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Step 3Connection Options
The previous page dealt with 'Things you want to have'. This page deals with 'How you want to hook things up'.
Unlike the previous page, I will be providing suggestions about what I feel the best choices are.
The first and easiest is whether or not you want to use the UPCB inside of a controller, or whether you want to use it outside of a case like a NeoGeo to Whatever converter. If you want to go with the 'NeoGeo Converter Option', you will be able to plug in a NeoGeo AES controller, such as 'old style' stick, 'new style' stick, or NeoCD gamepad, directly into the UPCB, and use it on any supported console. This is extremely rare, and chances are you do not want this option. If you do, you don't need to worry about anything else on this page.
The next decision is about your stick. You can use either a six pin connector to attach your stick, or you can use a 8 pin ribbon connector. The 6 pin connector has one line for each direction, plus power and ground. The 8 pin ribbon connector has 4 pair of wires, each pair being one direction and ground. If the stick you want to use has 4 separate, unconnected microswitches, like the Happ Competition, Happ Super, or Sanwa JLW, the 'Ten Pin Stick Connector Option' will require the least amount of work to use. (They do not make 8 pin IDC connectors, so we'll use a 10 pin one, and only use 8 of the pins.) If the stick you want to use has a connection for each direction and one for ground, such as the Sanwa JLF, Sanwa Flash, or Happ Perfect 360, go with the 'Six Pin Stick Connector Option'. Most people will want the 'Six Pin Stick Connector Option'.
Next is the 'ICSP Option'. ICSP stands for 'In Circuit Serial Programming'. It is a way to connect the PIC to a programmer or debugger while it is in the actual circuit. This option is recommended. If your PIC suffers from a bad flash when trying to upgrade it via USB, you would have to remove the chip entirely and put it in a programmer for reprogramming. On a 40 pin PIC, this is a pain. The part needed is small and cheap. Even if you do not expect to ever have to reprogram the PIC from scratch, it won't hurt to put it in. But, as long as someone else does the original programming of the PIC bootloader for you, and you never get a bad flash, this is not required.
Last is the 'Piggyback Option'. For consoles the UPCB doesn't support yet, the UPCB allows you to connect up to two PCB's from hacked game controllers and use them along with the UPCB. If you are sure you will never need this option, then ignore it. If you are unsure if you might want to do this in the future, it is recommended you go ahead and say yes to this option. The parts are under $2, and you will be very glad you put them in if you do decide to use them.
Unlike the previous page, I will be providing suggestions about what I feel the best choices are.
The first and easiest is whether or not you want to use the UPCB inside of a controller, or whether you want to use it outside of a case like a NeoGeo to Whatever converter. If you want to go with the 'NeoGeo Converter Option', you will be able to plug in a NeoGeo AES controller, such as 'old style' stick, 'new style' stick, or NeoCD gamepad, directly into the UPCB, and use it on any supported console. This is extremely rare, and chances are you do not want this option. If you do, you don't need to worry about anything else on this page.
The next decision is about your stick. You can use either a six pin connector to attach your stick, or you can use a 8 pin ribbon connector. The 6 pin connector has one line for each direction, plus power and ground. The 8 pin ribbon connector has 4 pair of wires, each pair being one direction and ground. If the stick you want to use has 4 separate, unconnected microswitches, like the Happ Competition, Happ Super, or Sanwa JLW, the 'Ten Pin Stick Connector Option' will require the least amount of work to use. (They do not make 8 pin IDC connectors, so we'll use a 10 pin one, and only use 8 of the pins.) If the stick you want to use has a connection for each direction and one for ground, such as the Sanwa JLF, Sanwa Flash, or Happ Perfect 360, go with the 'Six Pin Stick Connector Option'. Most people will want the 'Six Pin Stick Connector Option'.
Next is the 'ICSP Option'. ICSP stands for 'In Circuit Serial Programming'. It is a way to connect the PIC to a programmer or debugger while it is in the actual circuit. This option is recommended. If your PIC suffers from a bad flash when trying to upgrade it via USB, you would have to remove the chip entirely and put it in a programmer for reprogramming. On a 40 pin PIC, this is a pain. The part needed is small and cheap. Even if you do not expect to ever have to reprogram the PIC from scratch, it won't hurt to put it in. But, as long as someone else does the original programming of the PIC bootloader for you, and you never get a bad flash, this is not required.
Last is the 'Piggyback Option'. For consoles the UPCB doesn't support yet, the UPCB allows you to connect up to two PCB's from hacked game controllers and use them along with the UPCB. If you are sure you will never need this option, then ignore it. If you are unsure if you might want to do this in the future, it is recommended you go ahead and say yes to this option. The parts are under $2, and you will be very glad you put them in if you do decide to use them.
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