Step 14: Final assembly

It's all come down to this - it's time to put a lid on this thing and call it done.

Locate the bottom piece of the lamp's exterior - it should be the only piece of acrylic that you haven't glued to something yet! Back in the dim history of step 2, we marked the outside of this piece. Position the piece so that the outside is down. Apply a generous amount of superglue to the copper side of the sensor plate and then fix the whole electronics stack to the center of the bottom piece.

It's important that the sensor makes the best contact possible with the plexiglass, as air between the sensor and the plastic will have an effect on its sensitivity to touch. It's best to press down firmly on all four corners of the sensor plate for about thirty seconds. At the end of this time, if one or more of the corners pops up when you let go, just apply a little more superglue and press down longer. If you have a pair of spring clamps, they make this part a lot less tedious.

Once the sensor is glued down, it's time to perform our final check of the lamp's functionality before sealing it up. Plug it in, watch the lights flash, and then prove that it's able to sense your hand's presence through the acrylic. Note that with the addition of the acrylic separating your hand and the sensor, it will appear much less sensitive than when you were touching the bare metal. The more skin contact you place on the sensor, the better. It should trigger with one or two knuckles, but it will definitely trigger if you give it your whole palm.

When you're satisfied that everything is still working fine, it's time for the ultimate step. Flip the unfinished box upside down, apply superglue in all the in-cut parts of the dovetail joint, and then put on the bottom plate. As you're putting on the bottom plate, there's a good chance that you'll have to much of the power cord pulled through the hole, so pull the slack back through as you bring the bottom plate closer. Once the bottom is on, apply 30 seconds of pressure to all four corners to get it good and set, and then you're done!
<p>Hi. great tutorial. I'm trying to make a led glowing Halloween box. I just don't know ho exactly how to go about it. Do you have any idea how to get started? thanks for your time.</p>
<p>the item its sold out! how am I supposed to get it.</p>
We're selling the lamps from www.8bitlit.com these days. In stock and shipping now!
<p>could you please share the source code?</p>
Rly, it's $10,000 lol wit?
I accidentaly spammed this im sssooooo sorry >.<
This is not the original circuit board you have pictured at the beginning of your instructions. The one I have and the one you originally pictured is copper. I need to know how to assemble the copper board. This one is completely different than the one posted above. I have been waiting nearly a month for an answer....
Hey there, did you manage to figure this out? I can try to scrounge up the old photos if you still need them. Feel free to email me at 8bitlit at gmail dot com if you need help!
When I was soldering in the resistors at the top and bottom of the board, I found it very difficult to not get solder in the hole next to them where the LED would go. I might suggest spacing these out just a little bit more to avoid this issue.
You say that they are oriented differently but the picture shows that they are oriented in the same direction. I followed the picture.
I really want to make this but I don't have the parts }:
So uhhhh....when are you going to restock so I can give this a go?! This looks awesome and fun to do.
We're out of stock right now, but we expect to have more assembled lamps available around Christmas. Send me a quick note at 8bitlit@gmail.com if you'd like to be notified when they're available.
you took the kit off of etsy how do i buy it.
We are currently out of stock, but we're hoping to have more assembled lamps in time for Christmas. If you'd like to be notified when they're available, please send me a quick email at 8bitlit@gmail.com. Thanks!
Hey, <br>I just finished putting the lamp together, it was definitely a fun experience! <br>But the lamp is only making the &quot;coin&quot; sound when I turn it on and off, as oppose as the lamp on the video which makes the &quot;1-up&quot; sound when its turned off. Any particular reason as to why?
It only plays the 1-UP sound on every 8th touch.
Yellow and white acrylic composition question mark could you please?
Is the PDF download broken or does it only not like me to be downloaded?
Worked for me when I tried it.
Hey! This is Ben, whom you met at the recent Maker Faire in San Mateo. I have finished putting together the electronics portion, yet nothing seems to happen when I test it with the wall plug. I've checked over it several times, and was wondering if there was a chance you could give me a little advice or something along those lines. Thanks again.
Where did you/ how did you make the acrylic pieces that have the question mark on it? Did you have it manufactured somewhere?
We screen print the question mark on them and then lasercut them into the dovetail-joint design so the box can be put together.
Sounds intense. Is there a video of a similar process I can view somewhere (such as youtube) so I can get a better understanding with a visual.
so i can make this from scratch if i gather my own parts yes ? and it will be cheaper ?
