I used safety gear whilst using power tools and suggest you do the same. Any injuries caused as a result of following my instructable are at your own risk. If you can't agree to this you didn't get the design from me.
The dimensions used suited my rotary tool and may need to be adjusted to suit yours. It doesn't damage the tool and it can be removed in a minute when required for something else.
Step 1: Items Required
1000 x 160 18mm plywood
25mm drywall screws
25mm x3mm aluminum strip
4 penny washers
m5 x40mm cap head bolt
1 m5 repair washer
1 m5 tee nut
This is the equipment I used but you can make it happen without
router with 1/4" cutter
Drill with 10mm bit and a forstner bit to the diameter of the tee nut flange
Step 2: Getting Started
The rotary tool was 55mm in diameter. Halving my board to provide the two layers left me with 45mm at either side to centralise the tool.
So anyway I traced around the tool laying it so that I could work the controls with ease.
After drawing around the tool I went to cut it out on the bandsaw and promptly broke the blade so had to resort to the jigsaw.
Step 3: Setting the Rotary Tool
The front strap is designed to be trapped between the tool and its' collar. The strap was measured and the diameter of the tool neck is cut from the middle. A sort of D shape, open at the bottom. There are two holes drilled either side and these are drywalled screwed at a 45 degree angle to provide lateral stability.
Step 4: Routing the Adjuster Slot
In the next section the adjuster is described in more detail but for now, two "feet" need making from the reserved plywood. I cur two 50mm wide strips and glued and screwed onto the outside extremes. This provides room for the adjuster and the 5mm overlap provides support for the rotary tool.
Step 5: The Adjuster Rail
At the last full in point mark through the slot at it's furthest end. This is where the hole will be drilled for the adjuster clamp.
Drill through with sufficient diameter drill to accept a M5 tee nut and rebate the bottom of the adjuster so that if recesses above the bottom of the slide.
The arrow stop is just some scrap ply cut to the same width as the slide with a 10mm countersink in the middle to house the nock of the arrow.
This is then glued and screwed so that the depth of the countersink is in line with the full inch mark.
Step 6: Finishing Off
To finish off I used some of the remaining allow strip to provide a cutting guard in front of the disc. This was drilled with the 10mm bit so that it can be adjusted as the disc wears. I need to attach a safety guard over the disc itself but the 3mm allow wouldn't bend well enough to fit the curvature. I have since got a thick plastic bottle from which I have cut a ring 25mm wide. This is screwed down and sits over the disc.
I clamped the cutter down to a work surface as you really don't want your arrows damaged if it moves when you don't expect or want it to.
Happy arrow cutting.