AuraCube 8x8x8 RGB Led Cube DIY Kit
***Do not download this instruction, just click next step is ok.***
Step 1: Specific
Control with remote
Draw Animation file from software and save to Micro SD card
Play with audio input spectrum display
Night Light mode
Acrylic case optional included
Remote battery(CR2025) removed of Air Mail issue
Step 2: Component
600 Common anode RGB leds
1 big PCB board
1 small controller board
1 remote (cr2025 battery may not included due to air mail safety)
8 copper leg
330 copper wire
1 ST link V2 USB programmer
1 5V5A power supply
1 US power cable for power supply
1 Acrylic Case not assembled
1 FFC cable (10 pin 1mm 10CM)
4 3D printed soldering holder
1 3D printed stand for small controller board
Step 3: Soldering the Led Panel / Vertical Layer
We need to bend and solder the led first, than test the led when it layer up.
Make sure your iron does not heat over 350 Celsius or 662 Fahrenheit
It will help more understand if you take a look on the 3D model plan of AuraCube 888 on Step 4
The R G B pin position on the cube will not change for plan a b and c, but should different on the solder holder. The spacing is 25mm up down left right back forward.
1.According to the marking of "R G B x" on the PCB, bend the 3 led leg in correct direction, except the anode leg.
2.Insert the led to the holder and solder with 3 copper wire, this will become a "led strip"
3.Align the led strip with another led holder, it should looks like a 8x8 led panel with all pins face in correct direction according to the PCB marking. The picture above show the rgb pin position is for Auracube888a.dwg model, if you plan for Auracube888b or c model it sholud be different.
4.Solder the anode leg of every led with a copper wire in row/horizontal direction, there will have 8 led panel finally
Step 4: More 3D Model and Set Up of the Anode Wire
All RGB pin just connect to the PCB vertically in column, do not connect with any anode pin connection.
But the Anode pin of leds can have 2 ways to connect them, and all the picture and explanation statement on this instructions are base on the Auracube888a.dwg plan model
***When mounting 1st led panel to main board the common anode leads start from high to low layer, through hole 1 to 8. Or you can see the anode through hole close to the DC power jack is the top layer.
Auracube888a.dwg (Not recommended) Has less wire and looks same to the Auracube888c.dwg, but anode wire are linked in different direction, and many noise when more led light up.
http://a360.co/2hYHGou(view it online)
Auracube888b.dwg(Recommended) Has more wire but nearly no noise, easy to test the led panel one by one.
http://a360.co/2gUJx1C (view it online)
(The free software to open 123dx document is 123D Design by Autodesk)
All the picture and explanation statement on this instructions are base on the Auracube888a.dwg setup plan model, so when you decide to solder led strip to form led panel for plan b and c, the direction of rgb pins, or the direction to connect the anode pins is changed.
The R G B pin position on the cube will not change for plan a b and c, but should way different when set up on the solder holder. The spacing is 25mm up down left right back forward.
Step 5: Testing the Vertical Led Layer/panel
-It's very important to do this test before soldering onto the PCB-
There are many multimeter can "Test for a Short Circuit", Turn the multimeter settings knob to "continuity." The continuity setting is indicated by a small microphone symbol. It's has about 30ma current allow to light up one led, for led short circuited (inside the led bulb) it will not light up and give the "bee" sound.
If you want to test the leds after soldering on the PCB, the R G B wire on the bottom that soldered onto PCB should be de-solder first, and the multimeter will connect correctly to test the leds.
Step 6: Soldering Led Panel / Vertical Layer Onto the PCB
It will help understanding if you take a look on the 3D models of AuraCube 888 on Step 4. RGB pin are connected to PCB vertically, but anode pin connected in column and a wire connect each column to the PCB.
As the anode path on the PCB are shorted in 8 path, connect to four 4953 ICs , so they also can connect each together on top the cube wire, and skip some of the anode hole on the PCB.
After testing the led panel with multimeter, now you can insert the led panel onto the PCB through hole, note the R G B pin direction. We can send different rgb firmware if you make mistake.
Make sure all led's anode pin on horizontal each layer are connected to the anode wire, so they have power input from the IC 4953. 4pcs of the 4953 give power to 8 anode path, see picture above.
