loading

WARNING: Some people try to build this with an optocoupler with zerocrossing coz 'that is better' right? Some are even told in electronics shops it is better to use such an optocoupler. WRONG. This will only work with a random fire optocoupler: NOT igniting at zerocrossing is the principle of this dimmer.

Switching an AC load with an Arduino is rather simpel: either a mechanical relay or a solid state relay with an optically isolated Triac. (I say Arduino, but if you use an 8051 or PIC16F877A microcontroller, there is stuff for you too here.)

It becomes a bit more tricky if one wants to dim a mains AC lamp with an arduino: just limiting the current through e.g. a transistor is not really possible due to the large power the transistor then will need to dissipate, resulting in much heat and it is also not efficient from an energy use point of view.

Phase cutting
One way of doing it is through phase control with a Triac: the Triac then is fully opened, but only during a part of the sinus AC wave. This is called leading edge cutting.
One could let an Arduino just open the Triac for a number of microseconds, but that has the problem that it is unpredictable during what part of the sinus wave the triac opens and therefore the dimming level is unpredictable. One needs a reference point in the sinus wave.
For that a zero crossing detector is necessary. This is a circuit that tells the Arduino (or another micro controller) when the sinus-wave goes through zero and therefore gives a defined point on that sinus wave.
Opening the Triac after a number of microseconds delay starting from the zero crossing therefore gives a predictable level of dimming.

Pulse Skip Modulation
Another way of doing this is by Pulse Skip Modulation. With PSM, one or more full cycles (sinuswaves) are transferred to the load and then one or more cycles are not. Though effective, it is not a good way to dim lights as there is a chance for flickering. Though it might be tempting, in PSM one should always allow a full sinuswave to be passed to the load, not a half sinus as in that case the load will be fed factually from DC which is not a good thing for most AC loads. The difference between leading edge cutting and PSM is mainly in the software: in both cases one will need a circuit that detects the zero crossing and that can control a triac.

A circuit that can do this is easy to build: The zero crossing is directly derived from the rectified mains AC lines – via an optocoupler of course- and gives a signal every time the wave goes through zero. Because the sine wave first goes through double phased rectification, the zero-crossing signal is given regardless whether the sinus wave goes up through zero or down through zero. This signal then can be used to trigger an interrupt in the Arduino.

PWM dimming
PWM dimming, as in LEDs is not done frequently with AC loads for a number of reasons. It is possible though. Check this instructable to see how.

It goes without saying that there needs to be a galvanic separation between the Arduino side of things and anything connected to the mains. For those who do not understand 'galvanic separation' it means 'no metal connections' thus ---> opto-couplers. BUT, if you do not understand 'galvanic separation', maybe you should not build this.

The circuit pictured here does just that. The mains 220Volt voltage is led through two 30k resistors to a bridge rectifier that gives a double phased rectified signal to a 4N25 opto-coupler. The LED in this opto-coupler thus goes low with a frequency of 100Hz and the signal on the collector is going high with a frequency of 100Hz, in line with the sinusoid wave on the mains net. The signal of the 4N25 is fed to an interrupt pin in the Arduino (or other microprocessor). The interrupt routine feeds a signal of a specific length to one of the I/O pins. The I/O pin signal goes back to our circuit and opens the LED and a MOC3021, that triggers the Opto-Thyristor briefly. The LED in series with the MOC3021 indicates if there is any current going through the MOC3021. Mind you though that in dimming operation that light will not be very visible because it is very short lasting. Should you chose to use the triac switch for continuous use, the LED will light up clearly.

Mind you that only regular incandescent lamps are truly suitable for dimming. It will work with a halogen lamp as well, but it will shorten the life span of the halogen lamp. It will not work with any cfl lamps, unless they are specifically stated to be suited for a dimmer. The same goes for LED lamps

If you are interested in an AC dimmer such as this but you do not want to try building it yourself, there is a somewhat similar dimmer available at www.inmojo.com, however, that is a 110 Volt 60Hz version (but adaptable for 220 50Hz), that has been out of stock for a while. You will also find a schedule here.

