Introduction: Arrow Quiver 'Drop Leg Style'
I wanted to have a quiver that is easily accessible and still keeps the arrows away from bushes while roaming through the woods. I didn't like the generic side quivers that keep tangling around my legs while walking. And the back quivers didn't work for me. So I started to think about a quiver that is firmly attached to the belt and to the leg. It should be easy to draw the arrows and put them back in. And while walking the arrows shouldn't poke me all the time.
I ended up with this quiver and I'm really happy with the design. It's very convenient while in the woods and lets me forget I'm wearing one at all. It has a twist that fits perfectly to my hip and down to my leg. This twist tilts the arrows a bit to the back side, thus ensuring that the nocks don't poke me in the back.
And additionally there is the option to attach a knife sheath directly to the quiver with chicago screws through the rivets on the side of the quiver. But that will come later...
- Thick belt leather
- 5 Chicago screws
- 2 Cordura straps
- Leather glue
- Dremel (sanding and polishing bit)
PS: My experience with leather is highly limited. In fact it's the second time I'm working with it. So there might be better ways to do some things. Feel free to make it much better!
UPDATE1: The pattern for the three leather pieces is now attached. But be careful, the first page is format A3 (2 sheets of A4) and the second and third is A4. The distance measurements are in mm (metrics. Greetings from Europe...). However, even if you print it the wrong size, you can use the angles on my template and together with the distance measurements you can easily make your own pattern and adapt it to your needs.
UPDATE2: Instructable user LAZY GLEN did an amazing job and traced my crappy sketch and made a DXF file and a PDF of the dxf file. The measurements are very close to what I used on my quiver. Many thanks to Lazy Glen!
Step 1: Cut Out the 3 Pieces
I made a paper template that I tested on my leg to ensure that it got the right shape. Initially I wanted to make the main part and the belt loops from one piece of leather. But the leather is much nicer on the front side, so I decided to use a 3 piece approach. Make sure that you cut the leather a bit larger than the template since the bending of the leather into the twisted form will use a bit more material. To get a nice edge you will later cut away one or two millimeter anyway.
Step 2: Bend the Leather
Once you have the three pieces you can start bringing them into shape. While the belt loops (make sure they're wide enough for your belt) and leg loops are rather easy and self explanatory, the main part is a bit tricky. Soak the leather thoroughly with warm water for a few minutes. Once it looses the stiffness and is formable you can fold it. To get the channel for the arrow spines I temporarily inserted a piece of PVC tubing. I stuffed a piece of cloth into the entry flap to make it stand out. This flap will make it really convenient to put the arrows into the quiver. You don't have to look where the entry is, only put the point of the arrow to the flap and it will be guided in. I used several clamps to hold the leather together while drying. Make sure that you use something between the clamps and the wet leather. Otherwise you will end up with deep pressure marks where the clamps have been. It's best when you start giving the leather the twisted shape. It will be much easier to glue it together correctly later when it already has this shape. Let it dry over night and take a beer.
Step 3: Connect the Leg Loop
If you have a device to make holes into leather use it. Otherwise you can use a drill, but be careful with the leather! I used 3 chicago screws to attach the lower part of the leg loops. You want to sand down (I used a Dremel tool...) the edge of the leg loop that will be glued to the front and back side of the quiver. This will give you a 'seamless' edge when everything is glued together.
Now you can glue the upper part of the leg loop to the back side of the quiver. When it's dry make 2 holes and secure it with two rivets.
MAKE SHURE YOU DO NOT FORGET THIS STEP. ONCE THE MAIN PART IS GLUED TOGETHER AND RIVETED, YOU NO LONGER HAVE ACCESS TO THESE TWO RIVETS. DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU! :)
Step 4: Connect the Belt Loops
Exactly like in the previous step, sand down one edge of the belt loops part to ensure a nice edge. Insert the belt loops piece into the quiver and glue it down. Once it's dry you can make holes and rivet everything together. On the lower right hole I used a chicago screw. Of course you can also use longer rivets. I had only short rivets (barely able to connect two layers of leather) and longer chicago screws. So I used the chicago screws everywhere where 3 layers of leather are connected.
If you haven't done it already, glue and rivet the loops for the belt.
Step 5: Glue Down the Tube
Apply enough glue around the edge of the main piece and over and under the leg loop piece. I let it dry for 10 minutes and pressed it firmly together (proceed according to the glue you use!). Make sure that it's already in the twisted shape. Once it's glued together you won't be able to twist it later. Again I used some scrap pieces of leather to prevent pressure marks on the leather. Let it dry over night.
Step 6: Punch in the Rivets
Now it's time to attach all the remaining rivets along the side of the quiver. If you choose the right size, you will be able to attach things through the rivets with chicago screws. Just thinking...
Step 7: Sand Down the Edges
Take a cutter and cut away all excessive material along the side of the quiver. Cutting away a bit of both layers will give you a nice edge. After that I used the Dremel sanding tool to smooth where I failed with the cutter. This will produce some nasty leather dust. Use a mask and/or do it outdoors. Not that I did it in the living room. Not really. Not all of it. Maybe.
Step 8: Polish the Edges
Now your edges are really smooth but look much too bright. I used beeswax together with the Dremel polishing tool (white fluffy cylinder). Let the Dremel run on low speed, touch the beeswax to coat the polishing tool with wax, increase the speed and apply it to the edges. Once it touches the edge, the friction heat will melt the wax into the leather and give you a perfect edge. Repeat until you are happy with the result.
I actually used Fjällräven Grönland Wax. It's a wax block to waterproof canvas. But the main ingredient is beeswax. Everything similar will do.
Step 9: The Finished Quiver
Once you have finished everything you can take a bit of leather grease to protect the quiver from future storms. If the shape of the spine tunnel is not yet perfect, you can make the inside of the quiver wet again and fine tune it a bit. Otherwise you are finished and have a very unique quiver that will hopefully meet your expectations. Mine did so. I'm completely satisfied with the look and the usability of it.
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