Step 7: Electronic Check & Program the PIC
Check carefully for bad solder joints and parts placements errors. Before moving on further, take out your multi-tester and check the Ohm reading of the power connector and ICP connector pads. Make sure there are no shorts.
Then fire up your PC, launch Microchip IDE. If you don't have it, please download it from Microchip website. Scroll down to the bottom of the page to find the downloads. (http://www.microchip.com/stellent/idcplg?IdcService=SS_GET_PAGE&nodeId=1406&dDocName=en019469)
Here are the steps for the IDE ver.8.xx:
- Select programmer - click on "Programmer -> Select Programmer" choose your programmer here. (Note: PICKit 2 doen't support PIC24FV family)
- Select device - click on "Configure -> Select Device" and choose PIC24FV16KA302 under "Device" menu.
- Import HEX file - click on "File -> Import", and open the HEX file downloaded.
- Click on "Programmer -> Settings", and click on "Power" tab. Then turn on "Power target circuit from PICKit 3", and set the voltage to 5V. (Note: this setting may not be available with some programmers. If that's the case, connect power source to the Aurora.)
- Click on "Programmer -> Reconnect". Click "OK" if you get the "Voltage Caution". You should see some messages in the "Output" window. Check connections, etc. if you get errors.
- Programm the PIC - Make sure to insert the header pins into the ICSP holes of the Aurora and hold it securely. Click on "Programmer -> Program" to start the programming. It should only take 20 seconds or so, and you will see "Programming/Verify complete" message in the "Output" window.
I used PICkit 3, but other programmers such as ICD2, ICD3 should work. (PICKit 2 doesn't work with PIC24FV16KA302)
Just use those 5 holes/pads on the PCB as though they are the female connector. Give a bit of tension sideways to make sure the electrical connection is stable.
*** Firmware update is available - download at http://www.theledart.com/blog/archives/1012 ***
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Just completed it and programmed it, but it just do red and purple, what could be wrong? mostly red...
Also check to see the Q1G (transistor in the center). It's easy to have loose connection on the transistor leads. You can apply a small amount of flux on the leads and give a little heat from a soldering iron.
Lastly, you should check the soldering of the PIC. Pin #21 drives the green channel, so pay extra attention to this pin. Again you can apply flux, and give a little heat on the lead to make sure there's a good bond.
Hope you found the problem.
Aki
and whats the diameter of the pcb?
Note that the placement of the LED will be a bit off if you do this...
The diameter of the PCB is 50mm.
Aki
What sort of things you want to control from Arduino?
Aki
You can still use this pin to receive data using async serial.
As for replacing the PIC with Arduino, I guess that's possible, but not an easy task. PIC24F used here is a bit more capable than Arduino...
Hope this makes sense...
Aki
I am trying out the Aurora bar code you uploaded...FUN STUFF!