Introduction: Assemble Instruction of Geeetech Acrylic Prusa I3 Pro C

Safety Instructions

Building the printer will require a certain amount of physical dexterity, common sense and a thorough understanding of what you are doing. We have provided this detailed instruction to help you assemble it easily.

However ultimately we cannot be responsible for your health and safety whilst building or operating the printer, with that in mind be sure you are confident with what you are doing prior to commencing with building or buying. Read the entire manual to enable you to make an informed decision.

Building and operating involves electricity, so all necessary precautions should be taken and adhered to, the printer runs on 12V supplied by a certified power supply, so you shouldn’t ever have to get involved with anything over 12V but bear in mind there can still be high currents involved and even at 12V they shouldn’t be taken lightly.

High temperatures are involved with 3D Printing, the Extrusion nozzle of the hot end can run about 230°C, the heated bed runs 110°C and the molten plastic extruded will initially be at around 200°C, so special care and attention should be made when handling these parts of the printer during operation.

We wouldn’t recommend leaving your printer running unattended, or at least until you are confident to do so. We cannot be held responsible for any loss, damage, threat, hurt or other negligent result from either building or using the printer.

Step 1: Preparation

1. Unpack the kit and check if all parts are in the box and check the condition of each part, there might be some damage during shipping. To help you with this, there is BOM in the box and each bag was labeled with part number. 2. Contact our customer service immediately by email or through the website if you find any missing or damaged parts. And on the bottom of the BOM, there is a signature of reviewer, please take a picture of it and attach the picture in your mail. 3. Read through each chapter of these instructions to gain an over-all idea of what is involved and how long it might take, before starting on the work described. 4. Before you start, you can put all the part in order to save your time especially those screws and nuts. Do not mix them up. 5. Ensure you have the necessary skills to carry out the work, or enlist the help of someone who does. 6. Work on a big firm table or bench in a clean dry well-lit area. 7. This kit contains tiny parts; please keep them away from kids under 3. 8. Ask for help if you run into any problems - our contact details are on the website and we will always do our best to resolve any problems encountered.

Step 2: Unfold the Box and Check the Package List

Unfold the package and take all the parts out to check the condition of the items.

All the acrylic plate has been etched with part ID and the plate is covered with a sheet of kraft paper, you need to tear them off.

Tips:
1. Before assembly, you are advised to put all the parts, especially the screws and nuts in order, which will save you a lot of time looking for the required parts. 2. The part ID is corresponding to the number labeled on the bag of every part. Some parts may not have label, you can refer to the pictures on the package list.

Step 3: Assemble the 2 Threaded Rods.

2 X M10 threaded rod

2 X Y plate connecting plate

6 X M8 spring washer

8 X M10 washer

8 X M10 nut

Thread the nuts
and washers into the two M10 threaded rods separately. The order should be:

1) Thread the acrylic fender (Y plate connecting plate) in the middle.

2) Thread the M10 washer > M8 spring washer >M10 nut > M10 nut > M10 washer on the left

3) Thread theM10 washer < M8 spring washer < M10 nut < M10 nut< M8 spring washer < M10 washer on the right

Step 4: Assemble the 2 Smooth Rods

2 X M8 smooth rod

4 X LM8UU Linear bearings

Slide 2 bearings on each smooth rod. Before
you slide the bearings please make sure they are clean.

1.2. Attach the front and rear Acrylic support plates of the rods.

2 X Acrylic plate( front)

2 X Acrylic plate( rear)

4 X M10 washer

4 X M10 nut

Step1. Slide the
rods into the acrylic plate; adjust the length so that the smooth rods fit snugly between the front and rear piece.

Step2. Screw up the rods and plate with M10 nut and M10 washer.

* Tips: the Y-axis must be a rectangle,
that is the rods on both side should be parallel, so is the front and back plate. Otherwise it will cause obstruction for the belt later. You can use a Digital Caliper to measure.

