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AuraCube 8x8x8 RGB Led Cube DIY Kit

Available at 8x8x8item.com and rgbledcube.com, ebay.com ebay.co.uk ebau.au

Facebook Page

https://www.facebook.com/AuraCube/

***Do not download this instruction, just click next step is ok.***

Step 1: Specific

Function:

Control with remote

Draw Animation file from software and save to Micro SD card

Play with audio input spectrum display

Night Light mode

Diemension: ~20*20*25mm

Weight: ~2.5KG

Acrylic case optional included

Remote battery(CR2025) removed of Air Mail issue

Step 2: Component

600 Common anode RGB leds

1 big PCB board

1 small controller board

1 remote (cr2025 battery may not included due to air mail safety)

8 copper leg

330 copper wire

1 ST link V2 USB programmer

1 5V5A power supply

1 US power cable for power supply

1 Acrylic Case not assembled

1 FFC cable (10 pin 1mm 10CM)

4 3D printed soldering holder

1 3D printed stand for small controller board

Step 3: Soldering the Led Panel / Vertical Layer

We need to bend and solder the led first, than test the led when it layer up.

Make sure your iron does not heat over 350 Celsius or 662 Fahrenheit


It will help more understand if you take a look on the 3D model plan of AuraCube 888 on Step 4

The R G B pin position on the cube will not change for plan a b and c, but should different on the solder holder. The spacing is 25mm up down left right back forward.


1.According to the marking of "R G B x" on the PCB, bend the 3 led leg in correct direction, except the anode leg.

2.Insert the led to the holder and solder with 3 copper wire, this will become a "led strip"

3.Align the led strip with another led holder, it should looks like a 8x8 led panel with all pins face in correct direction according to the PCB marking. The picture above show the rgb pin position is for Auracube888a.dwg model, if you plan for Auracube888b or c model it sholud be different.

4.Solder the anode leg of every led with a copper wire in row/horizontal direction, there will have 8 led panel finally

Step 4: More 3D Model and Set Up of the Anode Wire

All RGB pin just connect to the PCB vertically in column, do not connect with any anode pin connection.

But the Anode pin of leds can have 2 ways to connect them, and all the picture and explanation statement on this instructions are base on the Auracube888a.dwg plan model

***When mounting 1st led panel to main board the common anode leads start from high to low layer, through hole 1 to 8. Or you can see the anode through hole close to the DC power jack is the top layer.

Auracube888a.dwg (Not recommended) Has less wire and looks same to the Auracube888c.dwg, but anode wire are linked in different direction, and many noise when more led light up.

http://a360.co/2hYHGou(view it online)

Auracube888b.dwg(Recommended) Has more wire but nearly no noise, easy to test the led panel one by one.

http://a360.co/2gUJx1C (view it online)

(The free software to open 123dx document is 123D Design by Autodesk)

All the picture and explanation statement on this instructions are base on the Auracube888a.dwg setup plan model, so when you decide to solder led strip to form led panel for plan b and c, the direction of rgb pins, or the direction to connect the anode pins is changed.

The R G B pin position on the cube will not change for plan a b and c, but should way different when set up on the solder holder. The spacing is 25mm up down left right back forward.

Step 5: Testing the Vertical Led Layer/panel

-It's very important to do this test before soldering onto the PCB-

There are many multimeter can "Test for a Short Circuit", Turn the multimeter settings knob to "continuity." The continuity setting is indicated by a small microphone symbol. It's has about 30ma current allow to light up one led, for led short circuited (inside the led bulb) it will not light up and give the "bee" sound.

If you want to test the leds after soldering on the PCB, the R G B wire on the bottom that soldered onto PCB should be de-solder first, and the multimeter will connect correctly to test the leds.

Step 6: Soldering Led Panel / Vertical Layer Onto the PCB

It will help understanding if you take a look on the 3D models of AuraCube 888 on Step 4. RGB pin are connected to PCB vertically, but anode pin connected in column and a wire connect each column to the PCB.

As the anode path on the PCB are shorted in 8 path, connect to four 4953 ICs , so they also can connect each together on top the cube wire, and skip some of the anode hole on the PCB.

After testing the led panel with multimeter, now you can insert the led panel onto the PCB through hole, note the R G B pin direction. We can send different rgb firmware if you make mistake.

Make sure all led's anode pin on horizontal each layer are connected to the anode wire, so they have power input from the IC 4953. 4pcs of the 4953 give power to 8 anode path, see picture above.

(Only if you have built the old version of rgb led cube before, the 8 anode are wire at the back, and now we solder 8 anode on the side, this can be seen clearly on the 3D model)

Step 7: Power on and the Remote Controller

Connect the small controller board with a FFC cable, you may slightly bend the cable connector, it will works fine with the acrylic case on.

