Arrow Quiver 'Drop Leg Style'





Introduction: Arrow Quiver 'Drop Leg Style'

About: applied simplicity

I wanted to have a quiver that is easily accessible and still keeps the arrows away from bushes while roaming through the woods. I didn't like the generic side quivers that keep tangling around my legs while walking. And the back quivers didn't work for me. So I started to think about a quiver that is firmly attached to the belt and to the leg. It should be easy to draw the arrows and put them back in. And while walking the arrows shouldn't poke me all the time.
I ended up with this quiver and I'm really happy with the design. It's very convenient while in the woods and lets me forget I'm wearing one at all. It has a twist that fits perfectly to my hip and down to my leg. This twist tilts the arrows a bit to the back side, thus ensuring that the nocks don't poke me in the back.
And additionally there is the option to attach a knife sheath directly to the quiver with chicago screws through the rivets on the side of the quiver. But that will come later...


- Thick belt leather
- Rivets
- 5 Chicago screws
- 2 Cordura straps
- Leather glue
- Cutter
- Dremel (sanding and polishing bit)
- Drill

PS: My experience with leather is highly limited. In fact it's the second time I'm working with it. So there might be better ways to do some things. Feel free to make it much better!

UPDATE1: The pattern for the three leather pieces is now attached. But be careful, the first page is format A3 (2 sheets of A4) and the second and third is A4. The distance measurements are in mm (metrics. Greetings from Europe...). However, even if you print it the wrong size, you can use the angles on my template and together with the distance measurements you can easily make your own pattern and adapt it to your needs.

UPDATE2: Instructable user LAZY GLEN did an amazing job and traced my crappy sketch and made a DXF file and a PDF of the dxf file. The measurements are very close to what I used on my quiver. Many thanks to Lazy Glen!

Step 1: Cut Out the 3 Pieces

I made a paper template that I tested on my leg to ensure that it got the right shape. Initially I wanted to make the main part and the belt loops from one piece of leather. But the leather is much nicer on the front side, so I decided to use a 3 piece approach. Make sure that you cut the leather a bit larger than the template since the bending of the leather into the twisted form will use a bit more material. To get a nice edge you will later cut away one or two millimeter anyway.

Step 2: Bend the Leather

Once you have the three pieces you can start bringing them into shape. While the belt loops (make sure they're wide enough for your belt) and leg loops are rather easy and self explanatory, the main part is a bit tricky. Soak the leather thoroughly with warm water for a few minutes. Once it looses the stiffness and is formable you can fold it. To get the channel for the arrow spines I temporarily inserted a piece of PVC tubing. I stuffed a piece of cloth into the entry flap to make it stand out. This flap will make it really convenient to put the arrows into the quiver. You don't have to look where the entry is, only put the point of the arrow to the flap and it will be guided in. I used several clamps to hold the leather together while drying. Make sure that you use something between the clamps and the wet leather. Otherwise you will end up with deep pressure marks where the clamps have been. It's best when you start giving the leather the twisted shape. It will be much easier to glue it together correctly later when it already has this shape. Let it dry over night and take a beer.

Step 3: Connect the Leg Loop

If you have a device to make holes into leather use it. Otherwise you can use a drill, but be careful with the leather! I used 3 chicago screws to attach the lower part of the leg loops. You want to sand down (I used a Dremel tool...)  the edge of the leg loop that will be  glued to the front and back side of the quiver. This will give you a 'seamless' edge when everything is glued together.
Now you can glue the upper part of the leg loop to the back side of the quiver. When it's dry make 2 holes and secure it with two rivets.


Step 4: Connect the Belt Loops

Exactly like in the previous step, sand down one edge of the belt loops part to ensure a nice edge. Insert the belt loops piece into the quiver and glue it down. Once it's dry you can make holes and rivet everything together. On the lower right hole I used a chicago screw. Of course you can also use longer rivets. I had only short rivets (barely able to connect two layers of leather) and longer chicago screws. So I used the chicago screws everywhere where 3 layers of leather are connected.
If you haven't done it already, glue and rivet the loops for the belt.

Step 5: Glue Down the Tube

Apply enough glue around the edge of the main piece and over and under the leg loop piece. I let it dry for 10 minutes and pressed it firmly together (proceed according to the glue you use!). Make sure that it's already in the twisted shape. Once it's glued together you won't be able to twist it later. Again I used some scrap pieces of leather to prevent pressure marks on the leather. Let it dry over night.

Step 6: Punch in the Rivets

Now it's time to attach all the remaining rivets along the side of the quiver. If you choose the right size, you will be able to attach things through the rivets with chicago screws. Just thinking...

Step 7: Sand Down the Edges

Take a cutter and cut away all excessive material along the side of the quiver. Cutting away a bit of both layers will give you a nice edge. After that I used the Dremel sanding tool to smooth where I failed with the cutter. This will produce some nasty leather dust. Use a mask and/or do it outdoors. Not that I did it in the living room. Not really. Not all of it. Maybe.