Step 5: Assemble the Y Idler

2 X 624ZZ Ball bearing

1 X bearing holder

1 X M3x 20 screw

1 X M3 wing nut

1 X M4x25 screw

1 X M4 lock nut

Step1.Thread the M3 x 20 screw through the bearing holder.

Step2. Put the M4 x25 screw through the
holes with the two 624ZZ bearings in between. Lock the other end with a M4 lock nut. You may need a spanner to tighten locking nut.

Step3. Mount the assembled bearing holder
onto the front support plates. And screw it with a wing nut.

*Please leave enough room for the belt between the ball bearing and the screw.

Step 6: Mount the Y Motor

1 X Y motor fix plate

1 X Stepper motor

1 X pulley

3 X M3x 12 screw

2 X M3x 16 screw

2 X M3square nut

Step1. Mount the
pulley on the motor shaft, one of the screws should be screwed on the cross section of the shaft. Do not screw too tight to turn smoothly.

Step2.
Insert the motor block into the slot; you may need to use a little strength to do this. But be careful in case the Acrylic broke down. Then screw the motor on the block plate with 3 M3 x 12 screws and fix the block plate with 2 M3 x 16 screws and M3 square nut.

Step 7: Build the Printing Platform

1 X Y platform support

4 X Y bearing block

1 X Y belt mount

4 X Zip tie

2 X M3x 10 screw

8 X M3x 20 screw

8 X M3 nut

Step1. Mount the
belt mount on the bottom side of the platform with 2 M3 x 10 screws.

Step2. Mount the
4 bearing blocks on the platform with M3 x 20 screws on the same side with the belt-mount. Screw with M3 nuts.

Step3. Get the
build platform plate zip-tied to the 4 linear bearings of Y- Axis.

*The belt-mount and the fenders are under the platform.

Step 8: Mount the Y –axis Belt.

1 X Timing belt

2 X M3 x 10 screw

2 X M3 washer

Step1. Drill a hole on one end of the belt(the hole can be as the diameter of the M3 screw, leave enough margin )

Step2. Fix the belt on one side of the belt -mount with a M3 x 10 screw and washer.

Step3. Thread the belt around the pulley on the motor and the Y idler.

Step4. Drill a
hole on the other end of the belt and fix it on the belt -mount with a M3 x 10 screw and M3 washer.

*Tips:

1. Before you drill your second hole, make sure to pull belt tightly to make sure to find proper placement of hole for a tight belt, if it is too loose, it will hinder the move of the print platform.

2. Loosen the Y idler wing nut when tightening belt onto the Y belt mount [No. 67] in order to make securing the belt to the block easier. Be sure to tighten wing nut fully once done.

Step 9: Assemble Y - Z Axis

1 X X-Z frame

4 X M3 x 20 screw

4 X M3 nut

Step1. Held
upright the main frame is after the acrylic fender washers on the threaded rods. Here you can use the A2 panel as a reference to measure the distance A1 and A12 (the rear plate).

Step2. Screw up
the main frame to the acrylic fender with M3 x 20 screws.

Step3. Screw up the M10 screw on the threaded rod of Y-axis. You can see the finished picture.

Step 10: Mount the Fan

1 X Fan

4 X M3x 30 screw

4 X M3 locknut

Fix the fan on
the right side of the frame with 4 M3 x 30 screw and locknut. Mind the direction of the wires. (Please pay attention to the fan not others)

Step 11: Assemble the Right and Left Side Panel

1 X Acrylic left frame

1 X Acrylic right frame

8 X M3x 16 screw

8 X M3 square nut

Step1. Screw up
the X-Z frame and the side panel then connect the rear part of the Y axis and the side panel together. You may need to adjust the distance of the X-Z frame to the rear plate.

All you need here is M3 x 16 screws and M3 square nuts.

Step 12: Assemble the Z-axis Bottom Mount

2 X Z Motor fixed plate

4 X Z Motor support plate

10 X M3x 16 screw

10 X M3square nut

Step1. It would be easier to mount the A4/A5 to A6 and A7 first, and then mount the assembled part to A1.

Step2.Screw up the acrylic plates with M3 x 16 screws and M3 square nuts.

