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Armor is an indispensable defensive device in ancient wars. I have great interest in it since I was a little kid. Now I have designed and restored an ancient armor system by adding some modern aesthetic elements.

Step 1: Armor Plates

After doing research on ancient armors in Chinese and foreign history, I designed a 13-hole plate for my armor, and send the design to a PUNCH METAL factory to have pieces made.It's made of steel plate.

Step 2: Connecting Plates

I tried using different materials to connect the plates, and finally decited to use Lynon boot laces, because the size is suitable for the holes and they are durable.

Step 3: Making Arm Defence

In the making of the arm defences, the edges of each plate are overlapped from the middle to both sides, and the number of plate diminishes from the shoulder down to the arms.

Step 4: Designing the Lining of the Shoulder

I designed a leather lining for the shouder part, which can distribute the weight of the whole armor, and make it more stable and comfortable when wearing it

Step 5: Making the Collar

I used a kind of machenic device (see the photo) to bend each plate to form different curves, serving the purpose of the collar part.

Step 6: The Effects of Putting the Collar and Arm Defence Together

Step 7: Back Part

The back of the armor is carefully designed to have a slim shape which embodied the modern aesthetic effect

Step 8: Lower Part

When the waist part was finished, I started to make the lower part of the armor in a enlarged way

Step 9: Belt

I used genuine leather to make the belt and the attached leather boxes. On the belt, I nailed some copper dots to produce shining effects, which was based on the research on the armor belts from Chinese Liao, Jin Periods and Yuan Dynasty.

Step 10: Lower Arm Defence

The lower arm defences were made of genuine leather, carving pattern and then dye black.

Step 11: Sword

I used a sword in Tang Dynasty style for my armor system, while the shell of the sword is in Japanese style. The shell was painted by using Japanese Maki-e technique, adding some gold powder into the refined Chinese lacquer paint. When the paint got dried, I hand glassed the sword shell. The pattern of the cotton belt is similiar to the belt of the sword from Tang Dynasty collected in Shosoin of Japan.

Step 12: Archery System----Bow-case

The archery system is in Tibetan style.

Step 13: Archery System----Arrow-case

There are holes in the inside of the arrow case which are made of leather belts to fix the arrows when putting inside.

