Assemble a Universal PCB

 by Toodles
pcbscan.jpg
The Universal PCB (UPCB for short) project was started to allow a single game controller, especially fighting sticks, on as many different consoles as possible. Information about the project can be found on the following thread in the Shoryuken.com forums: Shoryuken.com

This instructable helps guide you through the process of assembling a UPCB. I will cover the options available to you at each point, and tell you how they will affect the construction of the UPCB and the installation in your arcade stick.

This instructable will not be covering the creation of UPCB cables, stick installation, PIC programming, or UPCB development. Please look to see if there are other instructables that will cover these topics for you. All of these topics will be discussed only in helping you decide which options to take.

The first few pages will ask a number of questions to determine what Options you want. After we've gone over all of the options, we'll dive right into the construction of the UPCB that everyone will need to do, and then specific pages for different options. Please do not let the number of choices scare you off; I am just trying to be thorough. If you dont know or understand the option, just go with the suggested.
 
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Step 1: Requirements and Button Terminology

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The absolute minimum requirements for using a UPCB are 6 play buttons, a 4 or 8 way stick, and two buttons for start and select. These are fairly universal and should not come as a suprise to anyone.

Each one of these inputs are labelled throughout the code. Start and Select are pretty self-explanatory to anyone who has used a game controller since the NES. Up, Down, Left, and Right refer to the 4 directions used by your stick. The six buttons are all named, but for some it may take a while to get used to the names. The six buttons are expected to be in two rows of three buttons each; classic Street Fighter style. Some may prefer a Japanese layout over the American, but it make's no difference for the UPCB. If you decide to deviate from a two row by three column layout, please remember it is unsupported.

The top row buttons, from left to right, are Jab, Strong, and Fierce.
The botton row buttons, from left to right, are Short, Forward, and Roundhouse.

To help those that are unfamiliar with the button naming scheme, please use your mouse on the image below to see their proper labels for each button.
matstermind says: Feb 16, 2011. 8:05 AM
do you have a schematic for this?
xEuS says: Oct 27, 2008. 1:28 AM
What does PCB stand for?
thewarrantyvoider in reply to xEuSMar 7, 2010. 5:08 PM
Printed circuit board
mettaurlover says: Dec 14, 2008. 3:02 PM
*brain implodes*
bobbyk881 says: May 27, 2007. 1:50 PM
why is it gona be removed?
Toodles (author) in reply to bobbyk881May 27, 2007. 11:09 PM
The 'Work in progress' notice will be removed, not the Instructable. :)
bobbyk881 in reply to ToodlesMay 28, 2007. 7:24 AM
ooooh ok cool
Myself says: May 27, 2007. 3:08 PM
Nice, very detailed! It saddens me to see the D-sub conectors misnamed, but otherwise this looks well put together and well documented. Your photography is excellent.

I hope future versions cover ICSP in more detail, or perhaps there could be a separate instructable about building and using the ICSP adapter.
Toodles (author) in reply to MyselfMay 27, 2007. 11:08 PM
I forgot to mention the ICSP connector. No adapter is needed. ICSP is a Microchip technology for serially programming their pics. If you have a PIC programmer or debugger that supports ICSP, such as any of the ones sold by Olimex.com, you just plug it straight in. As a minor plug, I have the Inchworm ICD2 clone from BlueRoom Electronics that I really like.

There is no need for me to make an instructable for an ICSP adapter because there isn't such a thing. As for using ICSP, I will consider adding it when I make a separate instructable for programming or upgrading the UPCB. Thanks for the feedback.
Myself in reply to ToodlesMay 28, 2007. 12:16 AM
My point was that the construction and operation of such a programmer or debugger could be the subject of its own instructable. :) A lot of console people might be tangentially familiar with JTAG and stuff too, and it'd be cool to put it all in context. Initially when you said "no adapter is needed", I thought of the AVR DAPA cable, which is literally just wires between the parallel port and the programming header. (Current-limiting resistors optional, to dissuade smoke in the event of voltage problems.) Programming the chip is a slightly important part of building a working device, too. :) Is there a source for preprogrammed chips?
Toodles (author) in reply to MyselfMay 28, 2007. 2:14 AM
I have offered to program the PICs for the UPCB for free for anyone that includes shipping to mail them back. I have a nice 40 pin ZIF attachment that makes it very easy to pop in, program, and remove. I agree that the construction and operation of a programmer or debugger could be the subject of its own instructable; in fact there are a number already on instructables by other authors. I am just doing my best to keep on topic. I have a tendency to ramble as it is. :)
Toodles (author) in reply to MyselfMay 27, 2007. 11:00 PM
I only became aware of the misnaming a couble of weeks ago (one of the hover tips on the console cable instructable referred to it as a DE-15), but the wiki article clears that up pretty well. I'll go through and rename the DB-15's to DA-15's. It beats 'Low Density 15 pin D shaped subminiature' anyday. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
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