*The
right and left bottom mount are different; the left one has a mount for the Z end stop. Please look at the following picture.

Step 13: Assemble the 2 Z Motors

2 X Stepper Motor

8 X M3x 12screw

Step1.Thread the wires of the motors through the holes

Step2. Screw up the motors with 4 M3 x 12 screws. Do the same with the other Z motor.

Step 14: Assemble the Smooth Rods.

2 X 370mm smooth rod

2 X LM8UU linear bearing

Slide the two bearings into the two rods respectively.

Step 15: Assemble the X-Axis Idler

2 X 624ZZ Ball bearing

1 X Bearing holder

1 X M3 X35 screw

1 X M4 X25 screw

1 X M4 locknut

Step1. Put the screw through the Y bearing holder.

Step2.Thread the M4 x 25 screw through the holder with the 624ZZ bearings in between. Lock the other end of a M4 nut.

Step 16: Assemble the X-Axis End

1 X X-axis left end

1 X X-axis right end

2 X LM8UU linear bearing

1 X M3 wing nut

2 X M3 x16 screw

2 X M3 nut

Step1. Mount the assembled idler into the right X-axis end. Here, you can insert the linear bearing into the end.

Step2. Lock it up tightly with a wing nut and insert a linear bearing into the slot. Pay attention to the direction of the idler. Please lock the M3X30 screw tightly in case any jam caused for the belt.

Step3. Insert another linear bearing into the slot of left end. Then lock the bearing with M3x 16 screw and nut. Do the same to the right end.

Step 17: Assemble the X-axis Rods and Both Ends

2 X Brass nut

8 X M3x 16 screw

1 X M3x50 screw

1 X M3 nut

2 X Screw locking ring

Step1.
Thread the screw locking ring to both rods respectively. Screw them up

Step2. Thread the two rods into the two X-axis ends.

Step3. Mount the brass nut under both ends with 4 M3 x 16 screws for each.

Step4. Fix the M3x 5 screw on left end. (This is for the Y end stop)

Step 18: Mount the X-axis Belt Bracket on the Smooth Rods.

1 X print bracket

4 X Zip tie

2 X LM8UU linear bearing

Step1.Mount the print bracket on the smooth rods

1) Insert the linear bearings into the slot of the bracket as you can see from the picture.

2) Thread the zip-tie through the extruder bracket. Tie them up with zip ties.

* the stretching-out part is towards the Left end of X axis.

Step 19: Mount the Extruder Holder.

1 X Extruder bracket

2 X M4x 16screw

2 X M4 nut

Step1. Put the 2 M4 nut into the hole, as shown in the picture.

Step2. Screw up the belt bracket and theextruder support with two M4 x 16screws.

Step 20: Mount the Extruder

1 X MK8 dual extruder

2 X M4x 12 screw

2 X M4 nut

Step1. Mount the assembled extruder
on the extruder support. Fix it up with two M4 x 12 screw and M4 nut.

Tips: keep the two nozzles flush.

Step 21: Mount the Fan for Extruder

1 X Fan

2 X M3 x30 screw

2 X M3 washer

Step 22: Mount the X-axis Motor.

1 X Stepper motor

1 X Pulley

3 X M3x 8 screw

Please
pay attention to the mount direction of the pulley, which is opposite to that of the Y-axis.

Step 23: Amount the X-axis Belt

1 X Timing Belt

2 X Zip tie

Step1. Thread
the belt around pulley on the motor end.

(*The two linear bearings in the picture should be a longer one, please ignore it)

Step2. Another
end of the belt should be threaded through the belt holder on the right end of the X-axis.

(The belt holder in the picture is different from yours, do not worry, it is ok for you to understand)

Step3.
Insert the belt into the slot.

*Pay attention to the tooth mesh of the belt and that on the bracket. Tie up both ends tightly. (This bracket may be a bit different from yours, but it doesn’t matter)

In this step, when attach the second side of the timing belt for the x-axis, h you may not estimate accurately the length of the whole belt until the z-axis stage has been mounted. So, please do not rush to cut the extra belt, you need to re-adjust it later after the z-axis has been mounted.

Step 24: Assemble the X-Z Axis.

2 X Couplings

2 X L322 threaded rod

Step1. Fix the
two couplings on both of the threaded rod. And plug it on the motor shaft.

*Mind the opening of the couplings, the larger opening should be connected to the threaded rods.

Step2. Thread
the threaded rods of Z axis through the brass nuts. It would be easier to do it now. Keep both end of the X axis flush.

(Please ignore the MK8 extruder in this picture, if you are moving to this step, please send me a right picture with dual extruder, thanks.)

Step3. Put the
assembled X-axis on the Z-axis. Then slide the smooth rod into the linear bearings.

(Please ignore the MK8 extruder in this picture, if you are moving to this step; please send me a right picture with dual extruder, thanks.)

Step4.
Assemble the top mount of the Z-axis.

2 X Z-axis top mount

4 X M3x 16 screw

4 X M3 square nut

Step 25: Attach He Heated Bed

1 X MK2AHeat bed

1 X Borosilicate glass

2 X Heating wire

1 X Thermistor

2 X Thermometry wire

4 X Wing nut

4 X Spring

4 X M3x35 screw

4 X clamp

*All
our heated bed is pre-soldered before shipping; you can attach the bed directly here. The following steps are just for reference if you need to change the bed in the future.

Step1. Solder the heating wire on the edge of the bed.

Step2. Take out the 2-pin DuPont wire and take off one the adapter.

Step3. Solder the DuPont wire and the thermistor together.

Step4. Attach the DuPont wire and the thermistor on the bed with Kapton tape.

Step5. Mount the heat bed on the platform with 4 M3 x35 screws and wing nuts with springs in between. Clamp the heat bed and the glass sheet.

*the soldered side is better to be attached downwards.

Step 26: Mount the End Stops.

Step 1.End stop of X-axis

1 X End stop

2 X M2.5 X 12 screw

Step2. End stop of Y-axis

1 X End stop

2 X M2.5 X 16 screw

2 X M2.5 Hex nut

Note:
there is no “+” and “-” for endstops, so there is no difference for the wires.

Step3. End stop of Z-axis

1 X End stop

2 X M 3 X 16 screw

2 X M 3 nut

Here, you may
need to use a bit force to drill the screw into the endstop.

Step 27: Mount the LCD Panel Frame

1 X LCD 2004

1 X LCD frame

2 X LCD frame holder

4 X Acrylic washer

6 X M3 x 20 screw

4 X M3 nut

Step 28: Mount the PSU

1 X Power supply

3 X M3 x 10 screw

2 X M3 x 16 bolt

2 X M3 nut

1 X 3D Power cable

Step1. Mount the PSU (Power supply unit) on the right side panel with 3 M3 x 10 screws.

Step2.Mount the AC socket with M3 x 16 screws.

First you have to take off one end of the connectors to get both the power button and the power socket into the hole.

*(The connection of wire in this picture is very important; you should pay close attention in case the PSU suffer a shortcut)

Step3. Connect the power cable to PSU.

2) Pay attention to the switch on the right side of the PSU, there are two options of voltage: 110 V and 220V, choose according the standard in your country. As shown in the following picture. You can use some hard sticks to reach the switch.

1) Mind the color of the wires. The wrong connection of the wire will cause serious damage to the PSU and even to the control board of the printer.

Comments

author
Ziggy_Mondus (author)2016-05-08

My problem is I am a newby to electronics construction. I built the printer, generally no problems. But now I come to connecting all the wiring and I've hit problems.

I can identify some connections on the GT2560 board, but I am unsure about where to plug in other connections.

It's like, "Hey, build this printer - but we won't show you how to connect it all up. That's for novices to figure out all on their own ha ha ha!

author
mrichard4 (author)2015-11-27

I found this one much more helpful then the ones on the website thankyou

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Bio: think what to print and print what you think---Geeetech
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