I'll show you how to make a neat little compact Arduino servo controller board with built in servo connectors that is perfect for costuming and haunted house applications. There are multiple code examples, wiring diagrams and I'll show you how to connect sensors and even how to connect two controllers using wireless radios.
Here's a little movie clip of what is easily possible- an animatronic Predator cannon with laser sight, cannon firing sound and head tracking motion control.
Here's an Iron Man hand repulsor with servo to open the forearm missile compartment. Follow along and find out how to make your awesome costumes more awesome...
Update: My instructable for showing how to make an animatronic Stargate helmet is here-
http://www.instructables.com/id/Animatronic-Stargate-helmet/
Note- While this instructable is written for the beginner, this tutorial assumes you know how to use a soldering iron and other assorted tools like wire strippers and wire cutters. Please be sure to take proper safety precautions, wear safety glasses when using cutting tools and have adequate ventilation when soldering. If you aren't yet comfortable soldering small surface mount components don't fret- I've posted links in the reference section that will help you become a soldering champ in no time.
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Signing UpStep 1: First you need an Arduino
Arduino is an open source microcontroller- essentially it is a small computer with an easy to use cross platform programming language. It allows you to create interactive objects based on sensory inputs (physical computing.) You can use it to do something simple like make an LED fade or have a servo move when you push a button or have it do something very complex like control a robot by processing sensor inputs, send the inputs to a computer over a wireless network and then send commands back to the robot. The applications are really limited only by your imagination and there are thousands of examples of cool projects all over the Web. There are several books about Arduino and its capabilities and I've listed a few in the reference section.
Which Arduino to use?
There are several variations of the Arduino controller available so which one do you use? It depends on your application. Some have more input pins than others if you need a lot of sensor inputs. For the purposes of this instructable you really can use any Arduino you like as the information presented applies to most every version. Here is a spreadsheet that shows most of the current variations available-
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AsCUiP6WbJIvcG8xalA3QVdmb3JVT0ptWE9VNC02WEE&hl=en#gid=0
If you are going to use an Arduino Uno or Mega or any Arduino that has built in USB then you can skip to the getting started section.
Building a servo board
Since my focus is mainly on costume building I decided to use the Sparkfun Arduino Pro Mini and then build a compact servo application board for it that has multiple servo outputs, analog inputs and digital outputs. I also added a socket for an Adafruit Xbee wireless radio adapter as well as a charging circuit for a single cell LiPo battery to power the controller.
The reasons I really like the Pro Mini are its very small form factor, low cost and low power requirements. It operates on 3.3V, which means it can be powered by a single LiPo cell and that makes it easy when connecting sensors that run on 3.3V.
The latest version servo board has eight servo outputs, four digital outputs and six analog inputs. The servo outputs are also digital outputs- they're just configured to make it really easy to connect hobby servos. The earlier version seen in the photos has six servo outputs. Each servo output has three pins- ground, power and signal. The analog inputs are configured the same way- each input has three pins- ground, power and signal. This configuration makes it super easy to connect individual sensors. The board measures 1.75" x 2.30" so it's pretty small.
The board has a circuit for charging the LiPo cell that powers the controller. There is a mini USB port for 5v input power. Simply connect the battery and then plug in a USB cable and the battery will automatically charge. There is a charging indicator- the LED is on when the battery is charging and then it will automatically turn off when the battery is fully charged.
The mini USB port will also power the controller, even without a battery connected. The mini USB port is only used as a power source connector while charging or during times when a LiPo battery is not available- there is no data transmission using the mini USB port and you are limited by the amount of power a USB port can provide.
Code is uploaded to the controller using a USB to serial adapter (more on this later.) This adapter can also power the controller over USB without the need to connect the battery. This comes in really handy when you're testing code and you want to power the controller without having to connect the LiPo battery.
I'm providing all the necessary EAGLE files so people can modify the design to suit their own needs.
EAGLE can be downloaded here- http://www.cadsoftusa.com/
ServoBoard.zip28 KB
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There are classes and workshops for Arduino to get your feet wet in the electronics area and Stan Winston School has videos you can watch that cover all aspects of creature fabrication. They specifically have a couple of videos by Rick Lazzarini of The Character Shop that covers radio control animatronics. Check it out here- http://www.stanwinstonschool.com
Rick Lazzarini also teaches people here- http://www.animatronicsinstitute.com/
If you have any other questions just let me know!
