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Step 21Optional Assembly: Power LED
This step is for those who want the 'Power LED Option'.
For those who want an LED to always be on as long as the UPCB gets powered, this option is for you. This is entirely optional, and aside from about 20mA more current draw, has no effect on how the UPCB works; it is entirely aesthetic, and completely optional.
If you are installing the UPCB in a stick, you will have to install the LED on the stick however you think is best. I will not be covering this. If you are using the UPCB as a NeoGeo converter, you can install the LED directly on the UPCB. For the pictures below, that is exactly what I did.
I learned two lessons when using this option with my first UPCB. First, the LED and resistor should be tested to find the best fit for the resistance. Second, that blue LEDs are BRIGHT. The 220 Ohm resistor is perfect for your average red or green LEDs. For the blue LED I tried, it was way too bright. I don't recall if that LED was a 'low power' version that lit bright with normal LED amperages. Maybe all blue LEDs are that bright. The point is, if you have the ability, test the LED and resistor with a +5v power source. 220 Ohm is a good starting point. Feel free to test with higher resistance resistors if you feel the brightness should be lower, and visa versa. If you dont have the ability to try it out with a +5v source, then go with the 220 Ohm recommended. Maybe go ahead and try a 330 Ohm if you are using blues though.
The value of the resistor is 220 Ohm, which for most LEDs, means about 20mA will flow through the LED. For most LEDs, this is plenty. I am personally using a blue 5mm LED in the pictures below. Blue LEDs require more power than most common colors, like red and green, so this value should be good for a single LED of any color. Trying to run a full compliment of multiple LEDs in a disco fashion is not recommended; it may require so much juice the PTC or console's fuse may pop. But feel free to experiment, as long as it isn't on any of my personal equipment.
The resistor marked 'OPT1' is the resistor for the power LED. Just as before, bend the legs, insert into the holes, lay the resistor down flat, bend the legs to secure in place, solder, and trim any extra leg wire. After having done at least 18 of them, I hope you have the hang of it by now.
LEDs do have a polarity. There will be one side of the LED that is flat. The leg on that side goes to ground. Make certain to find out which leg is supposed to go to ground, and solder it to the hole marked 'GND', closest to the hole marked 'PLED'. The other wire of the LED should be wired to the 'PLED' hole.
If you are installing the LED directly to the board, the spacing between the 'GND' and 'PLED' holes is perfect for a regular 5mm LED to go into. Find the leg on the flat side of the led, and put it into the 'GND' hole, with the other leg going through the 'PLED' hole.
For those who want an LED to always be on as long as the UPCB gets powered, this option is for you. This is entirely optional, and aside from about 20mA more current draw, has no effect on how the UPCB works; it is entirely aesthetic, and completely optional.
If you are installing the UPCB in a stick, you will have to install the LED on the stick however you think is best. I will not be covering this. If you are using the UPCB as a NeoGeo converter, you can install the LED directly on the UPCB. For the pictures below, that is exactly what I did.
I learned two lessons when using this option with my first UPCB. First, the LED and resistor should be tested to find the best fit for the resistance. Second, that blue LEDs are BRIGHT. The 220 Ohm resistor is perfect for your average red or green LEDs. For the blue LED I tried, it was way too bright. I don't recall if that LED was a 'low power' version that lit bright with normal LED amperages. Maybe all blue LEDs are that bright. The point is, if you have the ability, test the LED and resistor with a +5v power source. 220 Ohm is a good starting point. Feel free to test with higher resistance resistors if you feel the brightness should be lower, and visa versa. If you dont have the ability to try it out with a +5v source, then go with the 220 Ohm recommended. Maybe go ahead and try a 330 Ohm if you are using blues though.
The value of the resistor is 220 Ohm, which for most LEDs, means about 20mA will flow through the LED. For most LEDs, this is plenty. I am personally using a blue 5mm LED in the pictures below. Blue LEDs require more power than most common colors, like red and green, so this value should be good for a single LED of any color. Trying to run a full compliment of multiple LEDs in a disco fashion is not recommended; it may require so much juice the PTC or console's fuse may pop. But feel free to experiment, as long as it isn't on any of my personal equipment.
The resistor marked 'OPT1' is the resistor for the power LED. Just as before, bend the legs, insert into the holes, lay the resistor down flat, bend the legs to secure in place, solder, and trim any extra leg wire. After having done at least 18 of them, I hope you have the hang of it by now.
LEDs do have a polarity. There will be one side of the LED that is flat. The leg on that side goes to ground. Make certain to find out which leg is supposed to go to ground, and solder it to the hole marked 'GND', closest to the hole marked 'PLED'. The other wire of the LED should be wired to the 'PLED' hole.
If you are installing the LED directly to the board, the spacing between the 'GND' and 'PLED' holes is perfect for a regular 5mm LED to go into. Find the leg on the flat side of the led, and put it into the 'GND' hole, with the other leg going through the 'PLED' hole.
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