(Only if you have built the old version of rgb led cube before, the 8 anode are wire at the back, and now we solder 8 anode on the side, this can be seen clearly on the 3D model)
Step 7: Power on and the Remote Controller
Connect the small controller board with a FFC cable, you may slightly bend the cable connector, it will works fine with the acrylic case on.
Use a 5V5A DC power in put, it cube will start playing animation in the firmware
Remote Controller Button
0 ------------ Animation from the micro SD card
1 ------------ Music spectrum mode
2 ------------ Animation from the firmware
3 ------------ Night Light Mode
4-9 --------- adjust color of the Night Light Mode
C------------ Snake game
This 3 button only work for firmware animation
<< Last animation
>> Next animation
Step 8: Software - AuraCube888.exe
No driver needed for the animation software, tested in Win10 Win7, work only on windows
Download on the sharing folder https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w2uIW46VgQbnNU...
Some customer shared their file on Facebook page, you may do so, we will upload them to the sharing folder soon.
-to open the software, you need to load the keycode generator, copy the key code and send to the seller, and they will send you the keyConfig(youname + PC ID Code).key file, rename it to keyConfig.key and save in the software folder, so the software will not locked-
-left click to fill color, right click to erase color, left click + Ctrl pick/copy color
-the software window fit 1080P desktop resolution, too low will not able to scroll or resize the software
-The Win10 will alert you not to use this software, but you can select ignore and continue using in Win10.
-The keyConfig.key is the registration key for one PC only, can use in multi windows except Mac OS.
-You can get your registration key with the Keycode generator, then send it to the seller and wait for the key.
-File auto save on software folder path, you need copy to micro SD card than.
-Animation file in micro SD card Must save in a folder named "rgbcube888"
-The micro SD card must be FAT format, not FAT32
-Can use any characters and some symbols for file name, but no Chinese characters.
Step 9: Transform Old Cube Animation Document
This step is only for customer has some file from the old rgb led cube in early 2016.
There is a hidden feature in the software, press ALT+T It will open and let you select all files in 5 frame and old cube format, then auto converted it to 100 frame new cube format, and save in a "converted" folder
Step 10: Firmware Upload / Update
This will need the
ST-Link USB programmer
DC power input or mini USB cable for power input only
And all the files firmwares download here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w2uIW46VgQbnNUNV9EeFc5TDg
1.Download the software STM32 ST-LINK (it has driver for the USB programmer)
2.The driver will installed after the installing the software
3.Power on the led cube (or connect the small controller board to 5V min usb port for power), and connect each CLK, DIO and GND pin on the PCB together with the usb programmer, and plug in to the PC. You can't use the 3.3V and 12V pin on the small controller board for power.
4. Press File>Open>firmware.hex, Target>Connect, Target>Program and Verify, it should be done in second. 5. Press Disconnect to remove the small controller board
Step 11: The Acrylic Case and Holder Base for the Small Controller Board
You need to insert the small controller board into the 3D printed holder, and also insert the USB programmer (ST LINK V2), you won't able to remove them when the 3D printed holder is stick on the acrylic case's base. We use double adhesive tape, carefully stick at the back, just a small pieces is enough, more may break the board when removing.
The FFC cable connector (blue color) should face to top on two board. The blue connector head should face to top, and slide out the socket first, not pull up.
For the acrylic case you can follow this video for reference, the acrylic cement will melt the acrylic be careful not to add too much. Using Electrical Tape to hold the edge together, just 2 piece one Inch tape for each side, the acrylic cement may melt along the tape and acrylic, so no need to paste the full length.
Step 12: Schematic and Firmware Code
Here is the folder of the Schematic and firmware code
Step 13: Customer's Work
Step 14: Q&A
The part of the program I cannot read is as follows Insert File places a menu on the left with the name of the file and a number of pages called Totem When I right mouse click on one of the Pages (Totem) a menu appears I believe the menu works as follows Move Up Move Down Copy Delete
1) Can you tell me what the last menu item does? (rename)
2) Also when I click convert there is
a) A check box (select all)
b) A Button on the bottom left (choose file)
c) A button on the bottom right (start convert)
4) Also included is a Ribbon cable with 20 wires and 40 pins. Please can you advise where these should be connected and their use. (Is it for connecting two cubes together)