Use a 5V5A DC power in put, it cube will start playing animation in the firmware

Remote Controller Button

0 ------------ Animation from the micro SD card

1 ------------ Music spectrum mode

2 ------------ Animation from the firmware

3 ------------ Night Light Mode

4-9 --------- adjust color of the Night Light Mode

C------------ Snake game

>> Faster

<< Slower

-------------------------

This 3 button only work for firmware animation

<< Last animation

>> Next animation

> Play/Stop

Step 8: Software - AuraCube888.exe

No driver needed for the animation software, tested in Win10 Win7, work only on windows

Download on the sharing folder https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w2uIW46VgQbnNU...

Some customer shared their file on Facebook page, you may do so, we will upload them to the sharing folder soon.

-to open the software, you need to load the keycode generator, copy the key code and send to the seller, and they will send you the keyConfig(youname + PC ID Code).key file, rename it to keyConfig.key and save in the software folder, so the software will not locked-

-left click to fill color, right click to erase color, left click + Ctrl pick/copy color

-the software window fit 1080P desktop resolution, too low will not able to scroll or resize the software

-The Win10 will alert you not to use this software, but you can select ignore and continue using in Win10.

-The keyConfig.key is the registration key for one PC only, can use in multi windows except Mac OS.

-You can get your registration key with the Keycode generator, then send it to the seller and wait for the key.

-File auto save on software folder path, you need copy to micro SD card than.

-Animation file in micro SD card Must save in a folder named "rgbcube888"

-The micro SD card must be FAT format, not FAT32

-Can use any characters and some symbols for file name, but no Chinese characters.

Step 9: Transform Old Cube Animation Document

This step is only for customer has some file from the old rgb led cube in early 2016.

There is a hidden feature in the software, press ALT+T It will open and let you select all files in 5 frame and old cube format, then auto converted it to 100 frame new cube format, and save in a "converted" folder

Step 10: Firmware Upload / Update

This will need the

ST-Link USB programmer

Ribbon cable

DC power input or mini USB cable for power input only

And all the files firmwares download here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w2uIW46VgQbnNUNV9EeFc5TDg

1.Download the software STM32 ST-LINK (it has driver for the USB programmer)

http://www.st.com/en/embedded-software/stsw-link004.html

2.The driver will installed after the installing the software

3.Power on the led cube (or connect the small controller board to 5V min usb port for power), and connect each CLK, DIO and GND pin on the PCB together with the usb programmer, and plug in to the PC. You can't use the 3.3V and 12V pin on the small controller board for power.

4. Press File>Open>firmware.hex, Target>Connect, Target>Program and Verify, it should be done in second. 5. Press Disconnect to remove the small controller board

Step 11: The Acrylic Case and Holder Base for the Small Controller Board

You need to insert the small controller board into the 3D printed holder, and also insert the USB programmer (ST LINK V2), you won't able to remove them when the 3D printed holder is stick on the acrylic case's base. We use double adhesive tape, carefully stick at the back, just a small pieces is enough, more may break the board when removing.

The FFC cable connector (blue color) should face to top on two board. The blue connector head should face to top, and slide out the socket first, not pull up.

For the acrylic case you can follow this video for reference, the acrylic cement will melt the acrylic be careful not to add too much. Using Electrical Tape to hold the edge together, just 2 piece one Inch tape for each side, the acrylic cement may melt along the tape and acrylic, so no need to paste the full length.

Step 12: Schematic and Firmware Code

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B3w2uIW46VgQcU5t...

Here is the folder of the Schematic and firmware code

Step 13: Customer's Work

Step 14: Q&A

The part of the program I cannot read is as follows Insert File places a menu on the left with the name of the file and a number of pages called Totem When I right mouse click on one of the Pages (Totem) a menu appears I believe the menu works as follows Move Up Move Down Copy Delete

1) Can you tell me what the last menu item does? (rename)

2) Also when I click convert there is

a) A check box (select all)

b) A Button on the bottom left (choose file)

c) A button on the bottom right (start convert)

4) Also included is a Ribbon cable with 20 wires and 40 pins. Please can you advise where these should be connected and their use. (Is it for connecting two cubes together)

