In this Instructable, I will show you how to control things powered by 110V AC with an audio signal. This project was inspired by a similar one done by Alan Parekh on a different site, originally created by rybitski at http://hackedgadgets.com/2006/11/29/audio-controlled-christmas-lights/, but I have made some revisions (not all on purpose) and the instructions here will be much more inclusive.
Please be careful. Unplug first when working on anything electrical. 110V AC can kill you!
Please be careful. Unplug first when working on anything electrical. 110V AC can kill you!
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Acquire parts
In my design, I decided to retain stereo capability. In order to do this, I had to double the required parts. Here is a list of parts required:
--Pair of amplified computer speakers. A medium-to-large case would make things easier. Also, a standard, integrated power cord (non-wall-wart transformer) can free up a lot of space inside. I used a used set of Gateway Edison 2.0 speakers I bought from a used computer store for $5.
--An outlet, which I bought at a local hardware store for $0.59. You can decide if a cover is required for your application.
--2 Rectifiers. I bought mine from RadioShack. I decided to buy the 4A, 400V-capable units, to be on the safe side. They cost about $2.50/apiece.
--2 Solid State Relays. I followed Alan Parekh's example and used 2 Crydom D2W203F relays. I bought these from Mouser for $8.80/apiece. These are by no means the only units that can be used, but they work great.
--2 Potentiometers, to match the original that will be replaced. Mine was a 10k. These cost me $3/apiece at RadioShack.
--2 knobs to fit on the potentiometers. These cost me $3/pair at RadioShack.
--If your speakers have a wall-wart transformer, you will need a power cord to get the 110V AC inside the speaker cases. You can buy these from RadioShack, hardware stores, or simply cut one off of an old appliance you are no longer using. Again, please use caution and unplug anything before working on it.
Tools Required:
-Soldering Iron
-Solder
-Wire Strippers
-Screwdrivers
-Electrical Tape
-Small-gauge wire (I used 22ga stranded)
-AC-rated wire (or just cut a bit off your power cord, like I did)
-Some others may be required. I also used scissors, a cordless drill, side- and end-cutting pliers.
--Pair of amplified computer speakers. A medium-to-large case would make things easier. Also, a standard, integrated power cord (non-wall-wart transformer) can free up a lot of space inside. I used a used set of Gateway Edison 2.0 speakers I bought from a used computer store for $5.
--An outlet, which I bought at a local hardware store for $0.59. You can decide if a cover is required for your application.
--2 Rectifiers. I bought mine from RadioShack. I decided to buy the 4A, 400V-capable units, to be on the safe side. They cost about $2.50/apiece.
--2 Solid State Relays. I followed Alan Parekh's example and used 2 Crydom D2W203F relays. I bought these from Mouser for $8.80/apiece. These are by no means the only units that can be used, but they work great.
--2 Potentiometers, to match the original that will be replaced. Mine was a 10k. These cost me $3/apiece at RadioShack.
--2 knobs to fit on the potentiometers. These cost me $3/pair at RadioShack.
--If your speakers have a wall-wart transformer, you will need a power cord to get the 110V AC inside the speaker cases. You can buy these from RadioShack, hardware stores, or simply cut one off of an old appliance you are no longer using. Again, please use caution and unplug anything before working on it.
Tools Required:
-Soldering Iron
-Solder
-Wire Strippers
-Screwdrivers
-Electrical Tape
-Small-gauge wire (I used 22ga stranded)
-AC-rated wire (or just cut a bit off your power cord, like I did)
-Some others may be required. I also used scissors, a cordless drill, side- and end-cutting pliers.
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
Do you know how many watts each outlet can handle?