NOTE! It is possible that depending on the LED that is used, the steering signal just does not cut it and you may end up with a lamp that just flickers rather than being smoothly regulated. Replacing the LED with a wire bridge will cure that. The LED is not really necessary. increase the 220 ohm resistor to 470 then


STOP: This circuit is attached to a 110-220 Voltage. Do not build this if you are not confident about what you are doing. Unplug it before coming even close to the PCB. The cooling plate of the Triac is attached to the mains. Do not touch it while in operation. Put it in a proper enclosure/container.

WAIT: Let me just add a stronger warning here: This circuit is safe if it is built and implemented only by people who know what they are doing. If you have no clue or if you are doubting about what you do, chances are you are going to be DEAD!
DO NOT TOUCH WHEN IT IS CONNECTED TO THE GRID

Materials
Zerocrossing
4N25 €0.25 or H11AA1 or IL250, IL251, IL252, LTV814 (see text in the next step)
Resistor 10k €0.10
bridge rectifier 400 Volt €0.30
2x 30 k resistor 1/2 Watt (resistors will probably dissipate 400mW max each €0.30
1 connector €0.20
5.1 Volt zenerdiode (optional)

Lamp driver
LED (Note: you can replace the LED with a wire bridge as the LED may sometimes cause the lamp to flicker rather than to regulate smoothly)
MOC3021 If you chose another type, make sure it has NO zero-crossing detection, I can't stress this enough DO NOT use e.g. a MOC3042
Resistor 220 Ohm €0.10 (I actually used a 330 Ohm and that worked fine)
Resistor 470 Ohm-1k (I ended up using a 560 Ohm and that worked well)
TRIAC TIC206 €1.20 or BR136 €0.50
1 connector €0.20

Other
Piece of PCB 6x3cm
electric wiring

That is about €3 in parts

Step 1: Arduino controlled light dimmer: The PCB

You will find two pictures for the PCB: my first one, that I leave here for documentation purposes and a slightly altered new one. The difference is that I left out the zenerdiode as it is not really necessary and I gave the LED itś own (1k) resistor: it is no longer in series with the Optocoupler, that now has a 470 Ohm resistor. I made the PCB via direct toner transfer and then etched it in a hydrochloric acid/Hydrogenperoxide bath. There are plenty of instructables telling how to do that. You can use the attached print design to do the same. Populating the print is quite straightforward. I used IC feet for the opto-couplers and the bridge rectifier.
Download the print here.
Note: You need Fritzing for this. For the direct toner transfer, the printed side of the printed pdf file, goes directly against the copper layer for transfer. Once it is transferred, you will be looking at the ink from the other side and thus see the text normal again. I made slight alterations in thePCB: I removed the zenerdiode and the LED is no longer in series with the optocoupler.

I used a TIC206. That can deliver 4 amperes. Keep in mind though that the copper tracks of the PCB will not be able to withstand 4 Amperes. For any serious load, solder a piece of copper installation wire on the tracks leading from the TRIAC to the connectors and on the track between the two connectors.

In case it is not clear what the inputs are: from top to bottom on the second picture:
+5Volts
Interrupt signal (going to D2 on arduino)
Triac signal (coming from D3 on Arduino)
Ground

NOTE:
If you have an H11AA1or IL 250, 251 or 252 opto-coupler then you do not need the bridge rectifier. These have two anti-parellel diodes and thus can handle AC. It is pin compatible with the 4N25, just pop it in and solder 2 wire-bridges between R5 and + and R7 and -. The LTV814 is not pincompatible