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<p>Question for WongH,</p><p>I don't think the source code as linked above is the source code for the latest .HEX file you link to.</p><p>I have re-compiled the source code using Keil uVision V5 and it doesn't work as it stands.</p><p>A bit of debugging reveals the execution never exits from the initialisation code of CheckCPU_ID in main.c.</p><p>The line</p><p>while (0XB83812EF != MiWen) </p><p>is always true, thus always loops in this while statement initialising and setting up the USB port.</p><p>If the above line is commented out it then hangs in the loop</p><p>while (1)</p><p>{</p><p>usb_printf|(&quot;0X%8X\r\n&quot;,MiWen)...</p><p>Commenting out this line and CheckCPU_ID then exits and the animation from firmware works.</p><p>However the remote control DOES not work. I have placed break points in the KeyHandle code in IR_NEC.c and it never gets hit, implying the IR is not set up correctly.</p><p>Is there further source code available to match the .HEX file dated 22/10/2016 ?</p>
<p>Hi Ian - Thanks for the info above - Well Done ! I just flashed my new aura cube with the given firmware and nothing as well. Your post above saved me heaps of time ! I found by just commenting out the checkCPU_ID routine entirely, the cube functions along with the remote. Did you end up getting it to work ?</p>
<p>How to re-compile, upload and debug the source code.</p><p>I managed to re-compile the source code using Kiel uVision V5.15. Unfortunately you will need to buy the professional version that doesn't have the 32kbytes final code limit of the free/evaluation version. I did manage to get the free version to compile in under 32kbytes by removing the USB code, uSD code, ADC code and snake code, though couldn't test as hadn't received my cube by then.</p><p>You install Kiel uVision 5.15 and open the .uvoptx file in Project -&gt; Open Project menu. Original file is from Keil V4 but will need to be converted to V5 project.</p><p>Compile the code by pressing F7.</p><p>To flash the code into the device select Flash -&gt; Settings -&gt; Debug and select use ST-Link Debugger as shown in first picture.</p><p>Then under Settings button -&gt; Flash Download use the Add button to add STM32F10x med-density Flash as shown in 2nd picture. Press OK to return to main window.</p><p>With the USB ST-Link connected to Flash -&gt; Download (or F8) to load the flash and run the code.</p><p>You can also select Debug -&gt; Start/Stop Debug Session (CTRL-F5) to load the flash and start the code running but stop at first instruction to allow debug, tracing, stepping etc etc. It is a very comprehensive debugger linked to the source code.</p>
<p>Hi, thanks for the info reported, the source code was shared directly from the developer, I have no idea how to use it, let me know what are you going to do with the source code.</p><p>By the way, we found that Arduino can now support the stm32f103 MCU in this led cube, it means we can put some arduino code into the board and control the leds, we just finished testing with some sensor function, not yet start to control the led cube.</p>
<p>Hi,</p><p>I was just trying to create my own animations, in C code. Some of mine are good, in fact brilliant, but some are not good, in fact awful. But then that is the fun of the Auracube. You don't know what is good and what is bad until you try it.</p><p>Could you please try and get the latest source code from the developer, please. That way I could add my code to existing LED patterns in your latest release of firmware.</p><p>regards</p>
<p>Hello,</p><p> I would like to print more of the LED assembly holder. Is the file for this available?</p><p>Thanks</p>
<p>it's available on thingiverse, as I wanted it also and stumbled across it on thingiverse.</p><p>http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1605096/#files</p>
Thank You, I appreciate it.<br><br>Mike
<p>do you have any information about wiring two cubes together? I see there is a firmware for two cubes listed in the drive folder. How does it work?</p>
<p>Hi! I would like to ask for the controls of the snake game. I am only able to control in two dimensions (+/-/&gt;&gt;/&lt;&lt;) how do I enter in the third dimensions? Thanks!</p>
<p>the 5 and 8 buttons control z up and down</p>
<p>Below are some pictures I took whilst assembling my cube.</p><p>1. Bend the LED leads as in the picture, the flat on the LED body to your right.</p><p>2. Test the RED LED using a multimeter on Ohms setting. </p><p>3. Test the GREEN LED. So far I have had two failed LEDs.</p><p>4. Test the BLUE LED.</p><p>5. Trim the anode lead to about 5mm.</p><p>6. Insert a wire for blue connection into holder and insert LED's. Twist the LED's to ensure the wire is held firmly in place.</p><p>7. Pull the wire out slightly so that it only touches the &quot;top&quot; LED's legs.</p><p>8. Solder blue connections, trim excess leads and carefully insert a green connection wire. Bend the LED leads slightly so it holds the wire in place.</p><p>9. Trim the excess leads and add red connecting wire. Again bend LED leads to hold wire in place. Trim excess leads.</p><p>10. Test once more, as easy to replace a failed LED at this stage.</p><p>11. Insert the columns of 8 LED's into the holders. Ensure the orientation is correct for when inserted into the PCB, so that the R, G &amp; B wires connect up correctly to labelling on PCB.</p><p>12. Solder the anode wire(s). Only one shown here.</p>