You certainly can put this together from parts you find yourself. It probably won't be too much cheaper, since we're buying our parts in bulk. Plus, you won't have a PCB, so you'll be stuck wiring it up on perfboard. <br><br>But if you do build one, let us know!
Got it today and the boy (9yr old) and I put it all together. One thing - it looks like you redid the board layout compared to the directions. All the pics and layout diagrams are incorrect in the instructions. On the upside, I got to explain to him how to read a schematic, follow the traces on a dual layer board, and teach him how to desolder a resistor when one isn't quite paying attention that the instructions are wrong :-) Also... VERY cool kit, and the silkscreened sides are done really well.<br>
IF the lamp gets warm enough the hot glue could let go. This could allow the power supply to touch the plate giving you a shock. <br>Heat shrink on the prongs/wires would prevent them from touching anything. Adding Silicon adhesive prevents anything from moving &amp; adds a second layer of safety. I sometimes work on &quot;one of&quot; props for movies so I speak from experience. Better safe than sorry !!
The only thing in the lamp that could get hot at all is the power supply, but I don't think that it could get hot enough to activate the hot glue, considering it has a plastic case to separate the outside from anything inside that could be generating heat. (The lamp itself is 100% leds, so it should run pretty cool.)<br><br>Even if the power supply touched the plate (which would be hard, since it's glued conductive-side down), the plate is completely shielded by 3mm of acrylic. You're never in direct contact with any part electrically connected to the lamp's electronics, and as long as 60KV doesn't suddenly show up inside the lamp, you're probably safe.<br><br>I agree that some heat shrink or other insulation would improve the build, but mostly just by guaranteeing there's no incidental shorting that would destroy the lamp.
Also as soon as you soldered the wires to the adaptor you modified it &amp; the UL cert. is void. Why not just use it as normal &amp; run the low voltage to the lamp ?? Safer &amp; simpler... Cheer !
I have to agree with Ironsmiter, you NEED to put heat shrink on the prongs of the adaptor. especially since you hot glued (melts when it gets warm...) on the back of your touch plate ! I would use silicone to attach the parts &amp; cover the prongs with it too. <br> IF you're selling it you might want to check into the National Electrical Code. I believe anything using ac power HAS to be UL certified in the US &amp; CSA certified in Canada. Could lead to a whole lot of trouble if someone got hurt or killed... <br>Otherwise, good instructable, good pix &amp; easy to follow. Cheers!
I don't understand how heat shrink on the adapter prongs would have any effect on the hot glue on the other side of the touch sensor. <br><br>You're right, it is probably worth looking into the electrical code. Right now, we're not directly using AC power, the adapter is. I would hope since it's unmodified that we retain some aspect of the UL certification the adapter does.
very VERY worried about the power supply.<br><br>thinking it would be MUCH better to simply de-case the power adapter, solder the power cord and 5V/gnd wires directly, then re-case.<br><br>Or, swing by the nearest place that sells cell phones, and grab a 5V mini/micro usb charger, delete the usb plug, and wire to the board.<br><br> <br>At the VERY LEAST, include 2 pieces of heat shrink tubing in the kit, a couple inches long, to cover those plug prongs and the solder joint?<br>AWESOME idea, but needs &quot;polish&quot; to be safe enough to sell the kit.<br>Already at $55 plus $12-30 shipping. what's an extra $0.50 compared to the huge amount of added safety?
I would be all for decasing the power adapter, but I've actually tried that, and it's kind of a pain. There's a screw holding it together that uses one of those non-removable slots, and while you can drill it out, it makes that step relatively clumsy. <br><br>Heat shrink tubing, or even just electrical tape, would be a nice to have addition.
nice job i wonder with a touch button and some leds i could make a simple cirruct and punch to turn on and off and painted arclyic for the side s
The bottom is already a touch button and it is lit with LEDs. We are switching to painted sides for future models, as we've figured out how to screen print the question mark design to save time and money.
screen printing will be NICE.<br>should drop production costs immensely. <br>either more profit, lower kit price(for higher volume), or both!<br><br>wish you the best of luck.
thanks i was wondering if i could make it with stuff in my shop
sure. <br><br>sounds like you want to go simple.<br>just turning on/off leds, without the sound effects.<br><br>As long as your power supply is matched to the switch, and leds...
It would be a good idea to cover the exposed AC connections with heat shrink tubing. Also don't use scissors to cut wire, this will dull and kink the razor sharp edge of the scissors very quickly.
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/josephgaston/" rel="nofollow">Nice Work!<br> <br> Get it patented and commercialize it&nbsp; for good..<br> <br> Let me know if you got some for sale.<br> <br> Take care!<br> <br> <br> http://www.flickr.com/photos/josephgaston/</a>
outstanding idea!!!!!!<br>and a great instructable :)<br>good job!
Love the idea, I hope I have time to build one!

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