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Step 2Parts Continued...
This step contains additional notes about the parts and supplies listed in step 1. If you read this and still do not understand something about the parts required please let me know.
1) A bicycle with flat or semi-flat handlebars will make following my instructions easier but flat bars are not required.
2) The reed switch is the hardest part to source locally. I used Mouser part# 816-RI-01CAA but any normally open reed switch should work. I suggest buying multiple switches because they break easily. There are millions of other fun projects you can make with the leftovers. This is one item where buying local may not your best option. The local electronics place where I live wanted about $8.50 per switch; I got 10 of them shipped to my door from Mouser for $12.
3) For LED's I used some generic 5mm diffused yellows from a Radio Shack LED multi-pack. Any LED's will work, although some colors may not be street legal in all areas. Blue and white LED's also have higher voltage requirements that must be taken into account if you choose to use them.
4) I used [http://www.instructables.com/id/12-Volt-Battery-Hack!-You_ll-be-Surprised.../ Kipkay's 12V Battery Hack] to get some cheap button cell batteries. For standard LED's you need to provide at least 3V so any two 1.5V batteries run in series will work.
5) To connect the components I used some old speaker wire I had laying around the house. Any 14 to 24 gauge multi-strand wire will work.
6) I found a 4 pack of neodymium disc magnets in the craft section at Wal-Mart. I also found a nice selection of earth magnets at Northern Tool. If all else fails, the internet is full of websites selling this type of magnets. You can try different sizes and shapes but the magnets I used are disc shaped, about 1/2 inch in diameter and less than 1/8 inch thick.
7) The washer is used to secure the magnet to the glove. Make sure the washer you choose is ferrous (attracted to magnets) and in this case smaller and flatter is better.
8) A piece of sponge is used to hold the delicate glass reed switch in position and prevent damage from the vibrations inside the handlebars.
9) The resistor value will be determined by what batteries and LED's you use. I recommend the calculator at http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz to determine resistor values for your specific application. If you are unsure about using the calculator in the link, a 47 ohm resistor is pretty safe for most applications.
10) I use Mechanix brand gloves available at any auto parts store. I tore up a ligament in the back of my right hand in a bike crash this spring and it took months to heal. A pair of gloves would have prevented that damage. Now I wear gloves any time I am on my bike.
B) Be sure you have electrical solder and not plumbing solder. They look about the same but function very differently.
F) Drill bit size will depend on what LED's you chose. You want the LED to fit snuggly in the hole made by the bit.
The next step covers the origin of the idea and a little bit of the background on the developement process.
1) A bicycle with flat or semi-flat handlebars will make following my instructions easier but flat bars are not required.
2) The reed switch is the hardest part to source locally. I used Mouser part# 816-RI-01CAA but any normally open reed switch should work. I suggest buying multiple switches because they break easily. There are millions of other fun projects you can make with the leftovers. This is one item where buying local may not your best option. The local electronics place where I live wanted about $8.50 per switch; I got 10 of them shipped to my door from Mouser for $12.
3) For LED's I used some generic 5mm diffused yellows from a Radio Shack LED multi-pack. Any LED's will work, although some colors may not be street legal in all areas. Blue and white LED's also have higher voltage requirements that must be taken into account if you choose to use them.
4) I used [http://www.instructables.com/id/12-Volt-Battery-Hack!-You_ll-be-Surprised.../ Kipkay's 12V Battery Hack] to get some cheap button cell batteries. For standard LED's you need to provide at least 3V so any two 1.5V batteries run in series will work.
5) To connect the components I used some old speaker wire I had laying around the house. Any 14 to 24 gauge multi-strand wire will work.
6) I found a 4 pack of neodymium disc magnets in the craft section at Wal-Mart. I also found a nice selection of earth magnets at Northern Tool. If all else fails, the internet is full of websites selling this type of magnets. You can try different sizes and shapes but the magnets I used are disc shaped, about 1/2 inch in diameter and less than 1/8 inch thick.
7) The washer is used to secure the magnet to the glove. Make sure the washer you choose is ferrous (attracted to magnets) and in this case smaller and flatter is better.
8) A piece of sponge is used to hold the delicate glass reed switch in position and prevent damage from the vibrations inside the handlebars.
9) The resistor value will be determined by what batteries and LED's you use. I recommend the calculator at http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz to determine resistor values for your specific application. If you are unsure about using the calculator in the link, a 47 ohm resistor is pretty safe for most applications.
10) I use Mechanix brand gloves available at any auto parts store. I tore up a ligament in the back of my right hand in a bike crash this spring and it took months to heal. A pair of gloves would have prevented that damage. Now I wear gloves any time I am on my bike.
B) Be sure you have electrical solder and not plumbing solder. They look about the same but function very differently.
F) Drill bit size will depend on what LED's you chose. You want the LED to fit snuggly in the hole made by the bit.
The next step covers the origin of the idea and a little bit of the background on the developement process.
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