<p>Hello. I made a board for the circuit, although I couldn't get the TIC206 and found a replacement. In fact I've tried 2 TRIACs and have no clue why it's not working after studying the datasheets. I have some images of testing. The first is the output of the 4N25 zero-crossing detector (1V/div, x1 probe), the 2nd is the arduino output to the circuit, and the 3rd and 4th are the output (pin 4) of the MOC3021, 5v/div, x1 probe and x10 probe. Looks like a little less than 220V RMS to me, but this is feeding the gate of the TRIAC. This happened with both the MAC228A and BTA30-800 TRIACS.</p><p>The bulb briefly flashes when I touch the scope probe to the gate. What do you think I've got wrong?</p>
<p>unless the two dots in picture 2 mean anything rather than being reflections I would say that there is no output from the arduino.</p><p>Did you measure it directly on the port or maybe on the input side of the optocoupler?</p><p>please do the following:- put yr arduino aside and put 5V on the inout of the circuit.</p><p>is yr lamp on?</p><p>remove the 5v input</p><p>is yr lamp off?</p><p>if that doesnt work, check yr circuit.</p><p>if that works, please attach yr arduino and write a high to the pin connected to the circuit.</p><p>if that doesnt work, check the connection withyr arduino, make sure it is the proper pin.</p><p>let me know the outcome</p>
<p>Nupe.</p><p>Those two dots are from a test program I adapted from your code. They are from the arduino and go back and forth as I cycle from 5 to 128 and back.</p><p>I'll go through it with a multimeter tonight and check for shorts</p>
<p>And I tried a simple HIGH on the arduino with no joy</p>
<p>does that mean you wrote a HIGH to the pin and that had no effect?</p><p>in that case, write a high and measure the DC voltage on the low voltage/input pins of the optocoupler and subsequently the AC voltage over the secundary/high voltage side of the optocoupler</p>
And thnks bloke, you've been very helpful
<p>my pleasure</p>
Why do we get a humming noise when we controll ceiling fan through a triac. I have made a remote controled circuit for controlling light and fan. Used the above zerocrossing method. When the fan is on full speed there is no noise but when i reduce the fan speed the noise is prominent at low speed the fan makes noise. I guess it is due to the reason that the fan gets 220v form mains and when i reduce the speed there is less current flowing through the Triacs. I don't know the exact reason of the humming noise but im sure there is no problem with the fan :-P what can ne the possible reason behind it and what is the solution. Thanks
<p>well as I said a Triac is not ideal for an inductive load but it will work. Inductive loads are designed to use clean, smooth sine waves. They don't like it when their source of power is all chopped up. If you do use a dimmer -that chops the sine wave- with an inductive load, you will most likely notice that it (the motor or transformer) begins to hum or buzz.<br>is your ceiling fan one that already has a switch for say 3 speeds (usually a cord coming down from the fan)?</p>
And thnks bloke, you've been very helpful
I did try it with 33k 2watt and it worked! I tested it for the last 24hours..and they did not burn out they didnt even heat up a lot.. But they are geting moderately hot but I guess they are at constant temperature.. My last question is, will the constant temperature destroy the resistor over time in a period of 1-2 months? Thanks in advance for all your help sir.
<p>just an extra remark. If earlier your 2 Watt 30k burned out and now yr 2Wat 33k do well where in fact 1/2 Watt would be OK you have a problem in your circuit or messed up your resistor values. I strongly advise you to check yr circuit and do the test I suggested</p>
<p>it should not. Those 2 Watt resistors should be able to carry 366mW. Still, it is odd that you had those problems.Have you tried the tests that I mentioned earlier? especially running the circuit without a lam or arduino attached. If your resistors then suddenly dont get hot you know you have a circuit mistake somewhere</p>
