Step 4: Completion

I hope this is helpful and if you have any question let me know.

*note: 6P was tested with an oscilloscope, 1, 5, are calculations only, 7-10 are rough calculations. RPM accuracy is based on you doing your own math and the accuracy of your resistor/s

you might want to use a variable resistor to fine tune.

1/4 watt sould be fine, but use 1/2 watt resistors if you want.

Let me know what you think.
<p>Hello, iv got a question for you. I have an old 2 stroke aircraft engine that I rebuilt that has four magnets, so 4 poles=2 pulses? It is a 12v system, could a tach from a car be used without any modification? Or could I use a boat tach with the 4 cyl / 2 pulse setting? </p>
<p>i used this on a small engine application twice so far it works great and its pretty accurate.it beats buying a $150 jr dragster tach for my race mowers.when i would rather spend less than $50</p>
<p>how did you mesure how many ppr the engine puts out?</p>
<p>You could also get a rough idea on the number of ppr by hooking up an oscilloscope to your tachometer wire and doing some calculation with your estimated idle rpms. For example if you measure a 60hz freq. from the tach wire at idle and estimate that the idle rpms are 600 than it can be assumed that you have a 12 pole stator which is 6 ppr. Hope this helps.</p>
<p>i did som researching online and found out that my stator has 4 poles does that mean 2 pulses?</p><p>http://www.ebay.com/itm/stator-allumage-adaptable-50-MINARELLI-AM6-DUCATI-60-W-/121274037040</p>
<p>The one in that link states six poles. If that's the case, this would have 3 pulses per rotation. If I remember correctly you should be able to switch the tachometer to the 6 cylinder position and it should be fine without having to make any internal adjustments.</p>
<p>I would suggest trying to find a manual on your engine that informs you of the number of poles in your stator. Your ppr should be half of that.</p>
It may be possible to test this with a timing light but I would not be able to suggest a procedure.
<p>*note: 6P was tested with an oscilloscope, 1, 5, are calculations only, 7-10 are rough calculations. RPM accuracy is based on you doing your own math and the accuracy of your resistor/s ?</p><p>didnt you use a oscilloscope?</p>
<p>The oscilloscope was used to verify the correct reading on the tachometer with a know ppm. It was used to adjust a frequency generator to set a known 600 pulses a minute reference to mimic a 6ppr system at 100 rpms. The generator was hooked to the tachometer to verify its operation with a reading of 100 rpms. Another test was conducted under readings for 200 rpms A formula, that I no longer have, was then used the calculate the required resistance for other pulse systems.</p>
<p>i have the bigger sunpro tach it looks diff in side then the little one that you used so how do i know what resistor to change</p>
<p>If you pull off the cover and trace the lines coming off of the 'pulse switch' you should find that they run to separate resistors. You should just need to pick one to replace. I'm not 100% sure that the bigger sunpro would use the same resistance though.</p>
There are still a lot of older outboards out there (i have two) that use a distributor with one coil. If its a low tension that is non CD (really old) that does NOT use gap less, also known as surface gap plugs. Then you can hook up to the coil as shown in the tachs instructions. If its a CD box distributor combination (used up into the 80's) do not connect any thing to the coil. The voltage there is way high and you might ruin the tach and cause the motor to run badly. In this case you have to depend on the tach out wire that most of them have. In either case, for a four cylinder two stroke set the tach for eight since its a tach for a four stroke, and so on.
cool stuff man!
Can you show the attachment to the engine? L
The connection is usually made in the (remote) control box, there is normally a wire (usually grey) this should run from the motors rectifier through the control harness and up to the controls, it is often labeled inside the control housing. Here is how it looks on my motor
let me know if you need pictures of the actual wires and connections. Cheers, Kyle
I thought the pictures would help complete this, and (personally) I'd quite like to see your engine. L
Sorry for the late response, trying to get in as much boating as possible before it’s to cold out. Here are a few pics I took while working on the motor. In the second one you can see the rectifier in the upper right hand,(The gray circular sensor with a white inner circle)
Oh yes, nice - I see 3 carb's there also. L

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