Step 8: Polish the Edges

Now your edges are really smooth but look much too bright. I used beeswax together with the Dremel polishing tool (white fluffy cylinder). Let the Dremel run on low speed, touch the beeswax to coat the polishing tool with wax, increase the speed and apply it to the edges. Once it touches the edge, the friction heat will melt the wax into the leather and give you a perfect edge. Repeat until you are happy with the result.
I actually used Fjällräven Grönland Wax. It's a wax block to waterproof canvas. But the main ingredient is beeswax. Everything similar will do.

Step 9: The Finished Quiver

Once you have  finished everything you can take a bit of leather grease to protect the quiver from future storms. If the shape of the spine tunnel is not yet perfect, you can make the inside of the quiver wet again and fine tune it a bit. Otherwise you are finished and have a very unique quiver that will hopefully meet your expectations. Mine did so. I'm completely satisfied with the look and the usability of it. 

2 People Made This Project!


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Great quiver!

I was wondering what thickness of leather you used?

And also what the size of your Chicago screws and eyelets were?

Thanks for uploading this! It looks really awesome :-)

1 reply

Hey, better late than never. The thickness of the leather is around 2-2.5mm and it was leather that was meant to become belts. You can use pretty much any leather around that thickness if it is stiff enough. If you got the leather, the chicago screws just have to match the combined thickness of your leather layers.

Regards, D.

Thanks for sharing! I am a sewist/quilter. I found your post while searching for quiver patterns to peruse. I usually modify my own, taking bits & bests from other designs and patterns I see and like. I don't think I will do leather, but perhaps can make the tilt using a dart or something. You have very nice pdfs, drawings and tutorial. Thank you! If I sew one, I will send you a comment and pics

Beyond amazing! I don't suppose you would be willing to make one with a few customizations and sell it?... (I am not very handy lol)

A beautiful piece, where did you get your leather?

Looks great man, I want to make one like this, could you tell me what leather you used like the OZ of it

I hope I'm not duplicating a previous post, Dominik. I've been having some technical difficulties.

The armguard was simple. I used Photoshop to scale it correctly. Then I printed it, cut it, and traced it on the leather. I need to use a recently purchased leather punch to clean up the holes; the drill made them a bit ragged and puckered. I used brass rivets and lace hooks as hardware.

The quiver was bit problematic without using a commercial printer to generate a template. Since I had the measurements, I just needed to replicate the angles. I simply folded along the relevant lines at key points to create the angles and used the paper as a protractor on the leather. The curved arrow guide at the top was more of a challenge. To make a long story short, I figured its zenith and nadir relative to a centered "Y" axis and an "X" axis running across from the beginning of the curve (a real bitch, since I'm not the engineering type). Then I basically eyeballed it (yep, definitely not an engineer).

Please note: for left-handed archers, the quiver template must be a mirror-image of the original. Left-handers will wear it on their left hips; the arrow guide and leg twist will be reversed.

I've ordered leather stamping tools and a swivel knife, so I can tool the next armguard and quiver with fancy patterns.

1 reply

You did an amazing job!!! You're my new favorite reader! :) I'm so glad you posted some pics! And trust me, being able to "eyeball" something comes pretty close to the definition of being an engineer! i might have an idea for silencing the quiver. When i'm back from military and find the time i'll send you a message. Thanks again and i hope you'll enjoy your beautiful new equipment. Greetings from switzerland.

I haven't hunted yet. But examining the quiver I built from your template, I think I could fit at least 3 arrows with Muzzy or Rage fixed 2-bladed tips. I used a PVC pipe approximately 1 3/8" inch (about 35 mm) outside diameter to widen the tube while shaping the quiver. Many, if not most, 2-blade fixed broadheads have diameters 7/8" - 1 1/8" (22mm - 29mm). I might come up with a quick-lace system that would prevent rattle while stalking, yet a silent release to access an arrow.

I just completed your design. It turned out beautiful! The leg twist is crucial and makes this field quiver so unique. All the rivets and screws are nickel. To keep everything "natural," I used a leather lace to secure the quiver to my leg. Even shooting at an indoor range, I like how the quiver doesn't bang against my leg when I walk to and from the target. I also made your arm guard out of the same piece as the quiver. They look great and function well when I shoot traditional (recurve). Thanks for great templates!

1 reply

Wow, you made them both?! If it's not too much to ask, I really would like to see how yours look like. Can you post some pictures? I have to admit that I'm a bit proud that you used my templates! :) Best regards.

I can't tell from your photos...will this quiver carry broadheads (bladed points) or just field tipped arrows?

1 reply

If you build it like this it will only carry field tips since the tube is not that wide. However, you could make the tube wider and shorter. There are some people that have done similar things.

I bought it. However, it would be very easy to build it yourself. Maybe I'll upload a pattern and instructions, since a lot of people ask for it. But the design is not from me!

Okay sweet i cant wait the only thing that stinks is that my nearest hobby lobby is 2 hours away so i have to get creative when finding leather.

What kind of recurve bow would you suggest that i wont have to pay out the wazoo for i mean i already have a hunting bow and its compound but i really like recurve and i do the same thing as you i like roaming around the woods.

The best deal I found was from Samick sports (brand). They have a takedown recurve bow that retails for about 150$ US.Check Sportsman's Warehouse or 3 Rivers Archery.