Il definitely check my pcb as you said.. Do you have 110v ac or 220v ac.. At my place i have 220v. Does that matter.. How come your resistors do not get hot at all even if you use 1/2 watt. My zerocrossing circuit works very well no issues there.. Just the resistor heating problem is stopping me from manufacturing my product..
<p>I have 220 Volt<br>My resistors don't get hot because they are 33k so in total 66k thus the power is U&sup2;/R=733mW which is 366mW per resistor.<br>The fact that yours get hot is either because you dont have 33 k or because you have a mistake in yr circuit</p>
Sir thanks for your prompt reply.. But i did try 2watt 30k x2 resistors just like your circuit design but they burned out over night. Then i tried 2watt 15k x2 even they got too hot in an hour. Iv been struggling with this problem for too long.. Plz can you suggest an aleternative solution.. Thanks in advance.
<p>well as I said the 15k only increases the problem.<br>If even the 2watt 33k resistors burned out over night that means there is more than 4 watt being burned in the zerocross signal and that is definitely not right. I use I think 1/2 Watt each, have had it on for a long time and none of the problems you describe. <br>I start to think maybe there is an error in your circuit.<br>I suggest the following, please carefully check your PCB/connections.<br>if that doesnt give you anything and you still have 33 k resistors 1 Watt, please remove your Arduino, remove any load (such as a lamp) and plug the circuit ino the mains as usual. Please check if they get hot at the same rate<br>(Ofcourse only check after unplugging)</p>
Sir. I am making remote controled light and fan.. I used your circuit for the zerocrossing purpose.. It works great.. I used 2x 30k 1watt resistors we have 220v mains..it works fine but resistors heat up.. And in 4-5 hours they burn out.. What is the possible solution...how will use of 2x15k resistor affect? Sir im in an urjnt need of solution.. It will be great if you could assist me asap. Thankyou your doing a great job.
<p>the total power consumption in both resistors is a bit less than 1 Watt (u^2 / R)</p><p> so that is a bit less than a 1/2 Watt for each resistor so if each resistor is 1Watt it should be enough. Nevertheless, increase them to two watt.</p><p>15k is no use, that will be even hotter.</p>
<p>hello i've tried to make the circuit but when i plug it to my AC source, my plug burnt and my whole room filled with smoke :| . could you please tell me whats wrong ? i'm newbie in electronics. </p>
<p>Sir,Is there any instructable to controll ac fan spreed using arduino and android?I could not find.</p>
<p>The fan question must be the single most asked question i get on this instructable :-)<br>May I suggest you go through the comments and my reply.<br>In short, TRIACS or not the most optimal for inductive control but they can do it.<br>With regard to adding android:<br>what you need to do is have your arduino check the serial port for a value that controls the speed, connect a bluetooth module and then write an app that sends that number over bluetooth.<br>I have seen apps like that to regulate a light, but that is the same principle, but if you cant find an app, it is easy to write one yourself. Can I suggest 'appinventor2' to write an app.</p>
<p>hello grate work any idea how to control washing machine motor and how to use the tacho for preventing low speed on load thank you</p>
<p>TRIACs are not the most ideal component for inductive loads but they can do it. make sure that you have a TRIAC capable of the power needed and add a snubber network.<br>I am not sure what you mean with &quot;how to use the tacho for preventing low speed on load&quot;</p>
<p>I constructed the circuit, and the triac seems to be firing correctly. My light won't dim correctly thought. I put the basic dimming program you provided in step 4 on the arduino, but the light flickers rather than dimming. I'm guessing it is a timing issue. I am on a 120v 60Hz grid, and have changed the values in the program accordingly. Any suggestions?</p>
<p>yes it seems your circuit isnt doing at all what the program is supposed to do. Can you do the following for me:</p><p>keep your arduino connected but simply write a LOW to the output-what happens?</p><p>then simply write a HIGH to the output pin.-what happns then?</p><p>Then disconnect your Arduino totally, but leave your triac circuit connected to the grid-what happens then?</p>
