The RBBB from Modern Device Company is a wonderful little Arduino clone. If you have a Arduino project requiring a small footprint or an inexpensive dedicated board, this is a great solution.
I discovered the RBBB while looking for a cheaper alternative to the official Arduino board I used in developing my Northern Lights Indicator. On sale, buying 5 kits, these came out to about $9 each. That is a huge savings over the $35 Arduino Diecimila.
Step 1: The Kit
2 10k resistors (Brown, Black, Orange)
2 .1ufd ceramic capacitors
2 47 ufd electrolytic capacitors
1 voltage regulator
1 3mm LED
1 Atmega168 preprogrammed with bootloader
1 16 MHZ ceramic resonator
male header pins
6 right-angle male-header pins
1 momentary switch
1 28 pin IC socket
Step 3: First capacitors
Step 4: The LED
Step 5: The switch and power regulator
The switch is rectangular and will snap in place with little effort. If it doesn't seem to fit, turn it 90 degrees and try again.
The power regulator is mounted with its flat side towards the edge of the board. See later steps for other power options.
Step 6: The electrolytic capacitors
Step 7: The IC socket
One end of the socket has a notch. Notice the image of the socket on the board also has a notch. Match the orientation and solder into place.
Step 8: Start on the header pins
Start by snipping 4 pins off the end of one of the sets of headers. Solder the remainder of the section in the holes marked A5 -D9. This is the same side of the board as the LED.
Next, take the 4 pins you trimmed off and solder them in the D5-D8 holes.
Now trim the remaining set of headers in half. Take one of the halves and solder it into the RST - +5 holes.
Step 10: The diode
Step 12: The programming headers
Step 13: Washing the board.
Step 14: Mount the IC
Step 15: That's it! Or is it?
Remember I mentioned some options for the power supply? If you wish to have an even smaller board you may remove the power socket from the board. You may wish to directly wire a 9v snap connector to the board or run wires to a remote power supply.
You can also cut the board down even smaller by removing the section used for power regulation. This can then be mounted some other place or eliminated altogether if your project can provide regulated 5v power.
Step 16: Update!
Note I have placed vertical male programming headers to further reduce the board length. The middle board has no I/O headers as I will be soldering leads directly to the board. The top board has female headers. This allows wires or male headers to be plugged in easily.