Step 14: Final Product

<p>for those who insist on saying he overlapped them backwards....NO, HE DIDN'T! a simple google search on antique lamellar armour will prove that, for the majority of lamellar pictured is laced together this way.</p>
<p>not entirely true - overlapping direction differed depending on location on the body, and what type of soldier was wearing it</p>
<p>Aye, this particular design will work well while on horseback and against spearmen and slicing swords (vs hacking swords and axes).<br> The traditional Western Lamellar/scale is more for foot and arrow protection and designed for use with a shield/planc.</p>
Yup! I mean, infantry( what so ever) wore entire solid plates. Cavalry had more commonly chainmail... Wait no! Damn it, not chailmail! You get me right?! Still I don get how the horses supported the medieval knights!!
<p>actually, even the heaviest medieval armor wasn't that heavy: maybe 100 pounds, max (modern soldiers often carry that much in their rucksacks). </p><p>The metal It looks big and bulky, but it is actually very thin</p>
<p>wow, I thought it would be more. I mean, the boiled leather, the chainmail and the big flat iron plates!</p>
Exactly right!
<p>Thank you! So many armchair armorsmiths here.</p>
Gee, I made a carboard chestplate and its not even close to that thing! Man, And so many people that know so much stuff about physics and stuff (durr, nerds {just kidding ya know}). It would be lovely if you described the things better. And also, a korean touch wouldn't be bad you know... Cause I'm korean. Anyways cool thingy!! Im so jealous
Thank you so much for the encouragement!
<p>I am sure the author studied ancient armour deeper than the average commentor. I guess the comments come from a gut feeling that the sword blows would come mostly from above.<br>But layering the plates the other way around would seriously restrict movements, especially around the shoulder<br></p>
<p>if there was any restriction, japanes sode would have never been laced together like they were. they were done the exact same way. restriction doesn't come from the overlap method, but how tight they plates are laced together. i can attest to that with the experiments i've done with riveted scale.</p><p>as regard to sword blows? there's more power in an upward thrust due to body mechanics. when the wrist is twisted to bring the sword tip down, it torques the shoulder to the inside and reduces how much power can be transmitted. &quot;gut feelings&quot; are irrelevant.</p>
<p>YES!!!!!!!YOU GET IT!!</p>
<p>*smiles and bows*</p>
Smiles and bows back to you:)
<p>Heads up to the author and readers, this armor is called lamellar and was used across Asia and the Middle East for much of the Medieval Period. It mainly replaced the use of archaic &quot;scale&quot; armor. Hopefully this helps some people out :)</p>
Thank you very much for the information! Very informative! You are an expert in this field? May I ask?
<p>Scale is something else entirely from lamellar. Think Lorica Plumata. Scale doesn't leave the binding cord (or chain) exposed like lamellar armor does. They are quite different in their origins and cultures that used them (mostly). It was also used well outside the European Medieval Period (in both directions) by different cultures. </p>
<p>This is absolutely gorgeous.</p>
<p>anyone realy interested in Japanese armour should google (THE ARMOUR BOOK IN HONCHO GUNKIKO) this book has in detail of all types of Japanese armour with drawings to make a full set from card, it has some gruesome details of recorded battles like &quot; whilst fighting individual combat I was struck on my Helmet such a violent blow I was temporarily blinded, in my desperate situation I cut downwards with all my strength in the hope of at least giving me time to recover but as my vision cleared I found that I had cut through the helmet head mempo and neck guard with the one blow&quot; </p>
<p>That is a beautiful set of armor! How many plates did it take to make it? I really like the style. </p>
Thank you for your compliment!there are about 1000pieces of plates!
<p>Great Job!!! Look fantastic</p>
<p>I'd love to make something like this myself! only problem is, i wouldn't know where to get the metal pieces. beautifull piece of workmanship!</p>
<p>This is beautifully done and artistically savvy! nice work!</p>
<p>I really love your armour. Where did you get the golden round fittings for the quiver?</p>
<p>Спасибо большое. У вас золотые руки .А можно ещё что-то ваше посмотреть???</p>
This is an awesome peice! Which company did you use to do the punch ptessing?
<p>Great looking armor, how many plates were needed?</p>
<p>What supplier did you (he) use to get these metal plates, and I was wondering if I could have the design for the metal plates?<br></p>
<p>Very interesting and well written......but......you left out important facts LOL What was the finished weight of the armour?It is real pretty but if it is 40 kilos or more my feet would be blistered to death in them cowboy boots in less than a mile ^_^</p>
luckily it weighs 20 kilos, and you won't be hurt????
<p>Congratulations - this looks absolutely amazing! Is there any chance of getting a detailed instructable on the making of the quiver?</p>
Thanks! Will do in the future! Be good luck with you!
Es un excelente trabajo, fino y muy buen acabado y me gustar&iacute;a intentarlo, muchas felucidades 6 gracias por compartirlo.
Dude, this looks awesome. Have fun storming the castle!
<p>Awesome! Beautiful work!</p>
<p>This is VERY nice, but I have 2 oddball questions:<br>1) can it stop a zombie;</p><p>2) can it stop a 9mm?</p>
<p>zombie,YES! 9mm,NOOOO!!</p>
<p>From personal experience unless those plates are SUPER SUPER thin(which from the weight described they are not) I would say it would easily stop a 9mm. 9mm is not a very high powered round. In fact that armor would probably stop most handgun rounds regardless of caliber. I've had the opportunity to wear and examine a piece of homemade armor, that was just hand pounded stainless steel, not very thick. I don't remember what gauge but it was a little thinner than the stuff you are using, though not by much. It stopped 9mm and .45 both. However any rifle round would zip right through. Had 1/4 inch thick plate, shot it with 7.62 and 5.56, and it zipped right through it better than a hot knife through butter. So indeed I believe your armor would stop most handgun rounds. However due to the muzzle energy a 9mm would leave a nasty bruise and a .45 would probably break a rib or two.</p>
<p>Beautiful Armor ! As I know that a half-shirt of chain mail weighs around 30 pounds</p><p>(or around 14 kg?) I'm wondering how much your armor suit weighs ?</p>
<p>It's about 25kg for all.</p>
<p>very nice! couple of questions, </p><p>how much does it weigh? </p><p>how much did it cost?</p><p>how long did it take?</p><p>always great to see armour instructables!</p>
<p>Hmmmm....even though it is clearly horseman's armor, I could also see it serving quite well in foot combat. A little vulnerable to an overhand stab but every armor type has a weak spot soooo.... </p><p>Oh, also, on the vambraces/bracers, that wouldn't by any chance be stylized adaptation of the Crest of Gondor would it?</p><p>Eh...doesn't matter. That's a remarkable piece of work, 2 thumbs up!!</p>
<p>Beautiful work. How much does the armor weigh?</p>
<p>looks great, really great</p>
Thanks many!
<p>Wow! Excellent design! &ordm;-&ordm; Domo arigato gozaimasu -_-</p>
<p>Very fine piece of work! I just have a question though. Shouldn't the plates be layered the other way? For functionality reasons a downward moving blade would be caught in the armor layers and damage the lanyard work in between the plates eventually rendering the armor ineffective. </p>
<p>Beautiful job, I agree. But all the lamellar armour designs I have seen have the scales layered with upper rows over lower, so that there are no edges to catch downward strikes. </p>

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