<p>I wrote LOW to output, light stayed off.</p><p>I wrote HIGH to output, light stayed on, no flickering.</p><p>Disconnected arduino, light stayed off.</p><p>So it looks like the triac is working as expected. I wonder if it's an <br>issue with the timing on the interrupt. I have the 60Hz signal coming <br>from the mains passing through the 400v bridge rectifier, which produces<br> a 120Hz signal. This is passed to the 4n25, then to the interrupt pin. I<br> changed the values in the program from 75 to 65, and from 10 to 8.33 as<br> instructed. Oscilloscope showed a pretty clean 120Hz signal going to interrupt pin.</p>
<p>Well if you looked at it on a scope you should have been able to see the timing.</p><p>The reason for the test was to see if there might have been haphazard firing of the TRIAC, which is usually caused by a 'dirty' PSU<br>Nevertheless it proves teh TRIAC circuit is working well.<br>As you also have a clean 120 Hz signal going to the interrupt pin (did you indeed measure it on the collector of the 4n25??) I doubt the problem is there<br><br>Final question... did you also adapt the values of R4 and R5?<br>Did the scope show you the voltage of the 120 Hz signal on 4n25? and did it show you the width of the pulse?</p>
<p>I changed the 30k resistors to 15k, and have included a picture of the scope reading which shows some of the values you asked for. The width of the 120Hz signal is 8.310mS, Vpk-pk is 5.12v, Vrms is 1.47v. Still getting inconsistent dimming with basic dimming program.</p><p>One thing I tried was removing the for() statement in the void loop() of the basic dimming program, and after I did that it started dimming consistently. I will attach a video. With the value &quot;dimming&quot; not changing, I was expecting a fixed brightness level, but instead it started running through the dimming cycle.</p><p>Thanks for all your help!</p>
<p>That is odd to say the least. So you are left with<br>dimming=i;<br><br> delay(10);<br>and it is dimming?<br>Well, at least it works :-)</p>
<p>I removed the whole for() statement, so there is nothing in the void loop(), and it is dimming as before (see first screenshot).</p><p>I have tried manually setting dimming = 0 and delay(10), but I am still getting a quick fading cycle. I thought that setting dimming = 0 would leave the triac on for the whole wave cycle, giving me full brightness, but it is still going through a dimming cycle (see second screenshot).</p><p>Can you think of anything that would cause this?</p>
<p>Honestly... I have no idea. Your program is going through a loop that isnt programmed. If you disconnected the Arduino, there was no fading correct?</p>
<p>if you haven' t adapted the 30k resistors into 15 k you should do that. </p><p>If the value is too high (like 30k for 120 V is) then the zerocrossing pulse will be rather wide and start long before the real zerocrossing</p>
<p>great job, can i use in unstable frequency? i want to control my speed of syncronous generator. thx in advance.</p>
I think i can paralel 0-x ing output to INT1 and use pulseIn function to measure frequency, agree? Thx for your atenttion
<p>well i wouldnt directly parallel the two ports, but each give them a seperate signal by means of an extra optocoupler, you could also use 1 pin to measure frequency and keep track of the phase cutting timing, but software wise it might be easier to use two pins, that depends.</p><p>You can use PulseIn, thats is a convenient way but i am not sure if it is the best way as PulsIn will let the program wait, but maybe that is no problem for you</p><p>The best way might be to just use one pin for the zero interrupt, but to use a timer to measure the time between interrupts</p>
<p>my one last question, its possiblle to control 3 phase mode with 1 controller? (i use AVR atmega 32A). If yes tell me how to do it. Thx before.</p>
<p>I presume it is but I am not experienced enough with 3 phase power to give any advice on it</p>
<p>Not entirely sure what you mean with unstable frequencies. You mean on the grid?<br>Syncronous generators in my knowledge are used to generate a voltage from a movement, so I am not sure what speed you want to control. Or do you mean a syncronous motor?<br>TRIACs are not ideal to regulate inductive loads but they can. Just make sure you have a snubber network</p>