<p>Hi Completed and now fully functional.</p><p>This is a serious piece of kit that requires a significant time to build. I love the building part so the fact that it has taken me about 30 hours to build makes fantastic value for 30 hours of fun.</p><p>The instructions are being upgraded but still require some work by being totally specific and perhaps providing some techniques.</p><p>Here is how did it, I built one panel (8x8) at a time in a production line.<br>1) Bend 64 LEDs pins to the correct configuration. With the head of the LED facing down and the four pins coming up from the LED base (ie upside down LED) and the 4 pins facing me and the longest pin being the 3rd pin (counting left to right) <br> a) Hold the top of pin 4 and bend it to the left until flat (Horizontal).<br> b) Hold the top of pin 1 and bend it to the right until flat (Horizontal).<br> c) Hold the top of pin 2 and bend it away from you until flat (Horizontal).</p><p>This will leave the anode pointing upwards. Place on a flat surface with the LED head facing left and the anode running from the head to your right (Repeat 64 times)</p><p>2) Cut the anode pin to 1/3 its length on all 64 LEDs<br>3) Fit 16 of the LEDs into the two holders. Place the holder infront of you running left to right and slide each LED head first into the holder working left to right (Each individual LED holder has three notches in it. I orientated the holder so that the notch closest to the base faced away from me)<br>4) Fit the three long wire into each of the holders bending the LED pins over the wire to keep the wires in place.<br>5) Solder all joins on both LED holders<br>6) Use a pair of pliers to hold the 3 legs of the long wires and pull the Column of LEDs out of the holder (Be careful)<br>7) Repeat (3) to (6) three more times until you have 8 columns<br>8) Cut of all the excess LED pins from each of the columns<br>9) Lie the 8 columns in a row with the legs nearest to you and fit the spacer bar onto the top row of LEDs.<br>10) Getting the second spacer bar on can be troublesome. I managed it by standing the columns upright and sliding on the spacer bar onto the bottom row of LEDs.<br>11) Lay flat, place a wire across the top row of LEDs anodes. Solder the far left anode then the next anode touching the cross wire. You may need an additional tool to hold the cross wire onto the anodes while soldering<br>12) Cut off excess wires.<br>13) I then applied 1.9 volts to test the red columns and 2.8 volts to test the Green and Blue columns<br>14) I then placed the panel onto the PCB with it facing me and vertical. I then lifted the left hand side up keeping the right hand pins on the PCB then used tweezers to feed the pins into the holes working from right to left slowly lowering the left-hand side as I inserted the pins.<br>15) Level off the panel ensuring it is vertical and horizontal in both the x and y axis.<br>16) solder two pins on the left end of the panel. Check everything is still true on the right hand end then solder the right hand side pins. Double check everything is still true and solder the rest of the pins. <br>17) at this point the vertical anode ( Panel one to anode row one, Panel two to anode panel row two and so on) needs to be applied<br>18) The 8 anodes that connect horizontally between the panels can also be soldered on though I would recommend getting two panels in place first.</p><p>I hope this is of help to others</p><p> I had 3 LEDs in the cube that worked when voltage applied but did not show blue and green while running the animation. I replaced them and everything worked perfectly.</p><p>Once I installed the STM32 ST-Link software on my PC I was able to use it to Flash upgrade the software to [AuraCube888 New Firmware (22-10-2016)] on the Small Control board. This required:</p><p>1) The ST-Link to be plugged into my PC<br>2) The four cable connector (only need three of the cables) connected form the ST-Link to the Small Control Board<br>3) 5v power supply from a mini USB connector to the Small Control board. </p><p>May I suggest the addition of a motion sensor that allows the cube to turn on when someone comes within range and allows a pre-selected program to run for a defined period after motion is no longer detected. This is something I recommended to my Nixie Clock producer (PVElectronics) and works liextremely well for preserving tubes.</p>
<p>Hi, other than add many hardware to the cube, you can also try IR sensor on the power plug, so it can power many electronic when you go in to the room, and place the sensor on top of the room.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Outdoor-12M-Security-Infrared-PIR-Motion-Sensor-Detector-Wall-LED-Light-RF-140-/191540482697?var=&hash=item2c98b3d289:m:mGilUc_JV2cKuoYlr_ytdxw" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Outdoor-12M-Security-Infra...</a></p><p> Infrared PIR Motion Sensor Detector </p>
<p>Hello </p><p>It would be great if you could give more detail on how this 8x8 cube is assembled 1`you don't give enough details about placement of the RGB LEDs if you use in assemble plan C since the position of Anode changes needs better understanding of placement . 2 You don't give a spacing of the RGB LEDs in rowels &amp; columns ( what is the spacing in mm ) 3 Will there be enough wires if you use plan C to assemble this 8x8 cube ?? 4 Are there any other item that will be needed after assembly to make this Cube work ???</p><p>Please make a post of changes to help in the assembly process.</p><p>It would help in understanding be for a purchase is made </p><p>Thank you </p>
<p>Hi, thanks for the question, info are added to the instruction, not extra item if you finished the assembly, all parts come with the kit.</p>

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