Step 4: Polish Polycarbonate Edges

Polishing the edges serves a dual purpose. Polishing the top and side edges is aesthetically pleasing and on the other hand polishing the bottom edge will allow more light to be transmitted by the LED’s.

Sand edges. Use progressively finer grit sandpaper starting at 220 ending at around 600. For best results finish with 800 grit sandpaper. Be careful to not scuff the front or back sides of the sheet with the sandpaper and try to maintain an edge that is perpendicular to the front and back sides.

Clean edges. Gently wipe with wet towel and dry.

Heat edges until clear. Use a concentrated heat source to heat the edges of the polycarbonate to a high gloss finish. Heat sources can be heat guns, lighters, or mini blow torches. You can over do this! Take your time working slowly along the edge close enough to barely melt the sheet.


I got to hand it to you, that is an awesome third hand. a+
wow! what a wonderful creation i'll have to make one of these now haha thanxs alot
Bloody genius! I'll make one right away! :D
verry good i will make one of these when i grow up
You could also buy some LED strips from Ebay, that's a lot easier.
Fantastic presentation! This is a great example of How to do a How to. Clear pictures and great outline and descriptions :) Thanks! You made this project even easier.
I'm not that skilled with the heat source. I just used acetone (not nail polish remover) and carefully wipe down the edges over and over. They'll come clear. The best is methyl chloride, but it's very hard to find.
very nice instr..
How bright (mcd) do the LEDs need to be to make this look good? The LEDs you link to at Sparkfun are rated 2800, 6500, and 1200 mcd for the red, green, blue, respectively. Will the result be just as pleasing if using cheaper LEDs in the 600 mcd range?
Is it possible to share resistors between the LEDs? If not, why not?
It is possible and would certainly be much more efficient. I didn't optimize the circuit because I was short on time.
What program did you use to create the 3D image of the circuit board?
Autodesk Inventor 2010
good drawing, what have you studied?
 I currently study Mechanical Engineering.
Iowa state
now i understand, it's not comon to find quality in this webs
Very impressive instructable! Beautiful work. It gives me ideas as I like to make signs as well. I picked up on a very un-nerving sight, though, when I looked at picture 4 in step 3. It looks like the saw is running in this photo, and your left hand is in front of the blade! This is extremely dangerous, and should never be done in this manner. That piece should have been ripped, using a rip fence. NEVER, NEVER, NEVER place a hand ahead of a blade as you have done here. Had that piece got in a bind and kicked back, your hand would be toast...er more like ground hamburger. And plastic is a non-standard material to be cutting on a table saw. I hate it when the "worried about your welfare police" chime in like I have just done, but this picture screams at me: NO NO NO.
 Do you have a schematic, as I need to down scale the board size?  Thank you
&nbsp;Nice project!<br /> <br /> Wondering what software you used to draw out your circuits. &nbsp;Is it NI Multisim?<br />
Wow, great idea and great execution.&nbsp; Can't wait for the code, since I'm just learning about microcontrollers and it would take me awhle to do it myself. Ideas, ideas, ideas.&nbsp; Thanks for a great instructable.
&nbsp;were do you buy your plexiglass
&nbsp;I purchased a scrap piece of polycarbonate from a local plastics distributor called Country Plastics. There are are countless other places to get it though. Often stores like Lowes, Menards, or Home Depot carry some type of acrylic sheet and there is no shortage of online distributors. I suggest trying to find a local place that you can find a scrap for cheap as online and retail stores can be expensive.
&nbsp;ok because the plexiglass at my lowes charges 20 bucks for a 2 by 2 foot sheet&nbsp;
you could just use tape and a sand blaster. Good instructable!<br />
&nbsp;Great idea!
You can also engrave glass with an Epilog laser.&nbsp; I would probably use one of those rectangles of antique glass with the beveled edges for something like this.
one additional thing.&nbsp; I would probably use an antique lettering font to match the glass.
When I engrave plastic, I print out the pattern and place it under the plastic.&nbsp; Then I go at it with a dremel and fine tip sanding/grinding bit.<br />
when i engrave glass i used a sandblaster<br /> \
This is neat, <br /> <br /> Now, I have an idea.. I want the pizza guy to find my house in the dark without turning on my light... what if we took this idea, put it to a small solar panel, with a small battery system, and added house numbers instead of a name?<br /> This way with the solar panel, small rechargeable battery system, and a light sensor, it should charge during the day, and light up at night. showing the house number in place of the name.... <br /> <br /> I like your idea... thanks for giving me mine...lol
I've seen commercial products almost exactly like this.&nbsp; So yeah, your idea should work fine.<br />
&nbsp;Very cool. Great project, great ible, just great.
haha that circuit is wayyyy more expensive and complex then it needs to be:)
&nbsp;Yup [solders switch, led's and batteries together]<br /> <br /> DONE!<br /> <br /> I guess it's kinda cool to do this with a push button but the micro controller is always on so that justs sucks your battery life.<br />
There HAS&nbsp;to be something more to the uC part, doesn't there?<br /> &nbsp; Like chasing lights, multi-color fading, timer-to-off, or something? ANYTHING?<br /> &nbsp; Since the led circuit is already set for 5Volt...then all you really need to do for &quot;on/off&quot; is to feed it power from a usb port, or cell phone wallwart charger, or as ogama8 says, batteries.<br /> <br /> We'd like to hear from <a href="../../../member/klbrockmann/" rel="nofollow" style="margin: 0.0px;" title="view klbrockmann's profile">klbrockmann</a> on this, before we dismiss it as a case of wildly over-engineered technobabble.<br />
I'll add the exact details of my microcontroller schematics and code soon. Right now I have the uC setup to send each color loop (red, green, blue) a unique square wave pulse with a&nbsp;predefined&nbsp;duty cycle and period, thereby mixing the different colors to make new color combinations (white, purple, yellow, etc.) The push button is my method of scrolling through the different colors which have to be defined in the program code.<br /> <br /> I think my biggest issue with this project right now is power consumption. Ideally, I would like power to be sourced from batteries or possibly USB. Right now the circuit running with all colors on (white) draws a little over 1A at 5VDC. 1A rules out USB and AA batteries won't last more than 1.5 hours. I haven't figured out the best way to cut down yet, but I'm working on it.<br />
I know the micro adds complexity and consumes power but it does give you the ability to adjust the color to just about anything you can think of.
&nbsp;Agreed. I'll call this one a prototype. I had a dead line to meet for this project so&nbsp;unfortunately&nbsp;I didn't have the time to really nail down the best solution. I'm working on making it better. I would really like to make battery power a reasonable option.
tsss. cnc, you're such a show-off :P<br />
That looks great!&nbsp; Do you have any information on programming the microcontroller?<br />
&nbsp;I'll have more on that soon.
Impressive job on the third hand tool.
Thanks! It took less than 30min to make and has been one of the most useful tools I have. I got the idea from this Instructable: <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Third-Hand-A-multi-use-helping-hand-for-electro/" rel="nofollow">Third Hand++</a>
wow nice job with the wood !! well done really nice project but it requires some tools, which are hard to find , so that it can be done correctly <br /> <br />

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