<p>yes syncronous generator as you mean, i use water turbine as prime mover. , as we know that consumer load is always changing and i want to use your project to control total generator loads in a way compensate it to dummy loads (incandescent bulb) so that frequency always stable at arround 50 hz. If frequencies more than 50.5 hz increase (dimm up) the bulb, if freq. Less than 49.5 Hz dim down bulb, else do nothing (last state dimm). Thx for your answer</p>
<p>obviously you need a bit more than just this circuit.</p><p>as i understand you want to use this to switch in aload, as ipresume to get the frequency down.</p><p>The problem however is that the period changes and therefore the timing for the triac is difficult to establish.</p><p>what u need to do is to measure the frequency andindeed based on that calculate a new dimfactor. I do not know enough about asyncronous generator to know if and to what extend a load will bring down the frequency but if yes, then yes this circuit can do it, but it might be easier to use my other circuit for that </p><p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/AC-PWM-Dimmer-for-Arduino/">http://www.instructables.com/id/AC-PWM-Dimmer-for-...</a></p><p>but u would still need to add some hardware to measure the frequency</p>
<p>i was read your project pwm ac dimmer, but IGBT that can handle about 8 kw load so very expensive, can i parallel some mosfet with 1 gate driver?</p>
<p>It is mi first Instructable proyect that I made!!! I am very happy!</p><p>I should changed some resistors because the 4n25 does not fire. Instead of using two resistors of 30Kohms, I used two of 15Kohms. I suspect that the bridge rectifier has its own resistance.</p><p>Thanks for all the info.</p><p>Bye!</p><p>PS: My home AC line is 220Volts 60Hertz</p><p>Este es mi primer proyecto que hago de Instructable!!! Estoy muy contento!</p><p>Tuve que hacer unos cambios en las resistencias porque no se disparaba el 4n25. En lugar de usar dos resistencias de 30KOmhs, us&eacute; dos de 15KOmhs. Sospecho que el puente rectificador que us&eacute; tiene resistencia.</p><p>Gracias por toda la informaci&oacute;n.</p><p>Saludos!</p><p>PD: En mi casa la electricidad es de 220Volts a 60 Hertz</p>
<p>Congrats and I am happy you were succesful in building it.<br>The bridge does not have its own resistance. It doesnt work that way. What does happen though with 2x15k, rather than 2x30k is that the zerocrossingssignal becomes narrower. It could have been that you needed that, but the 4n25 should have fired with the particular values.<br>Video looks great !</p>
Could be that. Thatnks for your fast response.
<p>my pleasure. Make sure your 15k resistors can take the heat. should be minimally 800mW dissipation per resistor, so take 2 Watt resistors</p>
<p>I sure will change the resistor to 2watts. But I do not understand why need it.</p><p>If it is only a led pulling some little amps. Obviously I know very very little of electronics.</p><p>Thanks in advance.</p>
<p>Are we talking about the same circuit?<br>What LED are you talking about? The one in the 4n25?<br>that doesnt draw some little amps, it draws miliamps.<br>But the explanation is very simple. The average voltage when on 220V AC after rectifying is about 207 volt.<br>Your 4n25 only needs a few miliamps but it can take 60. The voltage drop over the 4n25 is 5 volt but for sake of easiness just lets forget about that.<br>You have 2x 15 k in series so that makes 30k.<br>The current through that then will be 7 mA<br>the power is U&sup2;/R=1600 mW is 1.6 Watt. Per resistor that is 800mW but as you dont want to push a resistor to its max a 1.5 Watt resistor would be fine</p>
<p>Yes, I am taking about the led inside de 4n25.</p><p>Great explanation!</p><p>Thanks again</p>
<p>My pleasure</p>

About This Instructable

445,247views

373favorites

License:

Bio: I am a physician by trade. After a career in the pharmeceutical world I decided to take it a bit slower and do things I ... More »
More by diy_bloke:AC PWM dimmer for ArduinoThe Arduino and daylight saving time (Europe)Using Reset pin / pin 1 on Attiny without bothering with Fuses
Add instructable to: