit Majumdar2017-11-15

Thank you

Swansong (author)2017-11-14

That's a really neat clock :)

holybaf (author)Swansong2017-11-15

Thank you :)

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