I think it would be amazing if the eyes lit up when the sound effect when off...you are going to have to email me or else this post will get very long, but a list of parts would be a fantastic start. As far as sounds I would love a Wolf howl and growl/snarl too but I may be well overstepping my novice skills
I found an online dealer who had the led lights prewired to 9voltr cap with switch so I have them but will still need help on the sound and synching the eyes up to the sound. I am very tempted to just order an animated halloween prop that seems to have most of what I want..but would need to disassemble the whole thing and cannabalized the animatronics. (lunging cemetary dog prop)
Thanks again for the help. I can't wait ti get started.
If I get a chance in the next day or two I'll make a parts list for you- basically you want an Arduino Uno, Wave Shield, 9V battery/holder, a couple LEDs and a couple fingertip switches to activate your sounds.
What I do is write a list of what I want my costume to do and then make a plan from there. So How many sounds do you want? Do you want the eyes to light up with the sound or independent of the sound? That kind of thing. Make sense?
Build_it_Bob
If you want to send the file to another service you need to open it in EAGLE and then bundle the necessary gerber files (usually seven files total) and send them as a .zip file to your service.
I was just wondering, im getting into micro controllers now I know how to solder but my main goal is to just have a couple flex sensors control a couple servos and possibly integrate an lcd screen in at some point in time. Is the controller and mini you have in this instructable able to use an lcd?
and if I just bought an Uno, would I need a controller board and circuit like you built or would I just be able to hook the flex sensors and servos straight to the unoo?
I hope u can help me out I've searched for a few days to answr these questions and haven't found an answer. Thanks alot for ur help
http://www.ladyada.net/learn/lcd/charlcd.html
You don't necessarily need a controller board (or shield) but it makes hooking up sensors and servos a lot easier. You can also use a breadboard if you just want to plug stuff in and try it out and that's what I would recommend if you're just starting out. If you look at the examples you can see diagrams how to hook up a servo and flex sensor directly to the Arduino using a breadboard.
Hope this helps- let me know if you have any other questions!
Did you actually make a forearm missle compartment? Im trying to figure out how I can make an arm mount without buying an expensive medical bracee and not out of paper lol
http://www.siwdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=227&t=208
Apologies for potentially silly question - i'm very new to this!
I'm looking at building the War Machine Cannon; I have an Arduino UNO (but have no need for the sound, so don't have adafruit). I also have the Pan/Tilt you suggested (powered by the 2 Servos motors). Looking At your diagram, will i need an Arduino Mini Pro Also? Or can i just use the UNO? i must admit, i'm a bit confused :s.
Thanks!
Andy
First of all: Your work is absolutly great!
I'm working on a Iron Man arcreactor + 1 lower arm with hand repulsor, like seen in one scene of the first movie. in the beginnings I experimentated with some low budget solution: Soundmoduls of greetingcards. Perhaps a tip for people with very low budget. But i want to synchron the lighteffects with the sound, so your instructable is perfect for me.
My first question:
Is it right, that you need an Arduino uno under the wave shield? Is there nothing to programm onto this Arduino?
Second question:
Can i put 2 different sounds on the waveshield, wiche are played with different input pins high?
Third question:
Why do you power the two arduinos with two 9V Blocks?
My planed setup: 2 x Arduino uno, 1x wave shield , 2 bend senors, two led circuits (open the hand -> repulsor starts glowing; spread thumb away from forefinger -> second led circuit with blast sound), powered by 9v blocks + step down voltage regulator.
Thanks again for your awsome instructable!
Felix
I just looked a little bit closer into the programming. With another if condition in the first one, it should be possible to use one bend sensor as tricker with two threshold, right? open hand -> threshold 1 -> glowing repulsor, finger straight -> threshold 2 -> blast effects.
By the way, I changed the power setup: I will use 3V batteries for the LED instead of the step down regulator. If theres no energy for the Arduinos left, there will be still energy for the LED's of the Arcreactor.
Thanks again for your instructable. Without your great instruction, I would never start the project with Arduinos. But the potential of the Arduinos is just huge!